The Cal-look Lounge

what I'm  wondering is do i get a 78 or 82 crank
i'm looking to do a drivers engine
want to go to Norway no problem
is it your first engine build you can do it

whats the best crank and roods combo for me
if I'm going 40 35,5 8,5 to 9 comp
a ifk8 ore  a  w125 40 35 heads

help there is many thing

yes I  do  have  the 94b pistons

Good to see you have the correct motivation in place at least :-)
So I assume to see you with a new engine @ SCC 2011 then. Good luck with you build.

Go 82, fk8 cam, 1.4:1 rockers, 5.5" chevy journal rods, make sure to order the crank chevy journal as well. For street use you don't need the giant valves but can use them if you want to impress the ladies ;D.

 I don't think the size of the engine is going to detirmine  how dependible it is, it has more to do with the quality of the parts and how they are assembled.  I have used 5.4 rods with both those cranks in my race car with no problems. My sons 2275 street car has a FK8, 8.2 compression, 1.4 rockers, 40x35 valves , t3/4 turbo and he drives it every day back and forth to work in it. If he stays out of the gas pedal it gets great gas mileage which is not often,hahahhahaha   Mike

http://s91.photobucket.com/albums/k300/dragvw2180/?action=view&current=080406_McCarthy_Farmington.mp4

vid of my car

Mr dahl you go the BASIC idea
dragvw you car is col but not what i,m looking to do.
but then your sons 2275 is Moor what i want no turbo

Before we turboed my sons car we built the engine with the idea of turboing it later. This is the combo we used including the carbs ( it is a blow through setup now)

case /    arpm
crank/    82 wedgemated vw journals
rods /     5.4 h beams
cam/      FK 8  , straight cut gears , single thrust bearing
rockers/  1.4
heads/    Brothers machine    w/ 40x35    CB double springs , copper head gaskets
compression/ 8.2
pistons and cylinders/   CIMA b's
weber carbs/ dual 48 idf's
 only mistake we made was using a new chromolly flywheel, it's so hard that the clutch disc cannot bite into it properly under boost.

after some help from Jim i ordered a 78 crank
next problem I-beam 5.5 5,4 (cb scat) or stock vw
this is going to be a Long road

 I am not a rich man, I buy one part at a time and when I have all the parts for an assembly I will prepare all the parts to the best of my ability ,put them together and then wait till I can afford more parts. I like the I beam rods with arp bolts, but the ones I used on a friends engine required clearancing, the H beams went together with no problems. If I remember correctly with a 78 stroke and 5.4 rod I used A pistons with cylinder spacers , B pistons gave me too much deck .If you use a longer rod it would take care of the deck.

when i,m looking I-beam its my budget i,m thinking of .
a bit if clearing no problem.

5.5 rod ??

Stay with the shorter rods.  It makes for a narrow engine which is a better fit.  In my 78 x 94 engine I have 5.352 length rods.  The problem I had was that I needed to shorten the barrels .040".  I have large combustion chambers, that didn't help.  I am running 8.1 CR.  K8 with 1.4 rockers.  It is very driveable and is still fast.  I am running 42 DCNFs and the valves are 40 intake and 37.5 exhaust.  Makes for a fun combination.

I've always had good luck with stock rods but have never run anything more then a 78.4mm crank on the street.  Like Donny mentioned, they make for a normal width engine.  The best part is no trimming and shimming with a 78."4" stroke and "b" pistons; an easy, dependable combo to screw together.

My 2017 build is a near copycat of your combo, Sarge! ;D  Only difference I'm aware of is I'm running 45 DRLA Dells and 42x37.5mm Tims Stage II heads, but I think everything else lines up identically.

 I'll bet it runs cool too even on hot day

Yes it does.  Cruising back from Tucson two weeks ago it sat right between 175F & 195F at 75mph.  It wasn't that hot, but it was around 100F.  It doesn't seem to matter too much how hot it is outside.  It still stays within the safe range...

so 5.4 it is then ??
got my crank  aircooled is the place to shop excellent service
and my as 41 case is all stock  ;D
next it machining .
happy man

I've run both 82 and 78 stroke motors in my car.
The 82 stroke motor was gutsier, but wasn't as "sweet" and the 78 stroke motor has more character to it as well. I went 78 in my latest motors because it was what I had to use, and man it was easy to assemble, just like Sarge mentioned above. I have built 82mm motors with aftermarket H beam rods where rod and cam lobe touched, aeven after rod clearancing, requiring a smaller lobe base circle cam. No biggie.
My motor:
94 x 78
VW 311B Rimco rods
9.8:1
Web Cam 86C advanced 1.5 deg
Scat 1.4's (.579" @ valve)
44 x 37.5 044 heads by Clyde/me
48 Webers
1-3/4 header, Tiger muffler
runs cool, like Donny's, I can drive it all day long in 100F heat, oil stays @ 180F

This weekend I will put my "winter" pulley on (thru April) so it will run warm enough in the colder weather.

Jim i think that's a bit bigger then what i can afford and need moor street engine

was reading ultar vw issue 50 51 Si engine 2165 that looks interesting but sadly I'm missing issue 52

same size motor would run well with Engle 125-130 and smaller valve heads too, but I do drive mine as a real "street car", it doesn't get babied by any means. Trips to see DKP guys mean a 140-150 mile round trip, and besides that this motor sees regular trips to work and back and weekend fun runs. Without driving it, I can't know what to stay on top of as far as maintenance or what needs to be upgraded for better longevity or more refinement.

I've been toying with idea of building a 2nd motor, 90 x 74 with smaller port/valves, similar CR and 140 Engle, just for something different and less "big motor-ish"
of course, with kid # 2 coming in 3 months, this will never happen. ;D

any body tested  2165
w120 40 35 heeds
8.5  to 9 co
or is that to mild

mark herbert

82X 94   40/37.5 valves engle w120 1.25 ratio rockers

That is the motor in my stand right now - went 125 cam - same heads and c/r - will be and is a good motor

Engle 125 is one of the legend cams. Works in most anything.

Good call.

that sands promising my think a bout that.
so we have
 
as41 block
78 crank
I-beam or og vw ( i have a set needs to be looked at)
vw flywheel 8 dowel (or is it better to get a new one )
w125
40x 35 heads
8.5 to 9 comp

i,m i an the write Way ??

this motor is starting to sound like the 2007cc that hot vws put together in 1996 which can't be all bad
(http://www.hotvws.com/images/Back%20Issues/1995%20Back%20Issues/Covers/images/04%20April_95%20Cover.jpg)

162 hp without fanbelt and muffler @6000RPM never rev that baby higher...

8.04/1 compression
40/35.5 valves in not welded heads (fumio)
w 125 stock ratio rockers

but the roads are to long.....

that's excellent any body have a copy of that magazine and a scanner.
what rod ratio i,m i looking at.
i can send my 311 rods of for work if that's whats needed.
160 hp  i love that

paging Deano, Deano to the white keyboard ;)

Dean was the guy behind the article maybe he can help

that be excellent

sorry no scanner.

there are 2 articles

the first is the building
second is dyno time.....

you can ask "speedwell"

for sure he can scan!!!
you can also ask him about the dellorto drla build up article he had scanned for me....

ASK THE ARCHIVIST!!! ;D

I'm bulding that identical engine, only difference is in the heads (Steve Tims Stage II's versus Fumio's 40x35.5mm) and the carbs (45 Dells vs. IDAs).  Not to say it won't have IDA's someday...;D  Maybe someday I'll save up some coin for my first set of 'castles.'

the engine was on the dyno with 40drla 45drla (38 vents- i think to big) and 48 ida

love my steve tims stage 1 but stage 2 will be better ;)

 ;)

just what i was thinking

You know what your first thought will be after you drive it? "Wonder what it woulda been like with the 82..." ;)

My thoughts exactly Zach.  I love long stroke motors. I take the extra time to do all the clearancing, etc.  I like the displacement and torque of the long strokes and big bores.

RM

4mm more stroke...... for sure more power....... but a lot more work and parts!!!
like mr. ratto said!!!

An 82 with Chevy rods fits in the same case as a 78 with VW rods ;) To each his own :)

i have the 78 and its my first one
there is next winter

so
More parts coming and arrived
pump oil
5.5 I-rods
8 doweled flywheel
and cylinders

any bod have some heads That don't need :D

Invariably, there's no way to build a one-size-fits-all engine...I'm sure this one will become bigger someday when I have the time and funds to go more radical.  In the meantime, the 2017 combo should prove to be more than enough fun to bracket race and cruise on the streets of Lakeview, Oregon, population, 2,500.  And the majority of that population drives loud, obnoxious diesel bro trucks.  Lol.  Difference between here and the city is that bro trucks get USED, so in that regard they're not really bro trucks.  :D

I'm hoping for something faster then my old 30 hp   ;D
its a long time to may so hope its all done then

sill wondering what cam to do

5.500 rods are on the long side for a 78mm crank.
A stock 5.394 or Porsche 5.352 would make your life much easier when setting deck and valvetrain up.

explane place
The other forum i was told to get the 5,5
i can get the 5,4
if that's beater

b pistons and co max 9:1

two schools of thought of long vs short
(Really, in my opinion, the long rod is a way to get parts to clear when using 82-84-86+mm stroke.)
Aside from the mechanical end of things, meaning necessity of a long(er) rod to have things like skirts not hit counterweights, etc, some think a longer rod will make more power. This is all down to engine configuration, how well it responds to tuning, VE %, which all comes back to breathing charateristics and valve timing. In a nutshell, where you want the piston in relation to valve opening at desired rpm range. A 5.500 rod is a good fit, if needed to clear parts on 84mm-86mm crank.
I use 5.394 on my 78 stroke. Deck height with no shim @ base of cylinder (on my case) comes in right @ .061"
My take on rod length vs piston speed (within reason): you want the speed up, as long as parts are up to the task. It makes the intake ports and the carbs "think" they are on a bigger cc motor before the cam comes in. A guy I worked under said it well: "A piston sitting still ain't doing it's fair share". Which I get, though that isn't 100% true.

I would suggest 5.394 or 5.352".

I have 5.352 on my 78 stroke motor.  It makes for a narrow engine that fits well in the engine compartment.  some think that the shorter stroke actually provide a better signal for the carbs especially if you don't run a lot of compression which I don't.

OK so i have my 311 vw rods looked at
thanks

A crank with Vw rod journal size is much stronger than chevy's . I have build an 82x90.5 engine for my street car in the past dynoed at 195 hp for street and strip. I also drove it on the ciruit track . Very nice and fun engine. All you need is a good crank.
Udo

have a good crank
where can i get my rod rebid in Europa ??

This is what i do with original rods. Works great for higher rpms

Udo

Those look pretty :)

this any good

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1053251


just noticed they  are 5.325 and not 5.352  :'(

he meant 5.352  ;)

and if i am correct Taylor Walton is in DKP??? and all depends on where the damage really is...

to good to be true.
why is this going to be so hard .
my local shop have 5.5 and 5.4 I-rods not the
5.394 and is not inn my budget to spend 340 € to rebuild my old rods.
what to do  ??? 

5.394 & 5.4 is the same thing. Don't worry about .006"!

ok thanks man  ;D

OK so now we have

78.4 AA crank
8 doweled flywheel (coming)
5.4 AA rods (coming )
94 b male pistons
AA cylinders (coming )
as 41 case
26 oil pump
and some small bits and pieces

i,m drooling on the heads and carbs inn the for sale part
but think that have to wait  >:(

so what heads to go for ??

Steve tims looks good and the price is good thanks to the $$

stage1

ore save some moor money and do the stage 2

any is there any other i need to consider

Stage 2, or something similar from another head porter.

5.325 H beams have been available in the past. My 1990s Bugpack catalog has them in Chevy journal.

Go with the 82 and run a Porsche length rod in it. I ran an 82 in my 2110 road trip motor and Porsche length rods.  It makes a snappy motor at the bottom and through the mid range. It  pulls the piston down faster creating more vacuum and yes....it does affect flow in the heads and the responsiveness of the motor.

Like a couple of posts have mentioned,  it is not the size of the motor that determines the dependability. It is the quality of the parts and the build. Don and I have some fun trips where our cars performed well and they were the larger motors on the cruises.  Looking forward to it again in my even larger 2275.

Rick M

thanks Rick but i do have the 78.4 crank
and the 5.4 rods is here
and so is the forced fly wheal k-1 clutch the 94 pistons and there is a Mexico blox whetting for a trip to the  machine chop
missing heads and cam

any body have some heads for sale  ;D

i,m so excited my case is going to the Macing chop inn to Weeks
cant Wait to start hammering some engine parts to getter
have a 1.4 rockers coming and a sump
this game is expensive  ;D
but i Hope it be wort it when the summer Com's

I'm getting close... my engine is nearing completion.  Still need to dimple my head tin so I can get my intakes on, but the hardest work is pretty much done now.

with the 78 mm stroke crank use the std length 5.394" rods with the stroker pistons, no barrel shims
with the A pistons you will need to use a barrel spacer about .193" thickness

looking good bugnut
what Do you have  there

i have looked at cams
any body have any opinion
fk-8
ore one of the fk-40 seres cams

I basically copied the Hot VWs 1995 Cal-Look engine build, as well as Sarge's 2017 with minor changes...;D

I'm running a 78.4 DPR crank, stock reworked VW German rods, Engle 125 cam, 1.25 CB Performance rockers, Berg solid rocker shafts, 8.6:1 compression, Steve Tims Stage II heads (42x37.5mm valves), 1-5/8" exhaust with 2.5-inch Dynomax muffler, dual 45mm Dellorto carburetors, doghouse oil cooler, full flow oiling with filter, Scat 1.5 QT sump, 90.5 Mahle pistons/cylinders, 009 ignition (later want to try the new CB Performance Magnaspark unit!)

This is my first stroker build, and I gotta say, thanks to the machine work done by VW Paradise, it has gone together super smoothly... easier build than even my last 1776 or stock 1600 I built when in college.  Can't wait to fire it off and get 'er broken in! ;D

sounds fun man
keep us updated

No problem there... ;) I'm figuring I'll write a complete novel about my first impressions when I go for my first test drive. ;D

getting there

(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k207/fredy_66/my%2065/DSCN2047.jpg)

I forgot all about thinking I was oh so close... now I'm facing  rebuilding with another case.  Oh, fortune, how you mock me, mm'kay?  ;D

I'm preying to the good of power that i want happen to me .

If you didn't start with a 40 year old AE case that's been around the block a ton, odds are you're golden. ;D  My issues have boiled down to simply aged equipment.  Oil pressure wasn't so much an issue after all but after stripping out oil pump studs and having the helicoils pull out, I figured out my case is pretty much just tired/wore out/done.

yes i did killed a working dp 1300 to get the chase  :-\

(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k207/fredy_66/my%2065/DSCN1777.jpg)