The Ragtop Express

[tpb_karl]

So I’ve started tearing down the engine. The slotted screws for the cooling tins were not very fun to remove...







Good thing I split the case, because I found this little gem along with some other small remains from the guide for the fuel pump...


Before tearing the engine down, I measured the end play, which came out to 0.14 mm, and the main bearing saddles don’t look disastrous. But you can feel a ridge with your fingernail. Still, this engine will be reassembled with the same internals it was taken apart with. The plan is for a bigger engine in a couple of years.



Then I spent a day at a friends garage and got to borrow a hot water pressure washer, small parts washer, and the vapor blasting cabinet.



The vapor blasting cabinet works wonders. Here’s the cam plug as an example.



The heads also got a once-over.



Even the valves!



I lapped the valves to the seats before reassembling everything. The valve guides were really nice on the intake side, and a bit loose on the exhaust side, but not catastrophic.





Quite a difference!



I also blasted the pistons and all the rocker components.



Back in the garage, I was ready to assemble a short block.


…almost, anyway. I thought I could drop in the crankshaft with the distributor shaft in place—immensely difficult. If the distributor shaft has to come out, the bakelite guide for the fuel pump has to come out too. Yeah… you probably know how that usually goes...


Eventually, it was out, the case halves cleaned again, and all parts in place without issues.



I also honed the cylinders.


Then the fuel pump and carburetor got a bath in the ultrasonic cleaner and new gasket kits.





The distributor got new contact points and a light cleaning.





A pair of old valve covers from “the stash” got a coat of black paint.



This engine is by no means rebuilt—just cleaned and reassembled with fresh gaskets. It’ll live, as long as it lives. I had previously planned a 130–150 hp engine build, but I’ll build a “Stage 1 engine” first in a couple of years which can go in my bus when this one is taken apart and turned into a proper “Callooker.” I’ve got a case to send off for line-boring and have started collecting parts and sketching a build plan. Dual relief case, deep-stud, large oil pickup, and M8 case savers.


I also got a set of super-Chinese IDF 40 carburetors that will go on that engine.

[Steve67]

paint blending looks great on the finished body! What product do you use for rust removal on the paint?
Looks like you're on the home straight

[tpb_karl]

paint blending looks great on the finished body! What product do you use for rust removal on the paint?
Looks like you're on the home straight

Thank you! It is way worse in real life  I will probably mend the doors in the future and paint the sides up to the chrome trim.

The product i used is called 'Fallout'. It is sold by a Swedish company called Arcticlean.

[56BLITZ]

Enjoyed watching your videos! Was it more work making them or more work repairing your Beetle?
Nice job... thank you!

[tpb_karl]

Enjoyed watching your videos! Was it more work making them or more work repairing your Beetle?
Nice job... thank you!

Thank you! I'm glad you enjoy them!
The editing sure make the hours go by like crazy 
But it is nothing compared to the hours spent in the garage 

[tpb_karl]

So back in the garage after a week on vacation. Of course, I managed to do a little shopping at Custom & Speedparts in Hyllinge! Always a pleasure to visit that store!
An 8-dowel 69mm crankshaft ala CB-performance. Perfect for the upcoming "mouse-motor" 36mm, big washer chromoly gland nut, Schadek 26mm oil pump plugged for full-flow, and a few other bits and pieces.


Some pictures from the store:




Back home, the first thing on the list was to check the new piston rings, file the ones that needed it, and lap the piston against its respective sealing surface in the heads.



Once that was done, all pistons were mounted in the cylinders, ready to drop into the case.



During the week, I read "How to rebuild your aircooled VW engine", where it mentioned that exhaust valves commonly drop a valve head from the stem when worn. Since new valves were so cheap, I replaced all the exhaust valves.


With that done, it was just a matter of putting together a longblock.



I can't recommend the black valve cover bails. They were almost a centimeter too short for the valve cover. So I had to use the shabby originals. I’ve used chrome bails before and they’ve worked just fine.



Both sides done and a new oil cooler in place.


New gasket in the oil filler cap…



It’s starting to look more and more like an engine!


But here I ran into trouble…



Some aluminum hose from a local hardware store solved it.




Once on the ground, the endplay was set to about 0.14 mm (same shims as before), and a new rear main seal was installed.



New clutch disc since the old one was completely worn out. The engine was filled with oil and was now ready to be mounted in the car!



But before that, both heater cables were replaced since they had been cut… (One end of the cable is slightly longer than the other. That one goes on the car’s left side.)



Some other preparations before the engine goes in. New seals in the engine bay.


Fuel hose with aluminum filter holder.


A REALLY serious repair of one of the heater boxes with chemical metal… Budget version, deluxe...
With that, it was time to drop in the engine!


It went in so easily! Very easy when you’re two people and use a motorcycle jack. After that, wires, fuel hoses, and heater connections were hooked up.



I also finally got to install the stainless steel tailpipes. Mmm shiny…


To start the engine, we need fuel. So the fuel tank came out and got scrubbed underneath. Also blew out the worst of the dirt.



Quickly cleaned up under the trunk and installed the tank with a new rubber hose underneath. Also a new gas cap and a new gasket under the fuel sender.



The next step is power to run the starter motor so I can test start the car. The battery terminal looked like it had seen better days, to say the least…


With new cables and terminals to the battery, it was just a matter of turning the key. I removed all fuses except those for the coil and starter motor since the fenders aren’t mounted and the wires are hanging loose.



Unfortunately, no start! Even though the battery measured 6V, the voltage drop was too great to turn the starter. The battery is junk and a new one is ordered… (Yes, I WILL convert to 12V..)
A local club member came by with a spare starter motor which sounded much better than the old unit… So that went in! He also helped me do a rough wheel alignment on the front end.


Oh, how close I was to taking a test drive today! But next weekend I’ll probably be able to take a proper test drive, and then it’s getting close to inspection if everything goes as planned.