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Author Topic: Repair Real Empi 5's question?  (Read 7020 times)
Fritte
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« on: June 09, 2016, 20:28:37 pm »

One of my Real Empi five have some cracks in the spokes.

Do anyone know what real Empi's are made of? How much Magnesium/alu?

What kind of alloy?

Regaeds Fredrik.
« Last Edit: June 13, 2016, 19:43:25 pm by Fritte » Logged

12.63-174kmt @ SCC 2012. JPM Dyno: 173hk @ 7000rpm. 209Nm
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Zach Gomulka
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« Reply #1 on: June 09, 2016, 20:38:07 pm »

I've seen many EMPI 5's that have been welded, but there is no guarantee they won't crack again.
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henk
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« Reply #2 on: June 10, 2016, 10:27:41 am »

Magnesium can be welded if they use the correct material.

Henk!!!
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Fritte
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« Reply #3 on: June 10, 2016, 10:45:52 am »

Yes i know they may crack again, but i want to try repair it.

What material are they made of?
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12.63-174kmt @ SCC 2012. JPM Dyno: 173hk @ 7000rpm. 209Nm
oppdatere til å bruke
Jos
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« Reply #4 on: June 13, 2016, 04:44:22 am »

aluminum
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Fritte
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« Reply #5 on: June 13, 2016, 19:41:08 pm »

I really need som info!
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12.63-174kmt @ SCC 2012. JPM Dyno: 173hk @ 7000rpm. 209Nm
oppdatere til å bruke
56BLITZ
DKK
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« Reply #6 on: June 13, 2016, 20:50:42 pm »

They are die-cast aluminum.
If the wheel is bolted to the drum with "Ball-Seat" lugs, it does not mater how well you are able to weld, it WILL crack again . . . you just will not know when it will crack again, but it WILL crack again sometime after you drive on that repaired wheel!
It will last much longer in your spare-tire well!
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Zach Gomulka
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« Reply #7 on: June 13, 2016, 23:41:24 pm »

They are die-cast aluminum.
If the wheel is bolted to the drum with "Ball-Seat" lugs, it does not mater how well you are able to weld, it WILL crack again . . . you just will not know when it will crack again, but it WILL crack again sometime after you drive on that repaired wheel!
It will last much longer in your spare-tire well!

He's right. The early ball seat style is very thin around the lugs. EMPI realized this and made the later wheels use "mag" style lug nuts.
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Fritte
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« Reply #8 on: June 14, 2016, 07:52:43 am »

The crack is not in the bell-seat area.
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12.63-174kmt @ SCC 2012. JPM Dyno: 173hk @ 7000rpm. 209Nm
oppdatere til å bruke
Fritte
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2044 48IDA


« Reply #9 on: June 14, 2016, 07:57:39 am »

Will it last longer if i re drill and make it like the "mag" style lug nuts, after i repair the cracks?
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12.63-174kmt @ SCC 2012. JPM Dyno: 173hk @ 7000rpm. 209Nm
oppdatere til å bruke
speedwell
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« Reply #10 on: June 14, 2016, 11:14:30 am »

got the same cracks on mine fritte , i 've found some guy able to weld them here , now just need to bring them to the guys  Grin
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56BLITZ
DKK
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« Reply #11 on: June 14, 2016, 16:36:21 pm »

The crack is not in the bell-seat area.
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The problem is NOT with the lug area per se.
When EMPI redesigned the "5-spoke" wheels, they not only changed the lug style, they added much more webbing inside each spoke.
The MOST important change, however, was they eliminated that square, inside corner that is on the edge of both sides of each spoke. Sometimes referred to as a "stress riser", it WILL almost always crack there!
If you can build-up weld to create a radius in that area, it MIGHT help reduce the tendency for the spoke to crack.
The crack from the hub area could very well be the result of carelessness or abuse. Those wheels should never see a tire-changing machine!
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Jesucristo es mi Señor y Salvador!
speedwell
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« Reply #12 on: June 14, 2016, 18:40:57 pm »

here's the difference between both empi  1st & 2nd generation
1st genreation lug nut hole

2nd generation lugnut hole

1st generation edge behind the spoke

2nd generation edge behind the spoke
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oldspeed 61 standard empi/speedwell
Fritte
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Posts: 139


2044 48IDA


« Reply #13 on: June 15, 2016, 07:45:26 am »

The crack is not in the bell-seat area.
[ Attachment: You are not allowed to view attachments ]

The problem is NOT with the lug area per se.
When EMPI redesigned the "5-spoke" wheels, they not only changed the lug style, they added much more webbing inside each spoke.
The MOST important change, however, was they eliminated that square, inside corner that is on the edge of both sides of each spoke. Sometimes referred to as a "stress riser", it WILL almost always crack there!
If you can build-up weld to create a radius in that area, it MIGHT help reduce the tendency for the spoke to crack.
The crack from the hub area could very well be the result of carelessness or abuse. Those wheels should never see a tire-changing machine!


I have to 1st and to 2nd generaton.
The cracks are only on the 1st.

I will try weld up a radius to reduce the "stress rise" on 1st generation.

Thanks for all the help Smiley
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12.63-174kmt @ SCC 2012. JPM Dyno: 173hk @ 7000rpm. 209Nm
oppdatere til å bruke
56BLITZ
DKK
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« Reply #14 on: June 15, 2016, 18:11:55 pm »

Good luck with the repairs . . . I would like to see photos of them on your Beetle!
FWIW . . . I think that the two-piece EMPI 5-spokes are the BEST looking wide-5 wheels ever!!!
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Jesucristo es mi Señor y Salvador!
Fritte
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2044 48IDA


« Reply #15 on: June 16, 2016, 07:58:26 am »

Yes i agree, the best looking wide-5 wheels  Cool

The car is a 67 euro with us front fenders. A 1776ccm, engel 120, Bosch010, DDS sump and 42 Berg spesis.
l [ Attachment: You are not allowed to view attachments ]
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12.63-174kmt @ SCC 2012. JPM Dyno: 173hk @ 7000rpm. 209Nm
oppdatere til å bruke
RichardinNZ
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« Reply #16 on: June 16, 2016, 09:05:31 am »

Great looking car.  Great wheels, exhaust, stance and engine!

Sent from my SM-N920I using Tapatalk

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Richard, Auckland, New Zealand

'58 Bug; NZ assembled
Dual Carb 36hp
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