The Cal-look Lounge

Hello
I'm experiencing a problem with a brand new T1 crank and flywheel (both taiwan made), I try to shim them and I need like four shims of the 0,36mm ones, do you have any suggestions on this before starting experimenting? Should I just fabricate-find  a thicker shim or I have to fix it in another way, any info appreciated cause I'm stuck

Friendly

Dimitrios

I find that funny.  I had a similar situation and could only use two shims to set the end play.  Looks like they have very wide tolerances on those.  I experienced that the sealing surface on the flywheel was very rough also.  Do you see that on yours.  I would say use as many shims as needed and move on.  You would be much better with a reground German flywheel and crank.  JMO

I had something similar, couldn't get a tighter endplay than .70mm with 3 shims... Ditched the flywheel and got an OEM VW flywheel.

Hello

unfortunately I didn't thought measuring this initially, now is late to dump it as the engine is closed together and the parts had been balanced all together. What I thought doing is try to spot weld two shims together -low amp so as not to deform and then finish them- and put it in the middle, so as to have still three shims. Or should I continue searching for some thicker washer in one piece?

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Dimitrios

just do like donny said , use the number of shims that is required, forget about the "3 shim" deal, when using all aftermarket parts you will run into tolerance issues like this, I've built a couple of engines with 2 or 4 shims in the past out of neccesity, they all worked out ok, but next time check all this before doing the balancing, alot of this chinese made stuff is shite

O.K. guys

as Donny said, I'll stuff as many are needed to get the correct lash, really thank you for your inputs

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Dimitrios

I don´t see what could go wrong with getting an extra shim in there, as long as the overall lash is correct?

Yes actually the same was thinking, but you know how it goes, sometimes for some reason we don't want to think differently and do what logic dictates..

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Dimitrios

Are you sure the Dowel Holes  that were drilled to 8 Dowell the crank and flywheel dont have burrs from drilling and keeping the flywheel from seating ?? also you can have the inside of the flywheel machined so you get the right end play with three shims  just my 2 cent cuz I spent the rest

I checked that, I even measured with depth mikes all the dimensions there, everything shows that I need some extra shim and this is what I will do with no much hassle..

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Dimitrios

Take out the flywheel o'ring and try setting your end play. If that works, you may have the same problem I had where the edge of the crank was sharp and would pull the o'ring out just enough to be pinched between the flywheel and crank and not allowing the flywheel to seat fully. The cure was to take a small file and smooth the outside edge of the crank (can be done without taking motor apart). Reinstall the o'ring and verify the end play has not changed.

I do know that many of these cranks had issues with the length so I hope the o'ring is your problem as it's easy to fix.


Marc

Please forgive me if this is too basic.   I pulled apart motors with an o-ring'd flywheel
and a paper gasket.........few of us are born with the knowledge  ;)

Hello

marc1951, I already ckecked this as I had the same problem in another engine, I have to admit that luck wasn't in my side on this engine, thanks for the inputs. I liked the idea with the paper gasket!

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Dimitrios

have a machinist to take away some meat from inside of the flywheel. (Mating surface flywheel to crank).

I had a recent problem with the aftermarket flywheel, when I went to install the flywheel it had no end play after trying several times I found out that the radius on the flywheel was hitting the seal, I installed it like I always have flush with the case. the fix, I just installed the seal in further until it bottomed out.

Wow! just a bunch of good valuable information here, it could save me from eventual future headaches concerning flywheels, really thank you all for the infos

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Dimitrios

If you used a gasket, it would move your flywheel out and increase the gap you are now trying to fill with shims.

On the motor I referred to, I ended up with .050 total and used 3 of the biggest shims I had to make my end play.
If the play is still too much, I suppose the options are to have the mating surface on the crank machined as  Shubee2 mentioned or try a different flywheel or use 4 shims instead of 3.

I would rather have the problem of too much end play then not enough as if you couldn't get enough endplay, I would be worrying about the radius being wrong on the crank where the rear bearing goes against. In those cases, you have to cut some clearance on the main bearing (take the motor apart).


Once again to everyone..........set up the endplay with no seal, no o'ring and if that goes well, stick in your rear seal and o'ring and check again. If it changes you know the problem is one of those seals.

The Chinese need to pay more attention to details and a little more quality control couldn't hurt.

Good luck,

Marc

Let me edit this.....insert MISTAKENLY USED (a paper gskt).

I had the same problem Dom.  IAP chromolly flywheel... Not knocking the flywheel.  Its a nice piece just have always used german. With this on the seal has to be installed further.

Using 4 shims is not a problem. We dont like it, because "the book" says 3 shims Period.
2 shims however is dangerous. Because the friction through the shims is not reduced enough, so the shims have a tendency to "bite" the bearing, even when it is set up loose. if that´s the case, I get the flywheel ground for the tolerance needed for three shims.
T