The Cal-look Lounge

From here on out, I will try and keep my inquiries on tech stuff within this thread, so perhaps someone else out there can benefit from the same help and assistance that I've received so far. ;D 

I'm basically down to checking for cam gear to oil pump clearance in terms of checking clearances in the bottom end, as just about everything else is wrapped up (stroker crank clearance, cam to lifter, etc. etc).

I figured I'd get a jump on the top end end of things, as while I have done valvetrain geometry before, I've never checked for piston to valve clearance.  I've read up in the Berg blue book about using clay for this purpose and understand the process.  Are most folks operating off of Gene's tolerances for clerances on engines turning over 6K RPMs?  It seemed like it was .100 inch on the intake and .125 on the exhaust side, don't remember off the top of my head.
In the event there's  insufficient clearance, do I need to have the pistons notched?

which cam and rockers are you running?

Engle 125 with CB Performance 1.25 ratio rockers.

you're working on same stuff I just played with last Saturday, I mock up motor partially and take care of a few steps at one time at this stage... note no assembly is going on at this point. I mock up crank/cam/case/#1 cylinder & piston/known degree wheel. From there I check TDC indicated vs true TDC, check cam advance/timing, lock cam gear in position, check lobe lift, check duration @ .050 then again @ .020. The lobe center method is an easy way to see where your cam is. Then I bolt head on assembled with both intake/exh valves for # 1 but with light springs. From there I check valve to piston with clay, like you mentioned. I think the specs in blue book are right on, unless you're blessed with Type 4 center main crank, Carrillos, ti valves, etc. (my 911 Porsche guy runs as little @ .065"!!!). You don't want to base your geometry checks on light springs, same with spring height, because you'll find you lift .025" or so more with lights than with your good dual springs. I check every valve for true full lift after making a real pushrod (using an adjustable one for this against real springs will yield you a pretzel).

Thanks for the info... it has yielded me additional questions ;D

How do you set up your dial indicator for degreeing the cam?  Berg book says to set up a dummy lifter in the pushrod tube hole to use a dial indicator on, but doesn't really elaborate on how to do it.  Just curious as to the best way to do it.

Next question: if I can't check geometry with the adjustable tool in place, how do I do it?  Do I use a light spring to check geometry and then make a pushrod once I determine the needed pushrod length using the light spring?  And where can I get a properly sized light spring?

Another question: what is the mandated ring gap spec for 90.5mm pistons?

I use a sawed off stock pushrod with a 1/4x28 bolt screwed into the cut end. The head of the bolt is the flat spot for indicator.
Geometry is different than setting up pushrod length. Get your lift reading using adjustable p/rod and light springs. leave light springs in, open valve 50% by hand (on motor or on bench) see which way rocker assy needs to go (up away from head? Or need taller lash caps [same as moving rocker down into head]?) then finalize where rockers need to be (or lash cap height) then assemble heads with real springs, "fill in void" between lifter and rocker with adjustbale p/rod, cut your real p/rods to length and assemble then check full lift against real springs and w/ real p/rods. Adjust installed height accordingly, check for coil bind...etc etc etc.
yes it takes hours.

Last engine I built had single HD springs... setting up geometry and determining pushrod length was a lot easier, but I've been down that road before.  Are these lite springs available through automotive specialty shops; if so, any you recommend in particular?
What am I looking for in coil bind, I've seen a figure of .050" floating about?  Also how about retainer to guide clearance, what's the number I'm looking for there?

Any tips on how to separate an eight-dowelled flywheel?  I've seen a tool available for rent through aircooled.net, just checking as I don't want to bugger up my dowel pins or dowel pin holes on the flywheel during assembly.

Anyone? Bueller?

Put the flywheel on the ground, crank sticking up. Wiggle the nose of the crank back and forth with your feet on the flywheel until it works loose. I saw Jose at DRP do it, so it must be the way! :D

I'll take your word for it, as that's who I bought my crank from! Lol ;D 

I guess it wouldn't be the end of the world to fork out $20 to rent the RLR tool from aircooled.net, I just worrry I would need it longer than 20 days, given the way things generally run in my garage. Lol!

I wouldn't remove an 8pin flywheel from a crank like that. I pull straight back, not wiggle. You can thread gland nut in partially, turn crank up pulley end up, set gland nut on upside down socket and lightly strike flywheel near center with rubber mallet. Wiggling it will (eventually) loosen dowels in holes of flywheel- not good.

Just goes to show that there's no such thing as being too attentive to detail.  I won't take credit for discovering this discrepancy, as it was VW ace Brian Hyerstay that noted the issue during the balancing process.  Two of the dowel pins on my crank had some wobble to them, so, for safety's sake, I've pursued oversize dowel pins for the flywheel and crank.  Glad he caught that, as a loose flywheel and/or sheared pins would ruin my day in short order...lol.  Can't be too careful with componentry, especially on an engine build.

Damn, I hate it when shops don't give me a straight (as in "truthful") answer.  I should have trusted my instinct.  I bought a Scat (Part No. 60025) chromoly gland nut for the new motor build, asking specifically if it was a 36mm hex head.  They said, "Yeah, that's the standard size," or something to that effect.  Trusting them, I bought it, and now that I'm home, have verified that it's a 1-1/2-inch gland nut. 

I wanted a 36mm size so I could use my TorqueMeister tool on it, making final assembly/torquing duties much easier, as was the case on my 1776 build.

My question is this: if I were to keep this Scat bolt rather than return it, how would I go about torquing it and what is the accepted torque for a chromoly gland nut?  I don't have a torque wrench that measures up to 250-plus foot-pounds, just wondering what the proper technique is.

Anyone?

Moderators, could this thread possibly be moved into the Cal-Look section rather than remain in the Pure Racing forum?  Just trying to maximize traffic in getting questions answered... thanks in advance! ;D

Bugpack and Berg are the only ones that sell 36mm gland nuts.

Use a 3 foot long cheater pipe on a 3/4" breaker bar with a 1 1/2" socket and apply all of your weight on the very end of the cheater bar to apply maximum torque. Assuming you weigh 150lbs it will apply 450lbs at the gland nut. For every foot of breaker bar length, the torque is doubled. Not exactly accurate, but people have been doing it this way for decades.

X2   ;)

Well, I weigh about 190, so I guess I'll have to make some adjustments in terms of breaker bar length...;D  The way I see it, I could return this Scat gland nut, but then would have to pay shipping to return it to Portland, and then shipping again for either the Bugpack or Berg gland nut.  I suppose I could use the breaker bar technique as long as I can feel assured I'll get it tight enough.

What should a Scat 1-1/2" gland nut be torqued to?

Scat gland nuts are good. I've used them for years. Save yourself the shipping headaches and torque it to about 400+ ft lbs using the method above. I've heard people taking them to 500 but I think 350-400 is sufficient.

Does it need to be fully torqued to the full setting when setting end play, or just "good and snug?"  Fully torqued would make the most sense to me, but I just wanted to confirm.

Yes, fully torqued is only way I do it.

Gotcha, made the most sense to me.  Next question: is there a set clearance factor for cam gears to the pump?  I'm clearing, but just wanted to know if I need to allow for expansion of metals once the engine gets hot and stuff. 

it's in the Bill Fisher HP book

Yet another inquiry: oil pump covers.  Is there one that's better over others, i.e., steel versus aluminum?  I have a generic aluminum one I am considering using, just wondering if there's pros and cons to each type of pump cover.  I'm trying to use parts I currently have, but also wish to avoid issues of leaks and what not.  Had no issues with my Berg pump cover on the last engine.

Yeah, you need that book and two more: The "idiots manual" by John Muir and the red cover with longblock, "how to rebuild your VW aircooled engine". These are the resources I used when building my 1914. The Berg tech articles are good too. Good luck.

Berg steel with port for full flow. Works for me.

I'm not completely unfamiliar with building VW engines, I've built two others before, a 1600 and a 1776.  ;D Besides that, I have both the books you mention, though I honestly have very little use for the Idiot Manual.

I'm just new to stroker territory, and do have some questions on things I've not had to deal with before, as well as have an interest in what others share as opinions on certain parts versus others. 

Sounds good. Yeah it is tough when a decision can make or literally break an engine. There were a few occasions when I was worried about a choice I made, but it all worked out in the end. That is one reason why I chose to build my engine. If something went wrong I could only blame myself.

My TorqueMeister tool came with instructions on how you use it for larger size bolts. Basically what you do is flip the body of the TM over (mount the gear from the other side) , and weld a 36mm brakedrum nut to the socket size you need. I had to machine some mm's of the socket before welding to get the dimensions right.

I suppose one way for me to look at it is to go with parts that have proven themselves already... I can't go wrong that way, so I may end up purchasing a Berg pump cover just on that basis.  I'll be getting stainless teflon oil lines custom made anyways, may as well kill two birds with one stone. ;D

some of the aluminum ones I've taken off motors have shown that gears were wearing inside surface of cover. If guys didn't want to use a new iron cover, I'd just drag the alum cover on a belt sander. I've run the same Berg cover on my car since 1991, no gear wear. Same oil pump since 2007 (last one bit the dust when part of outer spring went through it.... ::))

The Berg book of instructions and Bill Fisher Book are invaluable references when checking tolerances. Some of the OE specs will suit a high perf motor, but not always. Another excellent book to own is AG Bell's "Four Stroke Performance Tuning" avail from Haynes publisher. Probably best book I've found on setting up any highly tuned motor, Austin, Ford, Porsche , VW, etc... they're all covered.

Whilest waiting to make progress in other areas, quick question on DRLA float heights.  I'd read it's supposed to be 6mm, with the float at its level setting (not fully down, and not fully depress, either).  Just curious as to the validity of this info, and how to properly set the height without damaging (read: destroying, lol) the float.

Anyone?

Keep bumping this thread up in hopes someone will bite... ;D

My next question pertains to rocker arm side clearance.  Using 1.25's from CB Performance, along with their bolt together rocker shafts.  I've tried and tried, but can't seem to get any closer than .009" side clearance on the No. 3 intake valve rocker and both No. 4 cylinder rockers.  The No. 3 exhaust rocker has .011" clearance.  Seems everytime I get one or more of them closer then one or two of them start to bind on the shaft.  Any tips, or are these numbers acceptable?  I always read .005-.007" side clearance, and I figure as the engine wears in they'll get even looser.

I always set the side play on the rockers pretty tight. You are right they will loosen up.  I found that when I set it over .003 they would make an awful racket and everyone would tell me to adjust my valves.  I set them to about .001.  It would be interesting to see what others do.

I even set them very tight otherwise they get noisy as Donny B said

But beware of the movement of the whole rocker shafts when setting play.

Knock sligthly on one end of the shaft and tighten the shaft.
check play
loosen the shaft and knock at the other end.
check play

and you will see that the play is differnet... That`s because the shaft can move sligthly on the mounting bolts of the shaft.
I always mark the shafts in the direction I knock the shaft before tightening.

I always had to sand the shims,end caps, rockers or rockermounts to get the best side play.

Have fun!

I can't remember how I did it on my 1776 aside from trial and error... ;D  Sometimes that's the only way to go, a shim here, a shim there, and then bolt it and torque it all down to see where we're at.  I think I'm going to have to buy some more shims, though, as I don't have much left to work with.  I have a few nickel and dime pieces I need to order, anyhoo, not a big deal.

The biggest point of frustration with these CB Performance bolt-together rocker shafts is the fact that changing shims on one end totally effects the clearances on the other end.  I'm struggling to get any degree of consistency so I can know what direction to go in terms of getting clearances correct.  Rocker arms either end up loosey goosey or else some loose, and others locked up on the shaft, too tight.
Also have a set of used Berg rocker shafts I may try, since they have the center spacer with a set screw in place... not sure, but I'm thinking that may be the way to go.

I am assuming that the center spacer on that bolt together kit slides from side to side.  If that is the case I would just drill a hole in the middle of the spacer and tap it and get an allen head set screw and loctite it in place so it would be fixed like the Berg rocker.  Then it would be easier to set up the side play on the rocker arms.

Even after everything is set up nice and tight after your break in period and a few hundred miles I notice that I always have to tighten up the side play on a few rocker arms.  Just part of the job.

I never have checked to see how the rockers on my 1776 settled in, even after 5K miles.  Noise never seemed excessive, though I did have steel pushrods.  Aside from that, not bad in the least.  I may check that out while installing that motor into my buddy's Baja, as I sold the 1776 in order to fund this new 2017 lump. ;D

Say Ryan, those CB 1.25's your using, are they the VW style ones or the swiper ones, meaning you need lash caps.

Ted

They are VW style, with the adjuster at the valve...

Fiddled with the engine a bit last night after a local car club meeting... amazing how much easier the shimming to side clearance chore is with the Berg rocker shafts.  I seriously wonder why all the companies are making their rocker shafts with a set screw in the center spacer.  ::)

Well, after determining pushrod length from what I read in the Berg blue book and elsewhere, my geometry is spot-on at half lift, but that's where I have a question. I'm running an Engle 125 cam with a set of the CB Performance Super Stock 1.25 rocker arms.  I'm only getting .495" lift at the valve, total, whereas in theory it should be .522" or so.  This ratio with the actual lift comes out to 1.18, at my last calculation.  I seem to remember that my genuine VW 1.25s in my 1776 were off a bit, as well, but I was wondering if there's a way to ensure I get full lift out of this cam and these rockers, or is it just "what it is?"

Well, after asking a few questions here and there, I'm satisfied with where the valvetrain lies. ;D  I got lucky and my geometry was spot on at half-lift.  Valve to piston clearance is ample, too.  Next step is to check ring gaps before a thorough cleaning and then final assembly.

Regarding end play: I've always done it previously with the long block fully assembled, but I saw an article in a magazine where one shop did it in the short block stage (no cylinders/heads assembled yet).  Any thoughts??  ???

think its better in short block,
the less parts the better i think

Cool, will be addressing this step soon. ;D 

I'm getting a bit ahead of myself, but I'm curious about carb jetting.

I've got a pair of 45 DRLA Dellortos with 38mm venturis.  Jets currently in them include 75 idles, 200 main air correctors, 180 mains (I believe) and can't remember the emulsion tubes.  Just wondering where I need to go to get into the ball park when I fire this engine for the first time.

To reiterate the specs: 2017, 42x37.5mm valves, 8.5:1 compression, 1-5/8" exhaust.

Anyone?

Quick question, as I'm about ready to try this myself... do I slide the cheater pipe all the way down to the socket end of the breaker bar?  Or is it three feet off the end of the breaker bar handle?  Just curious.

3 feet from the socket.

You measure from the center of rotation of the nut.

Thanks guys, I appreciate it.

I'm looking at running NGK plugs... but which ones should I be looking at for this engine combo?  I've got 3/4 reach plugs in the Steve Tims Stage II heads, if that helps.  Thanks!

12 or 14mm thread?

May have to check with Tims, but they're based on 043 Mexican castings.

Same castings as my K-Roc heads.  BCP7ES.  These have the small 5/8" socket size. 

This is something you should be able to figure out for yourself.
The latest Mex 043 heads used an M14 plug.

You're right Bruce, and in fact I forgot I'd already threaded in a set of run of the mill Bosch W8ACs (forgive me if the number is incorrect as I'm rattling off the top of my head here at the office) for the purpose of measuring the chamber volume... they are indeed 14mm threads.

Okay, so I got the flywheel torqued on today and everything's all buttoned up.  End play measures in at .070", which seems awful extreme to me.  What would cause this?  I know that the rule of thumb for end play shims is three, but what does one do if one has to take up that much more clearance?  Is it an issue with the thrust bearing, and if so, what do I look for?

Ryan, .007 or .070? Is that with no shims?

Ted

Hi Ted, that's with no shims, 070" in total... seems awful excessive to me.

YA! Who's crank and flywheel are you running?

DPR 78.4mm welded counterweighted crank, brand new CB performance chromeoly flywheel.

DPR is good, but I think it's your flywheel.. You can either run 4 shims, or call Jose @ DPR and tell him about your problem. Maybe need to have the inside suface cut to give you less endplay. Im a strong believer of German flywheels. There is a set dim. between the two surfaces of the flywheel. Ask Jose. I can look at one of my flywheels a little later and get back to you also. I would call Jose @ DPR. You sure there was nothing between the crank and flywheel?

Ted

Put some shims in.

Key engine build technique obviously is to check, double check and triple check everything... went back home last night and checked things over... the flywheel wasn't fully seated.  Got 'er torqued down using a 24-inch breaker bar the best I could (the engine case kept wanting to turn over on me, did what I could to hold it down while tightening the gland nut), and the end play shored up to .038". 

The issue I currently have is keeping the engine still while tightening the gland nut.  I've got an old and pretty sh*tty rollaway engine stand that doesn't keep the engine in place even for minor torqueing procedures.  I'm thinking my only option is to have a burly buddy come over and hold the engine case while I use the breaker bar... anybody have any other suggestions?

Buy one of those torqe tools, I have an original one that a good friend gave me, works real good, don't take much to work. If your thinking of building anymore motors, good investment. Glad it all worked out though Ryan.

Ted

I've got one of those, Ted, but it doesn't work with a 1-1/2" gland nut, unfortunately.  I'm thinking I would have been money ahead to ship the damn Scat gland nut back to the idiots who told me it was 36mm and bought the Bugpack or Berg 36mm gland nut.  Spent more than 50 bucks this weekend betweed the socket and the breaker bar.

I don't want to permanently change my torque tool by welding a 1-1/2" socket to it, so I guess I'm stuck... lol.

oh, oh...should've just got the Berg unit:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=634870 (http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=634870)

(http://images.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/pix/medium/2153097.jpg)

This fumbling around with a breaker bar stuff is kind of annoying, especially when there's no one else around to give me an extra set of hands or arms... ;D I may just accept the breaker bar and socket as an extra set of tools in the garage, and make the investment in the 36mm gland nut.  When it comes to tools there's no such thing as having too many, I reckon!

Any tips on how to remove the eight-doweled flywheel once it's on an assembled short block?  I will say in advance that I do not have an air hammer and very limited air tools of any sort.  I'm considering renting the Aircooled.net tool, as I won't need it more than 30 days, since I now know my end play situation.  Just don't want to gnarl up my dowel pin holes.

I bought a Bugpack helping hand tool 15 yr ago just for that reason, it's been a lifesaver

A new set screw for the engine stand has made a world of difference!  Got the gland nut loose last night on the stand, now just fighting with getting the flywheel itself off the eight dowels.

If ya have two big screw drivers, put them behind the flywheel between case and work it off, usually works.

Ted

I'm gonna build me one of these:

(http://www.1800vw.bizhosting.com/images/fwpuller.jpg)

(http://www.1800vw.bizhosting.com/images/FWPullerBottom.jpg)

Read all about it:

http://www.1800vw.bizhosting.com/flywheelpuller.htm (http://www.1800vw.bizhosting.com/flywheelpuller.htm)

Just another option...

RLR makes a real nice one, a little pricey though, but it works real good especially on wedgemated flywheels.

Ted

Yeah, I tried last night to use a couple big screwdrivers with even pressure, also tried another method of tapping the outer perimeter of the flywheel while applying leverage with one screwdriver, that sumbitch didn't even budge!  Lol. ;D  I'm suspecting there may be burrs in the dowel pin holes from when they were redrilled for 11/32 dowel pins.  My fault for not checking when mocking it up to set end play.
Ted, that's the tool John C. at Aircooled.net has for rent.  I think I'm going to just bite the bullet and rent it.  Since I can use it for 30 days, I will get the job done with ease and not have to sweat it anymore.  Only bummer is the delay in being able to work on the engine, but once I have the tool it should speed up progress greatly.

I would buy it, but am short on funds right now.  That's something I suspect I could use many times over.  Once this engine is done, I suspect I won't be going back to stock stroke engines anymore...;D

I found that in a Google search, but found it very vague as to exactly HOW to make it.  Fabricating tools is not my strong point, unfortunately!  ;)

hey dude,
i made a puller with a rectangular bar, with in the middle a very big nut welded on,
at both ends a hole to mount it to the flywheel,
i put a plate between the big bolt and gland nut not to damage the gland nut and you can screw in the big bolt against the gland nut and so it will pull the flywheel off;
you have to loosen the gland nut first off course and the looser the flywheel comes, the more you turn out the gland nut.
I always work with a play of 1 mm and loosen in stages.
it cost me nothing! :)

I think, outside of having someone weld on the big nut to the bar, I could probably handle making something like that!  For now I chickened out and rented the puller from Aircooled.net.  Trying to get this engine built before we get too far into the fall season.  Even if the engine isnt' running by then, I'm hoping to get the garage cleaned up so I can park my '63 in there once more. ;D

Thinking by now I probably could have made this tool if I had attempted to source out some bar stock and someone to weld the nut on.  Placed my order a week ago Friday with Aircooled.net and just found out this past Thursday there's no one around to update me on the status of my order since the parts mgr. is gone until next Tuesday... ::)  The good news, of course, is I haven't been charged, but I'm just eager to start making progress on this engine... can't do anything further at this point until I have the tool.

Curious about carburetor venturies... I had a recommendation recently to step down to either 40mm carbs for my combo or else go down on the venturi size... given my elevation is 4,800 feet, what are the general thoughts on venturi size with relation to elevation?  I was told my engine will be pretty lazy with 38mm vents, and that the engine would like 40mm Dellortos better than 45's... any thoughts?

Anyone??

Bump.  Still looking for some suggestions...

wish i could help you,
but i dont know anything about carbs :( :(

General rule of thumb is 2mm smaller than your intake valve. Stepping down to 40s would be a step backwards unless you plan on commuting to work long distances to work and your worried about Smug pollution. ;D

Ryan, John is right, stick with ya got, use the 38 Chokes and try it, you need air speed, if it response good and plugs look good, your good.

Ted

Smug pollution?  "Good for youuuuuu! Thaaaaanks!" ;D  A little South Park reference for John Boy there...lol.

Thanks guys, will stick with the 38s on this combo.

I knew you'd catch that. ;D

But of course! ;D

Carburetor linkage is another purchase I will soon need to make.  Any preferences on crossbar set ups, aside from Berg linkage?  I'm not sure how well it would fit my Scat doghouse shroud and don't really want to modify it.  I was thinking about a hexbar set up since I will likely relocate my coil using a case mount (ahead of the distributor) unless someone suggests a better location/placement.  Originally I though of going with the Scat push-pull linkage, but the coil location prohibits this.

Just wondering what everyone's preferences are?

I like CB for cross bar linkage. It's cheap and easy to set up.

That's kind of what I was leaning towards... I once had Tayco/Bugpack cross bar (the round tube style) for a pair of 34 ICTs on my first Bug, and it was a nightmare keeping them synched.  I think that was the only item I ever had from Bugpack that I wasn't very happy with, but that was back around '93 or '94.

Whilst waiting for my next parts/tool arrival in the mail, got a quick question on assembling a deep sump.  The stud that also fastens the oil pick up to the case bottom is my concern, given the tight quarters/difficult access.  Do you bolt the sump to one half of the case while its still split so you can tighten the nut down on the oil pickup, and then install the other case half?  This seems to make the most sense to me, but have never installed a sump before, so thought I'd pick a few brains out there whilst my project is temporarily on hiatus.

Bump.

What sump? Brand.

It's a Scat 1.5 Qt.

Tip:  I did a case mount coil.  If you want to save a few $$$, go buy some angle aluminum.  Bring it home, look at the pic of said mount, drill, drill, hacksaw, and you just made your own.

I was so proud of myself.   :D

Update, I just gave it some additional thought, and realize now that a longer stud is all that's needed... simple enough solution.  Forgot that I'm using metric allenheads to hold the sump on for five of the six mounting points, but the fastening point for the oil pick up tube will remain a stud.

Javabug, I would consider that, but by the time I travel someplace that has what I need (if you saw where I currently lived, you'd understand! lol) I probably could have bought the ready-made one and had it shipped here... I think Wolfgang International in Redding, Calif., has the case mount part, and they have some other things I need, as well.

No prob.  I just figured any hardware store should have it. 

For what it is worth I prefer the CSP center pull linkage to the CB Hex Bar system any day. It has less slop and less parts to wear out and require adjustment over time.  However it would require you to find another mounting point for your coil.

I think my buddy Zach had that linkage on his Fastback and had good things to say about it as well... right now I'm not dead set on anything, as until the flywheel tool shows up from Aircooled.net, I can't do squat on my engine.  Unless I split the case and tap the flywheel off with a rubber mallet, I gotta be patient. Lol.

One thing for sure, this car is by no means a primary driver, so odds are it would take quite a while for me to wear any parts out, such as carb linkage.  I admit I do like the 'clean' look of the CSP linkage.

Thinking a bit ahead, I'm attempting to decide muffler options... I prefer Dynomaxes over Magnaflows, but noticed Thunderbird makes a nice merged single QP (www.thunderbirdexhaust.com).  Am considering going that route for the traditional cal-look, but am wondering how much difference I can expect in power if I were to go dual QPs rather than single?  Sadly, Thunderbird does not offer a dual set up at this time.  Bugpack has a nice one, but, as I mentioned in another thread, do not feature the bell/flared tips that I like so much.  Any thoughts?

Call Tiger at A1, maybe he can build an old setup. Ya never know till ya ask.  ;D

Ted

I may talk to him, he's a hell of a nice guy... I'm a little ahead of myself at this point, hell, I don't even have the longblock done yet...lol.  Just thinking about what the end result will be.  Single mufflers tend to not rattle loose, in my experience, but I love a nice, throaty purr like what dual QPs offer.  Plenty of time ahead, yet...keeping all ideas on the table ;-)

I read on another site a fellow's troubles using German lifters (his were used German lifters reground by SLR) and an Engle 125 cam.  Given that his engine combo is identical to what I'm building, I'm a little nervous, as I'm using German Wizeman lifters with my 125 cam.  I didn't have any issues using German lifters with my Engle 100 cam in my 1776, but am a little concerned about this combination.  I've sort of lost track of the latest trends as to cam and lifter compatibility?  Hoping somebody can offer me a word or two of advice before I do final assembly.

Bugpack or CB

Cool, will look into both those... thanks!

Well, the good news is I'm just about ready to fire this beast... new starter and battery are in place and it turns over with the plugs out and rockers off.  Oil light turns off within a few revolutions, indicating oil pressure is building as it should.

Get this POS fired off already........    ::)  Less writing, more wrenching!

I finally had the time to do it today! ;D 

Broke the cam in successfully, though fought carburetor issues for quite some time... had fuel backwashing onto the butterflies after cranking it over.  Went over the carbs and at last check it was only the number one and three cylinders' barrels doing it.  Engine snapped and sneezed through the stacks and muffler initially but ran fine for the 20-minute break-in period... after shutting the engine down, I could hear a burbling sound... and saw the fuel pouring into the barrel on the number one and three cylinders.  All the other ones were okay, though.  Not sure what to make of it.

Check the needle and seat.

Yup, or the famous Dellorto drip!

Looks like the carbs are going to have to go to ACE/Art Thraen, which I probably should have done to begin with.  Everything else seems to be fine, but my problem doesn't appear to be float related.  It's my understanding that an overfilling float would lead to leakage through the nozzle near the auxiliary venturi in the top of the carb.  My issue is with fuel leaking from the side of the carb near the main venturi.

I should have sent them there to begin with rather than mess around with them myself.  In fairness, the seller only told me they needed to be rebuilt, didn't mention anything about any internal problems; I took that to mean clean 'em up and put in new gaskets and seals.  Won't be a cheap fix, I've come to learn, but at least they'll be done right.

At least I know the engine runs and I made it through cam break-in... lol.  The suspense would be killing me by now.

I did the very same thing and it was more rewarding than waiting for a store bought cheap (junk) bracket to show up in the mail.
-Andy

Here is the rough cut and drilled mount with helicoils installed:
(http://i698.photobucket.com/albums/vv348/youngnstudly/IMG_5687.jpg)

Here is the polished and installed version-don't mind the messy wiring as I was just wiring up the fuel pump relay and alternator when the pic was taken:
(http://i698.photobucket.com/albums/vv348/youngnstudly/IMG_5914.jpg)

Wait until you get to this point Bugnut....engine installed and damn near ready to run...That was a good day until I figured out that the hockey stick in the nose cone was bent and the trans was stuck in gear after screwing around with the shifter adjustment for 20 minutes...::) I had to pull the engine and trans completely out after installing both, plus stripping all the undercoating off and recoating everything and resetting the suspension in the rear. Shown here is the CB hexbar linkage as well.  If you get really bored waiting for your carbs to get back you can make a firewall like I did that matches your door panels...polished of course.