The Cal-look Lounge

I did a search on here and couldnt really find anything, so i was wondering if anyone could give me any tips from past experience?

Cheers

use single springs, 2500 rpm for 30 mins, lots of lube

Use a good oil with suitable zinc content... I used Delo brand oil and added Lucas brand ZDDP additive.

Iv put in valveoline VR1 (20-50 i think?) to start with or should i do the break in with something else?

Can you explain why to use single springs? (because of pressure????)

Regards, Dennis

yes, once the cam is run in put the other 2/3 back.

it's important you don't build the shortblock with lube, then test for geometry/full lift/valve to piston clearance. You'll wipe all the lube off the cam and lifters. All that stuff needs to be done while mocking motor up. Then make sure you prime for oil pressure before you install plugs and pushrods and rockers. After you have oil pressure for 1 min, then immediately get plugs in (carbs on if they're in the way) and pushrods and rockers. I leave a few extra thou in valve clearance for break in too. Make sure everything is well oiled. Last 15 years I broke in against dual springs (ERCO triples once) and haven't had a cam die.
I use molydisulfide lube mixed with STP. Break in for 2500 rpm for 15 min, let cool, check/adjust valves, run for another 10 min, drain oil (check filter if inspectable) adjust valves to what your cam guy says, then refill and go.
Jim

I just broke my engine in with K800's with no problem -- -- The best oil I've found with the highest Zinc ratings in the Mobile1 Syn for V-twins -- comes in 10w40 and 20w50 depending for the time of year -- I've got the 20w50 in there right now and it pegs my oil gauge for a while until it warms up -- this stuff is very slick too, spilled some on the concrete floor and wiped it really good -- about 10 minutes later I walked over the area and about slipped on my butt

Jims suggestions are right on>> The BIGGEST problems I see on a regular basis when it comes to break in is... 1)not being patient enough..2) the engine should be READY to fire PRIOR to break in....MANY have wiped the cams clean prior to fire up trying to problem solve. Have always had good fortune using Valvoline racing oil/ has generous amount of zinc. I use Mobil 1 in many v8s. Used it first time while working at a Mobil station in 1971 and a large percentage of the new users had to come back to have the idle reset lower as the introduction of the Mobil 1 provided much less friction....but have used Valvoline racing oil in all of my VW's for over 4 decades with no adverse problems. With more detergent  in most racing oils one must change the oil on a more regular basis than conventional oil/my experience.  Good Luck...!!

never trust a ginger. oh and for f**k sakes just turn the key already.

getting all the checks for valve timing, geometry, valve to piston, full lift vs coil bind, etc takes monumental time, one reason it takes me months + to get one motor done, all has to be done before the first few things bolted together. I think too many guys get anxious to get the short block done, then start spinning motor over a million times, against spring pressure (!) and all the cam lube gets scrubbed off. On some motors, I even pre set valve lash (why I give a few thou extra) so it's just get motor 90 between TDC and BDC and bolt 'em on, flood with your good oil and fire it (after priming first).

I just start the motor straight away. I start with what ever valve springs are on it. Dual, single, or K800's.  Don't care.  I have the carbs already full of gas and pumping and have timing already set close and start. No priming for oil pressure because after you spin the motor over and over priming if you have rockers on you wipe the assembly lube off the cam. If you have the rockers off by the time you get them back on and adjusted the oil has drained back down. Make sure you fill the oil filter before putting it on.  If everything is ready with carbs and timing when you start the motor the oil pressure comes up in just a second or two. Double check timing while it's running and let run and break in. This is the way I done it for ever. I have lost one cam about fifteen years ago. It was a FK 89 that the customer supplied used and said it only had one dyno run on it. I put it in and it went bad within a few hours. Also I feel that if you change from a single spring to duals or K800's that you change the wear pattern on the cam and lifter with more chance of things going bad. Good luck with everything.  Dave Rhoads

Some great proceedures mentioned here.
The only 'ritual' I use worth mentioning is before startup. I don't bother to pull the pushrods or rockers or any of that. Before cranking, fill the filter and lines and prime the engine by pressure feeding oil in through the sensor hole in front of the distributor ... you can use a pressure tank or simply feed it with the use of a 'squirt' gun. I usually put in at least a quart, sometimes 2, then top it off having preset timing and fuel in the carb(s) prior. Keeps my mind at peace because the light goes out near instantly.
The rest is pretty much the same ...
TxT