The Cal-look Lounge

After a lot of input from my mentor (Jim Ratto) and a lot of sleepless nights i'm going to build this puppy. I hope it will perform and doesn't give me any issues so i can concentrate on the other project: Kmann-T4

Like the subject title, it will be T1. Here's the specs:

Mag. Case machined and bronze lifter bushings by Steve Hollingsworth
78 CB (modified by Jakob) x 94 Berg (now Wiseco/Mahle)
Flywheel modified by Jakob (GetBackOnTrack)
Scat H-Beam rods (short) Now Bugpack.
30 MM Oil Pump
Jeff Denham Heads 40 x 37,5  (55cc'd by Udo Becker) 9.5 ish...( now 50cc) 10:5 ish)
Udo Becker 58 gramm lifters
Webcam 86B
Scat 1,4 : 1 Rockers
Manton p.rods
IDA's with 37 mm Venturies
CSP Porsche cooling system
Merged Header 39mm, with twin 2,5" Mufflers (Turbo Thomas).


Udo Becker will replace my fourth gear, so (PRO) tranny specs will be:
R & P 4.12--1st 3.80 --2cnd 2.06--3rd 1.31--4th 0.89

When i dismantle the "old" engine i will take pics of the Scat Lube-A-Lobes and post them.

nice combo.  good luck with it.

Thanks Dem,
Monday evening i will start taking the block apart and take pics. Berg P/C's  look perfect (as always).
I'm looking for a reasonable flat 3,5 quart sump. Empi ? (My CB is just a box sticking out). Anyone ?

Hey Hurry,
nice combo, but hurry up  ;)
Got to see you with the car/engine again.

But how is life, are you going to DDD,
I don t know if I am going.
Got my engine running for the first time yesterday....so you hurry up.
got to say I am happy with that.

Hope to see you soon

Regards Edgar

Hey Ed, for sure i will go to DDD. Early Christmas time for me....Receiving parts from Udo B. and Gunter !!!
Regards,
Harry

I think with that cam you can make run up to 10,5:1 . 98 oktan fuel is avaliable in Holland !? I can cut the heads deeper if you like  :)

Udo

Are you sure you need to lift that 40mm that far with 86c and 1-1.4. Seems a bit overkill to me. You should flow the heads and see where the restriction of the valve ends and make youre choice of cam from that.

he'll use a 86B, see his first post ;)

86b with GOOD small valve heads and that compression make a nice crisp engine.  At least from what I remember — I haven't driven mine since May.   :-\

I would personaly change two things:
Porsche cooling against an original upright style one (for the stealth look)
39mm header against an 42mm

Have fun!

I´m with Udo. That cam WANTS more CR. 10,3 is my personal preference, but I´m sure even 10,5 is safe.
Ditch the Porsche fan system. It looks good, but robs power and its not up to par when you run stock style heads.
39 mm header (?) OD. or ID. I hope you mean ID. If we talk OD. you will burry some upper end  power there. on the other hand it will pull like a freight train in the lower rpm.
T

;)

Felix / Torben, i will take it from there (39mm ID), and can always play with a bigger header. I will go with Udo's feel about CR.
Felix, the Porsche system has always been a "Must Have" thing for me for years. I just can't resist anymore...

Thanks for all the input, i'll keep you posted.
Harry

PS, should i shim the CR under the cylinders or combine with a copper-head shim. (Under-- makes the cylinder shorter).

I would use cylinder spacer
By the way , the heads look good , as far as i can say the 86b cam is ok. 86c would be too much for the heads

Udo

Thanks Udo.

I like to shim (1mm) under the head to keep the cylinder in the case. But what about the squish in the head ???

I think in your case it is better to use copper gaskets in the heads. Your 043 castings are not that strong for 94 bore...

Udo

 ;)

Block apart, everything smooth even the Scat-hate-a-lobes. But you can see the outward going "ring" of "stress" on the tops. Impossible to photograph. I will not use that crap again. Web perfect, no pitting.

This Topic better should be in: In Da Werks.

 8)

For the time being, i'm going to keep the Pro-Tranny (with 3.80 1- 2.06-2 1.31-3 and wrong 0,82-4) and see what happens. (More CR and Cam). Too much money going into this bottomless hole.

I'm thinking of: CSP Ceramic 1 5/8" Header (small flange) to CSP 1 1/2" dual stainless Mufflers (small flange).
I'd REALLY would like Udo's or Beetle Factory dual muffler setup but i can't weld stainless.

16-01-2011: Problem solved with Turbo Thomas.

Anymore suggestions ?

i know a guy that once said: just build the f*cking thing ;D

Bad pics, but you can see the outgoing stress in the casting.

.

Shut Up And Drive.

King of the roads says you move to slow!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Zko7pBeHkk

Just kidding Harry! It's fun to build an engine!

Case is coming in over the next 2 weeks !!! Can't wait !!!

I just needed that, but i'm waiting on parts. In the meantime i'm checking on the "old" stuff just to learn.
Fun will start soon !!! (with The Fu back into the shop player).

Finally, case is in. Thanks customs, it was there since December 10... Plus another 230,00EU in the Queens #ss.
All machine-work done by Steve Hollingsworth.

Today, i countersunked the (bronze/bushed) lifterbores and trial fitted all bearings etc. The work on the case is just exceptional...Steve also corrected the oil-plunger bores and seating for the plungers. (oilpressure/temp !). I will try to post bigger/better pics. Tonight i will start deburring, f#ck New Years Eve, with the Fu in the player i got to Get 'R Done.

(Get or Git 'R Done copyrights  of TT and UD).

The bronze bushings are a really nice tight fit for the UB lifters, case clearancing is minimal but perfect. Every M8 is spotfaced for bigger nuts/washers. Steve even asked me if i use I or H-Rods. The man knows his stuff. No senseless CNC hacking here. This really motivates to raise the bar as high as possible (to my abillities).

Before last hone.

nice work harry! that case looks spotless too!
good to see you're back at it!

(good to see you're back at it!)  ;)

Messing with pics/programm, hope it works...

I will hone/polish the "seats" for p/r tubes. For now i'm still deburring.

After discussing heads/cam/cr/carbs and exhaust with Richard "Turbo" Thomas, he advised 39mm ID header (still...) and i opted for twin 2,5 "mufflers, with a bung for Lambda sensor. It's going to look something like this. (photo from TT's Shop/Site).

A full week of deburring now. Mag-Case-molds must be getting worse inside and out, especially left half and all around the lifterbores. The shop is a mess. (and me).

.

.

Why am i posting this, the story has been told a zillion times.

Lookin good Harry, are you gonna paint the case?

BLACK VHT. (must be from the motorcycle days, i just like black cases , sumps and heads...and polished ribs).

Nice work ! Folowing this with interest.

Thanks Nico.
The large 3/8 bore and plug on the flywheel side just fell apart when i pulled the plug. Had to tap to M18 to find sufficiant meat to support the new plug. Casting flaw ? Must be. Also need a helicoil kit for this. EXPENSIVE M18 x 1.5.

nice work harry, your oil is gonna love bathing in that smooth case!  ;)
then it's up to you to stir up the whirlpool  ;D

Looking Great there Harry.  GET R DONE  ;D.  UD .

 ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D Da Man !

PFFFFF. Case saved. M20...., with M18 x 1.5 Timesert.

I'm planning to replace all M8 studs in the case for longer ones, so i don't have to back out the stock ones to make the thick M8 washers / nuts fully locking. Would grade 8.8 be enough for strength ?

21-01-2010: Must be, because my local hardware store tells me it's the best you can have.

Harry,

looks good keep pictures coming.

KId regards edgar

Aircooled.net just assured me Bugpack crank will be shipped next week. I'm still grinding etc. Right case half is with a very, very skilled machine guy who will lathe 2 new large plugs for the case. Next, grinding notches in the rods, (bearings done) etc.

For What It's Worth. All M8's re-done for fat washers and large nuts. A lot of machining to do. Wish i could do it myself...Damn Waiting. CSP Porsche bracket needs some serious machining as well.

.

Tight Fit. (NOT).

Looks very nice and clean Harry!

Things are going slow.
Bugpack crank is not available thru Aircooled.net so i went CB  :-X It's in and i will send all my stuff for balancing and lightening to Jakob (GETBACKONTRACK) next week. Some small crap i did tonite.

.

Couldn't paint the sump, since i had to epoxy all small holes in the EMPI casting.

love the engine case how did you mask the case

Just a thought,

Why not plug the oil radiator holes, remove the original thermostat in the case and use an inline oil radiator and thermostat on the full flow lines?

Less oil hoses and fittings.


(http://cal-look.no/lounge/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=13549.0;attach=48949;image)

Hey J-F, i will think about that.  ;)

Tx Fredy, i just use old parts and seals wherever i can, the rest with tape/paper.

It's simpler with a schema  ;)

Thanks Jean, Understood, i already run twin oilcoolers with fans under the car controlled by thermostat. I was thinking of using the original cooler in/outs for a 3rd cooler inside the car to have some heat during cold days. (It worked in the past). I know.... a lot of plumbing. Should i still remove the oil-cooler control plunger ? (I'm not sure about that).

Nice oil cooler setup  :o

3 oil coolers?
you might as well as go "ratto" with those two and fab a duct each off the fans feeding the original heater box inlets. tada, instant heating whenever you open those nifty flaps. and remove the ducts during warmer months, of course. that's what i'd do had the cagero not been right under the torsion tube.

Sorry Died, i'm sick and tired of fabbing. I'm fabbing too much on both cars. You know what i mean. ( Go "ratto" understood 8)).
Plus, see the twin small coolers under the car as just one large one.

Stop talking Harry, time to drive this baby to EBI this year 8)

Paul , i'm just fully "booked" with parents issues. EBI would be a good goal. 8)

Yeah I know, your parants ruin the first part of your life, your kids the second ;D

I have the same problem, just a few hours a week to work on the oval :(

Cheers Paul.

 :)

Damn they look cool!  8)

Please Turbo Thomas, could you get GetBackOnTrack and my exhaust systems done please ...Mock-up time..
All my balancing stuff has been send to Jakob, the flywheel and all machining will be a piece of art, i know. For the rest, things are going slow. I'm running back and forth between my parents now. Makes you feel guilty just doing the hobby, but every now and then i need it just to focus on other things.
PS. Both oil-plungers will stay as is.

Seems that the exhaust is coming in  ??? Anyway, tonites project on my Scat H-Beams. More pics later. (Picture from Pauter Machine).

Hi Harry, How did you do that?? I was thinking to modifying my bearings and rods to.

Greetings, Paul

I use a diamond cutter on the dremel to notch, then file the bearing, same thing for the rods. But looking at the Scat rods themselves, there are so many imperfections in the forging around the eye, i just don't know. I will have a look at Bugpacks tomorrow. Just can't afford Pauters.

Today, my friend Theo and i measured the cylinders for lenght and roundness. All well.
Cylinder length all between: 114,12 and 114,11
Roundness all between: 94.012 and 94.015
We just couldn't figure out the perfect lenght differences on top or bottom. Hopefully Steve's machine work on the case/cylinderbores depth is spot on.

Harry
PS. i ordered the Bugpack short rods.

Bugpack rods are a lot better forging, big difference with Scat forgings. (Strange cause it all looks like the same china shit to me). Off to the balancer.

Hi,

Are the Scat in the top picture and Bugpack in the bottom picture?

Im supprised the Bugpack ones are better, could it just be down to the batch or have people seen this before?

I know CB Performance do a similar rod, any idea how theirs compairs?

(http://www.socalautoparts.com/images/product/CB_1289-1291.jpg)

Love the build btw ;)

J

Hi James, the Scats are in the pic with the notched bearing. The last 2 pics are the Bugpack's. It's just hard to photograph but the Scats just had so many stress-risers around the eye for the pin-boss waiting for disaster. I can't tell you about the CB's but i used I-beams for a customer and they looked and still are working well after 5 years of hard use.

Thanks J.
Harry

Cool, thanks Harry

Its a great build your doing here!

Really enjoying your posts and the whole thing coming together!

Cheers,

J

It's in.

awesome muffler setup harry! :o

X2   ;)

x3

And nice street sign in the background  ;D

He Harry you got it...
Looks nice..

Thanks guys, my livingroom starts to look like the parts department. Plus more x-mas today.

Nice work Harry!
Question: do you have to notch the both sides of the rods, or just one side?
stupid question maybe :)

cheers, Peter

Hi Peter, i'm just the one with stupid questions ! You have to do both sides, BUT i also vieuwed a link on the Lounge were a californian porsche machine shop did one notch on both sides out of the middle.
Stupid Question back: How do i determine the lenght of my pushrods when i go to Scat 1:4 rockers. Normally when i set up valve geometry i set up the valve adjusting screw online with the valve-stem  (@ half lift) and do my precision work from there. But with 1:4 this is a new territory for me. (Adjusting screw on the pushrod side...).

Best Regards,
Harry

Hey Harry,
i bolted on the rockers without shims first...
i looked at half lift if the adjuster is inline with the pushrod....
after a few turns of the motor i could see a wear pattern on the lash cap...
you should check that the center of the wear pattern is also in the center of the lash cap..
Well... thats how i did it  ;)

about the adjuster:
the adjuster screws have an oiling hole that needs to correspond to a hole in the rockers,
so if you screw the adjuster in too much, or not enough, the rocker shafts get no oil, i put the adjuster in the middle

Peter, you might want to check this out.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=7wuNuuEoN7Y#t=13s

Harry, when notching the rods I guess you can use something like a Dremel. But for main and cam bearings did you do it with a "hand" file?

The rods, i started with a Dremel, then filed them by hand, then polished, again with the Dremel tool. The bearings were done very carefully with the Dremel first, then finished with the handfile and a Scotch pad.

Ok I see  ;) I think I will give it a try on my bearings. Maybe on the rods but I'm not sure (they are not claiming for such high intensive use : balanced/clearanced Rimco 311B rods, and I'd have to have them balanced end-to-end again).

Hi Nico, you might check out this link again. Easy to do by yourself...http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=7wuNuuEoN7Y#t=13s

Thanks for the link Harry. I suppose that notching the rods on the center of the beam and both sides (or the way it's done in the video) will not affect the balancing that much.

Just to compare to the MSD distr. i ordered one of these to hook up to my (excellent) Crane box. Experiences anyone ?
Jakob (GetBackOnTrack) will almost have my balancing-stuff done.

CB Crank is 0.07 mm out on the flywheel side. After machining for 8 dowels and lightening the german flywheel, it is still flexing on the balancer... Jakob has the crank sorted out, he's machining the flywheel now.

Yes.

P.O.R.N!!! Now get the jazz and get it to live!!!

Good luck my friend....

Nice Harry!...... your flywheel looks really light  ;D
Hope you get it running soon.

Greets, Paul

Cool Harry. 8)

Cool Blog Nico !!! Love the rabbit with BRM's ! And Mr.Pedrini is there as well (Decklid)! So are the Music Breaks !

Thanks Harry  ;)

Any news about your engine?  ;)

Yeah ...is it done yet bro ?
Tell me ...

It's not done at all. There are family issues i have to deal with, Mom passed away last April, and Dad is not doing well. Plus, Grace and me took a small vacation as well. I needed some time to reset my horizon and get some motivation. First get a different job and then we'll see. For sure the engine will be a winter project. (THIS winter).  ;)

Well it's been a long time, and a lot of things have happened, but i'm starting again. Last saturday i checked the Wiseco's and Mahle cylinders again with my old friend Jan Smit (www.jspp.nl/). Jan does street to top-fuel bikes all his life. We re-honed/measured the cylinders one more time, weighted and measured the pistons, and his judgement on the Wiseco's"/Mahle was "all perfect". He imported Wiseco for years to Europe when nobody knew about them. You can also have up to 4 (!!) oversizes. My set is now within a 10th of a gramm. Further machining will just fuck things up.
So tonight measuring again on the case etc. Sorry no pics yet.

Harry

Ps, i got my babies directly from Revmaster.

An evening with Permatex, Thinner and The Torquewrench.

No 0-ringed pumps for me, just a little Permatex on the inside of the case/oilpump bore. Let it dry, and it "rolls" up as a perfect seal.

.

Just for the heck of it, I always line up the markings of the oilpumpgears together up front. Permatex Aviation sealant is great for the pump gaskets. You can thin it with some thinner between you fingers and soak the gasket with it.

Looks cool and clean Harry,
I am glad you get some work done.

Regards Edgar

Thanks Edgar ! I will let my baby sleep for now and re-torque her tomorrow. But i got my new job, feeling confident, so i'm diving into the shop again and check the cylinders to case clearence, can't sleep anyway.

Cool dude. Would be nice to see you drive that engine this summer.

Michael

Thanks Michael, i need that , my first IDA engine.. And yes, my wreck has to terrorize the streets again.

Harry

Exactly, get it ready for SCC, than we can drive to there, no bugin next year, so SCC here we come ;)

Regards Edgar

Harry, just a small question where can I get a magnet like you used on your pickup tube?
I am looking for one.

Regards Edgar

Mine is a Berg part. Maybe you can get one at Kaag Kevers. They do a lot of Berg stuff.

NEAT, harry, very neat!
keep up the good work!

Ok thanks Harry, will contact kaag than.

Regadrs Edgar

Thanks Died !

Stupid me, i forgot to compare the pistonboss-height between Mahle and Wiseco. Cylinders are back to the machine shop for shortening at the bottom. (Less shims/good).

Very Clean work Harry!

Hi Harry,good to see you are back in the shop. 8)
See you at the strip of SCC? ???

Thanks Ed, Jesse and Jeepee. I'm hoping for SCC, but i will have to be confident off all the crap i'm doing. With the bus for sure, hope we can go Convoy.

Now i have zero deck on the cylinders 1/3 so Steve did his work. I have a small touch to the top with the Wiseco pistons, so just for security i will use the thinnest shim (0,26mm/0.010 " sanded) under the cylinders and use my used sanded/annealed coppershims between the cylnders and heads.

After fully torque of the flywheel, i just didn't like the endplay at all, so i had the flywheel machined on the transmission side instead of the bearing. Just as Felix/DFL, i crushed 2 o-rings, not good, so i glass-beaded the o-ring groove in the flywheel and then polished with 3M pad. Pics later.

Harry

Still don't like the endplay of the flywheel, so tomorrow off to the machine-shop again.
December 14: Again. December 15: Again. Lathe-Lease ???


Ps. Thats my empty wallet in the background...

Not much going on, i set up endplay, crushed/ damaged 3 o-rings and still don't like the "feel" of it so i didn't went too tight... Alex's tool is just great ! Then worked the humps on the bottomside of the cylinders one more time before VHT paint. I went for lightweight pistonpins from CB but they have to be shortened on BOTH sides to fit the Wiseco's. The pins have a conical step on the inside, so you have to shorten them on both sides. Then check the insides for teflon-button diameters. It only can be done on a lathe with liquid cooling, this is real tool-steel. They sound like a bell.

Harry

Hi harry,

Its nice to see that you are going to finish the engine! its going to be a beast!! 8)

Greets,
Paul

I'm crushing (fly-wheel) o-ring after o-ring, no matter what i do. (heat,cold, moly, teflon spray whatever). It's driving me nuts.

Did you get your endplay set?  if not set it without the O ring,and get it so you are happy with it,then add the o ring and see if it changes

cheers richie

     Re: How many times did you find a crushed flywheel o-ring
« Reply #8 on: Today at 18:08:14 »    

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Quote from: Harry/FDK on Today at 12:36:57
Quote from: richie on Today at 02:04:35
what brand o ring? and what brand flywheel?  can you show us what it looks like still in the flywheel groove after you took the flywheel off?

cheers richie


Thanks Richie. Victor-Reinz 0-ring, german flywheel, pics will follow. I have a hunch what causes the problem...



Crankshaft end has a smooth radius, the flywheel however has been machined deeper on the o-ring side. On the  bad pic you can see a small black dot on the bottom side of the o-ring groove. This section cannot mate with the crank perfectly so i think this is causing my o-ring problem, and gives me different readings for endplay when i turn the crank. Hope this makes sence.

Harry

PS, i checked some no brand o-rings today, most have "hairs" inside/outside that can cause many people the same problem.  

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Thanks for your interest Richie.

PS. this is another flywheel i used for the picture to make things a little clearer.
 
 

Just to have some peace of mind i took the shortblock apart and doing some more homework.

Oh no..  :(

Good to see work starting again here 8) I really need to get back on mine too!

 Re: How many times did you find a crushed flywheel o-ring
« Reply #18 on: Today at 20:53:54 »     

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Quote from: richie on Today at 01:53:38
Quote from: Harry/FDK on December 16, 2011, 18:08:14 PM


 the flywheel however has been machined deeper on the o-ring side.




Why? so are you saying that the flywheel was machined in the area the crank fits into deeper that normal? was the end of the flywheel machined to compensate for this? to keep the correct distance for end play.
If so the o ring is now moving further up the end of the crank when you fit the flywheel and trying to twist itself around,do you fit it with the crank end dry?a little oil would help,its not ment to sit up that far on the crank end in my opinion,be carefull if you "round off " the end of the crank to keep it even,I ave had no problems for a long while,just using the regular Elring supplied o ring that comes in ther gasket sets.
Hopefully you find the sloution and can finish up your engine soon

cheers richie



Richie, youre correct. The flywheel has been machined deeper because the balancer didn/t like the mating of both surfaces. Normally i had never a problem with Victor Reinz / Elring gasket sets with the 0-ring supplied. Enough boring you all, back to my other topic Get 'R Done.

Thanks again all.
Harry  
 
  
 

No problem Ed, now i can check Silverline mainbearings as well...

Messed up posting, shortblock together with Silverline bearings for crank. This set worked out as good as Mahle, just the scotch treatment and all measurements were perfect.

Second attempt. Flywheel has been re-machined, we are 3/100 mm 0ff and zero on the balancer, so now endplay and o-ring issues... More pics later.

Harry

Tight endplay set. 0.05/6...

Why such a tight endplay?

No matter what combination of shims i use, it's either slightly to loose or on the tight side. I will check again after run-in.

Wow, a swiss cheese flywheel! How much does it weigh?

4.8 KG-ish, so streetable. It's just a different approach from Jakob Spring compared to Ahnendorp.

Sanding one more time the cyl. washers and copper rings with 1000 wet/dry and WD40. Cold/shrinked the copper washers in the heads. Cleaned everything, RTV on cyl/bottom and heads. Then pulled a stud from the case-saver #3 and can't get the fucker out. Tons of heat, doesn't work, now loctited a threaded end in and wait for tomorrow. Godda"<_ed. I don't want to drill...and Helicoil. Not enough meat. Are the inserts M12 ?

... + Midlife Crisis Pic...

Drilling for M8 Helicoil would be M10...Leave the casesaver (M12) or not?  Godvergloeiendegodverdomme.

So, Help !

Factory case saver? M12

heres factory later case[m12  with 8mm stud],CB case saver[american thread for 10mm stud] and a case saver for early cases that didnt use them[m14 for 10mm stud]

I dont totally understand what you did? you pulled the stud out of the case saver? or broke the stud in the case saver?

cheers richie

Hi Richie, Factory case saver M12. (i pulled the stud out of the case saver on half torque/ never happened to me before). I managed to tap the case saver all the way in to M10, loctited a thread-end in it and waiting for everything to set. Hopefully with a lot of heat surrounding it, it will come out.

19:30: And that's it... Threaded end broke off, even with a ton of heat and "gentle" treatment.

Somebody upthere must like me... Pffff.

Cool Harry!

That action was another coffin-nail...

For you non-Callook-cooling guys, this is a LOOSE fit of the CSP shroud. I'm very happy with it, and i've seen a lot worse in polyester building. This kit needs just a day to be perfectly trimmed. The fabricator left enough meat to BE trimmed. You will have to do some simple modifications to your pulley "tin" and rear "tin",  if you want to keep a Berg Equalizer (like me).  Thanks Gunter. Here we go.

Part II

Part III.

Part IV[attachment=1]

Part V (T1 Tins or T3 Tins?). What are your opinions ?

If you don't plan on using the "sled" tins by 1&3 and the opposing tins on 2&4, then use the type 3 "cool" tin. I prefer to use the type 1 style though. Tins fit tighter that way.

Zach, can you explain this matter a little bit more please.

Use the type 1 tins,but you need to use all the end pieces as well that fit around the exhaust area and deflect the air around a little,the front 2[the pieces that go around from the flywheel area to under the push rod tubes on a stock engine] need to be cut up to allow the header to fit,the rear 2 sometimes need a little trimming around the exhaust port to clear,similar to what you had to do to the csp shroud

cheers richie

Thanks Richie. I still have a lot of T1 tin available. Maybe use it as a template and make it from aluminum, or fabricate to combine the T1 with T3's .... There's a Italian guy who posted some interesting pics as well for cooling the cyl/heads, but i can't find his topic.

Good work Harry  :)

A lot has happened and i'm still alive, working on this project now. Jubi should be finished the coming winter. Tomorrow Kustom Culture.

NICE BIKE YA GOT THERE HARRY ;) GET R DONE MY FRIEND.

Thanks UD !!!

Heeee Harry good to see you still alive...  :)
long time since you posted..
Everything ok?

a bike noooo....

whats he purpose of the welding on the cooling fins on the head?

nice build just read through it all :)

According to UD, it makes a more durable head. (less vibration i guess).

Anyway the Jubi bug will be moved back to it's homeland. (sans engine). I'm thinking of planting the finished engine in the KG. Or sell everything VW related. Maybe it's time to move on.

2 Bikes already, the Jubi has gone back to Germany and it looks like shit already. I just have to part from it... The KG will be finished first with the T1 engine.