My 67 notch expands to 2.2 liter

[Type1/DVK]

Nice project Felix, i like it very much that you spend alot of time on all those details! did you also spend some time on ''boattailing'' the case on the inside? (making the passage between cilinders bigger)? I've build some engines with the new vw cases, and they are very rough on casting finish, i've also spotted that sealing problem on some cilinders base, helicoils not deep enough etc.

The blue colour maybe the residue of the honing process?? i have no clue.. That VHT stuff looks great, it's on a powder base i think?

Also a good tip for head/cilinder sealing is to use valve paste and put some in the head edge and twist the barrel in the cilinder head, this gives better sealing surface.

Good job and keep the pictures roll''n

Grt and see you @ DFL402

[Rasser]

Isn´t the cylinders seated right on the bottom heating element in the oven?  This part gets hotter than the 280 degrees you set the oven at, and the cylinders suck all the heat. If I were to ever put the cylinders in the oven, then I would put them in the middle, because the heat is better controlled here. Maybe they did get to hot? 

[red baron]

Thank ya Max! Und echt lässige Bedalatschen 

Ahhhh..okay now u owned me!

wow felix, this thing is going together really fast. I'd love to be as far as u with my build. But it'll take some time. Maybe DDD 2010. Studying sucks - no time/no money.

[vwfye]

i may be all wet here, but doesn't the oil at the cooler galley need a way to flow from one to the other or did you address that while the case was apart?  i'd hate to see your engine oil starved!!!

[Felix/DFL]

Isn´t the cylinders seated right on the bottom heating element in the oven?  This part gets hotter than the 280 degrees you set the oven at, and the cylinders suck all the heat. If I were to ever put the cylinders in the oven, then I would put them in the middle, because the heat is better controlled here. Maybe they did get to hot? 

Hi Rasser,
thank`s for your thoughts and you should be right with the bottom of the oven. Next time in the middle...I hope piston ring break in will not last much longer than normal as the cylinder wall will be harder now.

i may be all wet here, but doesn't the oil at the cooler galley need a way to flow from one to the other or did you address that while the case was apart?  i'd hate to see your engine oil starved!!!

Thank ya mate.
I even thouht about this problem.When closed completly an amount of air will rest up there taht`s for sure. That will effect the pressure readings at the orig. terminal but will be bad for the engine? I don`t know...
But I will look if I could tap the oil cooler itself and drill a small passage hole in the case to let a small amount of oil flow.

Sadly I haven`t got much time in the last weeks to do many things on the engine/car. Just small things.
Some mounting Hardware:




Modified the header to a big flange and needed to shorten the merged section to get it fit.


The other Glaspack will make the set up symetric in the next days:

[Carsten]

:-)
This kind of exhaust may be...somehow...a little loud !?
Would be interesting to hear !
Greets , Carsten

[Felix/DFL]

Hey Carsten now I have two of them 
Should be 1/2 loud as one,or? 

finished the Dual glaspack with adjustable mounts that go to header clamps. The adjustment and exact fittig was very time robbing and I first went with a straight setup to the end panel which looked very bad. So I cut it in pieces again and went with an angled fittig.






I now came with an other solution to stay with the orig. cooler look and have some oilflow in that section.
Freed for 1/4 to AN-6 Adapter


The tube got some little grooves athough I filled it with sand and taped it before bending. Not good looking but raw...I will block the first adapter and drill it to 2-4mm to reduce the oil flow tru that section.


Cooler spaced


Stock looking as I wanted it. Other main advantage is that I must not modify the 3/4 enginetin:


A Kerscher discbarke isn`t a bad idea to compensate the 2,2l power that hepefully will be in action soon...The header paint will rub off quick.

[Nico86]

Nice job, that type 3 is great !

[Carsten]

Looks good ! Where do you get the mufflers/Glaspacks from ? Which diameter do they have ?
Greets , Carsten

[JHU]

Great idea on that exhaust!!    Thinking outside the box!

[Felix/DFL]

Thank`s guys!
The glaspacks are from CSP an 2" outer diameter

[Type1/DVK]

enough flow trough that curved pipe? if you'd filled it with a copper wire it won't flatten when bending.

Nice mod's! keep up the pace and pictures!

[Jesse/DVK]

Nice going Felix! Will it be ready for DFL 402? Would like to race you 

[Felix/DFL]

Hey Jesse,

sadly the notch will not be ready for DFL402/Bitbug...I am a bit pissed about that point, cause last year I could make many passes and tests at DFL402/Bitbug absolutley not comparable with Dragday. To less time at the moment to wrench...

Case is still not mounted finally. I wanted to do the exhaust first (case without interna) and then complete the engine clean.
All pan`s need to be glasblasted & painted, oil cooler clamp and air duct ist still not made and 100 other little things
Hope to complete the engine in 1-2 months.

@Jesse: Race at Dragday 

@ Typ1/DVK:
A cooper wire is a good trick I will try that out on the next engine

I WANT to reduce the oil flow at that spot. There is now bearing that needs oil after the cooler. A massive oil flow at that point could even be a problem...I will reduce the bore at the first AN Adapter to a 2-3mm bore. Only the air should get out of that section...



Greetings,
Felix

[67-indeed/DVK]

felix, why not drop in the 1776?
see you at DFL 402

[Felix/DFL]

felix, why not drop in the 1776?
see you at DFL 402

I don`t want to step back man... Another thing is that the 1776 doesn`t exist anymore.

There is only the short block left. Heads & cylinders are sold and I have bought a 94mm cylinder kit   
Crank (78 or 82mm) and heads next year.

Have you painted your case already?

[Felix/DFL]

In the last days I finished the heads for the second time...

I had to cut the heads a bit deeper for the wanted compression of 10.5. So I needed to extend & smooth the outer section to cylinder wall again.
Firts time the heads were cut I was a bit to discret with the depth so the heads came out with a 9.5 compression. My fault...

Marked with cylinder


raw stadium


After a bit smoothing I brung all combustion chambers to the exact volume. At one head both chambers were very close. The other head differed about 1ml. I removed material behind the sparkplug. That bbrings the spark a bit more to the middle of the bowl.



3 Holes made the process easier.


A burette is such a nice working tool. The injection method I even worked with before is way to inexact. Try to get 3 exact same readings with the injection and you will see what I mean.


finished


After that I cut back the exhaust guides as they extend way to much into the port. I didn`t want to cut them back complete to make the life a bit easier for the guides...

[Felix/DFL]

back on the track...

The long block is now finished. 

Sadly I couldn`t make too many pics as my camera is dead. So I had to borrow me one.

I extended the orig. pick up tube and slided/hammered a bigger pipe over the existing and welded them together for safety. The end is made a bit smaller on a lathe to fit into the oil screen which I extended a bit.
I taped the pipe into the case with sealant to make a 100% leak proof connection.

Much much much time was spent to get ALL parts really clean. It`s interesting how dirty even new parts are. The total seal rings were one of those canidates.

Case is sealed with Loctide 574, cylinders and washers with Dirko HT.I got some big SW15 head nuts plated for the case assembly gives a good contrast to the black.
The head nuts are of course even plated and the big washers.

Next step (and one step further to drive  ) is the complete engine tin which needs to be painted.

[nicolas]

hey, looks really good. but quick question. what paint did you use on the case? that looks good.

[DKK Rick]

Stupid Question... aren't the case nuts on backwards? Shouldn't the red seal go towards the case against the washers?

[Gäschen]

Stupid Question... aren't the case nuts on backwards? Shouldn't the red seal go towards the case against the washers?

Well that's one of the Berg trick's..

[DKK Rick]

Hmmm. never saw that one before

[Felix/DFL]

hey, looks really good. but quick question. what paint did you use on the case? that looks good.

Thank ya man.
I have used VHT engine enamel burned in in an oven.

@DKK Rick: As Gäschen said it`s an old berg trick. I think the idea behind is that the plastic seal will give an incorrect torque AND the nut may get a bit looser after some heating and cooling cycles.

[Zach Gomulka]

Superb attention to detail

[Nico86]

I like the black engine case.

[67-indeed/DVK]

so do I 

when is the next update felix? get to work