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| | |-+  anyone fitted a screw/tap-in head temp sensor?
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Author Topic: anyone fitted a screw/tap-in head temp sensor?  (Read 2814 times)
the beard
Guest
« on: January 29, 2009, 12:03:07 pm »

I have the autometer head temp guage that only comes with proper 1/8 NPT brass sensor  - head must be drilled and tapped.  I've been looking at possible positions and am looking at drilling through two of the cooling fins (see attached pic) over number 3 cylinder.  Was wondering if anyone had done this before.  Not sure if the fins are a bit brittle for doing this.  Any suggestions welcomed!  By the way this pic is just a 1200 test clyinder head before I risk it all on the expensive head.....
Cheers
Phil
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ESH
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 2006


« Reply #1 on: January 29, 2009, 12:13:27 pm »

Going on past history you need to face up to some facts, if you drill a hole the last thing you'll do is screw something into it, you'll see the air, start thinking free speed and go through the rest of the head like a termite. I'd stay away from that one if I were you!

 Shocked Grin
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Rocket Ron
Hero Member
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Posts: 2861


It's old school for a reason


« Reply #2 on: January 29, 2009, 14:48:58 pm »

I have the autometer head temp guage that only comes with proper 1/8 NPT brass sensor  - head must be drilled and tapped.  I've been looking at possible positions and am looking at drilling through two of the cooling fins (see attached pic) over number 3 cylinder.  Was wondering if anyone had done this before.  Not sure if the fins are a bit brittle for doing this.  Any suggestions welcomed!  By the way this pic is just a 1200 test clyinder head before I risk it all on the expensive head.....
Cheers
Phil

Hi

I have done this on two engines, right where you are pointing.

The fins are not as brittle as you think. Just be sure to measure the width of the sender with a drill bit gauge, use the correct dill and take a little time when tapping the thread.

On the first one I did I used the sender with a little grease on it to tap the hole

Ron

 
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13.12 @ 101.84

Grooving out on life

You can't polish a turd but you can roll it in glitter
the beard
Guest
« Reply #3 on: January 29, 2009, 16:08:06 pm »

Many thanks...here's a pic of the finished product.  8.5mm drill and 1/8 NPT 27 tap used.  Went in a treat...just into second fin.
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Rocket Ron
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 2861


It's old school for a reason


« Reply #4 on: January 29, 2009, 17:25:28 pm »

wow that was quick

glad I could help Wink
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13.12 @ 101.84

Grooving out on life

You can't polish a turd but you can roll it in glitter
Jonny Grigg
Full Member
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Posts: 232



« Reply #5 on: January 30, 2009, 20:52:12 pm »

Phil,

I did exactly what you have done, however after a while I just disconnected the guage....... and it ain't going back in on the rebuild.

On my motor with no cooling it just went full-scale deflection by mid-pass, so gave me no useful information  Roll Eyes Undecided

guess it would be useful on a street car though with full cooling  Smiley
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No Compromise. O/FF111
the beard
Guest
« Reply #6 on: January 31, 2009, 11:38:16 am »

Hi Jonny,

In fact this sender is destined for the tow vehicle.  Planning some scoops in the future so will be interesting to see how they affect head temps.

See ya tomozzah

Phil
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Bobby Welker
Newbie
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Posts: 23


« Reply #7 on: February 02, 2009, 05:27:25 am »

hello i placed it on the stud,  piece of round stock threaded on both ends . one for the stud and other for the guage after the case  nut ofcourse. i know it's not that accurate but i can guage it from that.  it usually stays consistent.
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