The Cal-look Lounge

Hi, im collecting parts to build a 2054cc motor.
I have,
mahle 94 p & c's
74mm cb crank
aa 5.4 rods
manton thin wall cut to length pushrods
40 idf carbs
1 5/8 speedshop exhaust
engle fk10
1.4 rockers
40 x 35 cb super mag cnc round ports.
case is clearanced, full flowed.
compression around 9, 9.5
How well do you think this combo will work,  are there any changes you would make?
Any comments will  be greatly appreciated
The engine is going in my full weight 72 bug, weekend toy.

Can't remember the spec of the FK10 but I would think thats is a fairly large cam for those heads and carbs?

Fk10 is specked at .385" cam lift, 539" valve lift with 1.4's, 266 duration.
Which cam would be better suited?
Maybe an fk8, or w120 with 1.25 rockers?
also forgot to mention it will have a 12.5 lb flywheel,
all rotating parts have been balanced
Thanks for the reply

IMO, the cam is too large for the heads and carbs. Exhaust is a little too large for the heads.
Unless you want to completely re- think the combo, the easiest, cheapest solution is use an FK7 and a 1 1/2 header with the rest of your current parts.

Good afternoon everyone  :)

For what it is worth, I ran an FK10 in my 1966cc (full weight UK spec. '71) with  Autocraft 1.4:1 ratio rockers, CB 044 'heads w/40mm x 35.5mm 'valves and 9.5:1 CR (can't remember exhaust spec.), Weber 40IDF's with CB Performance's update kit, and I have to say IMO, it ran very well ;D

And if I recall correctly, it idled at just under 1000RPM 8)

I used it daily for a number of months with no hassle, and I especially enjoyed pulling away from a certain toll crossing on the M25.... ;)

Martin.

I would go for aluminum pushrods for less valve train noise and more hp.

Thanks for the info everyone.
tourist, your motor sound great, just what I am after.
Do you have any idea what bhp it was pulling?
ive read quite a few posts with similar engines using the fk10,  some saying it will work well others saying it wont.
still a little confused.

Might  as well give you mine toughts of the FK10.
I have one in my engine as well(2110cc) .
I like it alot but when it is for daily driver or so i would take an FK8 or so.
I really like the FK10 in my engine but you have to launch it to get the must fun out of it.
If you don't mind to rev your engine i think the FK10 is a nice cam.

Henk!!!

Good afternoon puk72 :),

I have no idea what BHP it was pulling as never had it dynoed or rolling roaded :-[ , the power band for the FK10 if I recall correctly, is between 3500rpm to 7000rpm- in my set up (and how I drove.... ;) )I can definately say it worked for me ;D, but can´t say if it will work for you in your circumstances  :(

Good luck in your quest 8),
Martin. 

Why not go for a larger set of heads and carbs? They wont bite, not hard anyway..  ;D

Go 42/37 Miniwedge or wedge, matchported manifolds and 44 IDF :) Or even larger 48 carbs. 

I like this suggestion....  ;);D

8)
Martin. :)

I used 44 IDF's on my 1679 with 40 X 35.5 valves and it ran awesome.  44's come with 36mm venturies.

I have to say this had crossed my mind. the only reason I have the 40's lying around is because my girlfriend bought me them as a birthday present. Suppose I could sell them, buy something bigger and hope she doesn't  notice  ;). If it opens up a good bit more power, it is an option.

My 42/37 wedgies makes good power with a web 86c 1,4 rockers and IDAs (40 vents.

Clean up the 40's and put them in the living room shelf :)


How much power do you want?

Well, if you go larger on the valves, the carbs are DEFINITELY too small. If heads are not already bought, a set of Panchito´s or similar with slightly more port area would be nice, otherwise keep the Round ports. An FK8 would be nice, the 10ér will make the lower rpm suffer a good deal. 9,5-1 with the FK8 is fine. With a little more carburetion such combo´s typically hover around 150 hp when built right. With the IDF´s (somewhat dependant on the model) you will be limited to about 135 hp.
T

Well, if you go larger on the valves, the carbs in myre DEFINITELY too small. If heads are not already bought, a set of Panchito´s or similar with slightly more port area would be nice, otherwise keep the Round ports. An FK8 would be nice, the 10ér will make the lower rpm suffer a good deal. 9,5-1 with the FK8 is fine. With a little more carburetion such combo´s typically hover around 150 hp when built right. With the IDF´s (somewhat dependant on the model) you will be limited to about 135 hp.
T
[/quote]

Thanks for the info, if I could achieve 150 bhp I would be very happy.

Then the heads and carbs should be the first to go.

Stock geared car?
I've run the K10 in a few street and in one race motor. It's a great cam for surge of power above 4000 in a long stroke street car. Bottom end with 82mm crank and big ports, 42 x 37 valves and 48 Webers was a little on the sluggish side.
In the 69mm stroke motor, 11:1, 48 Webers and very agressive welded heads, it had nothing really under 5000. This was a 1914 that went 12.81.
The 40 IDF Webers and FK10 are not going to run well. The reversion back up intake, on your size motor is going to be pretty strong, due to long overlap of that cam. A lot of reversion needs big venturies to deaden the signal to circuits, or the carburetors will be what I like to call "confused" (same reason Kadrons don't like longer duration cams). I think the biggest factory venturi you can slide into 40IDF is 32mm (?). Those CB spray bar kits come with bigger, but I never liked the way those worked and they only contribute to fuel reversion (like the old orig 40mm Solexes nobody could make work in mid 1950's- Covenrty Climax, Lancia, first Carreras....).
Your 40mm valve will "mathematically" make peak power @ about 5300 rpm. To make good peak power at that rpm, you need a 32-33mm venturi (you can get 32's for your 40's). But the FK10 is just getting going at this rpm and it's going to want to go to 7-7200 rpmif you had the carburetion. The heads can be made to turn those rpms with the 40mm valve and a cam like FK10 or W130 or similar. (you need to look closely at your spring setup if you're going to spin it like this and expect it to live on the street though). In any case, I would keep the carbs, keep the heads, still set up valvetrain as best as you can, and ditch the K10 and go something with no more than 255' @ .050" and around .460-.490" at valve, again if this is going to be a driver. Web 110 is a fantastic hot street cam. Engle 125 still to this day is one of my favorites and it's overlooked too often now a days. That 125 would actually really like 44IDFs.... but my point is the K10 is better used with big venturies, high-ish CR, and used as a half-way sane street car. You have to experience how a tamer cam will just float with a wave of torque under it on the highway. I ran a 2054 with 125 Engle years ago, still best running all around engine ever, in 24 years of doing this.

Thanks for the great explanation Jim.
The car is running stock gearing.
so with this in mind.....revised list

mahle 94 p&c's
Cb 74mm crank
aa 5.4 rods
manton thin wall pushrods
40 idfs
1 5/8 speedshop exhaust
web 110
1.1 rockers on bolt ups?
40 x 35 cb supr mag cnc round ports?
compression 8.5:1, 9?

Although it is only going to be a weekend car, I still want it to be a fun ( ie not hard work in traffic).
power around 120-150 hp would be good.

I like it. Given the rest of the car is up to snuff, this could very well be a nice daily driver. The state of tune is similar to 911T with carbs, with a little more cam timing (prob closer to orig 911 "Solex cams" . Power will come on nicely around 2000 and run to 5800-6000. I have run 1.25 rockers on the Web 110, with no ill effect, but a friend did the same in his 1700 and broke some springs and bent exh valve. He knew no rev limits though.
I really like this type of tune. Nice plan.

I have that engine with the Berg version of an Engle 110. Great all around engine in my stock geared (heavy) convertible.