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Author Topic: OE Fuel Pump rebuild  (Read 4784 times)
edcraig
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« on: December 23, 2011, 05:53:47 am »

So my idea with the motor in my Ghia was to give it a period correct look.  Actually, that's was the general direction with my car.  Fairly close to original in looks, but with the common modifications of that time, (early 70's).  Same with the motor.  Give it the look of original, but with the most common modifications.  That was one of the reasons I stuck with the Kadrons and going with a 010 Distributor.  I just recently cleaned up my 010 and located a original Pierberg Pump.  I rebuilt the pump this past weekend, and it works good.  Maybe too good.  My Kadrons didn't like it at all.  Way too much pressure.  I had carb gaskets leaking and carbs that were making some pretty odds sounds.  They really need a rebuild now and my buddy John Lazenby was good enough to offer me a couple of his rebuild kits.  I'll try this and a new regulator and see how it runs.  I kinda like to old style look with the Kadrons, but if I'm not happy with the results, it might be time to upgrade the carbs.

Ed

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Zach Gomulka
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« Reply #1 on: December 23, 2011, 06:05:15 am »

Looks great, Ed. The Kads are very particular when it comes to fuel pressure.
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richie
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« Reply #2 on: December 23, 2011, 06:51:42 am »

Ed,

You can reduce fuel pressure by stacking gaskets under the fuel pump,or by shortening the fuel pump push rod, a simple set up with a guage inline to see what pressure you have temporarily will help

cheers richie
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edcraig
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« Reply #3 on: December 23, 2011, 07:11:13 am »

Yep...I was considering both.  Any recommendations for a good in line pressure gauge?
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DKK Ted
DKK
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« Reply #4 on: December 23, 2011, 08:02:12 am »

Hey Ed, I'm using the Mooneyes one, have. 2 motors 1 on each, works perfect.        Ted
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John Palmer
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« Reply #5 on: December 23, 2011, 19:35:58 pm »

Just my experience, but the 0-15# fuel gauges made by Marshall in Anaheim, and labeled for many different companies (including Moon) have no accuracy  in our applications.  The first problem is we expect them to work well at very low readings of three to four pounds of pressure, when the gauge was made to work in the six to eight pound (mid) range.  We usually mount them to the regulator "T", and bolted to the firewall.  It gets really hot and the liquid filled gauge does not return to zero because of the internal pressure inside the filled gauge.  It actually helps to pull out the rubber plug and pour the glycerin filling out.  The only reason (just my opinion) to have one of these gauges is to see if it moves at all, showing you have some pressure in the fuel line.  They are not accurate in actually setting "the real" fuel pressure.  They will constantly change, mainly due to temperature.

Just tap into the fuel line and temporary install a REAL fuel pressure test gauge, and set you regulator, or adjust your pump (or rod) height (as Richie stated) and be done with it. 

 
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edcraig
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« Reply #6 on: December 24, 2011, 20:55:36 pm »

Thanks for the input guys!

...Ed.
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j-f
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« Reply #7 on: December 25, 2011, 15:05:23 pm »

I use a Filter king regulator on my Kads. Makes a huge difference. Engine idle more smoothly.
Really worth the money spend.
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edcraig
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« Reply #8 on: December 28, 2011, 05:39:24 am »

So my rebuilt german pump was putting out 6 1/2 lbs.  I passed on the regulator and shimmed the pump and shaved the pushrod and got it down to a little over 2 lbs.  It's idling much better now.  I probably still need to rebuild the carbs as they are far from perfect.  One carb still seems loud (louder) than the other right off from idle.  Its hard to describe, but doesn't seem correct to me.  Maybe its just time to switch to IDF's or the the EMPI versions.

....Ed

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deano
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« Reply #9 on: December 28, 2011, 19:06:38 pm »

Speaking of a stock fuel pump.... I had no idea they were this pricey! I recently found a used one and a kit to rebuild it... Total $30!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/320815886119?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
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johnl
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« Reply #10 on: December 28, 2011, 22:48:32 pm »

Speaking of a stock fuel pump.... I had no idea they were this pricey! I recently found a used one and a kit to rebuild it... Total $30!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/320815886119?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

Dean,  If you think this is pricey you should see the new Bosch prices I'm currently installing in our computer.  Blue Coils have increased about 33% and some of the stuff is through the roof.  I guess they feel the market will bear it, but sooner or later things have to lighten up.
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edcraig
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« Reply #11 on: December 29, 2011, 04:57:21 am »

Yeah Dean...I had no idea either.  I found a company that sells rebuilt versions for about $150.00.  Fortunately, I found a OE one out at the Pomona swap and just rebuilt it myself.  total cost was $50.00.  I like the look, so happy with the result.

Rebuilding the Solex/Kadrons now.  Thanks to John Lazenby for the assistance with the carb kits!

...Ed

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johnl
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« Reply #12 on: December 29, 2011, 05:04:49 am »

Yeah Dean...I had no idea either.  I found a company that sells rebuilt versions for about $150.00.  Fortunately, I found a OE one out at the Pomona swap and just rebuilt it myself.  total cost was $50.00.  I like the look, so happy with the result.

Rebuilding the Solex/Kadrons now.  Thanks to John Lazenby for the assistance with the carb kits!

...Ed

Famed DRA


And thanks to Ed for taking me to lunch today.  It was goooooooooooooooooood...   Smiley Smiley
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Volkswagens Limited, Der Kleiner Panzers Founder Member
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Life is a learning experience and then you die but when you do you've lived a good life if you contributed to your fellow man.
Sarge
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« Reply #13 on: December 29, 2011, 17:20:04 pm »


Yeah Dean...I had no idea either.  I found a company that sells rebuilt versions for about $150.00.  Fortunately, I found a OE one out at the Pomona swap and just rebuilt it myself.  total cost was $50.00.  I like the look, so happy with the result.

Rebuilding the Solex/Kadrons now.  Thanks to John Lazenby for the assistance with the carb kits!

...Ed

Famed DRA



I like stock fuel pumps a lot but that old model you chose to restore has a small flaw... the brass tubes that go in and out of the pump have been known to come loose
and cause engine fires.  Best to "stake" them or use a later model pump.
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TexasTom
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« Reply #14 on: December 29, 2011, 17:44:09 pm »

You are correct Sarge, but in my honest opinion, the 6-screw rebuildable pump was by far the best unit they ever made. And JEEZ, the new ones available are just Junk!  ... I've experienced MANY failures for my customers' cars over the past few years.
As for the brass inlets/outlets, as you said, easily fixed! I always 'check' them to see if they're loose at all, then peen them in place.

Hell, I like them so much I have a small collection Wink (imagine that! LOL)

I remember way back when my '67 was still a driver and I'd just completed one of it's 'reversions' ... this time I'd had the heads serviced by Fumio with 'a little extra  work' and swapped to Berg 42DCNFs. In my excitement I fired the engine with the fuel supply-to-carbs loose (bowls were full). That little pump shot fuel out the hanging hose 10-12 feet out the back of the car ... looked like a SPRINKLER!
That's why we know the stock pump can indeed supply enough fuel for near the hottest of street engine combos! Shocked

Looks GREAT ED!

TxT
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PIMPPRIDE
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« Reply #15 on: December 29, 2011, 19:44:40 pm »

I have a small stash of NOS 40HP type fuel pumps... all rebuildable type... free shipment applies to the continental US
 
Anthony / ISP WEST

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=690178
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edcraig
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« Reply #16 on: December 29, 2011, 23:45:41 pm »

Yep...I checked both the inlet and outlet and they are pretty tight.  I did have the current model Brosol pump which worked fine actually, but I think the cast Pierburg is a lot cooler looking.

...Ed
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