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Author Topic: Cam sensor  (Read 16039 times)
Airspeed
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« Reply #30 on: February 27, 2011, 22:46:37 pm »

I have seen most of the injectors on the market. Even the best high impediance injector will only function down to 1-1.2 ms.
True, but it doesn't need to go that low, ie. under 1,3 ms: The flow has a linear decline towards those small pulse widths. Only as off 8 or 9ms do they flow steady state at the given lbs-rating of the injector, so you almost have a small and a big injector at once!
You sure you have also already used these late bosch-derived injectors? as you must have noticed this also?

Quote
My asperated engine uses 60psi injectors running at 80% duty cycle. I can barely get the injector to pulse at idle, around 1.3ms...
You probably meant 60lbs/min injector? What make/model is it?
I run high restistance ID1000cc's (also new style bosch) on a 2,2 engine with low static compression and even lower dynamic compression at 60psi fuel pressure at idle...and it idles super stable on pump gas at a decent AFR. I am also pretty sure I could use the FIC 1680cc's (the new style bosch) and have a stable idle on gas as well. Its just that they are so damn costly.

Quote
Would you guys like to have 4 egt inputs in a ecu? I can do it but the cost of the ecu will go up by about $75.00. This doesn't include the egt sensors.
I deff would! EGT tuning is usually telling a vital story when your tuning at the edge, maybe sometimes even more so then lambda imo.
Now I would have to buy an auxilary controlbox to log egt's. The ecu would then also have the ability to log the egt's, with a menu to choose logging parameters as you can't log and display everything of course (memory).
« Last Edit: February 27, 2011, 22:58:12 pm by Airspeed » Logged

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Big Power
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« Reply #31 on: February 27, 2011, 23:56:18 pm »

I run the Seimens 60lb per hour injector in my car. You are correct, egt's at each cylinder are IMO more important than Lambda. I will post some H-P numbers when I switch the ecu out to sequential. Being able to tune out a 100 degree difference in egt's hopefully will show a little more power.
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m.m.p
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« Reply #32 on: February 28, 2011, 01:54:01 am »

The new HIGH impedance injectors can now go down to 0.50 ms!!!! They are unreal, the control is on another planet!!! But that another story, for 99.999% of people a cam signal is not needed, I would recommend them to concentrate on tuning the engine better for cold start, getting the correct ignition timing, ect, ect than to mess with a cam sensor.
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drgouk
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« Reply #33 on: February 28, 2011, 06:06:59 am »

Some engines respond well to changing the injection timing, 
Thats not what is discussed here though... Its about changing timing and fuel on individual cylinders which is what sequential offers...
I'am with Marco on this one though: No offense, but I think 99% of the people here won't be able to get the benefits from that tuning ability full sequential offers, even if the system did ran perfect on their cars.
Pat is probably right though that it could give a benefit. However, the more the benefit you see, the more unequal your engine ran...so you need to ask yourself what is wrong with your engine (parts) if full sequential individuel tuning gave you substantial hp gains... Roll Eyes
I also ran it and i did give better mixture quality at idle, so I passed inspection (its a street car) without adjusting the maps at all, unlike the year before when I had to strangle fuel for CO-gas to pass.
Like Marco said: more things to go wrong and the hall-effect pick-up is very critical to plug wires, even when shielded, so now and then I did get a misfire from the cam-sensor and that was enough for me to return to (semi-)batch fire. No problems since  Wink


Never Had issue with rf with honeywell gt101 hall effect sensors on my autronic, they run close to spark plug leads without sheilding, .
Yes your right I was talking about injector firing angle and not individual cylinder triming of injection timing. You will see gains in getting your injection timing in the sweet spot, Its just part of tunning a sequentialy injected engine.
« Last Edit: February 28, 2011, 06:13:52 am by drgouk » Logged
Martin
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« Reply #34 on: February 28, 2011, 13:31:24 pm »

all very interesting stuff,

I tried both when i was running DTA, block fire and sequentially. only noticeable gains i found was around the idle.

But now I'm running AEM, it has to have a cam sync, otherwise it wont work. I got the signal from the end of the oil pump drive on my motor, as i may need to use the dizzy for somthing else.

You have to cam sync when your running Pectel / Life racing ecu's and the likes, as they treat each cylinder as an individual motor. mainly on the timing side, Unfortunately our motors are far too mechanically noisy to run such systems.


Think its going to be down to personal choice and the motor combo you want to run and its application and also the budget!
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Martin

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bedjo78
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« Reply #35 on: December 09, 2011, 09:28:36 am »

This is how I installed cam sensor in a WBX case. I suppose it could work for T1 case also. It is possible to adjust or change the sensor form the oil pump hole.

http://ub-52.blogspot.com/2010/01/blog-post.html

Tomi,

I Like your set up. But how did you locate the 5mm bolt on the cam gear?
I am new to EFI set up. but right now I am building Turbo EFI and looking for sequensial set up.
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Taylor
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« Reply #36 on: December 09, 2011, 10:12:57 am »

Its a sensor that tells the ECU when the motor is at TDC on number 1.  If it were me doing the same mod I would first drill the hole where I wanted the sensor to go. put a long bolt in the hole, degree the motor to TDC on number 1 and run the bolt down to mark the cam gear.  Then drill the gear

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Tomi
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« Reply #37 on: December 09, 2011, 11:34:15 am »

I did it exactly as Taylor described. You can adjust the position with the ecu to some degree, but I suppose it is better to get it mechanically as correct as possible. You should also find a position where it does not overlap with the rpm signal, I know some ECU's do not like that.
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bedjo78
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« Reply #38 on: December 10, 2011, 00:07:39 am »

Its a sensor that tells the ECU when the motor is at TDC on number 1.  If it were me doing the same mod I would first drill the hole where I wanted the sensor to go. put a long bolt in the hole, degree the motor to TDC on number 1 and run the bolt down to mark the cam gear.  Then drill the gear


I did it exactly as Taylor described. You can adjust the position with the ecu to some degree, but I suppose it is better to get it mechanically as correct as possible. You should also find a position where it does not overlap with the rpm signal, I know some ECU's do not like that.

Taylor, Tomi,

Now  i am with you.. Grin. a better set up other than having a modified dist.
I will do that way..cheers
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