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Author Topic: Single Webers.. Anyone run this set up?  (Read 14072 times)
plasticblack
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« on: May 09, 2013, 17:20:54 pm »

I'm in the planning stages of a pretty basic 1500/1600 engine and want to run a single Weber 40/44 Carb.

I'm thinking some very minor/basic headwork and possibly ratio rockers matched to a nicer cam?

That's it basically. I'm not any kind of engine builder/tuner as you can plainly see, but I'd very much like some opinions and experiences of anything similar to what I'm proposing.. 

All and any advice will be gratefully received.. Grin

The reason for the single carb is purely aesthetic..  Roll Eyes

Thanks Paul
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Lee.C
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« Reply #1 on: May 09, 2013, 19:06:00 pm »

How about a WEBER 40dcn - I ran this set up for 4years 100% trouble free  Smiley
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plasticblack
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« Reply #2 on: May 09, 2013, 19:20:33 pm »

How about a WEBER 40dcn - I ran this set up for 4years 100% trouble free  Smiley


I'd certainly consider that if all the additional items were available in good condition?

A new Weber/Empi HPMX Kit isn't too much cash, but I'm not sure a very good DCN Kit could be assembled for less?  Huh
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Lee.C
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« Reply #3 on: May 09, 2013, 19:32:52 pm »

Well I only mentioned it as I ran a DCN for a long time inc NORWAY and back - 100% fault free, Perfect idle, etc etc etc
(check this picture/thread for my set up)

http://cal-look.no/lounge/index.php/topic,6900.0.html

I resently brought a NOS/BOXED Weber 40dcn for my next manx but realisticlly I am not going to building this motor for a while and I could let it go - I also have a MASSIVE collection of spare/jets/parts etc etc

Trust me it will be a MILLION times better than that "empi" crap - I have messed around with one of those on a customers car and they are RUBBISH!  Smiley

Drop me a PM dude  Wink

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plasticblack
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« Reply #4 on: May 09, 2013, 20:25:16 pm »

PM sent.  Grin
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benlawrence
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« Reply #5 on: May 09, 2013, 20:42:40 pm »

I used to run a single weber 44 centrally mounted on my old 1914 back in 94, that was on a fairly mild motor, my fond memory of it was it was a bitch to start from cold, wether it was because the fuel had a long way to get to the cylinders i cant be sure,  but i know with duals it was always easy to start, when it was warmed up on the single it started up and drove and pulled just fine.
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Lee.C
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« Reply #6 on: May 09, 2013, 20:46:07 pm »

Mine was fine - Hot & Cold, From cold I just used to give 3 full pumps on the gas pedal and it would fire up and idle straight away

Also here is the picture of the linkage  Wink

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Lee.C
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« Reply #7 on: May 09, 2013, 20:47:17 pm »

I loved this set-up  Grin
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benlawrence
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« Reply #8 on: May 09, 2013, 21:04:08 pm »

both very cool  Smiley
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Zach Gomulka
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« Reply #9 on: May 10, 2013, 12:40:33 pm »

Zenith 32ndix.
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fish
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« Reply #10 on: May 10, 2013, 14:46:45 pm »

Recently sold 1835 running isolated manifold with 40 DRLA, stock ported heads, cb2234 cam, 009 dizzy. Ran real nice and smooth.

« Last Edit: May 10, 2013, 14:53:26 pm by fish » Logged

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plasticblack
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« Reply #11 on: May 10, 2013, 15:58:42 pm »

40 DRLA, stock ported heads, cb2234 cam, 009 dizzy. Ran real nice and smooth.

Looks more like what I have in mind.

Any issues with cold starting with this set up?
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Jim Ratto
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« Reply #12 on: May 10, 2013, 16:25:10 pm »

Back in the mid 80's when I ran a single 2bbl 36DRLA was manifold icing, which on cold nights, renderned the car literally undriveable. Make sure you have a way to get warmed air to air intake for cold part of the season. The preheat circuit off of exhaust header wasn't enough to keep mine from icing, in SF Bay Area.
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plasticblack
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« Reply #13 on: May 10, 2013, 17:53:36 pm »

From what several people are saying the single carb set up is prone to manifold icing (in a big way)..

This is good info and exactly the kind of experiences that I wanted to find out about.

It's not what I was hoping for as the single carb was my preference, but invaluable in making the right choice?

As I'm not planning a larger displacement motor (1600-1641) I had no visions of a dual carb set up. I'm not considering 34ICT's or similar as this would not be the look I'm after at all?

Some helpful folk have mentioned a single 40DCN's on a single manifold, but I not sure if such old carbs would prove reliable over time. Also the complete DCN set up leaves me close to a dual carb (IDF) price?

Am I best to forget the single carb idea and go dual instead?  Huh   
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Jim Ratto
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« Reply #14 on: May 10, 2013, 18:32:45 pm »

For stock displacement to 1641cc, with mild cam timing, my favorite setup has been Kadrons. With wilder cam timing, twin Weber IDF or Dellorto DRLA.When I was young and really green, not understanding how valve timing and intake design worked and clashed, I ran a long duration (256' @ .050/288' adv) with center 2bbl and it idled roughly and would die under 1300rpm. Once I had the money for the dual 2bbl, I went to dual 36DRLAs and the engine became silky smooth from 900rpm idle up. Read the Berg catalog in the cam section- similar experience.
when you say "nice" cam, it doesn't really communicate what you want/are looking for. There's a lot to consider if you're starting from scratch.
Good luck
« Last Edit: May 10, 2013, 18:43:49 pm by Jim Ratto » Logged
Torben Alstrup
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« Reply #15 on: May 10, 2013, 18:35:45 pm »

Why not just use a stock 34 mm PICT3 carb and be done with the hazzle. Then spend some of the "carb money" on a good cam for the combo. With a little attention to the heads and CR you will soon pull the same power and torque as with a centermount DCN or IDF and a stock cam. If not more.

T
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plasticblack
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« Reply #16 on: May 10, 2013, 18:44:23 pm »

Why not just use a stock 34 mm PICT3 carb... With a little attention to the heads and CR you will soon pull the same power and torque as with a centermount DCN or IDF and a stock cam. If not more.

Planned engine will be stock (crank) with possibly a slightly better cam..

 The look I'm after is with either the single Weber (40/44IDF) or going down the Dual Carb route (last resort)
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Donny B.
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« Reply #17 on: May 10, 2013, 19:58:31 pm »

Joel Mohr has adapted a single Kadron to the 1600 engine.  I saw it at Sacramento one year when his dad drove a Ghia with it.  If we could get him to chime in it might be worthwhile.  From what his dad said it worked great.  I have no idea what mods he made to make it work. 
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Don Bulitta
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plasticblack
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« Reply #18 on: May 10, 2013, 20:13:50 pm »

For stock displacement to 1641cc, with mild cam timing, my favorite setup has been Kadrons. With wilder cam timing, twin Weber IDF or Dellorto DRLA.When I was young and really green, not understanding how valve timing and intake design worked and clashed, I ran a long duration (256' @ .050/288' adv) with center 2bbl and it idled roughly and would die under 1300rpm. Once I had the money for the dual 2bbl, I went to dual 36DRLAs and the engine became silky smooth from 900rpm idle up. Read the Berg catalog in the cam section- similar experience.
when you say "nice" cam, it doesn't really communicate what you want/are looking for. There's a lot to consider if you're starting from scratch.
Good luck

Thanks Jim.. Not enough info on my part really Roll Eyes

By Nice Cam I was thinking about an Engle 110 which historically should suit a 1600-1641 well?

I'm thinking of 1.4:1 Ratio Rockers to go with the cam?

I'm not sure about Kadrons really.. certainly not what I'm looking for aesthetically in truth.
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Jim Ratto
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« Reply #19 on: May 10, 2013, 22:15:01 pm »

110 cam doesn't work with 1.4's
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plasticblack
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« Reply #20 on: May 11, 2013, 00:07:45 am »

110 cam doesn't work with 1.4's

Another plan foiled there then..... Am I best to just use 1.25: 1 on the standard cam  Huh

This isn't a 'all out power' engine obviously, but I'm trying (with my clearly limited knowledge) to keep things simple, reliable and hopefully within reasonable cost?

Once again over to you Guys....   Undecided
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Zach Gomulka
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« Reply #21 on: May 11, 2013, 01:54:42 am »

A stock cam will work with 1.25's or 1.4's, but a mild cam grind with stock rockers will be much cheaper and more beneficial than high lift rockers with a stock cam. You don't need to spend extra money and have a mild cam with high lift rockers for your application.

If I was in your shoes, I would build a 1600 with an Engle 100, around 8:1, cleaned up stock valve heads, standard header, 010, and a single Zenith. The Zenith runs phenomenally well.
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fish
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« Reply #22 on: May 11, 2013, 03:54:05 am »

Having built and run a number of single carb combinations the CB2234 with stock or even 1.25 rockers on stock heads with Dellorto has been the smoothest with loads of torque 2k-5k pull 8:1 comp. I would easily run this again in 1600 or better still 1776 if you wish to go bigger bore. Balance the rotating assembly and with the addition of more head and exhaust this engine will surprise you, however if you leave in cold morning climate you will need to heat the manifold, it's not so much icing up than de-atomising the fuel and dropping from suspended turbulence.
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plasticblack
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« Reply #23 on: May 11, 2013, 09:58:05 am »


If I was in your shoes, I would build a 1600 with an Engle 100, around 8:1, cleaned up stock valve heads, standard header, 010, and a single Zenith. The Zenith runs phenomenally well.
[/quote]

Sounds Good.. Wink

I like the sound of the Zenith, it certainly has  the 'look' that I hoping to achieve and there seem to be quite a few out there at the kind of prices I can afford  Grin
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youngnstudly
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« Reply #24 on: May 11, 2013, 20:23:55 pm »

I was planning to run a single Zenith NDIX carb on my single port until I located and purchased manifolds for the Kadrons. Art @ACE, Mr. Raby, and Jeff Denham all recommended the Zenith immediately when I mentioned that I wanted to run a single carb. It was the first carb of choice for each of them in regards to being smooth running and trouble free. I did much research on manifold heat and it seems that a very common fix for preheat is to move the left preheat tube on the header down to the collector so the manifold heat works like VW intended it to work (you must fab up some tubing and weld the flange to fit your intake). Another idea that Jake gave me was to run heat to the base of the air cleaner from each nipple on the later style heater boxes. I have always liked the idea of using a single carb due to ease of engine removal and install. Lets face it, adding dual carbs does complicate things more and I hate removing manifolds and carbs, then dealing with linkage, multiple fuel lines, etc....Especially when I'm trying to get the car back on the road quickly so I can drive it!   

Andy
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plasticblack
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« Reply #25 on: May 11, 2013, 20:50:20 pm »

More good advice/information.  Wink

The more I hear from people on hear about the Zenith, it really does seem that my best bet is to go that way?

As I said previously there seem to be a good number out there to choose from and the Zenith seems to meet all my requirements pretty much.

So that's the Carb sorted, now I just need to match the rest of build to what the Zenith can do.

I'm thinking just 1.25:1 Rockers, standard cam and some mild Head Work? I'm planning a custom exhaust set up which will be pretty much straight through?

any thoughts folks.......  Huh

 
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youngnstudly
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« Reply #26 on: May 11, 2013, 21:46:22 pm »

After reading this thread and posting, I just went and searched for a Zenith carb and was able to buy one from Joel Mohr. I would like to make my own manifold if I could get the materials I'm missing  (I have some of the materials needed).  I have a 1700cc single port that is nearly stock with Kadrons, but I want to run those on my performance 1915cc single port. One thing to consider is that the Zenith NIDX will need a modified manifold and/or a custom throttle tube inside the fan shroud in order for the throttle cable to line up and work correctly. Otherwise you need to remove the oil cooler from the shroud and run it remotely.

For what it's worth, I spent over an hour talking to Jake Raby about building my high performance 1915cc single port, and he recommended the NDIX even with all the other mods I am going to run. The heads are Jeff Denham 37x35.5 ported heads, DPR CW crank, Webcam 218/119, 1-1/2" merged header, etc. He never said it would have a smooth or low idle, but he mentioned that the carb would be smooth and perform well otherwise. I am going to run my Kadrons instead on that one since the idle of a single carb would be too high and erratic, but I think you could make it work with a modified engine. My 1700 has the stock cam, slightly ported heads, 1.25 rockers, and a 1-3/8" header, so a Zenith should work out just fine.
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plasticblack
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« Reply #27 on: May 11, 2013, 22:12:41 pm »

One thing to consider is that the Zenith NIDX will need a modified manifold and/or a custom throttle tube inside the fan shroud in order for the throttle cable to line up and work correctly. Otherwise you need to remove the oil cooler from the shroud and run it remotely.

He mentioned that the carb would be smooth and perform well..
[/quote]

I'm sold on the Zenith now and am on the hunt already. I've seen a nice looking set up on the Samba, which might suit.

Some more info on the Acc Cable would be of great help. I have no plans to change the oil system so will need some guidance please..  Smiley
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Zach Gomulka
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« Reply #28 on: May 12, 2013, 05:32:52 am »

I used the stock throttle cable, etc on my Zenith and it worked fine. It wasn't absolutely perfect in regards to angle but it did the job, got full throttle, didn't hang up, and so on.

A mild cam costs less and will make more power than a stock cam with ratio rockers.
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plasticblack
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« Reply #29 on: May 12, 2013, 09:58:14 am »

I used the stock throttle cable, etc on my Zenith and it worked fine. It wasn't absolutely perfect in regards to angle but it did the job, got full throttle, didn't hang up, and so on.

A mild cam costs less and will make more power than a stock cam with ratio rockers.

Thanks for that Zach. Wink

I'm glad to hear that the Acc Cable isn't a major issue and I'll enjoy fiddling with that to get it as I require..

What do you think Engle 110/120?? Matched to some simple Head Port/Polishing?
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