Bug-In 35 2010

[Rick Meredith]

  ..............

ps , i will not post pictures of the restrooms   

That seems to indicate that you have pics of the restrooms?

ROFL! He's got ya there Fabs!

[low oval]

the men's restroom at the swallows in is very unique.

[speedwell]

ok ok pictures of the restrooms tomorrow ; but keep the young eyes  far away the screen

[Dan Mazur]

ok ok pictures of the restrooms tomorrow ; but keep the young eyes  far away the screen

What about all the rest of the pictures from your trip???

[Worm]

Yeah Fabs, forget pics of restroom walls, post up shots of the Bug In weekend! 

...........truth is I still would like to see pics from the restroom wall........HA  Photshop is in order tho.

I KNOW you took 1000's of pictures.  So start a new thread, we are all waiting (impatiently)

[speedwell]

Yeah Fabs, forget pics of restroom walls, post up shots of the Bug In weekend! 

...........truth is I still would like to see pics from the restroom wall........HA  Photshop is in order tho.

I KNOW you took 1000's of pictures.  So start a new thread, we are all waiting (impatiently)

check here

this the first topic of my week in socal the others will follow soon , just let me the time to do my pictures
thx all for your understanding

fabs

[ian c]

To most people, this is most likely not a big deal. To a long time fanatic like me... quite the opposite. I'll leave it there. Draw your own conclusions.

is that a speck of dust on the plate lamp ??

[ian c]

o0h no , sorry ....
its a bit of crap on my computer screen .

great socks by-the-way mark .

[Rennsurfer]

To most people, this is most likely not a big deal. To a long time fanatic like me... quite the opposite. I'll leave it there. Draw your own conclusions.

is that a speck of dust on the plate lamp ??

On THAT car? Hardly. But you're rather close to the subject matter at hand, as it turns out.

[j-dub]

Not really sure where to put this but I just had to share, the 2276 runs. Cam break in tomorrow.

Jeremy

Rest In Peace 1915
1997-2010
It dropped a valve on the way to Bug-In last Saturday driving from Phoenix to Fontana.



Already started on the replacement, a 2276.

[Zach Gomulka]

Yeah buddy!! I got your text last night but I was too tired to respond Wish I could be there to help out!
If you're feeling really ambitious, you could try it out with Wolfsburg Registry this Saturday on their annual trip up to Prescott to beat the heat. I've still got that tow money for you, and a gift AssHull left you at mi casa Let me know!

[Donny B.]

If you're feeling really ambitious, you could try it out with Wolfsburg Registry this Saturday on their annual trip up to Prescott to beat the heat.

If you decide you want to tag along with us we will be meeting at the Home Depot at I-17 and Thunderbird Rd. at 8:00 and heading out around 8:30. Come along and have a good time.

[j-dub]

Thanks for the offer guys but i am not ready for a long distance cruise yet.

I got the engine in and still had the mindset that the engine will need to come out again, likely a result of taking it in and out 5 times in one day for clearanceing.  I installed just enough stuff to get the engine to run. I broke the cam in without a breather system installed, generator stand open and fuel pump hole open. It sprayed out enough oil vapors to be annoying and get things coated a bit.

I had to remove the 34 vents from the 45 dellortos and install the 38 vents. I had a some carb cleaner out while doing that job so I thought I will clean up the oil spray from the break in. Well carb spray on freshly repainted tins means bubbled and crackled paint, in some areas the paint even re-flowed. That was a heart breaker. One goof led to another goof, I won't do that again.

I did get it driving, had a bit of a tough time getting a fair idle. The tee I installed so I can mount an oil pressure gauge at the oil pressure sender port leaked. The OG screw terminal pressure sender trips the idiot light at 10 lbs. I got the fittings sorted out now and went with the old spade terminal oil pressure idiot light sender. I originally had the SVDA distributor in, I now have the 010 just to simplify things while I am working out the tuning issues.

It is fast, has lots of grunt and runs very smooth especially for ballpark jetting. I drove it three evenings now for 20 to 30 minutes each. While the engine was out I replaced the wire that lights the license plate light but never secured it very well. Last night I was accelerating up and onramp and that wire had got wrapped up in the generator belt, lost the belt. Had to drive slowly to a place where I could let it cool off. Luckily I was near my neighborhood so I limped it home after 20 minute rest.

One issue I currently have is excessive oil pressure. I am using Brad Penn break in oil, straight 30w. At idle I have about 12 psi, at 2k I have about 40 psi, 3k over 50 psi.

I want to go to a thinner Brad Penn oil but the thinnest Brad Penn makes in 0w30. I bought some 5w-20 valvoline today and am going to add one of the ZDDP additives to it.

I currently have some NGK 7 heat range plugs in there that I had around. I am going to try some 6s next. Stock is 5, the plug gets cooler as the numbers get bigger. I am also going to try the plug gap stock as opposed to opening it up due the CDI.

I have been adjusting the valves at a tight zero, I am going to try a loose zero, or maybe even 0.002 to see if that has any effect on my idle quality.

It does seem to get faster each time I drive it, once I get the idle issues sorted I am going to hook up the LM-1 and start down that road.

I can feel the shifter moving around on hard starts or when I let off the throttle, I need to add the fore/aft snubbers and see if that issues is solved.

It needs an alignment as well, I raised the car up a bit and the new location of the trans means the rear toe is out.

 Can anybody recommend a 0w20 or 5w20 that had the proper amount of Zinc and Phosphorous?

[Diederick/DVK]

are you running straight 30SAE break-in oil?

[j-dub]

are you running straight 30SAE break-in oil?

Yes, straight 30 Brad Penn break in oil.
http://www.bradpennracing.com/Products/High-Performance/Break-In-Oil.aspx

I updated my progress a bit in my last post.

[John Rayburn]

Thanks for the offer guys but i am not ready for a long distance cruise yet.

I got the engine in and still had the mindset that the engine will need to come out again, likely a result of taking it in and out 5 times in one day for clearanceing.  I installed just enough stuff to get the engine to run. I broke the cam in without a breather system installed, generator stand open and fuel pump hole open. It sprayed out enough oil vapors to be annoying and get things coated a bit.

I had to remove the 34 vents from the 45 dellortos and install the 38 vents. I had a some carb cleaner out while doing that job so I thought I will clean up the oil spray from the break in. Well carb spray on freshly repainted tins means bubbled and crackled paint, in some areas the paint even re-flowed. That was a heart breaker. One goof led to another goof, I won't do that again.

I did get it driving, had a bit of a tough time getting a fair idle. The tee I installed so I can mount an oil pressure gauge at the oil pressure sender port leaked. The OG screw terminal pressure sender trips the idiot light at 10 lbs. I got the fittings sorted out now and went with the old spade terminal oil pressure idiot light sender. I originally had the SVDA distributor in, I now have the 010 just to simplify things while I am working out the tuning issues.

It is fast, has lots of grunt and runs very smooth especially for ballpark jetting. I drove it three evenings now for 20 to 30 minutes each. While the engine was out I replaced the wire that lights the license plate light but never secured it very well. Last night I was accelerating up and onramp and that wire had got wrapped up in the generator belt, lost the belt. Had to drive slowly to a place where I could let it cool off. Luckily I was near my neighborhood so I limped it home after 20 minute rest.

One issue I currently have is excessive oil pressure. I am using Brad Penn break in oil, straight 30w. At idle I have about 12 psi, at 2k I have about 40 psi, 3k over 50 psi.

I want to go to a thinner Brad Penn oil but the thinnest Brad Penn makes in 0w30. I bought some 5w-20 valvoline today and am going to add one of the ZDDP additives to it.

I currently have some NGK 7 heat range plugs in there that I had around. I am going to try some 6s next. Stock is 5, the plug gets cooler as the numbers get bigger. I am also going to try the plug gap stock as opposed to opening it up due the CDI.

I have been adjusting the valves at a tight zero, I am going to try a loose zero, or maybe even 0.002 to see if that has any effect on my idle quality.

It does seem to get faster each time I drive it, once I get the idle issues sorted I am going to hook up the LM-1 and start down that road.

I can feel the shifter moving around on hard starts or when I let off the throttle, I need to add the fore/aft snubbers and see if that issues is solved.

It needs an alignment as well, I raised the car up a bit and the new location of the trans means the rear toe is out.

 Can anybody recommend a 0w20 or 5w20 that had the proper amount of Zinc and Phosphorous?

                               Joe Gibbs XP-1 is a 5- 20. You'll be in great hands with it. Don't go the zinc additive route with an SM oil. You're shooting yourself in the foot. Detergents are made up of polar molecules , and are attracted to the engine surfaces. Zinc/ phosphorus are also polar molecules, which is why the detergent present won't let the zddp stick to the surfaces. This is also why the break in oils are basically non detergent. The high zinc oils are using non polar additives to keep from stripping the zinc from the vital surfaces. This is also one of the reasons why racing oils need to be changed more often.

[j-dub]

                       Joe Gibbs XP-1 is a 5- 20. You'll be in great hands with it. Don't go the zinc additive route with an SM oil. You're shooting yourself in the foot. Detergents are made up of polar molecules , and are attracted to the engine surfaces. Zinc/ phosphorus are also polar molecules, which is why the detergent present won't let the zddp stick to the surfaces. This is also why the break in oils are basically non detergent. The high zinc oils are using non polar additives to keep from stripping the zinc from the vital surfaces. This is also one of the reasons why racing oils need to be changed more often.

Thanks John,
That is good information. I did not realize how the SM oil will interact with the Zinc/phosphorus additive.