The Cal-look Lounge

Got one on order and have a few questions about it,

Can i fit in on to the framehead plate on the opposite side of the master cylinder or does it have to be mounted higher than the master cylinder on the bulkhead?

Also, I relise you need adaptors, but if i have my own brake pipes made up does anyone know the thread sizes for the hurst inlet/outlets (imperial?) and the thread size of the standard ends on a vw brake pipe (metric?) to avoid the adaptors

Any advice would be great.

Lee

Here's how mine is mounted...
(http://home.comcast.net/~mlawless29/chassis1.jpg)

The ports in the Hurst are 1/8"NPT. There are adapters available to mate the ports to 10mm bubble flare like stock, or to 3/16" inverted flare like US cars, or to #3 AN

Lee,

You can mount it anywhere (within reason of course!). I am not sure why you think it needs to be higher than the master cylinder?  ???

I ornignally mounted mine on the fram head the other side of the M/cylinder. I used the adapters with the VW brakelines. If you buy the brake pipe kit, there is enough in there to make the system up and looking good. Believe me, it is easier than getting your own 'bespoke' ones made up.

J.

The line lock comes with 1/8" NPT ports. Adapt as required...

Mike, have you got the brake bias adjuster fitted because your running drums on the rear?

Lee, you can get all the adapters from here..

www.speedflow.co.uk (http://www.speedflow.co.uk)

we got em ;D

http://www.vwheritage.com/ssp/Brakes/Brake-System-Parts/?srchPart=AC611999A

Yeah Steve, that's why I put it on, although I haven't messed with the adjustment yet. I have custom discs up front (my own manufacture) and type 3 drums out back. This year I had given some though to disc out back too, but I had just replaced my MC and had everything buttoned up. The calipers I was going to use were Wilwood four piston Dynalites, but I was concerned about the stock dual circuit MC having enough volume for that, so I decided to stick the the drums.

Every so often in a bracket race I need to stab the brakes pretty hard on top to ensure I'm not breaking out. When racing American cars that are substantially quicker, they can come up fast at the stripe, leaving little room for error. A couple of times I have done that and it upset the car a little when the fronts locked up. I put that on to minimize that. Since I was replumbing the entire brake system at the time, it was an easy add on that wasn't too expensive.

Thanks Mike! Do you think it's needed when running disks all round? I'm still undecided as to run one or not. RLR says he doesn't use them now (I'm running his brakes all round)

I'd say it would not be necessary with four corner discs. If the system is done and closed up, ready to run, then run it as is. But if you are still building the system and have not plumbed it, I say why not?

Thanks for all your advice guys.

Do I need to block one outlet in my master cylinder?

Lee

yes. I used a reversing light switch- works fine.  :)

Jonny, you are the man.

Im a complete numbty with this.

Could you give me an idiots guide to how you routed the brake pipes from the master cylinder to the ports (which ones) in the roll control?

Lee

Pretty simple. There are two "out" ports on the master cylinder. One gets plugged, the other goes to the "IN" port of the line lock. A Hurst has two or three out ports depending on when it was made. You use one "out" port of each front brake, and if there's a third, you can either plug it, plumb in a pressure gage, or put in a pressure switch to activate a light.

Here's how I did mine.  I do have a handfull of 10mmx1.0 allen plugs available here if anyone needs some.

(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a6/Hotrodvw/IMG_1477.jpg)
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a6/Hotrodvw/IMG_1478.jpg)
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a6/Hotrodvw/IMG_1481.jpg)

Update!

We have fitted the line lock, switch and warning light. It has all been wired in but havent done the brake pipes so no fluid in the unit.

We wanted to check the wiring was correct so we turned the ignition on, pressed and hold the switch, but get nothing. No warning ligh on, cant 'feel' the unit working. Is this normal?

Lee

No.......mine clicks on and off.

could be a ground problem.

i just took out my lijne lock as i still had moshy brakes. now the pedal is firm and the fronts lock up good and equal. so i am happy with the result and braking now. i still like to have a linelock, but safety first and now the brakes feel much safer and better.

so for now i keep on running two residual pressure valves on the front brakes and adjusted the back drums as close as they could go without constant drag.

i run talbot brakes up front and type3 drums in the back. i still believe a linelock can't make much difference because it is a closed circuit and the displaced volume off fluid stays the same, but it is not. maybe it is the linelock, maybe the setting off the drums.

Your experience with the line lock is a bit strange Nicolas, my pedal felt exactly the same after installing it, nice and firm.

it could be that the setup on the drums was not correct. but i can't tell for sure as i changed the pads at the rear at the same time i too out the linelock... so i am allready thing off refitting it, and hopefully you are right.

thanks

Theoretically your pedal should still be firm obviously.  That's weird.

it should be indeed the same... 

so here is a link to the post i did when i had the problem, hope it can help out others as well.

http://cal-look.no/lounge/index.php/topic,5178.0.html (http://cal-look.no/lounge/index.php/topic,5178.0.html)

UPDATE!

My Hurst switch (supplied in kit) was faulty. We replaced it with another switch and we now get a reassuring clunk of the solenoid ;D

Oh sweet!  Something so simple can cause such a head ache.   :P