The Cal-look Lounge

Hello all ACVW specialists!

Me and another member have been shooting some PM´s on a third Polish guy and his engine problems.
So I thought I would just ask a larger group of people for good suggestions.

Frallan


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Help, please! 

My clubmate has a freshly built 94x78.8/42x37 044/FK10+1.4 (biggest enginge in town so far) and he has serious heat problems... The project is in the works for so long, that he's loosing the faith.
And the worst thing would be to loose a clubmate moving to different hobby... We are already so few here in Poland

Engine after a few miles is going hot - 110 degrees Celsius.
The fan shroud is a modified 1600 doghouse type, so no problem with crappy aftermarket shrouds. No auxiliary cooler yet though...
Is it possible, that poorly ported heads make the engine go hot?
We'll try everything - the thermotec tape will be installed this weekend....

What would you suggest?

Kind Regards,

R

Hello


Anyway, if you have such  serious problem it is not going to help with marginal things like thermowrap on the exhaust.
This sounds like a fundamental ignition or fueling problem.
Probbaly ignition curve that is totally wrong.
Some popel migt say too high compression but if done right, I doubt that.

You know, even if frafetched it could be details like piston cylinder play. It could be a cylinder ring that is not having enough play.
My firts bet would be to try check the full ignition curve.
8-10 degrees initial and max 30-32 at around 3000 and above.
It is summer so  good oil cooler is never wrong but it should not be too much of a problem for cruising and not that you wrote it , but I understand the problem is larger and happens quickly?

Why do you not also post a thread on it ?

Good luck,
Fredrik Frallan



Thank you for quick reply, Fredrik!
Sorry about tha Jim stuff...  It's so damn hot in here and my head should be in the fridge to work properly...

The ignition is retarded to 28 deg @3K and AFR reading vary from 10.8 to 12.5 at the moment.
The oil cooler is on the way. The tricky thing is that he had a little drive in the evening too in the 18 deg temperature outside...
I cannot think of anything else.
Maybe the oil release valve springs should be stronger then stock? The oil pump is a 30 schadek + Full flo system.
Or the 'venturi' leading air to the fan...

Kind Regards,

R

PS: Well, To be honest I did not put much thought in it, I've just wrote a PM to somone I trust.
But maybe really a thread is a good idea...




Yes, list down everything you know just like you have for me.
Facts and what you have tried and not tried.
Clear symptom description when the problem appears and after how long driving in what kind of environment.
The better you decribe it, the more professional answer will be given.

If it is as bad as you say and what you have tried, it is not a simple adjustment.
Oil pressure relief spring will not cause the engien to go in to serious overheating.
Are you just looking at oil temp or do you have some other way like cyl head temp?
FR


I've got a info about specification of the engine:

discplacement: 94mahle x 78,4CB,
rods 5,4" CB super race rods (h-beam),
heads 044 CB 42x37,5,
cam Engle FK10 + straight cut gears, rockers 1,4:1,
sump CB 2QT,
oil pump 30mm shadeck + pump cover with vlave VWSPEEDSHOP

Engine is getting 110 degrees celsius afhter a few miles drive. It's all I know for now....
The oil temp sender is testeted in boiling water and works okay.

can't make it up on the info, but where is the temp.meter located?

And/Or maybe a stuck relieve valve is an option.. or wrong spring/screw there.

Oh yeah, some oil coolers have 2 plastic round caps in the bottom for sealing, maybe he forgot to remove those, they are easely overseen!

How can 2.5L (min. 2.5L) of oil reach 110degrees celcious in a few miles??

Somethings not right here....  :-\

What's the compression ratio?

Like I wrote earlier somewhere, the only time I have seen an engine build temperature that fast has been when the middle large main bearing had gone south. so provided that ignition and fuel is correct, that is my bet.
- Even a totally clogged supply for the cooler wohnt heat the oil that much in a couple of miles, unless you have nailed the gas pedal to the floor.
T

Just how many miles is "a few miles"?

What oil is he using?

If you re-used a used, possibly high mileage stock oil cooler it may be clogged up from prior use and neglect.

YOu would check the front relief valve spring as with big oil pump the spring pressure is too low to alow the oil routing to the oil cooler,just try to put washer between the plug and srping or use the device allowing to mod the spring tension sold everywhere.That's the first time thing to do after look around the max advance and carb jetting.
I found that trouble on engine running the only original oil cooler with no added extra mesa cooler
But the worst is that it can be on the main  bearing .I found recently problem with the radius on the cranks wich are different comparing to  those on the bearing >:( ;You think that all fit pefecly as the crank rotate freely but but they can't handle the end play of the crank all the way.Hope it's not your problem as you need to a total deasassembly of the engine
hope all of this will help you
cheer
 JR

Thanks everyone for pitching in.
I hope now that this does help the original owner of the problem and then that we all get some feedback to the root problem, once it was solved.
Seem we all agree with the information we have that this is not a simple issue, if it heats up that quick.

If all obvious outside problems have been taken care off, next step is unfortunately to tear it down for detailed follow up.
To drive it, even if short runs without solving, will just end up in worse problems.

Feedback on help is key to good partnership and drives us to learn.
Lets see if we all can learn from this?

Speaking of hot ::)  http://www.metacafe.com/watch/1213928/girls_developers_motorsports_hot_pants/
 ;D

Thanks, guys for great feedback!

Actually I got info from the owner of the engine, that the bad syptoms suddendly stopped...
They checked te spring valves in the case - which seemed okay (meaning not stuck), assembled it back again and after a 40km ride the readings are totally OK. Oil temp ~90 deg. Celsius and good oil pressure.

:o

So they were stuck.

Sounds like it.