The Cal-look Lounge

I was wondering what kind of exhaust gaskets you used with success?

I hate having to yank the header off to replace a gasket (wasted a few hours today and the hi temp orange rtv always gets over everything-esp when the tube outlet dries up and you have to cut the tube open to get to fresh rtv).

I have used stock, vanagon, copper and high temp rtv, but eventually a leak will occur over time.  I was thinking today that it probably has something to do with the small exhaust nuts loosening up over time which allows some movement.

Thanks for any advice.

I still like the stock Vanagon gaskets.  One thing I do is take the 8mm head washers (the thick ones) and grind them to fit on the exhaust studs.  I use the 3/8 by 8mm nuts that you can get from the Bergs and also advertised on the Samba.  I use a little blue loctite on the threads.  That works for me.  I have used the copper gaskets without success.  They don't compress enough.

I'm using the Vanagon gaskets also.

When using the Vanagon gaskets which side faces the head the metal side of the gasket or the fiber side?  I always forget.

I put the metal since it's a machined surface.

I haven't had a problem using Bugpack copper gaskets.

I've used copper RTV since 1990 without a leak caused by it. I use 12mm BMW exh nuts since 2000, no leaks. I was using brass 12mm before that and had them back off occasionally.

The more I think about it the more I think it is my mounting hardware.

Jim-what are those BMW exhaust nuts-are they copper ones with 12mm wrench 8x1.25mm?

What kind of washers do you use?  I see Don posted that he uses a flat washer.  Do you guys use spring washers, lock washers or star washers or are the exhaust nuts serrated on the bottom so they do not back off during heating and cooling cycles?

I'm using the same, but with the older harden flanged nuts that Berg USE to sell. They have a 10mm hex, works very well and don't strip.

Ted

A kick to this topic :).

What are the vanagon gaskets everyone is talking about? My A1 1 3/4" lowdown header seems to leak a bit. Also where can I get the gasket between the header and muffler?

Gary Berg sells this version, good quality
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1252633
3 bolt gasket, CB has a few

Thanks, but these are only 1.4 inch and not 1.75. What is everyone using with the larger headers?

I use the Vanagon gaskets between the header and the head.  For the muffler to the header I use the CB Performance graphite compression gaskets.

http://www.cbperformance.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=115

One thing that is overlooked is header fit.  If your motor is a little narrow the header will leak.  The new CB gaskets are pretty forgiving and will take up a little misalignment.   I use 8mm flat washers and steel nuts with a 12mm wrench.

I use the CB carbon gaskets they are quite nice. 

RTV and stainless nuts. Brass nuts have a bigger thermal expansion rate than steel, so get loose with heat. Stainless has a lower expansion rate, so get tighter when hot (tighter onto the steel stud they are threaded on to).
RTV works very well when you let it sit overnight to skim over (....and make an O'ring effect) before tightening down.
Used it on bikes for years, and they expand and vibrate/resonate a lot more than VW's.

No gaskets, Ultra copper sealant only.  Dave Rhoads

I agree. 82 stroke with VW-length rods and no spacers will create a narrower-than-most engine combination. Fits nicely into the engine compartment and tins fits, but I noticed some of my exhaust flanges were leaking... The problem was the slip joints were actually bottoming out, causing the J-tubes to not sit flat on the heads. I shortened the pipes that slipped into the sleeve about 1/4-inch, and solved the problem. Tough to visually catch.

Same as Dave Rhoads, I use copper high temp only, never have leaks ever.

totally agree with jason the cb compression gaskets are the best,my berg ones went fast on my new motor and the cb's have held strong ever since installed

Ditto.  I also use anti sieze on the threads.  With my tiny 1 5/8" header I can use a thin wall deep socket on all but two of the nuts to get them really tight.  Without the washer, the the small contact area of the nut will deform the flange instead of clamping it tightly.