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Author Topic: BIG type 4  (Read 13988 times)
Udo
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 2077



« Reply #30 on: March 01, 2013, 19:52:23 pm »

Here you can see what i do for making the heads stronger around the cylinder,welding on an extra fin . I do this on special orders most for 103 bore . We found out it works fine , and a set of my copper gaskets . For bores over 96 mm you need 6 head studs , but it is more work and more expensive than this

Udo
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fish
Full Member
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Posts: 224



« Reply #31 on: March 02, 2013, 08:57:20 am »

Udo, thats a s#*t load of work but definitely needed for the larger bore.
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Had a fight with a Magneto, it won!
steve_pugh
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Posts: 151



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« Reply #32 on: April 03, 2013, 10:18:08 am »

Why not use stock crank and rods, modified 1700 rockers, have everything balanced and run it.

I run stock crank and stock lightened rods 385hhp @ 13psi Wink

Michael

i like the idea of forced induction, but i also like simplicity of normally apsirated... BUT, any info on turboing a type4 welcome  Smiley
My current motor is 2056cc, 113bhp at the wheels, 15.3 1/4 mile @ santa pod in my van , but i want  MORE!! Cheesy

I only asked about big type 4s because of the stuff i got hold of.. big valve heads and 103 b+p's etc..

Whilst i am on about big stuff again, cheap being bad  Wink
Anyone used anything from DPR machine shop?

What's the spec on your 2056?    I have a 1911 which is a 1700 (W Code) base wtih 96mm pistons.   I dyno'd at 97HP but am led to believe that putting a 2ltr crank in will take me to 2056.   Just wondered what else you have in yours and which cam you used.    Is yours based on a 1700 also?  or do you have a CJ/CU style 2.0 as a base?
I'm at the same kinda point as you.   Do I turbo? (yes).. Do I add some Nitrous to get me moving till I can afford the Turbo and FI?  (Probably Yes..  Grin)   Do I put a bigger crank in and what will it do for my engine...   

Type 4 stuff is more expensive, but they just keep on going.   

My other option is to go WBX..
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Udo
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 2077



« Reply #33 on: April 03, 2013, 18:44:50 pm »

WBX aircooled is more expensive ...

Udo
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steve_pugh
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« Reply #34 on: April 04, 2013, 11:33:53 am »

WBX aircooled is more expensive ...

Udo

I was thinking WBX Water cooled.    or is it more or less the same?
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Udo
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 2077



« Reply #35 on: April 04, 2013, 17:33:14 pm »

That is cheaper. But who wants water for cooling in a beetle  Smiley   water is ok for wash wiper  Smiley

Udo
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Airspeed
Hero Member
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Posts: 593



« Reply #36 on: April 04, 2013, 21:27:11 pm »

That is cheaper. But who wants water for cooling in a beetle  Smiley   water is ok for wash wiper  Smiley

Udo
Now your making a lot of sense here Udo  Grin

Steve, if the 1911cc T4 runs well, just leave it as is and save up for the EFI change-over. That will be you biggest improvement in engine control. It won't make more power at that time, but you are then sooo well equipped for anything else, be it nos or turbo, it will make you giggle with anticipation for years to come.

Skip the NOS and go straight to turbo. Putting a turbo on an already EFI'd car is cheap then and easy-peasy and will double your hp instantly with very little effort.

Small steps mate, small steps  Wink
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"...these cars were preferred by the racers because the strut front suspension results in far superior handling than the regular torsion bar front end..."  - Keith Seume.
10.58 @ 130 mph (2/9/2022 Santa Pod)
Fast Eddie
Jr. Member
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Posts: 82



« Reply #37 on: April 05, 2013, 22:58:24 pm »

My 2056 started off as a pile of bits I collected for years.
But basically a 2 litre that I put 96 b+p on..
With 44×38 valve heads milldly ported by me.
Webcam 86b cam
 Lightened and balanced etc
45 dellortos
9~1  compression
A-1 extracter exhaust .
113bhp at the wheels and best 1/4 15.3 in my bus. Not bad I suppose!
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holmsen
Jr. Member
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Posts: 53



« Reply #38 on: April 09, 2013, 13:37:49 pm »

Mine is soon ready for the dyno.  106 x 82.  Smiley
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