The Cal-look Lounge

Alright, the moment is there... After stalling until the First Vollgas Meeting of last Saturday, I've started taking apart my 67.

(http://www.cal-look.nl/gallery/dvk01/CRW_0072-border.jpg)

The 1300 s/p engine is out and will receive some 85.5 pistons and barrels, higher compression and some kadrons on single port manifolds.

And after 1 1/2 year of having had the idea and the fenders a bit shorter it's finally time for some US spec fenders, i've seen lots going the same direction (which really aggrevated me  :P ) So yesterday i took my bug apart and trial fitted the bonnet and 1 fender, the bonnet doesn't have a very good fit yet, but i'm hoping to able to adjust that. Also the fenders look pretty nice already, what do the experts reckon?

(http://homepage.uvt.nl/~s682717/2.jpg)

The wheels come out nicely as well  ;D  And the tape is to indicate where the Talbot 333 mirror will go.
(http://homepage.uvt.nl/~s682717/1.jpg)

And i also have a very sweet right door to replace my own.

Engine's out too:
(http://homepage.uvt.nl/~s682717/3.jpg)

Can't wait! I'll bring to my painter this Thursday, need my dad to drive it there, hence the delay.
In the meantime I'll focus on the engine, and I hope that will turn out nicely too.

It'll be one sweet summer, though I'll have to hurry to finish all in time  ;)

nice one! hurry hurry for EBI

looks good, can't beat a US spec 67 8)

Mmmmm... upright headlamps....  :P

cheers, neighbours on the south side  ;)

definitely have to hurry hurry, but i think i'll make it -as far the current planning goes.  ;D

p.s. not even EBI, need it at Budel (16-17/06) already  8)

Hopes you make it ... there is a lot of work to do, isn't it ?

there is... the bodywork is for the specialist, i'll focus on my engine  :)

He Diederick,

Looks good, I ve always liked the long bonnet, upright fenders combo of a  us 67
So keep it going.

Kind regards edgar

Nice one deed ;) hurry  ;D

Thanks guys!

Today was the long awaited trip, finally took her away  ;)

(http://homepage.uvt.nl/~s682717/4.jpg)

Tried to tow the 67 up backwards, but because the current camber of the rear wheels (no engine) the track width was too narrow for the trailer, hence we turned it by hand;

(http://homepage.uvt.nl/~s682717/5.jpg)

Forgot to take a pic of the drop off though...
And i had to go through a stage of watching someone try out my bodywork with a screwdriver  :'( ;) ;D

I have discussed many things and decided to also weld up the antenna, next to the talbot mirror as i think it will look a lot cleaner.
I'm not too sure about welding up the indicators yet though...
(http://bp3.blogger.com/_6bVe5B-gL6E/RguiAOI6HAI/AAAAAAAAA1w/eFPGty7f6oU/s1600/vwo11.jpg)

or

(http://homepage.uvt.nl/~s682717/java.jpg)
(sorry for nicking the pics)

I don't know... I'm sure many will say shave it, but i don't really really care  :-\

Well, it will all turn out nicely i believe. I'll focus on the engine then, though that won't be within the first 10 days...

Should come over to Europe then Shubee, around here that's a big car!  I even once towed a Karmann with a Mazda 121 ::)

my dad's chip-tuned xc70  :P

 I towed my split with a New Beetle... ;D
 (http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/161120042217001.jpg)


 Anyway... Nice to see that the car is heading for the welder/painter finally...
 Can't wait to see the result!!! Did he say when he expects it to be finished?

he'll be in touch on the progress, all the things that may come up etc.

but i really need it the weekend of 2/3 June to finish it off for the meetings later that month...  ::)

 Just know that if you need it, help is just one call and 30 miles away... ;)

If you need some tools or advice, i'm always available!  ;D

Yep me too. ::)

thanks guys!!!
sounds good, i'll keep you posted on the progress!

i will also be posting some engine questions on here from next weekend on  ;D

Great, just lost my entire post here  >:( :-\
And i don't know remember what i wrote...

So, the engine is coming apart but i have a few questions:

I found some oil in 2 cylinders on the same side of the engine, i suppose this is because of the pistons rings being worn.
And as i am going to use another set of 1600 p&c, what type of rings should i use? 2.0x2.0x4.0 or 2.0x2.0x5.0 oversize rings? The cylinders are not scratched so no need to hone them i'd say. Plus this is only a BUDGET fix-up.

Also, my heads are not cracked and seem ok. But i noticed one sparkplug was only in halfway, how could i have noticed this?
But judging from the pics should i have the exhaust valves replaced? And what else? P&p? And how do i get those darn heater boxes off? They're totally stuck  :-[

Lastly, does anyone know how i can clean my case? I'm not splitting it but i do want it to look a bit cleaner...

please do have a look at the engine queries, but i'm not really digging the looks of my photoshopped rear valance...

am i the only one? i just don't think it suits the length of a 67 decklid  ::)

(http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/348314.jpg)
Here is what it looks like for real.  Daniel did the work a couple years ago, but we haven't gotten around to painting the car again.

damn, that looks hard  8)
i like the ansens as well!

(http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/258625.jpg)

 ;)

and i just noticed that your filled up the apron of the jade grenade as well...

p.s. looks like this one:
(is anyone digging it)

It Makes The Back Of the Car Look Finished No Need for the PEE SHOOTER HOLES FILL THEM!!!!!!  Heres Mine!!

Ok, perhaps it's my muffler that makes the back end look weird?

And what about the engine questions?  ;)

Thats not a 1600, its a 1300 singel port. ::)

I like the filled apron.

AS for the engine questions, all I am really good for is cleaning...

Get a couple cheap toothbrushes, some dish soap, degreaser, and whatever other aggressive cleaner you can find, and get busy!  If there is a lot of thick goo, an old paintbrush and some kerosene will loosen it up.

Thanks Mike! I started off with a toothbrush, but it was "full" after 2 minutes already  ;)

And Sander, goed gezien! But this 1300 s/p will become a 1600 s/p  8)
With some kadrons et al. Mike, did you use a balance tube? Or can i just wire the manifolds up with a fuel line?

Stiff plastic brush (like the black ones they give with alloy wheel cleaning products) + trichlo (or any other strong degreaser) + finish with a metallic brush.




Wear gloves...

do you already have some kadrons? and the matching single port manifolds?
if so,could you let me know where i can find a set of manifolds.

thx

yes i do donder, and i know the s/p manifolds are hard to get...
i was lucky on finding some, i'm still grateful for that guy selling them to me  ;)

as for the cleaning, i'd best install the cylinders before cleaning the case, otherwise i'll have all that crap going into the case  :-\

Note I said toothbrushes.   ;)

I first just ran some fuel or vacuum rubber line between the manifolds.  Now on my d/p I've tried plugging them up, and it also seems to be working quite nicely. 

Heads: are u sure they are not cracked? its sometimes hard to see!

Cleaning: install heads en make blockoff plates for all the openings, then drive to the carwash-box and have a good cleanup with some motorcleaner program there.

Heaterboxes: those are a bitch if they stuck! maybe with a nutsplitter or cutting the nuts with a dremel will do..

Valveseats: maybe only lapping will do fine (budget wise eh ;) )

Here some pictures of my 1200:

Old
(http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/23936.jpg)
New!
(http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/24040.jpg)

Cleaned at the carwash box:
(http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/24035.jpg)

Only lapping did fine for me:
(http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/24391.jpg)

Hope you have something with this..

nice martijn!
perhaps i should go visit you  ;) ;D

well, i'll get to the engine next weekend i suppose.  ::)

dunno why but i'm getting second thoughts on shaving the indicator on the front wings and perhaps the grilles, second step would be dechroming...
but perhaps i'll do that with another car at some point  :-\
any thoughts?

go for it shave and dechrome it

I agree.....except for the horn grills.  Thats a large character-less panel if you dont have the horn grills there to break it up.  My two cents  :)

i like frenchy's 67 too:
(http://www.frenchysrides.com/images/scan00664.jpg)

and it's not dechromed, i'm pretty sure i want to keep the trim as well.

but then sometimes it looked a bit like a 68 model:
(http://www.frenchysrides.com/images/scan01492.jpg)

plus with t-bars it looks slightly...
(http://www2.cal-look.com/nostalgia/spa039.jpg)

I agree. Need to keep the horn grills. Or you could mount Lucas turn signals..  With nothing there it looks like the car has 68-> fenders.

You get a clean car without the grilles. The point is to make your car stand out from the rest... or not ;-)

I liked the clean look on my car, however now it's filled with a Lucas indicator...
Do what you like best!

(http://cal-look.no/lounge/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1229.0;attach=3949)
(http://cal-look.no/lounge/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1229.0;attach=3950;image)

i think i know what i want now lads  8)
and i reckon it's gonna look the bollocks  ;D

BUT i have a major problem!
received an email of the guy who is working on my body and my left door is shot  :'(
i desperately need a new leftside 67 door to keep the project on schedule.

i realise shipping a door from the US is not an option, but can any of the germans/belgians help me perhaps?  :-\

Just a week to late, there where several for sale in Hannover, even some NOS ones for 250€/piece...
Picked one up for my project last year cause my left doore is shot too :-\

found one! and i'm hoping to pick it up this friday  ;D

back on-topic  ;)

would running a power pulley be worthwile?

the extra HP compared to the extra heat generated...

Don't think about it. :o

Sounds like a definite no  ;)

Well, i already have a normal size timing pulley so i'll probably use that one.
But Bill Fisher mentioned in his book that with the use of a power pulley etc he would gain another 15hp with that 1500 in the beginning of his book...

I don't really think it would be a problem to run a power pully...

15 hp is waaaayyyyy optimistic. I would only use a power pulley if you have good gauges (cylinder and oil) to monitor your engines temp. Otherwise, its not worth the risk.

those 15hp included stepping up to dual ports.

but i don't have the gauges yet so i'll, like al pacino says best, forget about it  ;)

15 Hp?? No way!
That book is writen in 1970, dont forgot that ;)

I have a power poulie, you can get him if you like.

thanks!
does anyone have a better guesstimation of how many horses i will gain from it?
i mean, perhaps it's not even worth it?

(http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/7021/agaveaq6.jpg)

As requested  ;D

Nice work!  But lose the trim to!  ;D

my secret has been exposed  :o
haha, i MIGHT do this. not sure yet.

but i can tell you i won't lose the trim  ;)

edit:
this is as far as my paint skills went (hope you like it mike  ;))

Please accept my sincerest condolences   ;)

That was my thinking as well. Most of the time we don't have the really high temperatures over here in europe (especially not in Norway were I live) I really don't think a power pully would give you any problems. But, I have never tried one myself..

Mmh, i'm expecting about 95F here tops...
Perhaps Sander will allow me to try out his power pulley?  ;)
You mentioned 4-5 hp, is this as much as 1.25 ratio rockers will give me?

How much does raising the CR to 8:1 or 8.5:1 give me? (stock cam)

I'm just trying to weigh possibilities against the money that i still have to spend this month  :D

I'm using the original fan of my 1300 s/p F case, does that one qualify?

Plus the bigger bore and kadrons are already accounted for  :)

I advise against raising the compression with a stock cam.

at all?

any idea what the CR will be with a 1300 s/p with 85.5 pistons?

Hey some punkass stole my turn singnals and horn grilles!   :o

I would really recommend if you're set on removing the grilles, put round indicators in their place. 

So many variables, its best to check it when you re assemble the motor. If anything, I would lower the deck (stock is around .070") to .040". That will increase CR slightly and help resist detonation at the same time.

I'm not too sure about the fenders anymore.
I found a nice set of og VW fenders, but that wanker is not selling at the price i'm asking  ::)

Dunno, perhaps i shouldn't...  :-\

 What's that wankers number :P
 Or is it the set of blue fenders from MP... ;)

why not just weld shut the holes of the fenders you already have?

jordy, username dtt on keversite.nl
i don't want to weld these fenders up cos they're really nice and it was a pain in the bottom to find them...

howeverrr, after a 5 hour journey i can say that i have successfully acquired my NOS-ish 67 door!
i went to pick it up by train, and the way back was kind of funny! talk about turning heads  ;D

it's not the people on the train that wonder, it's when you get off and you come walking out with a car door on your shoulder that is f*cking hilarious!!
i literally had to face the ground while walking or i'd burst into laughing cos of the people looking at me in awe  ;)

there we go, 2 little dents but that should be a problem. thanks wesley!

the photos have landed!
works is in progress, but this gives an idea (at least it did for me)  ;D

 I had the same with picking up my bumper and tyres... lol... ;D
 People really stare at you as if you're a lunatic... ;D soooo funny....
 
 I can imagine people will stare even more if you're dragging a door around... ;D

 Good to see he's already started working on your car. Hope it's finished in time...
 

Wow, thats a lot of work to do. I didn't know it was a total respray.

Are you sure that your car is in Budel about 4/5 weeks now? :o

Yup, the pick-up date is set on the Saturday the 2th on June  ::)

I'm hoping we can make it, otherwise it will be a tight schedule.
Cos i'm away the weekend after, so either that 2th or a few days later during the week.

I'm crossing my fingers  ;)
But I definitely have good faith in the final result  ;D

we installed the pistons and barrels today, measured the deckheight and we got to 1.85mm (though we need a spacer for 3&4 cos they are .3mm off...)

assuming a stock combustion chamber is 54cc (isn't it), this brings me to a compression ratio of 7.13:1
does this make any sense?

and i found out today that my 1300 s/p heads need to be opened up for 1600 cylinders  >:(
even more work now...

I would look for a set of 15/1600 single port heads in good condition... they also have larger valves.
Stock heads have about 52cc's in the chambers, but I wouldnt guess on how large your chambers are due to production variances and you never know if they may have been machined in the past.
You can have the tops of the cylinders machined down for 1mm (.040") deck height for best performance.
52cc's and 1mm deck height would give you 7.9:1.

zach, but wouldn't i need to cut my pushrods then? or can i shim the rockers?

and i am looking around for other heads too  ;)'
i hope i will find some

The rockers may be shimmed.

Ok, let me figure this out. I would need a .5mm shim for one side and a .8mm shim for the other side?
It all depends on how much time i have left and if i can find a place to machine them...  ::)

A pic of my brother and me yesterday shot by JeePee, just before calling it a wrap:
(http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/3726/pict0001po3.jpg)

i guess this is the long awaited scoop then  :P

well, as i went on holidays after my last post in this thread today was the day to get to business again.

i picked up my 1500 sp heads this morning at Sander's place. he did a nice porting job on them of which should certainly be able to reap the benefits off:
(http://img238.imageshack.us/img238/1565/afbeelding500br8.jpg)

after cleaning the heads thoroughly i fitted some spacers under 2 cylinders to get to an even deckheight of 1.85mm, i would've incurred a lot more costs if i were to go for a higher CR and i reckon it's not worth it at the moment, certainly not since it started out as a budget upgrade  :D

i then installed most of the engine tin that has been powdercoated for a nice finish. i still have to get the fanhousing to fit nicely though. it's an aftermarket piece and it's about 5mm too tall where it rests on the engine case (behind the generator). perhaps i should just vile it off or use a dremel? i know i should trial fitted it, but it's all a bit of a last minute job.

this what it looks right now - don't mind the fingerprints  ;D :
(http://img175.imageshack.us/img175/7903/motordiederickeh4.jpg)

lastly i send out my flywheel to get it lightened.

as you can see we have a few more things to do next weekend before we can test it. the only bummer is that i found my thunderbird header cracked, so the leak wasn't in the heater boxes after all  :-[

tightening the last few bolts of that day:

(http://img512.imageshack.us/img512/1772/dsc00773bb1.jpg)

Looks good Diederick,
Kinda always liked the Kadrons.

Alright, here's the latest scoop...

A B*TCH IS BORN  ;D

Yes, it does feel good hearing your engine come to life after a few weeks of work  :)

I picked up my flywheel today (7 kilograms) and so we started building up the engine from "longblock" to "turnkey", the final result:
(http://img123.imageshack.us/img123/7817/img5905xn5.jpg)

At first the engine wouldn't fire as my fuel pump didn't deliver any fuel to the carbs, but after we connected an electronic fuel pump it did come to life  ;D

Here are the two videos we shot when we cranked up the engine:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GVdHCtFseNM (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GVdHCtFseNM)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DewxH7GbOXQ (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DewxH7GbOXQ)

Yes i was very excited and happy in the first video, and honestly the engine just sounded scary at first. It's sooo loud, but that doesn't really show in the video that we took though... In the second video you can see us feeling the leaks in the header  :-\

So, one successful day then. With two questions of mine;
- there is no thread in the fanhouse, so where should i mount my coil then?
- and i was wondering about the fuel pump, but i'll have to find that out myself  ;)

The downside is, i'm broke literally spend all my money on the engine.
The good, it seems to work fine.

CHEERS!!!

Sounds good!  Get those exhaust leaks fixed, tune up the Kads, and you will LOVE it.

Yesterday's progress on the motor:
(http://img230.imageshack.us/img230/9734/pict0001fo0.jpg)

We fitted a 1 1/2" merged header and dual QPs from Bugpack, the only downside is that the j-pipe runs underneath the pushrod tubes and so that part of the engine tin doesn't fit anymore...
Aren't these actually 2 problems? The exhaust may heat up the cylinders AND the engine tin may provide less cooling??
What do you think?  ??? ::)

Another little vid of the engine. The sound is a lot more decent now that the new exhaust has been fitted. But i have no clue whether the timing and carbs are still tuned up correctly.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FjWNDz4ncIw (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FjWNDz4ncIw)

Tonight I will hear whether my car gets painted tomorrow and then i can collect it, build it up on Thursday and be ready for Budel this weekend.
Such a close call  ::) :-\

Yeah right...

The car will receive paint tomorrow...
It's gonna be an exciting race to get it sorted in time.

N.b. Yvre, if you look at the photos on page 1 you see it's not a body-off or anything so I reckon it's not a mission impossibile  ;)

Good Luck Getting in Done On Time Diederick Should Look Great when you get it all back together!!

Thanks Shubee!
I can't wait to get behind the wheel and drive home tomorrow evening (hopefully)

I've got everything sorted for tomorrow, now let's hope that knob sprays on the paint first thing  ;D

P.s. shubee, do you know the answer to my query?
We fitted a 1 1/2" merged header and dual QPs from Bugpack, the only downside is that the j-pipe runs underneath the pushrod tubes and so that part of the engine tin doesn't fit anymore...
Aren't these actually 2 problems? The exhaust may heat up the cylinders AND the engine tin may provide less cooling??
What do you think?

No thats not a Problem as long as you have the deflectors above the push rod tubes that snap in to the lower head studs its not a Problem almost all merge exhaust systems  are the same way yours is the tin under the push rod tubes is more of a protector from something getting thrown up and bending  a push rod tube there are also two types of Deflectors the small early type  kind of square looking  and the late type which they also call cool tin it wraps around the bottom of the cly's they flow more of an evan flow of air then the early type 

The second type you refer to are the ones meant for type 3 engines, right?
I do intend to use those on my next engine  8)

Cheers for answering Shubee!

I hope that tomorrow I can show you a rear end pic of my '67 w/ filled apron, t-bars, and dual QPs on a merged header  8)

Last question; i'm still in doubt about getting a pair of stand-offs.
You think I need them?  ::) I mean it's a s/p engine case with the smaller oil galleys, no doghouse oil cooler, and no vert decklid...

I think Stand offs are more for looks  then anything else the air gets in but cant get out I think it works better by making a bracket to bring the bottom of the deck lid out about 2 to 3 inches on your year you can just get  two longer 6 mm bolts and make two tubing spacers to go behind the stock bracket  it runs cooler and you dont have to worry about the rain getting in and the spring still holds the deck lid up

Oops, I had forgotten about that... Good luck then...
As for the stand offs, I think they look ugly. If you don't have overheating problems, leave the back-end alone, it looks much cleaner (IMHO)...

i totally forgot to mention that my car hadn't received paint yet when we went to pick it up  :'(
i was so disappointed!

but i found peace listening to my fav music  ;)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o4fQsZVVj-E (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o4fQsZVVj-E)

and as i have exams after the weekend, it means that i'll have to build it up the week before EBI and burn rubber... cos i wanna drrrrriiiiivvvvee so badly  ::)

so, i will be hitching a ride in my brother's restolooker to go to Budel tomorrow  :-[

Do you call that music?
Give me a 2180 with 48 IDA's.
That's my fav.music. ;D

big update coming up tomorrow (and the day after)  ;D

This morning:
(http://img185.imageshack.us/img185/2796/p1010023to8.jpg)

10 pm:
(http://img185.imageshack.us/img185/7163/p1010030mw1.jpg)
(http://img185.imageshack.us/img185/9972/p1010032yc5.jpg)

Need I say much more?  ;)

I hope we'll get there in time  ::) ;D

Car Looks Great Glad to see you filled the rear apron is the color Java Green?   

Thanks shubee!
Yes it is java green, it's been painted with a sort of old style paint to get the authentic look.

WOW!! Beautifull!! Hang in there and get it to Bug-In!!

Looks great D!  But, you won't see this until later since you are out in the garage putting your car together, right???

Looks very good Died. !!
Again GOOD LUCK with finishing your car before EBI  ;) See you there !

This morning:

(http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/4646/p1010037bk1.jpg)

And 12 hours later:

(http://img176.imageshack.us/img176/8149/p1010049xz8.jpg)

I'm completely knackered, all my muscles ache.

But I hope you can dig the result  8)

I've just got one big problem now, after my 40 min drive home my engine was covered with oil drops.
Now, i know that little tube attached to the oil filler is "open" on both sides, but could that be the problem?
Or could it be, could it be that...  :D -sorry- i need a breather box? I mean i'm driving to Chimay on friday and I don't want to mess up/break my car or engine  :-[

The other issue left are my windows in the doors that haven't been installed yet, is there anyone that would volunteer at EBI?  ;D ;)

Good nigh!

you bet, mike  ;)

didn't you have the oil issue as well?
what did you do to it? and did you have the same oil tube that goes all the way down towards the exhaust?

thanks paul  :)

I really, really like it.  Are the windows going to be one-piece, or vent wings?  I've been back and forth on de-chroming my car when the time comes.  This helps.   8)

I do have a similar oil problem, altho yours seems to appear quicker?  Mine was very bad during a 3-hour drive.  If I am out for about an hour, its not really a problem.  I have not done anything yet, but I would say prepare to work up a breather setup.  My oil filler tube is gone, I have the 3-prong screw-in cap with a fitting on the end.

Oh yeah...notice any difference with the "upgraded" engine?

If you take the Oil cap off with the engine running Dose it have much Blow By or Pressure?? If it Dose it could be that you did not stager the ring gaps or you might have Broke a Ring Putting the barrels on I would do a Compression check First a Breather box might help but for your size motor it should not need one

Shubee, I'll try that first thing! I hope it's not a piston ring though....  :-[
On the other hand i remember i put in too much oil, and if you check the oil level it indicates that the level is above the highest stripe on the dipstick.

Mike, they're vent wings and it's in on the right side, but the slide mechanism isn't. I wonder whether i'll get that done before EBI. Also, I now regret not having dechromed the car. I still need to put the trim on, but it looks so good like this.
Well I can't do anything about it anymore, so I should stop thinking about it  ;)

I definitely noticed a difference during my first drive. But i broke the accelerator cabe 2 months ago and I forgot. So i noticed when we put the cable all the way in the linkage but then the idle was like 2000rpm. But i could go full throttle and man those kadrons make some noise. Before going home we adjusted it and the idle is a bit lower but i can't go full throttle now...

Looking super cool Diederick! Good work!  8)

The other thing it could be is the metal Defector plate between the case and the alternator stand it could be in wrong and it is letting the oil getting sprayed up off the cam and crank gears to much oil can do it too  just some things to check

I can't even see the trim holes in the pic.  I really thought you went for it. 

I know Mike, you should go for it cos i regret it big time.

Shubee, I think i lost quite a bit of oil already... like half a litre i guess.
Are there any things i could check without having to take the engine out and apart?
I'm gonna see if i can find a breather box i guess, i need to get some parts now anyways...

Could that be of any help?

The other thing it could be is the metal Defector plate between the case and the alternator stand it could be in wrong and it is letting the oil getting sprayed up off the cam and crank gears to much oil can do it too  just some things to check  With to much oil in the motor it will try to blow it out anywhere it can Hope fully thats all it is Did you check it with the oil cap off? dose it have Pressure?  can you tell where the oil is coming from? is it coming from behind the Pulley?  it could be the Oil Slinger on the crank  is missing or on backwards It is hard to say these are just things it could be not saying they are but a Compression check might tell you if its a ring   A question are you running the stock oil fller and cap? if so to you have a hose going from the top oil filler tube to the right air cleaner base? or do you have the vent caped off?  The Motor has to be vented some how or it will blow oil everywhere  I hope its nothing major  keep in Touch.. let me know what you find

hi shubee,

thanks a lot for helping me out! i can't really tell where the oil is coming from, something tells me it is also coming from behind the pulley, but i didn't split the case though it could be the aftermarket pulley i'm running.

furthermore, i'm gonna let it run with the cap off in a minute, but i can already feel some pressure coming out of the top of little tube next to the filler cap cos there is no hose connected to it:

(http://img176.imageshack.us/img176/6281/p1010044lu1.jpg)

EDIT : i also bought some used valve covers with those things for breather hoses, but i have no breather box or anything.

what should i do?  :-\

if you have Pressure I would do a compression test also a leak down test to see if compression is getting by the rings and causing the Crankcase pressure  if it is a new Pulley that was not on the motor before it could also be leaking oil from behind the pulley but that wont cause crankcase pressure you can try a breather box but that is not going to fix the problem it may keep it from leaking for a while but if you have a broken ring or you could have even lost a wrist pin c clip which will  wear a groove in the barrel also causing pressure with any of the things I mentioned your motor will also not have the power it should due to loss of compression   I hope its not  anything to Bad but do check what I told you..

ok, i got the accelerator cable hooked up, but due to time right now which is 2 am i didn't get to fire up the engine.
although it seems to be a lot smoother now  :)

i'll get to the windows and oil issue tomorrow morning.
shubee, i think it may be my aftermarket pulley that is causing the leak...  :-\

Motor looks good in the car!

The problem with the Aftermarket pulleys is they are mostly made in China the groves that are cut in them to retain the oil are cut closer to the pulley and a lot of time the oil is flung out instead of going back in to the case the only Pulley to run is an old santana or a Berg Pulley they are a little more money but well worth the Money Good Luck and  let me know what you find

well, this is a good lesson i'm learning here  ;)

but could it do much harm to the engine? of course i need to keep checking the oil level...
or is there any way i could stop it?

the problem is that i noticed the thread in the crank for the pulley bolt is pretty worn as well. so it's not like it's an easy swap i guess.

ok, i adjusted the accelerator cable and i can definitely go full throttle  :o
but the idle is still way too high!! how do i adjust the carbs and push/pull mechanism correctly?

but there NO way i can go to EBI like this, the oil drips out like crazy and it's just get toasted on the merged header  :(
i really need to put in another pulley. but forgot my other one at jeepee's place.

Some of the Aftermarket chrome Pulley bolts are longer then stock if you are worried about the threads  I perfer the Stock VW Factory Parts But you have to do what you have to  to make it work for you as far as the linkage pop the linkage off both carbs and start up the car then adjust the idle on each one till it idels smooth and the rpm is in range  then adjust the rod that goes from carb to carb if the rpm goes up you will have to adjust the linkage ends on the rod either making it longer or shorter so it still idles at the same rpm then shut it off  move the linkage bar make sure both carbs are opening all the way once that is done you can hook up the center short linkage rod and adjust your cable.  this goes to show you that aftermarket parts are Crap its better to pay a little more and cry once  :'( :'( then to have to do the job twice  let me know how things go   depending on the crank bolt you use most aftermarket ones have crappy threads  made in china 

thanks shubee, i'll get to the carbs once i have fixed the leak on the pulley.

could it be that i have to put the aftermarket pulley further in? using a hammer...
i tried to undo the pulley bolt, but the pulley just turned with it. eventhough it was in 1st gear and i had my brother hit the brakes...

i don't know anymore  :-\
but i really need to get it fixed and head of Chimay

Try putting it in reverse...or in first gear with some helpers pushing the car forward while you are leaning on the pulley bolt with a long bar.  I think you'll need a ton of leverage for as tight as it sounds.

If you have a stock pulley, try that for a bit. 

The funny thing is that the car didn't move anymore but i just turned the crank.
Though it felt a little elastic... If I let go of my wrench it jumps back to the initial position.

Also, i feel there is a little bit too much white smoke coming out of my quiet packs.
And the smell is pretty bad, could it be that my mixture is too rich? I know i need to check my plugs and i will do that as well. But could it be? And is the mixture easily adjusted or should steer clear of such precise work?

how tight did you tighten the pulley bolt? it has a torqe setting if the crank turned and the car stayed still you were just breaking the clutch loose not to worry BUT the White Smoke? could it be Light Blue or Grey? if it is You have a Ring Problem Pull the Plugs and see what they look like see if any are wet with oil  as far as the pulley bolt use a breaker bar but dont put the new one on so tight you could have over tightened it and drove the pulley in to far and bent the oil slinger back and  now it dose not ride against the case  a Quick fix for this without spliting the case is buy a Bolt One Sand seal Pulley kit that will take care of the leak at the pulley But Check your Plugs Make Sure theres no oil on them

hi shubee, i don't know about the pulley. one thing i'm sure of is that i can't undo it at the moment as the pulley/engine will just turn along with the bolt. but i tried to tighten it a bit more, so i'll have to go for a ride to see what it's like now.

about the plugs. i undid number 4 and 2 respectively, this is what they look like:
(http://img153.imageshack.us/img153/6590/p1010055kn4.jpg)

what do you think? number 4 looks a bit oily and 2 is fine. 1 and 3 are a mother to undo due to manifolds...

i know i'm a dick for not having replaced the rings in the first place, i guess this is the moment where i'll have to cry (once i hope)
but could i drive with this problem? what will it do to my engine? is it worth taking a risk? i wouldn't mind taking apart the engine after EBI i guess...

If you can tolerate the mess for the weekend, just run it.  Keep an eye on the level, and everything else, but it should really be fine.

what did you replace on your motor? I thought you put a new top end on it?  if you used the old Pistons and Cyls  did you mix up the Barrels and Pistons?  or are the same pistons in the same cyls?  I did not Know you used the Old  Pistons and Barrels and Old Rings It is not going to hurt anything to take it to EBI just watch your oil closely but  I am afaid that The Motor is going to have to come back apart Buy yourself a set 87 mm Pistons and Clys dont Bother with the old ones by the time you have the barrels honed and re ring them  you will have almost the same amount of cash in them  if you have more Questions on the motor just E Mail Me shubee2@msn.com  how far will you be driving the car to EBI?

I was Just Looking back at this Thread Did you Change the Heads on the Motor? I was looking at the Pickures of the heads with the Heater boxes still attched # 4 cyl in that Picture also has a lot of oil in the picture My  Question is are they the same heads? I know you lapped the valves But Did you Change the Valve Guides?  The motor can be sucking oil in threw the valve guides let me know I am Trying to help you out

shubee, i really really appreciate your help  :)

this was my first build and i definitely messed some things up, just let me know so i can learn from it for the next build.

here's the story, i'll try to answer all your questions  ;)

yes, i did change the heads, but i used the old plugs as they looked fine and had only been run for about 1500 miles.
the bore of my old heads was too small and yes they were pretty messed up with the heater boxes not coming off etc.
i did not change the valve guides, but my clubmate who ported them told me he ground (or something) the valves specifically, so i wasn't supposed to swap them. perhaps he can fill me in better on this  :P

about the old p&c set. i mixed up the pistons and barrels, i didn't keep them matched. this because it took the other motor apart back in november i think and i learned a lot over the last few months. i should've done this differently i guess. i just had dinner, but i decided i'll probably take the motor apart again after the weekend and fix the piston ring issue - might do 1641 indeed! and perhaps fix the pulley issue as well.

i should actually go for a test ride any time soon to see what it's like and i'll bring enough paper with me on the way to EBI to clean the mess if there is still oil then...

the ride is about 320 miles in total, and i guess i'll leave tomorrow morning  8)

i'll get back to work, but i'll check the lounge later on.

just wanna say i realllllyyy appreciate your help!!

You are going to have to  replace the Pistons and Clys you cant mix them when there used do to the wear pattern and the location you also need to Replace the valve guides  Drive your car around a little today see how it goes if it blows oil out the small vent tube you can put a hose on it and make a meg shift Catch Can so any oil will go in to the catch can (even an old oil bottle will work) I know you worked really hard to Get this Far and you Deserve to get the car to EBI we all make mistakes in life but hopefully we all learn from them  cutting corners is not a good thing  you can build a motor on a budget  let me know how your ride goes  just keep checking the oil level it should be fine for the weekend just hope you dont have to much cleanning to do E mail me if you have a question on the catch can and how to do it

hi shubee, thanks a lot.
i let the engine idle for over 5 minutes in our garage and i also tried to adjust the idle on the kadrons.

my observations were:
- a little bit of neat white smoke, not blue gray
- the right quiet pack stuttered a little, perhaps my right kadron is just off sync.
- and the strangest of all is an irregular ticking sound in the engine. i figured it may be a rocker arm ticking or perhaps a rod?  :o

but leaky oil so far :)

?  leaking? or no leaks?   Have fun at EBI  Let me know how things go you might want to run the valves just to make sure

it's 2:20 am and i just finished working on my car...  :-\
the hours i put into it this week!! i'd better get there tomorrow.

sorry shubee, i meant no oil leaks. i'm going for a test drive tomorrow and if that turns out well, we'll head off.
i should probably go through the valves, but the sound i heard had an almost irregular beat to it.
can't figure it out yet...

you're absolutely right jim, i'm learning big time here  ;)
but also things i thought i wouldn't be able to install, like my talbot mirror (yes, it's on... i drilled the holes etc.) and the windows in the doors and all that comes with it. it looks so darn neat right now, i'm so proud  ;D  but i couldn't have done it without my brother's help!

Good Luck at EBI

thanks shubee, but i won't be with my own ride.

just got back home after having to pull over on the motorway, smoke was coming into the car.
so i check the engine and oil was dripping and getting toasted everywhere. i guess i have to tear apart the engine after the weekend...

but i'm leaving right away, we'll take my brother's 69. but so much for my show n shine spot  :'(

well keep in touch I will help  you with what I can hope you have a Good Time

i definitely had a good time nonetheless!
it was very cool meeting some of you, eventhough it was sometimes only briefly.

still i wanna share a picture of what i would've brought to EBI  ;)

(http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/5140/p1010162zy3.jpg)

and my brother posing next to the back end, after the long drive home (note the oil on the QPs)

(http://img521.imageshack.us/img521/2905/p1010156sh1.jpg)

i still need the put the chrome trim on  ;D

about the engine, i'm afraid i have to split the case this time... after i tried to undo the bolt of the pulley and trying to get it in further i have this strange metal click that comes up very irregularly. but my guts tell me it might be a connecting rod bearing or something, could it? i also think that if it's to much work getting everything sorted and buying new pistons and barrels i might as well build up a 1776 in a mexican case i have lying around and put the kadrons on that one...

good night for now.

Car Looks Great except for the OIL on the Mufflers and Ground  :'( here is another Question did you put the pistons on the right way? the arrow on the top points toward the flywheel if the facing the wrong way the motor could have a knock  but either way it needs to come a part

thanks shubee!  :)

i'm pretty sure i put the pistons on properly because it read somewhere on the lounge that someone didn't etc...
but also, i'm pretty sure it happened after i started messing around with the crank pulley. at first i thought it could've been a loose rocker arm, but after i ran down the valves the sound was still there.

are your front turn signals the ones like they use in Italy? I have been looking for some nos Lenes for them?

they are imitations and perfect DIY examples, they were on when i bought the car  ;)

I have a set of Originals but the lenses I have seen for sale are clear and amber but dont have the lines on the sides of the lens you can see the bulb holder threw them on the new ones

hi people, i went on holidays after EBI and i just got home tonight.
and i really need to sort out my engine, cos i need to drive my car.

i heard it will be around 30C this weekend, so i'd love to take it to the beach :)

anyway, i mentioned a while ago that i think i'm hearing a cling (weird metal sound) in the engine after i tried to slap in the crank pulley further. now, i shot this video tonight, but the quality of the sound ain't ace. please try to hear it, i think it gets obvious to hear after 1 minute:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=av21ZQZBnZg (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=av21ZQZBnZg)

please let me know if you think it may be a vital mess-up, or look at the belt, could i have beaten up my crank pulley?
well, i need a bolt-in sand seal pulley now anyhow...

gimme some advice.  ;)
cheers!

did you check to see that the sheet metal behind the pulley is not hitting the inside of the pulley? also did you take the flywheel off the motor? if so you could have to much end play and the crank is moving back and forth? take the car out of gear with the motor shut off get to big screw drivers push the crank pulley in with you hand then put a screw driver on each side behind the pulley and pull toward you How much dose the Crank move??

Shubee, I will try that out shortly! I have also shot a better video to hear the weird sound, but it's on my own camera so i can't upload it on this pc. Need my own cable to hook it up...
Does a broken piston ring result in a weird sound? I'd rather replace those than some rod bearings  :-\

Two nice pics my brother shot right before we intended to leave for EBI:

(http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/830/betterin8.jpg)

Yeah I know, I should've posed a bit better there  :P ;)

(http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/6633/niceho2.jpg)

I guess the few days-old paintwork allowed for an amazing reflection  8)

Cool car dude!!!

cheers, Peter

Car Looks Great

thanks guys!

well, today we're at it to sort out the engine as you can see:

(http://img116.imageshack.us/img116/8702/img6052ua7.jpg)

the pulley came off like it was buttered after we removed the bolt with a huge wrench that we borrowed.
so i'm guessing that's how it was allowed to leak so badly. so (1) i'm gonna step back to my stock VW pulley with one of those chromed longer aftermarket bolts? right?

but then... the funny sound that i and my brother only seem to hear, and that doesn't really translate on the video i posted...
when i now turn the engine by the flywheel there is a dead point where it gets tough to turn it by hand, is this normal?
i figured it may be a broken piston ring, but i already dissassembled one side and the seem to be ok. it's just that the rings look dirty...

(http://img116.imageshack.us/img116/5033/img6061ky6.jpg)

so (2) would it make sense to replace all 3 piston rings with new ones without honing the cylinders?
and (3) shubee, my aluminium oil thingy underneath the generator stand should face downwards right?  :-[ ;)

however, in the worst case scenario it may again be a rod bearing or something. but what should i do? fix the pulley and run the engine again and see how long it lasts IF the ticking noise continues or should i strip and split the case and check everything? remember, if it's gonna cost quite a bit i'd rather invest in a larger engine  ;)

i'm a bit lost now, please let me know what to do.

p.s.
my combustion chambers don't look too bad, right?
(http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/1539/img6062nr5.jpg)

 Were the heads still on or did you feel it after removal of the heads?
 If the heads were still on the resistance you felt was just the engine building compression in one cilinder...

they were still on, so you are probably right about that!  :)

The Deflecter under the Gen, Stand is upside down in the picture, the heads still look like alot of oil has been leaking threw the rings or valve guides if you want to get away cheap I would Put a New Set of 87mm pistons and cyls on it have a valve job done on the heads  replacing the guides, and I would Flycut the heads .50 thousands as far as a Pulley go's I would either use the stock one or a Good Quality  Alum, one (Santana, or one from Gene Berg)  And Run It  Just make sure when you put the new pistons on stager the ring gaps  so none of them line up and make sure none of the gaps are on the bottom..   E Mail me if you need somthing shubee2@msn.com

I just noticed your Trunk Latch on the rear apron is upside down??

you might be right about the heads, this is what they looked like several test runs and 80 miles ago:

(http://img252.imageshack.us/img252/1249/afbeelding503rx7.jpg)

and you're also right about the latch  ;)

what does it mean if 3 out of 4 pistons are sticky at the flat ends??

i'm really trying to figure out whether the piston rings are to blame or the valve guides...

it dosent really matter both need replacing the rings stick because of the built up carbon in the ring glands  if you try patching up what you have now  you are throwing money away put a new set of pistons and clys and have a complete valve job done to the heads I would also flycut the heads .050 thousands   you will be sorry if you try a new set of rings the problem is your motor is older and the pistons and clys have wear but when you pulled the motor apart you did not mark the piston to the barrel by mixing them up  even with new rings you are asking for trouble  if the pistons were new or even  used  but marked to the barrel they came out of it would be different..  you are looking at about $200.00 to get off cheap then you can save your cash for your new motor you want to build

Alright, I get your point.

I think I will settle for a new set of 85.5s, I don't think I wanna go for 87s as it's a single relief case.
But you mean the heads need to get cleaned up?

P.s. I think flycutting the heads already costs about $150 over here...

Or buy a set of Los Banditos (http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=1470) for almost the same money.
Sell the manifolds, and make a copple of new ones.

i would still use 87's it dosent matter that is a single relief case yes i would redo the heads new guides,valve job and surface or flycut them you could put some dual ports on it for not much more $$ but then you need manifolds and dual port tin  I would just like to see you enjoy your car now that you went to all the trouble to redo it. there are just some things you cant go cheap on

The guys has a student budget, so every € is one euro ;)

As i said on the cal-look.nl forum i would go for a new set of cilinders/pistons 85.5. Keep the heads as they are. (or maybe some new mex.heads :) ?)

Then do a good rebuild with stock parts, no fancy stuff..

just uploaded a new video that i shot with my own camera...
i haven't opened the youtube vid yet as it's not ready yet, but on my pc it was very audible  ::)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RMs6qTIpv00 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RMs6qTIpv00)

now what can it be?  :-[

that noise could be a number of things the Problem is the engine is out and apart now and its kind of hard to try differnt things  I t is kind of hard to Help because I dont know what you can afford to spend fixing it? all I can tell you is what I would Do  but what you do is up to you keep in touch I will try to help in any way I can

i received the diagnose of my heads today.
and all i can say is that my heads are in pretty bad shape as far as the valve guides and valves go.
they're pretty much beyond the "minimum state"

the quote i got for repairing them is quite high, read total rebuild.
i'm hoping i can get them rebuild with good used valves and new guides and some labour on the valve seatings.

crossing my fingers   :)

Dont use used Valves?? you are asking for trouble all you need is to get your engine back together and then drop a valve/ I would look in to a rebuilt set of heads or put a wanted add on the lounge I am sure someone has upgraded there motor here  come on guys help him out!!

 Don't put any more money into this engine. Buy some nice 40x35 DP heads, a 87mm piston/cyl kit (slip in) and a 74mm counterweighted crank (slip in too) and build a 1760cc.... In the meantime you could "snail" around town with a decent 1200...

if you don't drive like a mad men you can borrow my 1300 engine, it's only 6V but you can change that over from your old engine..
so enjoy my 1300 and save up for a decent engine and don't put a lot of effort into nothing here

Now Thats A Deal you cant turn Down there are some Loungers out that are ready to Help.

Thats very nice of you indeed Hanz!!

mine is almost totally apart so won't be driving for a while, and when it is ready it will be with a bigger engine and this one,is for spare, so now he can start his life as a spare engine ;D

PM sent Hans!  :)

It feels good to have a motor in 67 again:

(http://img112.imageshack.us/img112/4552/p1010394ma5.jpg)

I put it in today with some occasional help of my mum!!! haha  :D

Thanks Hans!!

Glad to hear its Driving dude  :)

Congrats  Diederick on getting your car on the Road also A Big Thank You Should go out to Hanz for Helping out a Fellow Lounger That is Really what its all about Helping one another and sharing Stories and Tech Info. we are Really One Big VW Family all In to the Same Thing even tho we do Like Different Things.   Now Diederick you Can Take your time and Build Your new motor With NEW PARTS and a C.W. Crank LMAO ;D ;D ;D

 ;D  let's hope he finds some rest an will take the time to build the engine he wants. And keeping a 67 on the road is alway a good feeling

thanks people!!

i guess i'll soon start a new topic on my engine project then, but first i need to sort out the funding of that engine  :P
so, we'll see about that c/w crank  :D

Buy the C.W. Crank! Wait On The Carbs, A Strong Bottom End is The Key to Longivity In a VW Engine If you want the Motor to Perform and Last Build it Right  it may take Longer but it will pay off in the end. I think most Loungers in here will Agree Dont Go Cheap on the Bottom end Bigger Heads and Bigger Carbs Can Always Be Added down the Road If Money is Tight..

Save for the CW Crank, godverdomme ;)

 Tell me when you're ordering your stuff... I might need parts as well...

Me too...

And me.. ;D

haha cool!  8)

i came to realise i didn't put many good pictures up since it's on the road again...
here is my brother taking a picture of the car and me, thinking i'm hiding, on our way to DDD.

(http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/6223/offtodddqk6.jpg)

Looks great......... Love the color!!!

Shiny Java Green.   8) 8) 8)

Im glad we talked you out of the ragtop! Looking very good!! :)

Haha Zach, I was just thinking about that last week.
I still wouldn't have mind  ;)

But thanks for the compliments.
IMHO I still have (quite) some work to do.
But hey (€€) gotta take it easy  :D

so my question is, when the hell is the big motor going in? These 94's are getting sick of sitting on my workbench! ;D

I see you still haven't put the trim back... Regretting not dechroming the car?
You could always paint the trim green to match the car - I haven't seen this trick in a long time.

the big motor is going in as soon as it's been built  ::)
 ;D definitely before next season

and yvre, yes i regret it big time.  :-\
still i'm going to put the trim on, but i need to get new trim pieces for under the quarter windows as my own aren't straight.

mmh, match painting the trim... what does everyone reckon  ;)

i felt like tinkering yesterday so i swapped the rear shocks with my brother to get the back up a tad, to get a nicer rake and to get clearance the muffler.
now i run coil over shocks in the rear and the back end has been raised by like 5cm.

i will adjust the coil over shocks to the lowest setting (does anyone know how much this changes the height)
but i've also heard that installing a larger engine also lowers the back end because of the added weight.
is this true, and/or does this only count for stroker engines?  ;)

The Trim would look good Painted Body Color they do it on Porsches and Corvettes so why not Bugs as Far as the rear height it is to High for my Taste your car Looked better before you raised the rear if you could split the difference between how it was before and how it is now it would look ok  I like the top of the fender edge to be right at the top of the tire. so you see the full tire but no gap between just my 2 cents  How is the New Motor coming?? or Do Like Hans Motor Better LOL ;D ;D

hehe, my b-day is this friday so i'm gonna treat myself by sending out my case for machining  ;)
but i've got all the specs figured out. and i've got the next updates for my 67 in mind. however, money is the issue  :-\ ;)

thing is i'm gonna try the match painted trim, i only have 1 bonnet trim ('67 only) so i gotta be sure or do it in 2 steps.

also, i agree with the rear height gary! but i will see how it turns out when i adjust the coil overs.
does anyone how to do this?  ::)

depends on the coil overs you have the ones I have seen the bottom spring collar rides on two stops you have to compress the spring and rotate the lower spring collar to the lowest setting most shocks have three settings I have always found that the coilover shocks are stiff they were used more for a Baja then a Street Car 67's have soft torison bars thats why the sit low you could always adjust the preload on the rear bars

those are the ones i have, but how do i compress them?
i know i should adjust the torsion bars, but then i'd have to call in favour again. cos i still haven't fully figured that out myself.

they are stiff indeed, but it's not that uncomfy i reckon.

but i'm aiming for a rake like harvey rosenthal's 66, which i think is purfect  8)

the way I use to do them  is take them off the car so there fully open but the bottm eye of the shock in a vise and use a pir of channel locks to rotate the collar what setting are they on now?  if it were me I would put a pair of the White KYB gas A Just Shocks on the rear they will raise the car almost 1 inch and they ride good never use them in the front there to stiff.

i used grey KYBs before this.
they are now on the lowest setting which means the highest overall length. so i should be able to lower the rear 2 more clicks.

those coil over shocks are typically made with a poor quality shock that gets "overworked" from the coil and torsion spring, and will die an early death. Then you've got a messy handling car on your hands. Trust me, I tried those years ago. In a matter of a few months they were dead and my car was a nightmare to drive. KYB gas are good, affordable shocks.

and the whites will raise my rear too? cos otherwise it makes no sense buying them...
are those adjustable?

they are stiffer then the grey KYB's they all called KYB Gas Adjust,  I have always found that the coilover shocks are stiff they were used more for a Baja then a Street Car 67's have soft torison bars thats why the sit low you could always adjust the preload on the rear bars

Theres only one way to raise your car and its not changing the shocks. You need to readjust the torsion bars.

Bryan's right. And by the way, KYB = Kick Your Butt. I hate those shocks!

a shock absorber should never be used as a way to raise ride height.

all right folks, i fitted my white KYBs today - at the expensive of a very painful thumb that almost lost its nail, but don't ask how i managed. haha.

this is the result, the wheels stand nice and straight with no more negative camber.
also i fitted some extra gaskets and i'm through with the tractor sound it had  :D

click on the links for the larger pics, i didn't want to ruin the layout  ;)

(http://www.cal-look.nl/gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_25112007052.jpg)
http://www.cal-look.nl/gallery/albums/userpics/10005/25112007052.jpg (http://www.cal-look.nl/gallery/albums/userpics/10005/25112007052.jpg)

(http://www.cal-look.nl/gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_25112007053.jpg)
http://www.cal-look.nl/gallery/albums/userpics/10005/25112007053.jpg (http://www.cal-look.nl/gallery/albums/userpics/10005/25112007053.jpg)

(http://www.cal-look.nl/gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_25112007054.jpg)
http://www.cal-look.nl/gallery/albums/userpics/10005/25112007054.jpg (http://www.cal-look.nl/gallery/albums/userpics/10005/25112007054.jpg)

what say you?

lookin good dude  :)

nice one diederick
 ;)

cheers guys  ;)

other updates are going to be new license plates (in a nice frame).
and i figured that mounting my chrome moldings/trim with trimless window rubbers could make another nice solution.
somewhat like these pics i found in an old topic:

watch how cool that "single line" is in the second pic

whoaa what happened to that silver split???

 Damn... three very very very old splits in a single line!  :o
 Yummie.... If it ain't split it ain't sh*t...  ;D

Those cars are here in Oregon, owned by Brian Hyerstay. He owns a NHRA G/Dragster and this 46 standard and posts here under 1946vw.
(http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/283488.jpg)

hola, don't hijack my thread!!
i was merely trying to point something out  ;) ;D

cool car my friend :)
i thought the black trim would be cool also

cheers, Peter

bought 2 sets of chrome trim today. one is stainless steel and one aluminium set that i might use for match painting.

oh and i found some nice pics of last summer on my brother's pc:

(http://www.cal-look.nl/gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_0009.jpg) (http://www.cal-look.nl/gallery/albums/userpics/10005/0009.jpg)
(http://www.cal-look.nl/gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_0010.jpg) (http://www.cal-look.nl/gallery/albums/userpics/10005/0010.jpg)
(http://www.cal-look.nl/gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_0022.jpg) (http://www.cal-look.nl/gallery/albums/userpics/10005/0022.jpg)
(http://www.cal-look.nl/gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_background.jpg) (http://www.cal-look.nl/gallery/albums/userpics/10005/background.jpg)

for my dashboard i'm looking for some dash/gauge panels.
what i need is one 10cm hole on the left panel, and two 2 1/16" holes on the right panel.

now, the one in the right is no problem. but for the left hand side all i can find are these:

(http://aircooled.net/images/pphotos/isd0016.jpg)

and 2427

(http://cbperformance.com/catalogimages/2425.jpg)

i'd prefer them "filled" so no grill. and i'm still undecided as to the finish, smooth or wrinkle paint.

any ideas?

wrinkle paint is cool. it looks like a mach1 car. but those were red... but it works as well with green.

yeah! i'm still pretty divided on it. it's all guessing to me ;)
any idea where i can get the gauge panels?

not much progress has been made lately, though i've got a few things lying around.
i shot this picture with my phone last weekend having a smoke before going for a 180 km road trip  ;D

get an 82mm crank :)

Build that 1915cc, drive it! Finish your school, start working and build the engine you want. That's my view :P

I agree.I would have never started my 2276cc project,but the bad ass influence was too strong :D

Go and make what you have,and be happy

Hey diederick, if you go 78mm and use VW rods, with my old case, you should be able to keep engine width just about the same as it would be as a 1914. those cylinders I sent you are machined .040" off the top for less deck and better sealing. You may need a small cylinder shim, but your geometry should be fine. If not do you remember how to check it? Just watch thread count above the nut. The 78mm will also help get your CR higher without plunge cutting your heads. I think 2165cc with your 130 and these heads will run well. Reminds me of John Rayburn's old motor (13.00 on radials)

Rayburn's old engine? What did it look like?

I'm thinking of 78.4x94 (2176) cos I like the number  ;D
But I just gotta figure a few things out. I need a crank and stroker pistons. I should be able to still use my cut pushrods, right? I still remember the geometry lesson, and I saved it on my pc.

Fortunately, I think I can practice on my brother's yet-to-be-build engine  :D ;)

p.s. am I right to assume that in this configuration my 37mm venturies won't suffice?

Hey Diederick.... thinking about your car last night...
Have you ever thought about 5-lug chrome 5.5" wheels, like 356 style, with no hubcaps? Or even with 356-style nipple caps?
Just thinking your car would look very good, like an early cal look car with those wheels.
37mm vents will run, but 40mm would be better.
 ;)

I tell ya what - Stop "bench racing" and build it  ;) :)

just build the engine! than you don't have to open your window to here your engine and enjoying mine sound everytime i pass by ;D

but here your own IDA's

get him guys  ;D

ouch, that hurts!! haha.  :D

guys, i just finished my list with things to do for this winter. and i'm telling you, you're in for something big IMHO!
i think it's finally gonna look the bollocks!

jim, if i'd do that i'd make it look like andi/dfl's ride:
(http://www.dflvwclub.de/getimage.php?imgsrc=images/cars/andi/11/andi_2.jpg)

i'm hoping to have some other news very very soon!

Thats a great look like Jim suggested Died,i would go for that.Its something different again from the mass callookers. ;D

And build the freakin' engine,lol ;D

Greets Stanford

Awsome ride it cool to see another student saving for there dream looker i cant wait to start mine again next year after i finish uni, as for the 356 rims it would look awsome i was thinking of doing something similar with my 67 but after fitting short axles i dont really wont to redo all that again, and good luck with the future engine. Alex

if you use those rods (VW) on 82, you are going to have to grind some stuff......
Maybe a set of 5.352 rods on VW journal?

I can't believe it but Rimco rods on my 74 are hitting roof in Sheep's case. I'm done for the day before I start throwing things

how about 78.4? ;)
are you talking about rimco super rods?

Ask Dirk, maybe he wants to sell his 76.4 wbx crank  ;)

Come on Died, it's time to get yourself a big motor. So build that 1915!! The stroker can come later when you have work.

Are you afraid of building it???

just build the engine. in this speed the engine isn't finished for ddd8.

Come on you have to become a real member off the club

hehe, you've got me going now  ;)

 :D lolz get him guys!  :-*

Listen to your inner voice... Build that 2L++ engine and sell me the 69mm crank...  ;D

JUST BUILD SOMETHING ;) :)

8 Fucking Pages.

 :D :D :D ;D ;D

hehe, and almost 12,000 views. i guess there's some people waiting for me to get on with it  ;D

like my geometry lesson  :D :D :D ;D ;D

Jim the Greeder

That's a good deal ! We're all waiting after you and the engine  :D.

if the engine is going to be as fast as he is.............

 :D

jeepee found these photos of my 67 when we crashed a tupperware party...

(http://www.cal-look.nl/gallery/albums/userpics/10011/IMG_9940.JPG)

(http://www.cal-look.nl/gallery/albums/userpics/10011/IMG_9928.JPG)

looks good Dieds. The color photo especially. Gotta love a java green '67....

i've got lots of things in da werks for this winter, but i won't list them all ;)
but i do have some issues that i hope that can be addressed in this topic.

my steering doesn't feel too safe and i'm thinking of replacing the steering box but i don't know how far i should go with replacing parts like a pitman arm (??) and various bushings.

what i feel is lots of play in the wheel, i can imitate an old car movie when standing still  ;D
the adjusting screw on the box is stuck, no way i can get it loose. and when going over uneven areas on the motorway at say 60-70mph i often get a "click" sound that i can feel when i hold on to my steering wheel.

i took the fuel tank out a few days ago, so now i can have a clear view at all the parts. i hope you have any ideas?

Sounds like there is a collapsed bearing in the steering box if you're getting a click. Unfortunately the bearings are VW-supply only - my Dad and some friends all looked around lots of bearing suppliers with no luck.

On the car I just finished ('72 pan), my Dad rebuilt two steering boxes into one good one. You may be able to do the same? Either that or just buy a new one from VW Heritage or somewhere similar and put the 1967 pitman arm on?  I know there are different sizes of track rod ends and I'm sure early cars have the smaller ones. I remember Ivan from Volksworld saying something about '67's having one year only pitman arms and track rod ends many years ago! Maybe something to do with the output shaft being larger (like later cars) with smaller track rod ends? ???

thanks neil! so would replacing the steering box alone be enough?
and what is a pitman arm? the steering shaft?

You don't need to steer on a dragstrip Died, but you will need 1915cc power!!!  8)  ;D

Maybe update us with some gauges?

No worries Died, it's the arm that comes off the bottom of the box that the track rod ends attach to. ;) Unless it's worn on the splines, it should be fine to just change the box. They're a bit of a pain to get off too!

like Neil says, it's the arm that is coming lose probally. it drives a bit cartoon and then all off a sudden it does 'clunk' and the wheel sits a bit in a different direction. so tighten the bolt that holds the arm snug and see what happens. but it is not a good thing you can't adjust the screw on top off the box... so maybe safer with a new one.

i had the steeringbox replaced and the arm wasn't tightened completely and it had the same thing as you discribe. now everything is tightened and checked and it is a lot better and it drives a bit more like a go-cart then a boot.

Just a thought but it could be worn ball joints on the swingarms on the beam - I had the same thing a few years back, it would also effect your steering but i would change the steering box anyway, You won't believe the difference a new one makes  :)

i got some well needed help from my clubmate Jesse last Sunday! and we got around doing some stuff.

here is the 8mm 3/8" fuel line that took us 2-3 hours of fiddling and force to get in.
front:
(http://www.cal-look.nl/gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_05042009228.jpg)

back, we make the hole a bit larger and i've got about 2" left:
(http://www.cal-look.nl/gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_05042009229.jpg)

does anyone have any advise on how to connect fuel hoses to the alu tube? with or without fittings?
in the front i will (have to) run the tube through the lid or cap at the end of the tunnel at the frame head, that leaves me with an 1". YES, the tube was a tight fit  ;D

after that we got the pitman arm of my steering box to use on the new box and gave a few coats of primer and paint and fixed a tool.

lastly, we got one of the new wheels out, masked it off and gave it 3 layers of satin black  ;) 
Jesse did the job:
(http://www.cal-look.nl/gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_05042009227.jpg)

(http://www.cal-look.nl/gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_05042009230.jpg)

what do you say? it was a cool day  :)

What you could do for the fuel line is find a bar of solid iron the just fits in the pipe. Put a piece in the back-end and shove it back in the tunnel, you'll see how it will be easy to guide it back later on. Now you have a bit more play at the front, shove another end of solid bar in the pipe and use it to bend the pipe nicely so you can present it through a hole you drill in the stock location.

Connect a hose with 2 fittings on the alu pipe 2 inches. So it's also in the tunnel. If you get what I mean or else SMS me :D.

Was a great day!

that would be ideal tim! but the pipe is not that easy to bend and the other problem is fishing it through the stock entry location. i can't get in the tunnel with my hand with the body and beam on...

the easiest thing to do is drill a 10mm hole in that cap/lid so the fuel tube reaches through and the run the fuel hose from the pump in between the tubes on the front beam to the tube and clamp it on. this way it can all come apart again.

got some more work done today.

i now have my front wheels ready for tyres:

(http://www.cal-look.nl/gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_10042009232.jpg)

and my brother fixed another dash grill.

(http://www.cal-look.nl/gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_10042009233.jpg)

i am still looking for a vdo gauge like the small fuel gauge, let me know if you have one. mind you, it needs to have yellowish "numbers"  ;)

You mean it supposed to look like that?

guess so  ;)

got some nice michelin rubber wrapped around my fuchs today  ;D

(http://www.cal-look.nl/gallery/albums/userpics/10005/frontfuchs.jpg)

nice died  8)

thanks fabs, i haven't got any discs yet. so, i can't mount them yet.
gotta get in touch with gunter for that i guess  ;)

make an offer i can't resist :)

dude, i can't get how you can supply me with 5x130 discs ???
but i'm open to suggestions. but i might as well buy them new, i don't intend to make you profit from my purchases  ;) ;)

i did buy some nice 5x130 discs with screw-in studs. i'm hoping to get rid of the studs though...
they also came with bearings, but '67 being a difficult year with stock disc brakes i received the wrong bearings, they were bought at BBT so that means another trip to belgium to exchange them for the right ones - are you reading this Peter? ;)

and i finally found the essential piece to my steering box (gold part with rubber) but now the following problem has occured:

(http://www.cal-look.nl/gallery/albums/userpics/10005/steering_shaft_and_box.jpg)

i installed the steering box correctly, though there is basically just one way the mounting bracket is in the correct position (no.13 pointing forward). i can get the tie rods in the pitman arm, BUT the steering shaft doesn't line up with the steering box. i am running one set of caster shims, but that couldn't be the problem... what is this? it's driving me nuts!!

Hey Died.... that's not a big problem. It's the result of the poor quality adjustable beams that are on the market right now..  :-\.. the two welded centerpoints to center your steeringbox are usually welded in the wrong position... (and getting more dramaticly when you drive with caster shims). The best you can do is modify your steeringbox bracket (make those holes a bit larger on each side of the bracket). when you've done this you can align your steering colum.. ;)..

Like we say: "effe de flex erin!!" good luck...Dennis..

OR just knock those silliy little tabs off  with a BIG hammer and an old screw driver - I always get rid of them with "new" beams  ;D

thanks dennis!! i'll have a go at that.


lee, i do have a little less room to swing the hammer than you might with the buggy  ;)

almost ready to go, now where is the engine...
 ;)

Cool what linkage is that  ??? :)

tayco. i just left the crossbar home. didn't feel like taking that with me on the bus  ;)
look at dave rhoads's engine to get an idea of the looks. just the connection to the carbs has changed over time.

forgot to post the dashboard grilles my brother fabbed for me  ;D

nice work you have done there. will it be ready for EBI? can't wait to see it soon.

it'd better be ready by then, nicolas  ;)
i'm gonna get cracking on it again tomorrow, get to work on the front beam with a BIG hammer like a true monkey man ;D
get the screw-in studs out of the discs, do a little work on the dash with a dremel tool to get the tachometer in there. see if i can get my oldschool radio to fit. it's slightly too high to go in from the dash, but instead i'm thinking of taking the faceplate etcetera off and slide it in from the trunk area and connect the faceplate and knobs.
this weekend i should be able to install the front wheels when i exchange my front bearings for the right ones at BBT, then slide on the discs and bolt on the wheels as soon as my bolts arrive. install the new super duper short shocks and lower the beam slightly. get to work on the rear wheel, strip paint, sand, mask, paint... you know the drill. install the rear disc brakes at some point. do some plumbing on my fuel system as soon as i order the right fittings. and get stuff powdercoated and get things like the grilles matchpainted.

and then there's the engine, i tried to trial fit some parts last weekend but i got stuck when i realised the company that balanced it all installed a 38mm bolt (instead of 36mm!!) at, say, 230Nm. no way i could get it loose by hand. if only it were 36mm, then i could've used my torque dude ;)
BTW, does anyone have a nice 36mm bolt i can buy? preferably within the EU regarding shipping costs and time... ???

and once the heads arrive it's gonna be a race against to clock to assemble and break it in. any help is appreciated ;)
my last exam is 16th of June and my internship starts on the 1st of July, so if i get most this abovementioned stuff done during the weekends then it's a 10 day race to EBI to get it all to work and DRIVE ;D

this must give you an idea of the mayhem i'm in, right?  ::) ;)

aahh, vet relaxed dus.   ;D  How can we put this in english?  :D

Keep up the good work.  the fuchs gonna look ultra sweet.  What parts are you gonna matchpaint?  I was thinking about doing the horngrilles also on my car, but inspiration for more is welcome.  ;D

you gotta wait and see, dude ;)

oh, i guess you mean lots of 'bikkelen'?

alright, i got to work on the front beam like a true monkey would ;)
big ass hamer and a chisel as well as a dremel tool did the job. the pitman arm ended up a bit higher so i'll probably have to have my front wheels aligned again... too bad i apparently damaged the thread of one of the joints on trailer arms, can't get the nut on. so i'll have to renew that one i guess... :(

also got to work on the dash, it took some cutting but this is the general idea.
a few of my gauges plus a little bit of the 70ies cassette radio ;D
i didn't really want show, but it's nice to see i'm at least doing something.

p.s. the tachometer looks to be lower, but that's because i haven't finished cutting the speedo hole. it's actually still sticking out  :P

getting closer to a finished front end.

where are those turn signal houses ??? to the painter  ::) ::) to have a java green  coat   ::) ::)............. ;D ;D

i felt like taking stuff apart... :D
;)

well, if you're looking at such a detail you might notice even the doors are missing?? ;)

to dark  ;D ;D

Nice work today dude :).

(http://www.cal-look.nl/gallery/albums/userpics/10013/Died.jpg)

i'm installing my CB rear disc brakes at the moment and i've got one issue with the axle nut:

with the disc installed i torque the axle nut to 250 ft/lbs and the disc is then stuck! no movement possible, not even if i put a wheel on and try to spin it... after that didn't work, well i'm sure i should be able to turn the torqued disc just like a drum, i tried doing it by hand: 47 ft/lbs (650 kg/cm) made it very difficult to turn but i could put the pin in and the next step, next hole for the cotter pin meant torquing the axle nut at about 14ft/lbs (200 kg/cm)

now it feels pretty good, i can tighten it more by hand which is a weird idea, but at least i can spin the disc. i doesn't have any sideplay really and i can get the cotter pin in. but it doesn't seems weird hardly having it torqued...

but wouldn't i mess up the bearing if i overtighten it?

i'm talking about the CB 5x130 rear disc kit - ROTO HUB with parking brakes:
http://cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=714 (http://cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=714)

does anyone know? i put the wheel on and apart from looking sweet n slick it feels just like the stock wheel on the left rear side which is still attached to the original drum...

Did you put the spacer that comes in the kit in the bearing cap?

hi gary, thanks for responding.
no, they didn't ship me a spacer. they told me at CB that i should've come in a bubble wrap pack. but ones i told them which parts i have, they said i have all parts.
but, the spacer should go between the disc and axle nut and as you can see from the second image the thread looks find and doesn't need to be spaced out.

i didn't install the first washer and o-ring behind the stock spacer. when i took of the bearing seal retainer cap, the gearbox oil flooded the place so i quickly grabbed the bracket, large o-ring, paper gasket, retainer shim, axle seal and bearing cap. i can't remember finding a stock oil deflector!! is that made of rubber?

it makes sense that the axle needs to be spaced out under the bearing cap as the disc is now pushed in too far and ends up stuck. please let me know if you have any suggestions!

Hi Diederick did you install this spacer shim behind the bearing cap? it is used because the Caliper Bracket is thicker then the backing plate, without it being installed when you tighten the axle nut it will pull the axle and bearing outward and can make it bind and not turn the spacer is designed to keep force the bearing into the axle tube seat. hope this helps the shim in red needs to be installed it comes in the CB Brake Kit.

yes i did gary. but thanks for noting :)
i sent the rotors out to get machined. when you look at the back side, there is a flange or hub that goes over the axle shaft. on the outside of that shaft there was 5mm length/clearance until it ran into the reinforcement of the back side etc. I measured the distance from the oil deflector to the bearing cap and it was 7.5mm. So I'm having my rotors turned down to 8mm and I'll get them back tomorrow. this way the back side of the rotor will turn out a bit more like the old drum.

i hope you understand ;)

Dude glad to see the car coming along but I have mentioned my thoughts on CB brakes before  ::) They are RUBBISH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! They never fit properly  >:( I have just had a load of trouble with their dropped spindles - My friend brought some disc brake dropped spindles and I tried fitting the calipers and gues what - Thats right they didn't fit  ::) The "bosses" where the two bolts go were approx 3mm thicker than stock VW items meaning the caliper was over to one side! so off to the machine shop again - my advice don't use CB brakes!

I picked up the rotors today, they were cut more than I asked but they fit great. Got a caliper on, even though they supply shims with the kit I didn't need to. If I did the caliper would hit the disc. But they fit fine! You can hear the pad "sand" the disc when I spin the wheel, but I guess that's because I haven't connected the hoses yet. My old brake lines where hardline and I had to cut them to remove the discs, so I'll get some nice new hoses.

(http://www.cal-look.nl/gallery/albums/userpics/10005/Foto002.jpg)

(http://www.cal-look.nl/gallery/albums/userpics/10005/Foto001.jpg)

hardly any time to finish it lately, hence the delay.

 :o :o , very nice progress and look very good  8)

thanks fabs, i still have some jobs to do. including replacing more trim parts with black and swapping my window rubbers. etc.
just need some frickin time  :-\

enfin, merci  ;D

Did you get all the Gauges Wired up? I noticed you have the fuel and volt where the press and temp were going?

Now that looks a little better  ;) :)

cheers dude, i've got some more tricks up my sleeve too  ;D
will post more when i'm done.

on the gauges; i have to replace my trailer harness because of the thickness of the wires but i found a nice one which i'll buy this saturday. tape it to the old one and pull it through the car. then i can hook up the gauges. yes, i didn't fit the oil gauges yet as there is no need for those just yet. and i've got some crazy idea on where to mount the other gauges, but i'll have to contemplate on it very well before i will... :)

but i'm hoping to take it to at least one show this summer  ::)
then, i can quietly take it back in and start on the interior revamp and horsepower  8)

Nice details Diedrick, the wheels came out reallly nice! Like the instruments also! Car looks really good

What a difference!

thanks guys, this really motivates me to get a lot done this saturday - that is if i'm not too hung over :-P
and zach, i do have some interior/upholstery queries i need to contact you about at some point  ;)

p.s. if anyone has some cool BLACK frames of that same size please let me know. these don't quite fit the theme anymore .

I already told you Died's... just say no to TMI  ;) ;D

I'd be glad to help!

is it done yet?  ;D

from what i can see it looks all good.

looks good Died!!

The wheels look really nice.

~DR.

Way cool Died,the "fuch's" are lookin' good and those gauges too.
And I love the painted headlightrings.
job well done.  ;)

I have a pair of Plate frame for yathat Mr Rosique might just recognise  ;) They will look awsome 

Ps it just needs one piece windows, a black hood handle and remove the rest of the window trims  ;) :)

i will do the latter 2. but one piece windows scare me off...
black hood handle, hood trim, logo, wipers, vent wings etc are all waiting to be bolted on. i'll have another go this saturday.  ;D

let me know about those plate frames dude. if you could measure them for me... my plates are 15cmx30cm

thanks so much for the kind words everyone  :)

I'll measure it up when I get home dude  ;)

cool, drop me a line about the other thing too. when you have time (and inspiration)  ;)

looking good with the fuchs died and i like the black parts also....suits the car

looks very nice. a great improvment. cheers dean

My favorite green for a VW. Here are some shots of my old 66>

Rick Mortensen

nice!! if only i can find 7x15 fuchs.
well, let's first put some miles on with these wheels ;)

thanks for all the kind comments :)

67 with fuchs and black parts are the best

Wow, Jeroen, that 67 looks great!

Tobi

Nothin' like the dark side...Woooohooohooohooo!  ;) ;D

back on the road after 18 months, well chuffed  ;D

(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4017/4592040026_e1d3d922e0_b.jpg)

sorry, just had to say this  ;)

n.b. cool pic(s) is(are) by Mcdronkz

Nice Dieds...that looks "right."

thanks mike!

(http://www.airmighty.com/index/Gallery/albums/DVK_Meeting_Veenendaal_08-05-2010/IMG_5310.jpg)

;D

Hi Diederick

Car looks awesome , always loved buggy bars on a bug , stance is spot on

Rob

cheers rob, appreciated ;D

Looks awesome Diederick ! 8)

yep the car looks good. it was nice when i saw it on the Walliforniatour, but now it looks a lot better.

yep very cool now , especially with the buggy bars  ::) ::)..................... ;D ;D

now just put the 48ida and the car will be complete   ;)

fabs

Hi Diederick,

nice stance! Love all the chromes in black!

Just curious about the fitting of the rear buggy bar; did you have any pics?

Jerome

thanks guys! i thought about the looks for a long time and i think i made the best out of it sans dechroming the whole car ;)
jerome, fabs gave me some tips about how to mount the bars. what i did for the rear:
- cut it (the rear is a bugpack (i think) and was pretty long)
- went to a plumbing company and borrowed a huge hand tool to bend it to almost 90 degrees
- bought 2 90 degrees brackets from a DIY store
- laid the bars on the dual quiet packs to check for clearance
- hammered the brackets into a sort of u-shape:
              |
              |
|            |
|_______|
- the upper right hole i bolted to bumper holes and i lined up the factory made hole of the buggy bar inside the opening of the bracket i "drew" above and the long bolts go straight through the whole bracket.

i only did one bracket per side and it's super solid. i'll take a picture when i get the chance, i'm not around my car that often ;)

sorry, for the hammered explanation, hope you understand what i mean.

Thx Died!  ;)
I'll have a look when the header will be fitted.
Jerome

glad to have picked up my future transaxle, today. this will be a mild performance gearbox as much as funds will allow.

[attachment=1]

it's a Dec. 73 AB gearbox that's only done 37,000 kilometers and has been standing still for 20 years now! well worth the 300km drive i think.

it seems as though my idleness has come to an end. yesterday i got lucky and my trusty helper, who happens to be my girlfriend, spent some quality time with me in the garage:

(http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/1108/img00054201104011447.jpg)

some time later:

(http://img683.imageshack.us/img683/6699/img00055201104011709.jpg)

then, i had to take care of the engine bay as unfortunately it was neglected during the respray a few years ago. i chose to go with an old school finish that closely resembles the zolatone finish.

(http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/2955/img00057201104011925.jpg)

today we're off to put in some more hours. any advice regarding the wiring is appreciated. there's quite a loom of wires going both ways, and it like to have it look a little more clean...

hopefully next week we'll install the 1915 - a moment that, to say the least, has been due for way too long.

And still managed to do some work on the bug ;D

;D

just wondering if some would care to chip in for some advice; the merged header is pretty stuck on the 1500 engine. the pieces that slide into each other won't come loose. soaking them in WD-40 and some gentle taps with a hammer haven't worked yet. I'm sure this happens more often, so what's the course of action.

You could try to genlty heat the tubes with a blowlamp.

hard plastic hammer, and some elbow grease ;) don't let the steel win ;)

hehe.
i wasn't too keen on using a torch that near to the poor single port heads...
so i'll see what I can do next weekend.  :)

Looks like she did all the work!  ;)

so what are the exact specs of yer 1915, Died? ;)

Your a lucky man! How on earth did you get ANY work done with a honey like that hanging around  ;) :)

Thanks Mark, but I don't know if Diederick will appreciate it if I put a pictures of his girlfriend in my home. And my girlfriend may not like that too...  :D :D ;D


 ;D ;D ;)

 ;D ;D ;D

whoopsie daisy  ;D
coincidentally, she bought some frames a few days ago. guess it could pull a 4x6" out of it  :)

gonna order me some Brad Penn oil now so we can get cracking this weekend.
also, i'll see what wiring solutions my local car parts store has to neaten the engine bay!

no problem, Mark  ;)
and thanks Lee, she'd been offering to help me for a long time. :)
i'd point at a bolt or screw and she'd undo it in no time, real handy, haha!

Sorry, I forgot about this one, the specs. I'd like to think of it as an old school 1835, big cam (w130), 40x35 heads, dual QPs and IDAs.
But frankly, the true mastermind behind the engine is Jim Ratto. I'm merely an apprentice following the recipe  ;)

Hi Died, does M&S, have al the Brad Penn oils in stock now ?

Thanks,
Harry

yup, just got off the phone with David an hour ago, a friendly "Rotterdammer" who provided me with a lot of info, too.
he also told me that since Brad Penn 20w50 is only good for 5,000km, he's also got Gulf Maxi Plus in stock in case you want a longer lasting (good crude, 1500ppm) oil. just sayin ;)

Thanks, Died. Now Get'R Done Dude 8)

Will pick up te oil tomorrow Died! My plan is to get that mouse engine of yours running at the end of saturday  8)

We've been busy bees today, thanks go out to my brother Chris and clubmate Jesse. We finished some last bits on the engine, flywheel endplay (.30mm according to KS's interchange manual specs), clutch and KEP plate, replaced the starter, finished painting the engine bay. We also cleaned up some of the wiring, installed the breather box well out of sight.

Just gotta finish match porting the intakes and install the engine, install the top-end and break-in the engine.  :)

(http://img200.imageshack.us/img200/3606/img00061201104091414.jpg)

Here's Jesse filling up the engine with Brad Penn Straight 30 break-in oil. It's got 3 quarts in it now, looks like 4 quart will do with the 1.5qt sump to reach at least the lower mark on the dipstick. Or should the oil level be higher for the break-in? I've got 5 quarts anyhow...

Just gotta decide where to mount the Holley Regulator. I'd prefer to mount it on the back of the fanshroud instead of the firewall, tips are welcomed  ;)

Will continue tomorrow @ 9 am  ;D

we made progress today but we encountered the usual issues that stall the process, so we only got to test for oil pressure and finished as much as we could on the engine. we got 4 bar oil pressure when cranking, some may have seen the clip on facebook.  :)

my brother chris played his fumio role well and took care of the porting the intakes, as well as the dash electrics (fancy oil gauge i had stashed away)!
while jesse and i installed the engine, which took a lot longer than we expected as the clutch wasn't aligned properly even though we used a tool to install that all yesterday. so after excluding all other options we got it fixed but lost a lot of time. however we did as much as we could've done hardly taking a break  ;)

engine in. those IDA look big in real life  ;D plus the engine looks really narrow with the reversed empi intakes  :D :
(http://img801.imageshack.us/img801/5131/img00064201104101934.jpg)

no more speedometer:
(http://img847.imageshack.us/img847/6291/img00065201104101934.jpg)

last pic of the day:
(http://img34.imageshack.us/img34/8788/img00066201104102118.jpg)

left to do are 2 more fuel lines, plugs and ignition, generator and valvetrain install.

thanks Mark! I meant to say that my 914 speedo (which was on the left) has been replaced with a cool 911 combi oil gauge.

it's such great, rewarding work to mount and install the engine with care and quality parts  ;D

those black manifolds are original empi items and the IDAs sit reversed and real close to the shroud. they make the engine look very narrow.

Soon, I'm not the only one to terrorise the brouwersdam parking lot!  ;D  GO GO GO!

Dude I am seriously impressed!!!!!!! That engine is gonna be AWESOME  ;D It looks REALLY cool too,

Looks like all my hints/tips/advise paid off  ;) :)

By the way Who did you get to Re-work/rebuild your Magneto (to work with a normal tacho etc) ???

Cool looking engine Died! But a magneto on a street car's engine!? That's like putting a M3 body kit on your 320d!  :D

What wrong with the Magneto dude  ??? I thought you'd be down with that look  :-\ :)

(I think they look AWESOME! ;))

They belong on race engines with no cooling and no alternator/generator.

On a street engine they look silly & they don't belong since they have no use. I don't think you'll find a pic of a street car's engine with a magneto in "the bible"... ;)

Fair point dude BUT I think you'll find the Goss Chop Top originally had one  :-\ ;) :)

oh well... never liked that car anyways..  :D

Tell Dave Mason they don't belong on a street car and that they are silly, then he'll show you a time slip!

Glad you like it, Lee! I suppose, in your own words, great minds think alike  ;D
I didn't get the magneto rebuilt though, it's a locked-out mag wired through a Joe Hunt signal converter. Might wire in my Autometer Pro Control, too.

Roland, I'm only glad we're not all running a Bosch 010 or MSD setup. I like doing things differently every now and then  ;)
I'm all about the look of the old days and I gather inspiration from different cars and such. So, I suppose you could see my '67 as a compilation of some cal-look cars from different eras if that makes any sense.  :-\

Gonna work on the engine tomorrow, to fire it up this Saturday.
Tomorrow I'll see if I can make fuel lines, clean up and connect some wiring, assemble the fan-generator-pulley thingies, mount the shroud, throw in spark plugs, set timing, slide in some pushrods, assemble the rocker arms and set the valve lash. I'll see how far I get and the rest will be wrapped on Saturday I hope.

Then, I gotta sort out that annoying right side rear axle bearing and take it for a short test drive  :o

 ;)

Yep great minds dude  ;)

Be very carefull with the dyno pulley etc I have seen way to many come apart! Use an Original VW pulley is my best advise,

Cant wait for a drive in this little baby  ;D

I got a pair of itchy hands (is that correct english  ??? ) to work on it this Saturday Diederick! Just a few bits to finish before burning up the neighbourhood :D.

See ya Saturday!

i've got a bit of an itch, too  :D
let's not break the gearbox, shall we?  ;)
see ya there and then!

Regulator mounted on th eback of my 36hp shroud..........fits nice, works like a peach.   ;)

(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a6/Hotrodvw/0101091450-02.jpg)

the project is not going well, so I had to open a topic over here:  HELP! (http://cal-look.no/lounge/index.php/topic,15624.0.html)

PM Sent

Dude is it running already?

Michael

Well ??? ;) :)

not yet. looks like i've got an issue to sort out.
will post when it is running  ;)

Hey Diederick,
are you sure about the 0.3 mm endplay?
what i read is that 0.004 - 0.005 " is ideal, thats 0.1 - 0.12 mm  ???

around 0.12 is best, i've got a bunch of shims if you need them.

Almost ready....  (first few sec's the ida's bowls are not equal filled)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GcGpVtj0ob4

Mageto and finetuning and its almost done. ;D

''hangs'' nice on the gas :P
(ps: that's me in the vid)

Good news!

i would name it a break-through!

cheers for the running 1915!

Now with Joe Hunt Magneto!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cV9Zeh6cLaM

Ready to collect this week Died! have fun with it.  ;D :D

sounds good, nice work

Tis alive!!!!   ;D  :D  8)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6juR4vuJfAs (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6juR4vuJfAs)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z18hTD66M1c (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z18hTD66M1c)

"Is it on? Ja! OK! hehe WOP WOP!"  ;)

edit: something went wrong, no idea why i quoted my own post...

Cool Died!

merci bien!  ;D

not too happy with the engine yet...

- i'm having near to 4 bars of oil pressure with a cold engine. 20w50 Brad Penn oil and 30mm oil pump.
- the engine is sweating a bit on the lower half, i'm thinking the breathing isn't sufficient. currently i have 2 hoses (magneto stand and oil filler) running to a breather box above the gearbox with a K&N filter on the third fitting... but the piston rings haven't "set" yet either...
- and a bit of a leak coming from the oil pump cover and oil line running from pump to filter. gonna try and fasten it a bit more tomorrow.

lastly, this engine gets hot quick. i still haven't really driven it but after about 15 seconds of idle you can feel the heat rising, i may be exaggerating but it's my first build and is this normal??

any thoughts are appreciated. i just hope i'll make it.

What oil cooler are you using Died?

Stock at the moment.

The heat is normal with that type of exhaust and larger engine. Just run it you will be fine.

The 4 bar should be checked with a good gauge as you didn't trust the Porsche gauges..

Here is my 4 cents:

1) High oil pressure is good. No worries. Well proven oil but why no try a thinner oil?

2 and 3) High pressure will force the oil out. Fix you`re breathing and then check for leaks. Rings that are not set will also increase the pressure. How big is the in and out on you`re "breather" box? It is hard to improve the breathing capacity of a standard engine and if possible I would remove the box above the gearbox.

4) The heat will rise as soon as the engine starts. The question is: how hot is hot? Oil temp is one thing, head temp is something else. A poorly tuned engine can also run hot.

BB

thanks for the advice, fellas!!

i checked the pressure last night with a 52mm VDO gauge: identical results. i just poured in 40 euros worth of Brad Penn oil. can't afford to see what another brand's 15w40 would do. anyway, i suppose it's better than too little pressure ???

cooling is a stock brand new oil cooler, although I've got the external 72 plate cagero cooler mounted already. been thinking of plumbing in my cagero cooler and bugpack thermostat. but seeing that jesse had no high oil temps at all with his very similar 1915, i figured that could wait and i could focus on more important issues.

the engine is properly tuned luckily, accurate jetting, timing and valve lash. though i painted the header with VHT flameproof so it could be that that stuff still has to "bake" a bit, hence a little smoke coming off the header.

the breathing is insufficient I suppose, but i got something else coming up to replace it, so this will have to do for a few weeks only.
it's that tiny whiny bugpack box with 2 hoses (magneto stand and oil filler) and a K&N filter. i could install another similar box with 4 outlets (my brother's) and hook up the 1-2 valve cover, but what do with the 3 unused outlets?

i suppose i am still a bit of a noob when it comes to these issues, and a bit careful after spending this much over the last 4 years. nevertheless, i do intend to make the drive down to chimay and see where that ends, either back home in the garage or on the hard shoulder, haha  :D

thanks again, please keep the posts coming  ;)

That box can hardly be called a "breather". So to get it straight, you have the original, little oil filler box with the hose routed to the BP box? Or is it just going to mother earth? And on top of this you have a hose going from the fuel pump cover to the same BP box? Please do a search here on The Lounge before you decide to breath from you`re valve covers.

I would get rid og BP and throw it as far as you can so that you`re sure you will never find it again. Then use a hose from the fuel pump to the underside of the original oil filler box and increase the outlet on the box to 20+mm and put a filter on it.

BB

I think the cooler is good too. But maybe a 30mm pump is too much is you don't have an external cooler ??? ??? I'm gonna use a Berg 26mm on my 1904cc (stock cooler too). Or you can maybe use the oil pump cover with oil pressure relief spring.

(http://www.geneberg.com/images/GB%20239.JPG)

And about the VHT paint yes, when I baked the parts in the oven there was some smoke and "burnt/hot smell" in the begining. Then it dissapeared in the end of the baking.

The 30mm pump should be fine, I got it from Jim Ratto who has been running them for years and years on his own engines. Thanks for thinking with me, but you're right a 26mm would've done well too I suppose and a pressure relief is a nice add-on!

Good to hear, I only put on a thin layer as my brother nearly finished the can on his header  :D

:)

Kalle, I sent you a PM.

Yet, I wonder why do so many people get away with that small box I'm supposed to throw away. Even with 2+ liter engines. Why can't I? haha!

can anyone help me on this one. i took the IDAs off after the first few 800km and i noticed they were dirty.

(http://img840.imageshack.us/img840/3779/img00123201108061537.jpg)

there seems to be fuel leaking from the float bowl. at least i could clearly smell fuel, even though the float bowls didn't contain enough fuel to start the engine. perhaps the thread cover (part # 23) needs a new copper o-ring? but what about the thing in the middle of the pic above the pump lever?

(http://img535.imageshack.us/img535/8921/img00124201108061537.jpg)

oil residue on the bottom of the carbs...

mind you the carbs were cleaned ultrasonically, i think. so all the grease etc came about during the first 800 or so kilometers.

fluel/greasy is normal, maybe change that alu-ring and your done.. Wait and see after 2000km's THEN they're dirty ;)

Took Diederick's engine apart today because of a bolt that came loose of the Jaycee magneto stand and dropped into the case!

(http://www.cal-look.nl/Gallery/albums/userpics/10013/DSC01406.JPG)

Found the bolt but unfortunately it has damaged the cam gear. Is it still fixable?

(http://www.cal-look.nl/Gallery/albums/userpics/10013/DSC01407.JPG)

(http://www.cal-look.nl/Gallery/albums/userpics/10013/DSC01408.JPG)

Just to clarify. The bolt that came loose is one of the 2 bolts that bolt the vertical piece to the fuel pump block off on the Jaycee magneto stand. I've explained this to many people since this summer. Of course the Jaycee magneto stand was properly assembled but that one bolt just rattled loose somewhere during the 800km I did during summer. I suppose I should have used loctite...

I'm glad the bolt has finally been found.
Unfortunately, my magnum cam gear has been damaged.

Can anyone help out?

I'm diggin'.

http://www.luchtgekoeldewebwinkel.nl/webwinkel_product.php?product_id=2436

Regards Edgar

eddie, the thing is my crank gear is just fine. so i was hoping someone could help me out with just the cam gear  ;)

Oeps sorry.

Dude I would replace BOTH just to be on the safe side - You know it makes sence  :)

i was not aware they are matched sets? a magnum cam gear should work with a magnum crank gear, right?

I just ment are you 100% sure that the other gear is not damaged - just seems silly not replacing it while the motor is apart  :-\ :)

hey Diederick,
hows the motor?
are you running a locked mag?

peter

the motor is back together. i should get round to installing the gearbox tomorrow when more parts arrive. after that i can install the engine and replace the front beam and do some finetuning once i get the car up and running. i am running a locked magneto, yes.