The Cal-look Lounge

I need some input on what clutch to use. Ive been running a stock 228 pressure plate and a 4puck disk on my na 2,6 typ 4 and it has worked very good. But for next year im putting the engine in a mutch heavier car an adding a huge turbo.Im aming for 400hp and the car is an fullweight typ3. The car will be built for sreet use and some strip action 2-3 times a year. As i have 70km too closest town and 300km to nearest track it will be mostley street use. I will go for a 200mm flywheel from european motorworks and then what? pressureplate? disc?

Talk to Patte in Västerås....  ;)

KEP double discs and a adjustable, hydraulic set up would be my first choice.

hydraulic  hmm sounds like a race set up for me . i might ad that this is a low buddget build. Can get my hands on kep stage1-3 from frinds shelfs so its pressure plate-disc kombinations that will work on the street and strip im looking for.Thanks ;)

A hydraulic set up will give you flexibility and save your gearbox. And it does not need to be expensive at all and vwparts have everything you need. A double disc is not necessary as long as you have enough grip with your single clutch. Install your hydraulic pump at the front and run your line via a solenoid. Before and after the solenoid you use a T where you add a extra line via a cheap hydraulic valve. So when you push the button activating the solenoid you force the hydraulic fluid to pass the valve instead. You use the valve to adjust the clutch pressure. Once you let go of the button for the solenoid it works like a ordinary clutch.

   I have a heavy race car ( 1850 lbs w/ driver)  and it is a 2387 turbo setup.  I have dynoed it at 425 hp.  The thing that will detirmine whether or not you can get by with a single disc will be the material of the flywheel.  When I ran a lightened stock flywheel I got by with a 2700 lb pressure plate and four puck disc. When I went to a new combo and changed to chromemolly flywheel I could no longer keep it locked up.  I changed to a Tilton dual disk setup and do not slip at all, too much so and it started to break transmissions. I have added the clutch management system  " Beetlebug"  was talking about. The system is actually an adjustable bypass system.  The system consists of a master cylinder, slave cylinder, a line lock, a switch for first gear and an adjustable valve. The system is only used in first gear, it allows your clutch to slip slightly when you dump the clutch in first gear. Here is a picture of the heart of the system,

(http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k300/dragvw2180/mikenov2010003.jpg)

In normal driving it would be easy to disable the system with a simple toggle switch.  It will save your gearbox if used .     Mike

(http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k300/dragvw2180/th_080406_McCarthy_Farmington.jpg) (http://s91.photobucket.com/albums/k300/dragvw2180/?action=view&current=080406_McCarthy_Farmington.mp4)

What about a floater clutch , like the one from JayCee ?

http://www.jayceevw.com/products

Has someone "tested" that clutch ?

What disc will work with a adjustable hydraulic set up ?
Black magic or organic or both ??

John

Elnef, with a hydraulic clutch my personal opinion is that you can not have too much clutch/break away torque. I have talked to people with 600 - 700 lbs break away (cold) The KEP double system comes with 2 black magic look alike discs. But be aware, do not use a double system with a syncro gearbox. The heavy clutch will kill the rings. My choice would be a Stage 3 and a black magic.

Just trying to understand the purpose ...

The closed solenoid diverts fluid flow thru the adjustable valve for 1st gear to slow down the clutch actuation ... like a Washington Anti-shocker?
Then, when the switch is released, the solenoid opens and restores normal clutch action ... right ???

  :) Correct Sir.

Pretty cool ... somebody was using their noodle on that one.
Simple, but very effective, I'm sure. :)

And very adjustable. And most importantly - no more clutch issues :)

Just trying to understand the purpose ...

The closed solenoid diverts fluid flow thru the adjustable valve for 1st gear to slow down the clutch actuation ... like a Washington Anti-shocker?
Then, when the switch is released, the solenoid opens and restores normal clutch action ... right

exactly correct

And very adjustable. And most importantly - no more clutch issues

Even more important no more trans breakage or axles.     Mike

I know about the weight and the syncros my concern was about the black magic disk
Black magic slip a little and then hook up will that work with adjustable hydraulic setup ? can you get the same feeling with bm that you can get with a normal organic disk ?
I have a hydraulic setup on my car and bm but I had a lot other problems to deal with last year so I am not familar with the set up

Ahum  ::)  ;)

I get a feeling that you do not agree? Please share you're thoughts  :)

Hi in the end i went for a more basic setup. A 200mm flywheel and a kep stage three pressure plate.   The disc is a cb superdisc. Went for this setup on a advice from johan f from turbotown and is used by niklas with the beryl green wheelstander so i think it will work out fine for me ;D