The Cal-look Lounge

In Norway we have a saying; "Mye vil ha mer" which translates to "Alot wants more" or something.

This is it: My "old" 1915cc wanted more grunt, so I decided to give it some treats :)

It was:

AS41
Mahle 94
G01 heads 35,5/32
10-1
web 109
1,25 rockers
stock rods
1,5" merged
40 IDF
lightened FW
OE crank
It's going to be:

AS41
Mahle 94
044 Wedgeports 42/37,5
11 to 12-1
Web 86c
1,4 rockers
5,4" CB H-beam rods
1 5/8" merged
48IDA with shortened manifold
lightened FW
DPR crank


The CNC'd heads will get a fluff and a buff and a healthy flycut. I'll try to get my deck height to 1,2mm, and a cc of around 35-40cc

Plan is to get 100hp pr liter at the FW.

I'm reading

Since the case will be split and you reference a DPR crank, are you going to increase the stroke?  I would, either 78, or 82mm.....maybe more, whatever your budget allows.  If you go to 82mm or greater it may be best to replace your connecting rods and of course, the case would have to be clearanced as well.  Onward and upward!  Best of luck with your engine!

It's in pieces. I don't like the phrase "there's no replacement for displacement".. I'll just take it a 1000rpm's higher  ;D

No really.. It's staying as a sub 2litre

The rotating assembly was balanced in absolute "0" the past week. The DPR crank was good from DPR, but needed a little tweak to be 100% perfect.

The next step is to deliver the heads and manifolds to a buddy. He'll smoothen out the heads, buff and polish the exhaust port and shorten the manifolds.
The length of the manifolds will be matched to the engines characteristics using second order:

2.order: 3350000/rpm=manifoldlength in mm
3350000/8000 = 418,75mm

Did a quick check the other day and need to shave of 7-8cm!

Fun with a 1915cc building, I'm about to build on the same concept with almost the exact same parts as you. I will run with a FK89 cam but I think I will go down from the 1.4 rockers so I get clearance between the valve and piston. The biggest challenge is that said to get the compression yet have clearance.

But small-block engine is cool!  8)

Valve pockets ;-)

Yes I know, but the pistons is not how thick any time either  ;) It is just to measure and see how much lift you can run when everything is installed simply :)

It was US balanced.  :)  increase the sensitivity and you will find that it will still need work to get to a point where it is "true" 0.

I was actually thinking of welding some of the chamber to raise the CR. We'll see how it will be.

Here you can see the mockup. and the LONG manifolds..

[attachment=1]

Modified the CB tower to allow more air to vent[attachment=2]

A little hickup..

Checked end play with the crank at the bench with FW and a Silverline bearing.. All good, but forgot to check with the KS bearing that's in the engine now.

No in short shortblock with 0,41mm end play (w/o shims)

Need to modify the FW..

more to come :)

Got an update on the manifolds today :)

Got my heads back yesterday. We spent 4 hours trying to get a reasonable endfloat. Ended up machineing bot the lip of the FW and the and the area that mates with the crank.

Heads and manifolds: :)

[attachment=1][attachment=2][attachment=3][attachment=4]

[attachment=1][attachment=2][attachment=3][attachment=4]

Thank for good pictures on the shortened intake manifolds. We are going to do the same mod toghether with Pep.
How long are the intakes alone?

You know what? I haven't meassured them after I picked them up. I guesstimate them to be about 12cm. Will check it tomorrow! They are nice! And will hopefully flow more than before :-)

Fredrik: They are 14cm long

If you are planning to have large ports, I truly recommend to move the flange bolts furter apart. It is seriously tight.

Yes i have noticed that also that it is littlebit difficult to get enough room for the fastening bolts. I think i will use allen bolts instead of normal M8 nuts. With that it is possible to get couple of extra clearence.

I can't even put the manifold on and then nuts. I need to enter the manifolds first, then slowly combine lowering the manifolds and tightening the nuts.

I even need to macine a set of CSP 10mm nuts. The collar needs to go!

But.. I'll probably get another million hp :P


The cool thing is that the manifolds are so short they don't stick further out than the heads, so it should be possible to get the engine in with manifolds mounted :)

If you weld on the inside of the manifold to make the ports line-up with the heads, you get a little more room for the nuts. But shortening the way you did is not ideal. Lots of port work left I would think?
(been there ...)

Did not get that last one.. Could you explain or post a picture?

I've had way too much to do   :(


but.. the engine is almost ready! only need to adjust the valves and top it up with oil. I'll start it and break in the cam etc in a bench before it's going in the car.

Also need to give the muffler a coat of high temp paint.

[attachment=1]

Congratualtions!! When will it go on the dyno?

Plan was to bench-dyno it before it went into the car. But now I think it will be started in a bench, and then dynoed in the car.

I don't know who's got a bench-dyno ready in my area.

We'll see :)

Why are you not using a power pulley?

Need to be able too run it cool on the streets also :)

Oh.. I forgot the warm summer we have in Norway and the crappy fuel quality. BTW, have you noticed all the VW trikes? They have become quite popular lately. Take a good look next time you see one and see if you can spot their fan house.

Haha. If I'm not happy with the power the engine produces with this pulley, I can try a power-pulley, get 10ish more hp and see how much hotter it gets.

BTW Kalle.. Is start up in your bench a alternative?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CMpfEtVRIqs&list=HL1332021667&feature=mh_lolz  (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CMpfEtVRIqs&list=HL1332021667&feature=mh_lolz)


 ;D

Stuska dyno-time tomorrow :D

Got 162,5HP at the flywheel at 6000RPM.

For those of you that has been to SCC, Mr JEE (the man with the stuska) has an Oval with a 2276cc that turned 176hp in the same bench.


So it'll be funny to see how this acts on the street and on the strip

built a 1903 for our racer same webb cam ,ratio rockers ,rods ,044 cnc heads but 48idfs ,runs ok but seems down on expected hp .power from 3500 to 7000+rpm no cooling ,cage bare shell glass rear wings and deck lid rest is og steel.running standard gears with 23inch tall slicks and our best has been 14.2 @91mph.we expected mid 13s ::)40thou squish/deck hight and 10-1 compresion on super unleaded .sounds clean and strong on track.do we need shorter manafolds?any ideas.bit miffed cos we ran 14.8 best on our old thrown together 1679 36 idfs and 1300 flycut heads,stock valves,small bore header ,standard rockers and small cam.on street tyres with wheel spin

The 2276 above made a 198,9hp at a Dynapack.

Drove the car today and it went like a stabbed rat!! ;D from around 3500 to 7000 it's a blast.

A guy in a Audi TT 2.0TFSI could not keep up, and chased me down when I stopped for fuel..
 
He demanded to know what type of Porsche engine I had fitted...