asking all the stupid questions regarding building engines...

[richie]

hey, i still am on a diet of aluminium and magnesium these days. i start to sparkle a little, but that is OK.

anyway i start to get that thing fitted and all the excess material removed. it has to fit and come out OK. i will see if this really works if i have done both halves and bolted them together and put some pistons and cylinders on that thing.
all went well, except one thing, when i testrotate the crank the counterweight right after the number one rod (starting from the flywheelside) hits the case on the top of the stud. i can't explain, but i have included a pic...  don't look where my finger is pointing, it is the circle-like thing that matters.
it only happens when the crank is pushed back towards the pulley side, if it is pushed towards the flywheelside all is fine and rotates nicely. but i need to get that crank centered, is that what the shims do that i have to put behind the flywheel? endplayshims i think. i also still need to get the special bearing for that side, maybe that will cure the rocking...

anyway, i hop that i can continue this work and have some more done by the end off the weekend.

Are you saying counterweight hits case saver insert? The back of it? No big deal, grind the back of case saver with a grinding stone, if you break through be sure to glue the stud in with sealant on that one. Pull crank all the way towards flywheel end to check stuff.

if i pull the crank all the way towards the flywheel all is fine. there is a mm off clearance between the bearing and counterweight. here is the pic i forgot to post it.


 

I wouldn't use the system one because it bypasses, when the engine is cold, at the bottom where all the crap sits. And I've seen blowouts on them as well. Some get a false sense of security with them and then they see a big blue cloud in their mirror. I've run them all and I always go back to an HP1 and the paper element. My oil always runs much cleaner with them.

i plan on using a HP1 filter or something similar we can get here in europe. i have used Mann filters before and they seem to work OK, or if i can get the O-berg in time that will be on the car.

Nicolas,when you have the endplay set it will not interfere with the bearing area,the crank will be pulled back so nothing needs to be done there:-)

cheers richie,uk

[nicolas]

thanks because i was worried a bit that i needed to grind that all away. i only want to grind so that i have clearance and every part moves freely, but not overdoing things. and indeed when i pull the crank towards the flywheel everything spins perfectly.

up to the second half and see that this baby gets clean again...

thanks

now may be a good time as well to ask what distributor ishould use. i have a few options here  the 019 that worked great in the 1641, or step up to the 010 that has been refurbished or do i go with something else (009 with compufire). i know the 019 made a huge difference in the old engine, so i ask the same question again. and what a shame you can't see the distributor better in a type3... 

[javabug]

Instead of PM'ing my stupid question to a good-natured engine builder (I'm sure he gets a lot), I'll post it here for everyone.

I'm preparing my AS21 case for machinework for 90.5 x 82 combo.  What work can I do before going to the machinist to make it as ready for him as possible?  I intend to measure the bearing journals and check for cracks.  It is already cleaned, and oil galley plugs are pulled.

Just go by the Fisher book on blueprinting the case?

[nicolas]

and about that fisher book...

how can i make my pump work better? blueprinting it? i don't get from the book??? i want it it work as good as possible as it pushes oil through 3meters of lines. and then gets back in the case. i am sure some pressure gets lost along the way, so i figured it is essential to address this part as well.

[Harry/FDK]

It really says so... do i need to scan the piece of paper?

I can vouch for that...

Don't ignore yourselves, have everything balanced solo, then combo: crank--pulley-- pressureplate--clutchplate--flywheel.

Canton-Mecca Filter, 8 Micron....Works for me for years. Be easy when engine is cold. And Nicolas, mount the standard oilcooler.

My 2 cents.

[syncro de mayo]

and about that fisher book...

how can i make my pump work better? blueprinting it? i don't get from the book??? i want it it work as good as possible as it pushes oil through 3meters of lines. and then gets back in the case. i am sure some pressure gets lost along the way, so i figured it is essential to address this part as well.

i sware by the wix filters. there's a grey hair guy going around selling uni filters too. try one of those wrapped around a wix filter and your good to go.

[nicolas]

got the other half of the case done today and it goes a lot faster and better when you have done one before. i hope to clean everything this weekend and hopefullyget my missing parts back. i start to get anxious to start builing and measuring and tearing down again and building again...

but first i will get the crank into its place and see if everything turns freely with the case closed and pistons installed.

any guides on the oilpump?

[richie]

and about that fisher book...

how can i make my pump work better? blueprinting it? i don't get from the book??? i want it it work as good as possible as it pushes oil through 3meters of lines. and then gets back in the case. i am sure some pressure gets lost along the way, so i figured it is essential to address this part as well.

If you can get a nice thick piece of glass or something slimilarly flat,take some 300+ grit wet n dry sand paper and place it on the glass,now flat sand the oil pump housing and your pump cover as flat as you can,then repeat with 600+ paper til its real smooth and flat,if you plan on running a gasket between the pump & cover then try to sand the pump till the gears are flush with the mating edge,you want the gears as close to the cover as possible,then assuming you are full flowing it,tap it and fit the bung,also you can bung the  matching hole in the case that wont be used anymore,

cheers richie,uk

[nicolas]

thanks for this info Richie, i think i can do that and indeed i will have the fullflow system, it is allready done to the pump and case. and there is also something about opening up the space in the pump itself, but i may better not though that for now...

regards

[nicolas]

yes today i want to get my cam and had the gears fitted to the crank as well. so i am almost out off the woods on the bottmend issue. i have a checkup with my headshop to see if we can get the right CR with this deckhight so that looks promesing.

and i am still looking for an affordable bearing on number 4... the case has been linebored to 1mm and the crank to 0.25 and it is a buté 21 bearing. i am not quite sure off the english term. but i know the saddle behind the flywheel has been reground.

if i can get that part i can assemble the bottomend and hope my heads are done not too long after that. but first i will clean everything again and see if that cam fits without problems.

[Jim Ratto]

sounds like you need #1 bearing that works with thrust cut.
Your machine shop is supposed to supply that after he thrust cuts case.
We used to "make" a bearing to fit, assuring extra crush into case.

[nicolas]

OK one more question... ( i really need to make a topic in the IN DA WORKS section...)

now my cam does not fit the bearing... the bearing with the shoulders is pinched by the cam. if it goes on the left side off the case closest to the oilpump at least???

i will make a topic and post pics later.

[Jim Ratto]

sand the thrust surfaces on the two thrust bearings until you have .0015"-.002"
email me for some more specifics.

see you,
Jim

[christophe]

Nicolas this post may help you when putting together your engine: http://www.flat4ever.com/showthread.php?t=39715

[nicolas]

Nicolas this post may help you when putting together your engine: http://www.flat4ever.com/showthread.php?t=39715

thanks for the link ths is very usefull.