The Cal-look Lounge

Here is a picture of the new heads to my cadron equipped 1680ccm daily driver

Cool, I never knew that the 1680:s had a 10 stud head pattern!  ;D

The main focus of porting the heads, was to remove weight. The heads are now 1 kilo lighter, and I think that will improve my ET ;D

Are you going to run Kadrons on such huge intakes? I reckon they'll drown in there.
Did you matchport those manifolds already?

Kadrons was kind of a joke. The heads will be on top of my new 4" ARPM dry-sump case, and they will eat a lot of racefuel and nitrous.

Take Care

You could Quad-drone it ;)

 ;D

I might use Kadrons too  ;)

Look´s wild

can waith to see it in action

is this the carbs your are making to you engine ;) N2O

 (http://img20.imagevenue.com/loc326/th_51751_DSC00650_122_326lo.JPG) (http://img20.imagevenue.com/img.php?image=51751_DSC00650_122_326lo.JPG)

and old pic 28 / pic 50 *ggg*

I wouldn t laugh about kadrons if i where you...
you ever seen this page
http://www.lowbugget.com/main_page.html

Kind Regards Edgar

nice job n20 i like the way you kept the intake guide boss intaked you did these heads?. i love the AF heads. ive had great sucsess with them. they make great 250hp 91oct 9.8.1 street heads. my next set will be when i get time 55x40 pump 91oct 108mm bore type 1 street engine hopefuly pushing over  the 300hp NA envelope.  good luck to ya. again your heads look great!!.  U D

These heads have 50x40 valves and flows 262cfm@16mm lift (25" of water). I am aiming for 290-300 without nitrous

those are good numbers i notice the ID of your intake seat you have maxed out for the 50mm valve at what lift in inches did it flow the 262cfm. what was your at 3/4/500 lift cfm just curious. and you did flow with a int valve in it right?   would like to compare.   U D

They are messured in mm, but if I calculate to inches it is something like this:

137,2cfm@0,236"
174,3cfm@0,314"
205,2cfm@0,393"
223,5cfm@0,474"
247,2cfm@0,550"
262,0cfm@0,629"
270,9cfm@0,700"

Thanks
Roar

hello n20 hear are my flow figures remeber these are street heads with 65cc chambers.200lift 123cfm.  300lift 169cfm. 400lift 203cfm. 500lift 228cfm. 600lift 241cfm. 700lift 250cfm. my lift at the valve is 6.60 with fk44 and 1.61 rockers.  52x38 stainless 7mm stems. my intake size entering into head is 1.650 tall 1.725 wide a relitivle small sq compared to others. my ex ports are 1.400 small.  heads flowed at 700 lift with int valves installed.    thanks for your responce.  U D.

Have you moved the intake over to center of the head?

it is in stock AF location. its a 103 bore.  UD.

When we did my heads, we learned that a 52mm intake was to close to the cylinderwall (std AF location of valves), on a 101,6mm bore, the get the most out of it. That was the reason for using 50mm intake. When the intake is to close, you may hurt the flow and only end up with a heavier valve?

thats why i like the 7mm stems my 52mm intakes are the same wight ifnot lighter than 50mm 8mm stainless. i use the manley blankes so the margin is alot thiner and lighter than standerd flat top type 4 intake stainless valve. i use the tit super 7 keepers and the tit ret k800 installed hight 1.800. wich for a stainles valve train is light enoghf for what  im trying to achieve with my combo.absolutly no valve float present.  pure street torque from 2800/ 5800.  my engine is a 90x103 aunist to god street engine. no race engine here i could make it one very easly but why what would that prove absoluty nothing. i do know that i can drive my car to the trak pull my nessary stuff out like tools and jack leave all the seats. car wight is 2016lb with driver. in the 1/8th it has run a best of 7.56 at 91 and some change wich calculates out to 1/4 11.79 at 114.66mph. that was with 6in firestones. and a best time of 1/8 7.82 at 88mph wich calculates to a 12.20 at 110mph with wallmart street radials. and the greatest joy is i can load all my stuff back in my car and drive it home. the only time i ever towed my car wich was only once was at famosa it was very hot that day about 115 in the shade my car still ran 12.44 at 109 with the crapy radials. all the rest of the time i drove the car there. dont get me wrong i like race cars ive had plenty of them. but when you can take a street car NA and i mean a true street car pump gas material street car and not a light wight potato chip . and go out and run times that some light wight  race cars cant even  run then that i feel is a true acheivment in the ACVW world. its just going to get better and better. i will run a race car again some day  but i am having to much fun with the street car stuff.right now. eghonf rambeling. good luck with your ACVW project NTO. would like to here how it runs. go givem hell dude.  ;)   UD.  o ya i did tow it to vegas once but when i got there we drove a round trip of 60 miles up in the moutines to prove the street car thing. REAL STREET VERY COOL. so thats twice i towed it just tought i would set the record striat. see ya.  UD.

UD,

You've got one fast street car!!!

Aha! UD=Jeff Denham!
I am also building a big type 1 for the street but I limited it to 4" bore and 86 mm stroke. Like your car it is an unrestored, more or less stock bug.
The intake valves will be 50 or 51 mm Del West Ti 7 mm stems with Ti keepers and Ti retainers. If Nascar can run full throttle for 500 miles I am sure I can run one summer without any problems, even on the street. The new LS7 Corvette has Ti valves from factory, so why can't I?

How's your Fiat 600 doing UD. ;) ;D ;D ;D

Frank

Huh, Denham in stealth mode  8)

Roman, Ti valves are iffy on the street IMO unless your using Berillium valve seats.

My 2332 shortblock has been together for 2yrs. 1 year I had my SE heads with stainless valves (manton/cb chevy springs) . My valve lash was extremely consistant every time I checked. The following year I put my othe set of SE heads with CB performance Ti valves. Every 2 weeks I would check my valve lash (chromoly pushrods w/ zero lash) my intake valves would get tight all the time and my exhausts would move a tad. The next two weeks the valves would move again, again, again and again. I haven't pulled those heads apart yet but I'm just anticiapting some serious tulip. I'm running my stainless setup once again for my street car.

jeff denham whos that never heard of the caricter.   UD.

That's good... you probably wouldn't like him  ;D

I bought 8 brand new Ti valves from E-bay for $150 so it is a rather cheap test. If it doesn't work I'll just change.

Why did you go for 52mm intake?

n2o

That is cheap.

You'll find most guys running stainless hardened valve seats are getting 1000 km's on a ti valve setup for the street. Berillium is the way to go but alot of headshops dont feel like getting fatally ill by breathing in the toxic material.

yea your probibly right rick i will make darn sure i stear clear of that guy. nto. why did i go with 52mm valves to me it matches my bore size better ive still have plenty of room between intake and cly wall and i use a thik int valve seat so when i cut the 60deg angle for the valve job it gives it the major funel afect airspeed/ torqe. thats why the real big flow figures arnt there. but like i said before its a street car. i wasent seaching for the big #s. i have ported numeroes sets of auto craft heads (drag race stuff) that have flowed well over the 300 cfm mark huge ports comparied to my wimpy AF intake ports but thats what the custumor wanted big cfm  ::) its not all in the big numbers. you can always improve a head but its alot harder to put material back. i have numeros sets of these heads so the next set will be better if i feel like it.  UD.

Thanks, so if I understand this correctly, the main reason to go for that size inlet, is to have a long lasting seat for the street. 60 deg angle, is that for the seating of the valve, or is this a part of a 3 angle valve job. On my heads, we are using 45 deg angle for seating, and the rest is cut like a radius.
...and big cfm dosen't hurt if you can maintain the airspeed at the rpm you are aiming for   ;)

I will use either Nickel-aluminium bronze or cast iron seats as the Stainless is far too hard. 1000 km is approximately what I drive each year as we have a short season here. I live at about the same alutitude as Anchorage, Alaska and it is a weekend warrior, not a daily driver.

Hi Roman

That is cheep . But if a valve breaks it will be very expensive !! 7 mm for titanium is a very big risc !! I like the 11/32 stem .They are strong and the keepers are very big !

Regards udo

These valves came from a Nascar team and they use them 500 miles full throttle  with higher power output. Some of the top Nascar teams today even use 6 mm stems!!
Somebody got to try, that is what is driving technology forward. If everybody built engines like Berg we would have 7:1 compression and 90.5 bore...

perhaps one day people will use T4 engines too    ;-) 

nto. when i mean thik seat i mean small ID. thers 3 cuts on the seat 30/60/45. 60 is your first cut. i leave the ID small to create air speed. the more you open this area up and the port the less you have. i radius the 60deg angle on the bottem to a minimum. if the head comes with guide boss i leave it in( air speed excelirator) and better guide structure. alot of people will mow this out. then what you have is a port volume head. ive seen and done more heads that have flowed conservitly that have stomped on big # heads. torqe is what gets you down the track and street. goood cam choose and rod angle have alot to do with it also. but that is a totaly differnt subject. my thery is if you can make it down at a low rpm the better you are its not (wankle) its a vw but thats ME sure i love hearing a hi reving vw they sound bittchen how long they last is something else some people are RPM fanatics thats cool just my two bits. UD.

OK , that sounds good. But with this lightweight valvetrain you don't need much spring pressure .  ;) 

one of these days jim. sometime this summer im sure.let me put my hillborn barrel valve system on. will have to see how streetible that set up is. will see . UD.

So if I understand this correctly, you could have chosen a 49-50 mm valve, and still make the same numbers and airspeed? And if it was a SS valve it would be the same weight (as the TI you are using), it would be cheaper, and lasted longer (more street miles).

I am not trying to be rude, but I am trying to find out secret behind choosing the 52mm valve...

Thanks
Roar

hello nto. i discoverd years ago when i use to use the flow bench on a regular basis that when you unshrowed the chamber intake side closest to cly wall to much you loose on the lower lifts 2/3/4. if you leave it choke up a bit like i have the lower lift cfm is there.( 52MM). dose this anwer your quistion.   UD.

Sorry UD  :), maybe I'm slow learner, but I guess this effect is possible to get with a smaller valve also? Just unshrowed less, and you choke on lower lift, but you will still be able to make the numbers/speed above 0.400?

Thanks
Roar

Picture of the exhaust....