The Cal-look Lounge

Well guys as a few of you will know I am working on a nice little project at the moment for a customer:
http://cal-look.no/lounge/index.php/topic,7573.0.html

The Chassis is a late type balljoint front end with CB dropped spindles and a 2" narrowed/adjustable beam with IRS rear end, There is also a "bolt in" type Rear truss bar (shock towers/frame horns) which is also fully adjustable,

Now I have a FULL rolling pan so my question is:

How do I set up ALL the chassis geoometry  ??? ie Tracking, Camber, caster, rear axle/A arm alinement ???

One thing I was really surprised about was the amount of movement/deflection when adjusting the rear truss bar  :o

I don't think you can do that if you don't have a full weight car at the correct ride height...

Hey it lee here (signed in on a friends pc)

I was thinking the same thing but I was hoping to get some info on the adjustment/pre-load on the rear truss bar  :-\

You can get ALOT of movement in the shock towers and framehorns when adjusting the 3 bars,

I was also hoping to get some info adjustment/alinement process of the springplates/A arms :-\

Any input would be great guys  :)

Any thoughts guys :-\

You don't need to pre-load anything.  Doing so accomplishes nothing.

Ok thanks Bruce BUT still not much "info" on adjustment/settings, Maybe some of the Racers can help :-\

Lee,

I've set up my rear torsionbars with an angle finder and a workshop manual.
There are specific angles the spring plates were set from factory depending on year and model. The differents between inner and outer splines on all torsion bars are 8 degree 10' to 9 degrees so you can change he angles in increments of 50' (60' = 1 Degree)
After i put the IRS in mine i started at stock pre 74 model IRS measurements as i'm using all parts from the donor, but as its lighter I took 1 degree 30' off the original 20 degree something for starters which was to high and ended up on 16 degree 30' or something on Passenger side and 17 degrees on drivers side to compensate for my weight. I think the car sits just right.
Both big washers on the 17mm IRS arm Allenbolt are fitted towards the outside of the car, the rest i just eyed up and it still runs nice and straight even after the 1/4 mile at 107mph at Shakeys run off area.
I never touched the front camber since i had it and set the toe slightly in as per original, but you can't really do it until you got all weight in.
I will just get it 4 wheel aligned in the winter but only to see if it's even. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

Oh the other thing, put a new steeringbox on, for the £65.00 they cost it's not worth fucking around with even slightly sloppy steering which won't help setting up

Frank

i always thought that as a drag car digs in at the back you need to compensate for the loss of front camber.  So i was advised to set the front camber with the car rasied so that the wheels are vertical in this position.  Not useful for general driving but should help keep the car straight ion the track.

hmmmm all very interesting - keep the info coming guys  :)

The front only lifts at launch. If it lifts during the run you got aerodynamic issues with keeping the car on the track.

I think i'm gonna listen to the guys with DRIVING cars  ;)

Lets have more info guys  :)

 :D :D :D

read this: http://www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resource/articles/dragsetup.htm

and this: http://www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resource/articles/handling.htm

Thanks dude but it not really for "Drag racing" it for a street car - balljoint front (with dropped spindles)IRS rear,

Some usefull info though  :)