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Author Topic: Get 'R Done  (Read 68468 times)
Peter
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« Reply #90 on: April 21, 2011, 19:40:50 pm »

Nice work Harry!
Question: do you have to notch the both sides of the rods, or just one side?
stupid question maybe Smiley

cheers, Peter
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Harry/FDK
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« Reply #91 on: April 21, 2011, 20:11:51 pm »

Hi Peter, i'm just the one with stupid questions ! You have to do both sides, BUT i also vieuwed a link on the Lounge were a californian porsche machine shop did one notch on both sides out of the middle.
Stupid Question back: How do i determine the lenght of my pushrods when i go to Scat 1:4 rockers. Normally when i set up valve geometry i set up the valve adjusting screw online with the valve-stem  (@ half lift) and do my precision work from there. But with 1:4 this is a new territory for me. (Adjusting screw on the pushrod side...).

Best Regards,
Harry
« Last Edit: April 22, 2011, 07:49:23 am by Harry » Logged

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Peter
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« Reply #92 on: April 21, 2011, 20:23:44 pm »

Hey Harry,
i bolted on the rockers without shims first...
i looked at half lift if the adjuster is inline with the pushrod....
after a few turns of the motor i could see a wear pattern on the lash cap...
you should check that the center of the wear pattern is also in the center of the lash cap..
Well... thats how i did it  Wink
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Peter
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« Reply #93 on: April 21, 2011, 20:28:32 pm »

about the adjuster:
the adjuster screws have an oiling hole that needs to correspond to a hole in the rockers,
so if you screw the adjuster in too much, or not enough, the rocker shafts get no oil, i put the adjuster in the middle
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Harry/FDK
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« Reply #94 on: April 22, 2011, 20:55:43 pm »

Peter, you might want to check this out.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=7wuNuuEoN7Y#t=13s
« Last Edit: April 22, 2011, 20:58:03 pm by Harry » Logged

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Nico86
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Turnip engine.


« Reply #95 on: April 22, 2011, 21:14:53 pm »

Harry, when notching the rods I guess you can use something like a Dremel. But for main and cam bearings did you do it with a "hand" file?
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Harry/FDK
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« Reply #96 on: April 22, 2011, 21:39:23 pm »

The rods, i started with a Dremel, then filed them by hand, then polished, again with the Dremel tool. The bearings were done very carefully with the Dremel first, then finished with the handfile and a Scotch pad.
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Nico86
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Turnip engine.


« Reply #97 on: April 22, 2011, 21:55:20 pm »

Ok I see  Wink I think I will give it a try on my bearings. Maybe on the rods but I'm not sure (they are not claiming for such high intensive use : balanced/clearanced Rimco 311B rods, and I'd have to have them balanced end-to-end again).
« Last Edit: April 22, 2011, 22:04:53 pm by Nico86 » Logged

Harry/FDK
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« Reply #98 on: April 23, 2011, 21:16:20 pm »

Hi Nico, you might check out this link again. Easy to do by yourself...http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=7wuNuuEoN7Y#t=13s
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Nico86
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Turnip engine.


« Reply #99 on: April 23, 2011, 21:56:24 pm »

Thanks for the link Harry. I suppose that notching the rods on the center of the beam and both sides (or the way it's done in the video) will not affect the balancing that much.
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Harry/FDK
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« Reply #100 on: May 06, 2011, 14:43:16 pm »

Just to compare to the MSD distr. i ordered one of these to hook up to my (excellent) Crane box. Experiences anyone ?
Jakob (GetBackOnTrack) will almost have my balancing-stuff done.
« Last Edit: May 06, 2011, 17:39:34 pm by Harry/FDK » Logged

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Harry/FDK
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« Reply #101 on: May 18, 2011, 18:01:18 pm »

CB Crank is 0.07 mm out on the flywheel side. After machining for 8 dowels and lightening the german flywheel, it is still flexing on the balancer... Jakob has the crank sorted out, he's machining the flywheel now.

« Last Edit: May 19, 2011, 07:38:35 am by Harry/FDK » Logged

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Harry/FDK
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« Reply #102 on: July 06, 2011, 16:07:39 pm »

Yes.
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FDK/mrpedrini
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WWW
« Reply #103 on: July 06, 2011, 16:37:07 pm »

Yes.

P.O.R.N!!! Now get the jazz and get it to live!!!

Good luck my friend....
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Paulus
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« Reply #104 on: July 06, 2011, 18:37:15 pm »

Nice Harry!...... your flywheel looks really light  Grin
Hope you get it running soon.

Greets, Paul
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Less is More !
Nico86
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Turnip engine.


« Reply #105 on: July 06, 2011, 19:59:46 pm »

Cool Harry. Cool
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Harry/FDK
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« Reply #106 on: July 09, 2011, 19:12:46 pm »

Cool Blog Nico !!! Love the rabbit with BRM's ! And Mr.Pedrini is there as well (Decklid)! So are the Music Breaks !
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Nico86
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Turnip engine.


« Reply #107 on: July 09, 2011, 19:55:37 pm »

Thanks Harry  Wink
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Nico86
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Turnip engine.


« Reply #108 on: September 12, 2011, 22:07:02 pm »

Any news about your engine?  Wink
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Dokke/DFL
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« Reply #109 on: September 13, 2011, 10:47:03 am »

Yeah ...is it done yet bro ?
Tell me ...
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Harry/FDK
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Every Rule Was Made To Break, Even Callook...


« Reply #110 on: September 18, 2011, 18:04:42 pm »

It's not done at all. There are family issues i have to deal with, Mom passed away last April, and Dad is not doing well. Plus, Grace and me took a small vacation as well. I needed some time to reset my horizon and get some motivation. First get a different job and then we'll see. For sure the engine will be a winter project. (THIS winter).  Wink
« Last Edit: September 22, 2011, 16:51:14 pm by Harry/FDK » Logged

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Harry/FDK
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« Reply #111 on: December 04, 2011, 19:44:42 pm »

Well it's been a long time, and a lot of things have happened, but i'm starting again. Last saturday i checked the Wiseco's and Mahle cylinders again with my old friend Jan Smit (www.jspp.nl/). Jan does street to top-fuel bikes all his life. We re-honed/measured the cylinders one more time, weighted and measured the pistons, and his judgement on the Wiseco's"/Mahle was "all perfect". He imported Wiseco for years to Europe when nobody knew about them. You can also have up to 4 (!!) oversizes. My set is now within a 10th of a gramm. Further machining will just fuck things up.
So tonight measuring again on the case etc. Sorry no pics yet.

Harry

Ps, i got my babies directly from Revmaster.
« Last Edit: December 04, 2011, 20:10:48 pm by Harry/FDK » Logged

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Harry/FDK
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« Reply #112 on: December 06, 2011, 21:21:20 pm »

An evening with Permatex, Thinner and The Torquewrench.
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Harry/FDK
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« Reply #113 on: December 06, 2011, 21:38:33 pm »

No 0-ringed pumps for me, just a little Permatex on the inside of the case/oilpump bore. Let it dry, and it "rolls" up as a perfect seal.
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Harry/FDK
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« Reply #114 on: December 06, 2011, 21:38:34 pm »

.
« Last Edit: December 06, 2011, 21:41:14 pm by Harry/FDK » Logged

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Harry/FDK
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« Reply #115 on: December 06, 2011, 21:38:34 pm »

Just for the heck of it, I always line up the markings of the oilpumpgears together up front. Permatex Aviation sealant is great for the pump gaskets. You can thin it with some thinner between you fingers and soak the gasket with it.
« Last Edit: December 07, 2011, 13:27:53 pm by Harry/FDK » Logged

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Eddie DVK
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« Reply #116 on: December 06, 2011, 22:02:52 pm »

Looks cool and clean Harry,
I am glad you get some work done.

Regards Edgar
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Regards Edgar

" Type 4, it is a completely different engine. You have to drive one to understand! "
Harry/FDK
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« Reply #117 on: December 06, 2011, 22:13:54 pm »

Thanks Edgar ! I will let my baby sleep for now and re-torque her tomorrow. But i got my new job, feeling confident, so i'm diving into the shop again and check the cylinders to case clearence, can't sleep anyway.
« Last Edit: December 06, 2011, 22:23:02 pm by Harry/FDK » Logged

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tikimadness
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« Reply #118 on: December 06, 2011, 22:55:11 pm »

Cool dude. Would be nice to see you drive that engine this summer.

Michael
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Harry/FDK
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« Reply #119 on: December 06, 2011, 23:04:51 pm »

Cool dude. Would be nice to see you drive that engine this summer.

Michael

Thanks Michael, i need that , my first IDA engine.. And yes, my wreck has to terrorize the streets again.

Harry
« Last Edit: December 06, 2011, 23:17:11 pm by Harry/FDK » Logged

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