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Author Topic: truss bar  (Read 14601 times)
Lee.C
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« Reply #30 on: January 17, 2009, 23:58:15 pm »

Their rear support bar is indeed crap! On the bright side it's at least chromed...  Roll Eyes

Dam right! I have a few cool ideas for mine though  Wink Also is it just me or does the use of "Hemi-joints" in these so called truss bars inherantly allow FLEX/TWIST thus defeating the point of them  Undecided Smiley

Anyone hav any thoughts on my point about the hemi joints  Undecided Huh Smiley
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Shubee2 (DSK)
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« Reply #31 on: January 18, 2009, 00:06:28 am »

Do They make a Truss for an early pan? with the straight upper shock bolts?
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« Reply #32 on: January 18, 2009, 06:03:48 am »

hey subee look at the one at eyeball-engineering.net, he has early and late truss bars way better than any out yet.  take a look hope this helps
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lowfastbus
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« Reply #33 on: January 18, 2009, 19:42:43 pm »

, do they need to be adjustable??
They don't need to be adjustable, just rigid.  Adjustability just makes installation easy in every car.


Cool, then welded bars it will be...
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« Reply #34 on: January 27, 2009, 03:34:24 am »

well this is way old now seems but heres a shot of my trussbar setup finally....


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Eric Justus
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« Reply #35 on: January 27, 2009, 03:59:48 am »

I wonder if a traction bar actually bolted to T2/T3 mount bosses on case would completely rid a car of wheel hop?
I know a normal traction bar, like Berg's stops downward travel, but under wheel hop, the motor is bouncing around like a BB in a coffee can. If the bar is tensioned "enough" I guess it would pre load the motor upwards enough, but what if the engine was located in the rear in all directions, by bolting the case directly to a tensioned bar? I suppose a guy could even fashion some type of rubber dampers to go between case and bar (10mm male thread to screw into case, then hard rubber spacer, then female 10 or even 12mm threads to bolt traction bar to). Danny Gabbard are you listening?

sorry to take this off the above topic.

I couldnt run a traction bar on my 343. I ran the CSP truss bar and it eliminated all wheel hop and helped click off 1.4-1.6 60 foots too  Wink
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Jon
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« Reply #36 on: January 27, 2009, 10:17:28 am »

I`m not a brigde builder

Here you go BB, a crash course in bridge building (truss) construction:

Wiki: "The nature of a truss allows for the analysis of the structure using a few assumptions and the application of Newton's laws of motion according to branch of physics known as statics. For purposes of analysis, truss are assumed to be pin jointed where the straight components meet. This assumption means that members of the truss (chords, verticals and diagonals) will only act in tension or compression."

In other words, the point is to design so there is no bending...  the CSP design has no bending, while the other design relies on the top bar being stiff enough not to bend.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Truss_bridge
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ian c
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« Reply #37 on: January 28, 2009, 08:04:20 am »

hey subee look at the one at eyeball-engineering.net, he has early and late truss bars way better than any out yet.  take a look hope this helps

ive had my eye on one of them for a while  Grin
the tranny brace looks good as well .
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« Reply #38 on: January 29, 2009, 06:56:22 am »

hey you guy's are talking about a truss bar?  Why do you have to  HACK on the body make it fit?  CSP I spoke to them about it, at the Bug-in , they pretty much looked the other way.  Don't get me wrong nice piec of machine work  I had one but sold it, didn't want to detroy my car. IMO
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airstuff
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« Reply #39 on: January 29, 2009, 12:29:11 pm »

What do you guys say about the Eyeball engineering kit?

Here you go the link:

http://eyeball-engineering.net/TorqueBar.html

I like it
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BeetleBug
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« Reply #40 on: January 29, 2009, 12:50:59 pm »

What do you guys say about the Eyeball engineering kit?

Here you go the link:

http://eyeball-engineering.net/TorqueBar.html

I like it

I like it too, but do they have it in stock?
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airstuff
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« Reply #41 on: January 29, 2009, 13:14:01 pm »

hey BeetleBug,

send thema mail to :  Productquestions@Eyeball-Engineering.net
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ian c
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« Reply #42 on: January 29, 2009, 15:37:48 pm »

the way its designed , it should suffer more flex on the horizontal bar , but its nice and thick to overcome that .
means there is no chance of clashes with big headers too .

the way theres a joint makes it easier to fit too .

as i said earlier , the tranny brace is a nice piece of kit ...
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Hotrodvw
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« Reply #43 on: January 31, 2009, 06:18:12 am »




I basically built an exact copy of the black one like in this pic.  Here are pics of mine.  I also used 1"x.120" mild steel hydraulic tubing, w/ 1/2" heims.  I welded brackets to my solid rear mount rather than fab an eyelet set up for the frame horn bolts. 












« Last Edit: January 31, 2009, 06:20:57 am by Hotrodvw » Logged

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« Reply #44 on: January 31, 2009, 06:51:35 am »

  Looks good nice work, I have a little question on the Beefiness of some of the tabs but looks like you did a good job.

 I'm very happy with how mine came out here's a shot again done by Mike at 407 sppeed shack in Downey Ca. Welded in but no cutting of body.

 
« Last Edit: January 31, 2009, 06:54:53 am by Jason Foster » Logged

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Hotrodvw
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« Reply #45 on: January 31, 2009, 06:54:57 am »

I'm not racing yet, so it hasn't been 'thoroughly' tested yet.  Weld in didn't appeal to me.  I like things removeable.  I've never liked something so much I had to have it forever.......except for my wife.   Wink
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louisb
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« Reply #46 on: January 31, 2009, 14:12:24 pm »

Not to change the subject, but what is the best way to keep the rear frame horns from flexing? Tieing it into a roll cage?

--louis
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ian c
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« Reply #47 on: January 31, 2009, 17:36:19 pm »

Their rear support bar is indeed crap! On the bright side it's at least chromed...  Roll Eyes

Dam right! I have a few cool ideas for mine though  Wink Also is it just me or does the use of "Hemi-joints" in these so called truss bars inherantly allow FLEX/TWIST thus defeating the point of them  Undecided Smiley

Anyone hav any thoughts on my point about the hemi joints  Undecided Huh Smiley

the joints give ease of installation , but are also there for pre-tensioning .
you tension the sides differently to help stop the engine twisting when you rev it .
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ian c
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« Reply #48 on: January 31, 2009, 17:37:42 pm »

Not to change the subject, but what is the best way to keep the rear frame horns from flexing? Tieing it into a roll cage?

--louis

1 : tied into the cage .
2 : welded to chassis .
3 : truss bar / tranny brace / traction bar .
« Last Edit: February 06, 2009, 08:17:52 am by ian c » Logged

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Neil Davies
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« Reply #49 on: February 02, 2009, 10:46:12 am »

Not to change the subject, but what is the best way to keep the rear frame horns from flexing? Tieing it into a roll cage?

--louis

It amazes me that people are willing to go down the strip in 12 second cars without any form of roll over protection. If I was putting in some form of bracing system into the back of a car that would see any amount of track time, I would take the opportunity to add at least a roll bar and rear diagonals.
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nicolas
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« Reply #50 on: February 02, 2009, 13:03:56 pm »

Not to change the subject, but what is the best way to keep the rear frame horns from flexing? Tieing it into a roll cage?

--louis

It amazes me that people are willing to go down the strip in 12 second cars without any form of roll over protection. If I was putting in some form of bracing system into the back of a car that would see any amount of track time, I would take the opportunity to add at least a roll bar and rear diagonals.

true.

BUT in Belgium (where else  Roll Eyes ) it is illegal to put a rollbar or cage in a car that is driven on the street. i have heard it and asked myself and they said it is illegal. can't get my head around that either as all new cars basically have rollcages build into the chassis and case...
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Stephan32
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« Reply #51 on: February 02, 2009, 14:56:50 pm »

Hi Guys,

Here are my experiences.
I did run a berg mid mound on rubber and torque bars. ( similiar to CSP stuff )
Both did not help to eliminate wheel hop.
I welded the lower part of the torque bar to the frame horns.... it ripped out of it.. serious! ( the weld was perfect )
After that I installed a stiffer and more solid rear gear box support, welded onto that no problem.
Still wheel hop.
I then fitted solid mounts to the berg mid mount  ( cheers Tobi ) and it got better, but wasn`t gone.
At last I fitted a rear engine support, not solid with rubber.
Since wheel hop is gone...

But one thing, the CSP torque bar has one big plus, the rear suspension gets much stiffer and the handling
of any fast street car improves by miles.
Excellent when you like a "snappy" back end.


Cheers Stephan
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Harry/FDK
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« Reply #52 on: February 03, 2009, 21:33:00 pm »

hey you guy's are talking about a truss bar?  Why do you have to  HACK on the body make it fit?  CSP I spoke to them about it, at the Bug-in , they pretty much looked the other way.  Don't get me wrong nice piec of machine work  I had one but sold it, didn't want to detroy my car. IMO

There is absolutely no need to hack up the body with the CSP bar. You just need to have the long block with exhaust pipes
1 and 3 ready, to make/tack the lower brackets. The upper bar is the "easy" fit.
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PIP
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« Reply #53 on: February 04, 2009, 15:49:46 pm »



Oldspeed setup
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Hotrodvw
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« Reply #54 on: February 04, 2009, 16:04:20 pm »

I would move the tranny cradle ends down as close to the frame horns as possible.
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louisb
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« Reply #55 on: February 04, 2009, 16:07:44 pm »

That does not look like it is giving good triangulation.

--louis
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Hotrodvw
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« Reply #56 on: February 04, 2009, 16:09:28 pm »

Dam right! I have a few cool ideas for mine though  Wink Also is it just me or does the use of "Hemi-joints" in these so called truss bars inherantly allow FLEX/TWIST thus defeating the point of them  Undecided Smiley
[/quote]

Anyone hav any thoughts on my point about the hemi joints  Undecided Huh Smiley
[/quote]

OK..........I'll bite.  I thought about this also.  I pre-loaded the down bars with the floor jack under the cradle.  Basically, I put the the weight of the car on the rear trans mount.  Nothing moved.  This is how I set mine up., so it's pulling upward.  If anything, the frame hors won't go any further.  My heims if anything are being pulled on.  
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Lee.C
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« Reply #57 on: February 04, 2009, 21:29:11 pm »

Dam right! I have a few cool ideas for mine though  Wink Also is it just me or does the use of "Hemi-joints" in these so called truss bars inherantly allow FLEX/TWIST thus defeating the point of them  Undecided Smiley

Anyone hav any thoughts on my point about the hemi joints  Undecided Huh Smiley
[/quote]

OK..........I'll bite.  I thought about this also.  I pre-loaded the down bars with the floor jack under the cradle.  Basically, I put the the weight of the car on the rear trans mount.  Nothing moved.  This is how I set mine up., so it's pulling upward.  If anything, the frame hors won't go any further.  My heims if anything are being pulled on. 
[/quote]

Hmmm interesting BUT Just the wait of the car is very different to the forces involved when launching on a sticky track with slicks  Undecided  Smiley
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Hotrodvw
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« Reply #58 on: February 04, 2009, 21:52:26 pm »

Possibly........but my car is a street car, not a race car.  It may occasionally see track time, but only on radials.  For my application, I think the heims are fine.  That said.....I have a friend that runs the same set up that I have on the track w/ M&H DOT slicks and has no issues either.
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