The Cal-look Lounge

Is there anyone besides Ahnendorp who sells BAS flywheelbolts?
I need one set or two,they cost 69,90 Euros at Ahnendorp and that's reasonably fair price but they want 89,20 Euros in shipping for 5 bolts to Sweden  ???

Thanx
Patrik.

First off: thanks for a really nice event! Then secondly, did you read this: http://cal-look.no/lounge/index.php/topic,14833.0.html
 
I know it isn't what you asked for but I do ask if BAS is needed or if they are any stronger than the ones you have been using.

Best rgs
Kalle

 Thanx for coming Kalle  :)
I have read the topic and it is in line of what I'm thinking,but with the flywheel coming loose it kind of messes
with my head  ???
12 years of racing type4 turbos and i never had this problem so now I'm looking in to diffrent options,maybe i will give the BMW ARP bolts a try.


//Patrik

The new Turbo you have will mess with your head and every part in your engine....  ;D 

Hi Patte

I think I have a spare set in stock, I'll check tomorrow.

Rolf, DK

True that  :)

Thanks Rolf, but i have decided not to use the BAS bolts

OK, but I do have a spare set if you change your mind.

/Rolf

What way are you going Patte?

[/quote]

OK, but I do have a spare set if you change your mind.

/Rolf
[/quote]

Thanks, ill keep that in mind

I have decided to use Volvo V70 auto flexplate bolts(12.9 grade) and after discussing with

my friend Roland Erkki(AKA Rolando Furioso,AKA Rulle) who works at ABB robotics testlab he asked

 the experts at clampingforce and friction what they would recommend in this case.

There is some kind of material that are 0,10 mm thick with diamonddust on it that is used as washers

when you wanna increase friction (100% more), to be used between crank and flywheel  :) but it seems to be hard to get.

More realistic is sandblasting the surface on the crank and have a polished surface on the flywheel

this will add 50% more friction.

As i have 5 dowels (6mm) already i will use them

/Patrik

Patte, will you sandblast or mediablast (glass)??
Is there a partnumber for the Volvo bolts ?

Thanks,
Harry

[/quote]

Patte, will you sandblast or mediablast (glass)??
Is there a partnumber for the Volvo bolts ?

Thanks,
Harry
[/quote]

I think i will use aluminiumsilicat to get a rough surface.

Will try to get the partnr next week,everything is closed for midsummer celebration now  :)
I think i hear a beer calling my name in the fridge,better respond to that holler i hear  ;D

I was misinformed about the Volvo bolts,they are actually M11   :-[

So I'm going with these instead partnr 201-2801  http://www.importperformanceparts.net/imports/arpflyboltkits-all.html

Ill think they will be as good as it gets  :)


Patrik

The best way is to use 5  8mm Gene Berg pins and BAS bolts . That is for shure . 6 mm pins and stretch bolts will not hold up what you need

Udo

Haven't you just snapped a set of BAS bolts Patte?
There is just one cure for this, higher clamping force. Better material in the bolt allows more tightening.
Any good bolt works in the way that you stretch it like a spring, if it doesn't allow stretching it's not putting in enough safety margins in the assembly.
What do the boys at ABB say about this?

The longer the bolt is the more it stretch and by that gives a better safety margin to retain the preload even if something in the assembly seats together.
In my opinion by looking at the BAS bolts you can see that the part that can stretch is very short and therefore has a low safety margin for seating.
As you say the real solution is to have as good material as possible in the bolt and torque it as close to "permanent" stretch as possible=Max clamping force.
ARP 200,000 psi bolts have a "brake strenght" of 1378N/mm2 compared to a 12.9 bolt that has 1200N/mm2.

We have done some testing whith different surface finishes both in gears crimped on shafts and parts that are bolted toghether and the results always point in the same direction and the difference can be huge!

Hi

What kind of torque have you used for the BAS bolts and other bolts?

/Juggas

Ahh Per Johan, now I know why you asked Jakob Spring on Get Back on Track.
I googled and found this interesting topic.

Udo, I rate your knowledge high on TIV experience. Now I have been very hesitant to drill 8 mm pins in the TIV crank.
It does not leave a lot of material.
6 mm would be the way for me but so far, no engine I have built has anay pins. Not that many but a lot of years of abuse.
My Okrasa 82 mm since 1975 is still being raced.....no pins.
Maybe not as much starin as 10 second drag race starts and that is why.

So you recommend 8 mm and have good experience with it. No critisism. I am listening.