The Cal-look Lounge

 There are many ways to do this, But this is how I do It. First picture of hole, 2nd open hole to even shape, Then take flat peice for patch, that I slightly hammered some shape into. Then lay behind hole and scribe. After, cut to scribe line and file to fit, I like them to be tight. then tack

Now that its tacked, I weld. I am useing a tig torch and .027 rod at about 45 amps. After welding I take cut off wheel on die grinder and lightly grind weld and ONLY the weld on both sides. Now I slightly hammer, To stretch and get some shape back into the area. Once done I regrind with a flat grinder till weld is flat. Now time to hammer and dolly till metal finished and can be filed flat. I hope this helps anybody getting started.

O-YA 4-5 coats of DTM primer and block with 80 grit and Its ready for paint prep.

Nice work Danny!

So... you got something against Bondo :D :D

~DR

Thanks dave, I hate wearing partical mask.

You're an artist Danny!  You sure set the bar up high. 
(oh shoot, I just said bar and high to a DEEK... )

Well I guess that will work if that's the best you can do

 :D

Excellent work!

good is good,
good enough, isn't

HEY.. AT LEAST HE'S WORKING.. ;D

Sorry Mark, I spent more time in auto shop than I did in english-grammer. Here is a few more pictures. Shot of the other fender and the back side. A couple of my 67 with a couple coats of primer

You know how vampires react to garlic, same reaction with Danny and plastic filler

Danny that is so cool that you can work metal like that, wish I had the tallents to do that kind of stuff!!! :o

Cool tips Danny, it makes a lot of sense to cut out the openings first to eliminate those quirky notchs. How did you cut the holes so smoothly and keep it flat?
I suppose the TIG was used to keep the heat and warpage to a minimum, but any tips for the average MIG user?
Next, it would be nice if you could post a similar thread on filling those useless pea-shooter outlets I see on so many "Cal-Looks". Do you cut those out first too to even the shape and panel?
Thanks for the help, Bruce
 

                                                              Check your spelling, Chicky-Baby!

What the hell is this...metal-molesting 101? Don't make me come up to Bunny Ranch Fab and show you how to do it Danny! Why don't you use some of that talent on that bad ass 60' Ghia that is in your shop!!! BY THE WAY- nice work!  ;D ;D ;D

 ;D

I just keep coming back to this thread, take another look and another and another...... :D

Hi, and some where in hot vws mag, I did a artical on filling the pee shooter holes on the rear apron. On cutting the horn grille hole , I used a carbid cutter in a die grinder and finished with a med half round file. As far as welding sheetmetal with a mig. Use the smallest wire you can get, Turn the heat up and try to make seperate puddles. Or make a puddle then let off trigger, Then while its still red hot do another. In stead of pulling trigger and holding wide open the entire weld. And practice . before you start on your project. Playing with amps and wire speed helps. and if you are haveing problems blowing holes , You can back up the weld with copper sheet. This is why I like tig welding, Less trouble.

Thanks for sharing your knowledges Danny  ;)

It's very helpful.

I use 0.8mm wire for my mig. I will try some 0.6 as you advice.

One other thing, before you start hammering. Grind the welds till ther the same thickness as the fender. I start with cut off wheel on die grinder and just shave the weld down. And ONLY the weld. After weld build up is gone on both sides, Then lightly hammer the weld to get some shape back in panel. Then I take a new 36 grit dish on 90 degree angle grinder and finish grinding weld, Stop grinding when weld disappears. Then take a file and lightly file till you can see all your high and lows and hammer till its straight. Grinders dont staighten panels so be ez on the grinding