The Cal-look Lounge

hallo,

i'm planning to replace the 1776 in my '67 with a 2110 engine.
the parts i have all ready are a pair of 48 IDA's and a pair of ported heads bored to 90,5 with 42/37,5 valves and a MSD.
other parts that i think to buy all ready are a 82 mm crank, FK-87 cam,1.4 rockers(don't know wich brand yet).
so any suggestions on other parts or thoughts and maybe jet setting for the IDA's.

henk!!!

Sounds like a nice "standard" combination that shouldn't give too much trouble. I'm guessing that the heads are already bored to 90.5 - how about using 92's and going for a 2180?

yes heads are al ready bored to 90,5 bought them to put on my 1776.
but tought it would be better to build a new engine with them.

henk!!!

What Heads are you using? who Ported them and how big are the Ports?

ported by the ottobros with 42/37,5 valves,double valvesprings,titanium retainers

henk!!!

I would suggest Pauter rockers because they have less friction. They have needle bearings at the rocker shaft and roller tips.

Hi, why the FK87 camshaft? Do you have close ratio gear stack? What compression ratio are you targeting?

hallo,

i know the fk87 is gonna be a bit wild for street use but i don't really mind that,maybe beter to sprint,no?what cam do you suggest.
no close ratio yet,for the moment still the '67 stock gear box.
i think somewhere between 9 and 9,5.

henk!!!

Stay with 90.5 and use the 82 crank.then fK8, 9/1 compression,CB or Scat 1.4 rockers,1 5/8 header would be my suggestion with stock gears,should see mid 13s on regular treaded tyres with some practice :)

cheers richie,uk

thanks all ready for the idea's,with 13s i should be happy.
any idea's for the jetting on the IDA's?

henk!!!

37mm venturi should get you to 6500rpm.
60idle (start with 120 air hole)
155 main
F2 tube
175 air

thanks a lot.
why do you guys think the fk87 isn't that good to use for me?

henk!!!

If you want more cam than a FK8, take the WEB 86C then. It pulls about the same lower end torque as the fk8 but much more upper end. You will need more CR though. I usually set it up with 10-1 at 95 octane and 11 - 1 at 98 octane. The power(band) depends heavily on your heads. So it is kinda difficult to predict where and when it will deliver max.

I like the CB rockers. Very rigid design and easy to set the geomtry on.
T

hallo,

still busy collecting parts for my 2110.
i'm looking for a case at the moment,but don(t know to much about them.
i can buy these one,it's a new brazil AS41 is it any good for a 2110 build?

henk!!!

Bore the heads to 92 and go 2180.. and fore sure dont worry about the FK 87 being too big or wild for road use. You will have to bump the comp up a bit to make the 87 work but it will be a flyer. My 2276 runs 11/1 comp with the FK87 and it pulls fine low down in 4th gear. Autocraft rockers are good but Pauter better but they will bite a hole in ur pocket.
Another route would be Engle w130 cam. I used to run a 2180 with small vales heads but ported well, with dellorto 45 carbs and it was a flyer and loved to rev high. I ran a 14dead on the 1/4 with stock ratio box.

Have fun.

I have a 2110 in my '68 Beetle.  Combo is similar to what you are collecting parts to build.  My engine is -VW Mag case,
82 X 90.5 , Porsche length rods- CB 044 / Berg 870 style ported 42 X 37.5 heads with Berg ported intakes, 48 IDA carburetors 37 mm venturis. Berg K10 style cam, Berg dual valve springs, Berg 1:45:1 rockers. 1 5/8 header, Stinger S-4 ignition.  Compression set at 8:25:1 (93 Octance pump gas).  This engine is nice to drive in traffic and on the freeway - stock gear ratios.  Not a tempermental pain in the a$$.  From seat of the pants feel, It seems to stop pulling between 7000 to 7500 rpm.  In my opinion a great street engine. 

thanks guys,for the combo's and suggestions.
but how about that case in the pic,do you think it is a good base to start with.

henk!!!

hallo,

we did start slowly on my new 2110 engine.
these are the parts that i have no:

-new 48 IDA's
-new auto linea case,bored for 90.5 and full flow,...
-82mm scat crank
-scat 5,4 H-beam rods
-mahle piston and cilinders
-scat 1.4 rockers and valve covers
-engle FK 10
-scat staight cut gears
-extra oil sump
-42/37,5 heads from ottobros
-manton pushrods
-fast fab push rod tubes
-flywheel and kennedy clutch
-shadeck oil pump
-1 5/8 header
-empi 5 1/2lbs Crankshaft Pulley
-msd 6T and soft touch rev (no distibutor yet)


for lifters i think i will go for the ones from CB performence 28mm.
also i got my crankshaft pulley before i bought the case,and now we see that the case is cut for a sand seal.
sombody who know how far we have to machine the pulley down so i can use it for the machined sand seal case?

henk!!!

small update.
we had the deck height set at 1.45mm and the heads have 57cc.
so that will be a compression ratio off 9.0-1.
next is getting the pistons at the same weight and remove the rocker studs with the scat ones.

henk!!!

The K8 is a great cam for the street. Use it.  Not sure why the suggestion for F2 emulsions.....I have f11s and they have always worked well on the street.

RM

I would put the CR more towards 10:1.

that is where we are with the 1,45mm deck height.
even if we should get it to 1mm,i still only get 9,3-1 compression.

henk!!!

we started the engine up yesterday and it didn't ended very well.
he fired right up and was running good until 10 min or so when there was more noise.
we checked the valves clearences and there was a big gap between the valve and rocker on the cilinder #4.
result:two lifters gone on the first start up,so cam wil be trash as well i geuss. :(

henk!!!

Are you sure it isn't the pushrod tips failing? There has been a spate of cheap pushrods where the tips aren't hardened correctly. They wear out in minutes, giving big clearances between valve tip and rocker.
A cam going flat won't give the clearance you are describing between valve tip and rocker when the cam is 'off' the 'ramp'.
The best way to determine whether a cam is going flat is to put a dial indicator on the retainer and turn the motor over by hand to read 'full' lift. A cam issue will quickly show as a loss of lift.   ;)

It could also be the the pushrod cup of the lifter failing...

hallo,

thanks for help thinking what could be wrong,can use al the help to prevent it happens again.
the pushrod tips looks great,seems nothing wrong with them.
yes i know you check the valve clearence on "the back" of the ramp of the cam.
but i think in my case the lifters went first and that trashed the cam.
the 2 lifters are really bad,the wide part that is touching the cam is gone.
i post some pictures of the parts toninght so you can see.

henk!!!

the engine is apart again here can you see the remainings of the lifters.
these are from cilinder 2 and 4.
the cam has some minor damadga as well but will be replaced as well.
the other lifters and the rest of the cam looked real good.

henk!!!

Was the cam lobe riding on the edge of the lifter on every revolution?

2

What kind of lifters did you use?  I have had issues with 3 cams going flat and the lifters pitting very badly do I am now running Udo Becker tool steel lifters.  So far so good.

You should probably replace the bearings as well.  with all that grit flowing in the oil it would be cheap insurance against future problems.

@Erlend / bug66:everything looked ok when we turned it over.
@Donny B.:these are from CB performance,i gonna buy Udo lifters now as well.
   don't think there was alot of grit flowing around,on the bottom of the case laid all bigger pieces of metal.

henk!!!

Why didn't you use this case ? Looks very nice , one of the older ones that have no issues.  
I would check the case too - never saw a lifter like that - also check lifter to lobe clearance at full lift

Udo

i bought a autolinea case then bored at 90,5,cleared,and ready for full flow for the same price as that standard case.
we sure gonna check everything again.

henk!!!

my friend measurd everything today and this is what he came up with.
do you guys think that the coil bind is OK or should i get more?
if so how can i get more if needed,we shaved 2mm of the valve guides all ready and we installed the vw650 springs from CB performance.


Full lift @the valve 14,5mm(0.570)...... scat 1,48 rockers

Retainer to guide clearance @full lift 1.5mm(0.059)

lifter to bore clearance @ full lift 2mm(0.078)

coilbind @full lift 1.9mm(0.074)


henk!!!

I would change the rockers to cb or bugpack. You can not be shure all have the same lift,different ratios
Udo

When you measure full lift are you doing it with the vw650 springs in place? or a checking soft spring? and is that last measurement


coilbind @full lift 1.9mm(0.074)


the clearance you have at full lift?


I totally disagree with Udo on swapping the rockers,the only ones I have ever seen with a big variation from rocker to rocker were CB,but you should check all 8 valves/springs for coilbind to be 100% sure

cheers richie

hallo Richie,

yes that was with both the springs in place.
and indeed that is the clearence at full lift.

henk!!!