Wheeliebars and clutch management

[n2o]

Need some new wheeliebars for next season, anyone with some recomondations. I am thinking double adjustable..

I am also interested in some clutch management systems...anyone with some recomondations? "race-proven, and bolt on"

Thanks
Roar

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/v/I1fax6ZY05E" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/v/I1fax6ZY05E</a>

[richie]

Need some new wheeliebars for next season, anyone with some recomondations. I am thinking double adjustable..

I am also interested in some clutch management systems...anyone with some recomondations? "race-proven, and bolt on"

Thanks
Roar

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/v/I1fax6ZY05E" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/v/I1fax6ZY05E</a>

Roar,when I get time this week coming I will mail you the details on what most are doing for clutch management,

then you wont need the sissy sticks

cheers richie,uk

[carlnolen]

This is the system I use:



It uses co2 and works very well. I can control the speed in which the pedal releases. I can make a stage 2 plate hit like a stage 1. The system only works on launch. By controling the clutch pedal release speed, I can control how hard the clutch engagement will hit my type 1 3.88 r&p. I get 150 or so runs on a 3.88 at 1.42 60 ft. It is a complete bolt on with some custom modification to fit the particular application/car. The cylinders do not get in the way of my feet. My car is a 63 pan car with stock seat height. With Ghia's or tube cars where the seat is on or near the floor, you can mount the cylinders behind the pedals. Works very good. Saves r&p's and makes the clutch hit very soft. I've been using this system for 10 years. The cylinder on the brake pedal just simply acts as a line lock. Simple to use.

Carl

[n2o]

Need some new wheeliebars for next season, anyone with some recomondations. I am thinking double adjustable..

I am also interested in some clutch management systems...anyone with some recomondations? "race-proven, and bolt on"

Thanks
Roar

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/v/I1fax6ZY05E" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/v/I1fax6ZY05E</a>

Roar,when I get time this week coming I will mail you the details on what most are doing for clutch management,

then you wont need the sissy sticks

cheers richie,uk

Thanks Richie, then I save the additional weight of the bars....not, I am to old and scared to drive like you

Great, Looking forward to recieving some info on the management.

[Ragtop]

Need some new wheeliebars for next season, anyone with some recomondations. I am thinking double adjustable..

I am also interested in some clutch management systems...anyone with some recomondations? "race-proven, and bolt on"

Thanks
Roar

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/v/I1fax6ZY05E" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/v/I1fax6ZY05E</a>

Roar,when I get time this week coming I will mail you the details on what most are doing for clutch management,

then you wont need the sissy sticks

cheers richie,uk

Thanks Richie, then I save the additional weight of the bars....not, I am to old and scared to drive like you

Great, Looking forward to recieving some info on the management.

Hi Roar!

On the Notch I have RLRs wheeliebars. Fully adjustable and light (CrMo). Haven´t really used them yet but the engine gave some nice power on the dyno yesterday so... hehe

Rgds

 Johan

[Jon]

This is the system I use:



It uses co2 and works very well.

Hi Carl,
Could the switch/valve be adapted to use with oil? Only active with shifter in first?

[carlnolen]

The valve in the pic is for air only. That is a three port valve, in,out, and exhaust. By controlling the exhaust orifice size, you control the exhaust air speed, thus, controlling pedal release speed. You can use this system on a hydraulic pedal setup. My son's drag buggy has hydraulic pedals and the system worked just fine. I have seen just one type of eletric hydraulic pedal control. A simple, crude way of just using a line lock valve that is not adjustable. Not sure if a line lock valve is the best type of valve for this but some racers use it. I have also seen a hydraulic valve made by Tilton that works very well as an anti-shocker. It's an inline valve with adjustable oriface to control release speed. It's non-eletric and would work in all gears. What Richie is referring to is the hydraulic valve setup several racers on the West coast of the USA use. I have not seen this system but is suppose to operate only in first with a bypass system.

On the co2 system, I have seen the clutch arm cylinder in several locations, where mine is, in the tunnel, and on the other side of the tunnel (by extending clutch arm shaft). It is a very simple system as it uses a cylinder for the clutch arm, air solenoid, air tank with regular. It does only work in first and once the system has released, there is not resistance in the cylinder at all. This system itself doesn't affect RT at all. This system was first designed to use with a delay box. But, found out later that you could control pedal release speed to act as an anti-shocker on the trans. I have used this system on pro tree and works just fine off a button. A release system needs to be adjustable to set the proper release speed for the clutch setup. Make the pedal release too slow, you'll glaze the clutch up. Too fast, the clutch hits to suddenly. You have to find the sweet spot for your car. I use a stage 2 with Kennedy four puck disc. If I let the clutch out with my foot, the clutch hits real hard and will bog the motor. With clutch release, smooth as silk. I have had the clutch too slow. Glaze the disc within 10 runs and slips. Deglaze clutch and speed pedal up a little, no problem with glazing.

Carl

[Jesse Wens]

so you pressurize the cilinder to hold the clutch and push a button to release in first? foot next too the pedal?

[carlnolen]

so you pressurize the cilinder to hold the clutch and push a button to release in first? foot next too the pedal?

In the co2 system, you have co2 cylinder connected directly to the clutch pedal (through a solenoid)  to control the release speed. Push in the clutch, activate a air soleniod (with a button on the steering wheel) to fill the air cylinder contected to the clutch pedal. This actually holds the pedal down by itself and you can take your foot off the pedal as it is on the floor. Release a button on the steering wheel that controls power to the air soleniod, air is exhausted from the air cylinder holding the clutch pedal down through an exhaust port on the soleniod. Clutch pedal moves and engages clutch. By contolling the oriface size on the exhaust port of the soleniod, you control the speed of the air moving thus controlling clutch pedal release speed. You can make the pedal speed slow or fast depending on pressure plate used. Stage 1 1700 plate, you can use a fast release speed. Use a stage 2 2100 pressure plate, you slow the pedal speed a little to contol the hit of a larger pressure plate. You electrically control when the clutch is operated as in a trans brake on an automatic trans.

The whole point here is to make the pressure plate engagment as smooth as possible, especially when using big pressure plates as not to shock the tranny breaking it. I did not design this system or take credit for it. This method has been around here since the early 90's.

Clutches in general seems to be a real big problem with the super high horsepower vw motors. Big boost turbo cars seem to be having the most problems with clutches. If you get a clutch to slip on launch (like a black magic type disc), you may have to have a big pressure plate to hold it and not drive through the clutch as the big boost comes on. Some racers use dual disc clutches and can hit pretty hard on launch. Engage a big clutch setup too quickly, you'll break axles or the gearbox.There has been a lot of development with clutch management the last few years. You are bascially controlling how fast the throwout bearing moves. I'm not near this level of power. I make around 310hp on nitrous and I time it to come on after launch. So, I'm only launching on 210 and in 20 feet, I have 310hp for 1.40 60ft. Between controlling my clutch release speed and timing the nitrous, my type 1 gear box is a happy camper.

Carl

[mr horsepower]

Nice but how much pressure is there in the bottle and how many times can you use it?

gr henri

[carlnolen]

Nice but how much pressure is there in the bottle and how many times can you use it?

gr henri

I use the small 10 oz bottle size clamped to the roll bar. The bottle has a regulator with two gauges, one for bottle psi and the other for regulated psi. Bottle pressure is around 1000 psi with regulated down to 110 psi. I can run on one bottle all year, around 60-70 runs. I carry a spare in case the bottle gets low. The bottle psi will drop to 500 psi or so when it gets low. c02 gas, very easy to refill.