The Cal-look Lounge

Hello all

we have a set of comp.eliminators on our drag car currently with T1 stud spacing, any chance that we could block somehow the holes and redrilling for wbx spacing? I see that the eliminators have enough space -I mean thick material- where they have to be drilled for wbx, so I thought I could use some aluminum rod material to press in the existing holes leaving a depth of 1-1,5 cm empty on both sides to be welded flush with the heads and then redrill. Do you think something like that could work positively or could create potential problems on the sealing of the heads? let's hear some opinions please..

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Dimitrios

Are you going to change the bore the heads are cut for ... larger?

This works. i did it on some 041 heads
Udo

Hello

Tom we're changing from magnesium to wbx-oxy case, I have already those very good heads, I have also 94 JE's, I like to keep the wbx spacing as I can make thick barrels without making channels for the studs, in this case keeping all the strenght of the barrels. Also feels easier to redrill than offset on the case and in plus when we get some bigger heads we can accomodate also bigger cylinders in the wbx spacing

Udo I thought so that it should work but I had to ask the more experienced ones, thanks a lot for the input

So does happen anyone to have some handy drawing of the wbx spacing or I should start measuring?

another point, some threads were damaged in the removing of the studs so I will accomodate some bigger dimension caase savers -like 14mm for example- so as to use the 10mm arp's we have, what should be the thread pitch in this case?? the bigger the better like 14X2 or something else?


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Dimitrios

You can use type4 cylinders with relocated stud holes and 96 pistons. before welding the heads cut them down to the right cc .

Udo

Dimitrios,
The reason I asked is with that method, which is a good one, it would be necessary to weld inside the chambers of the heads if boring larger.
Since you're continuing with the 94mm bore it should work great.
I have used inserts like that to increase the stud pattern size on an aftermarket case with success.
Good luck with ylour project!
TxT

Hello

Udo thanks for the tip, quick question the std T4 barrels are capable of taking big amount of boost -like 2bars lets say- or still need some kind of power sleeving?

Tom thanks for clarifying, now I get why you asked, we just remain to 94 for now. Any tips on the case saver thread pitch?

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Dimitrios

The type4 are big enough

Thanks a lo Udo, that makes things even easier, cheers


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Dimitrios

Hello all

we're done with the modification on the comp. eliminators, now we're featuring wbx stud spacing on them, question now is what we can use as head studs as the T1 arp's we have are longer like 1,5cm,   could we just use the factory wbx or T4 or there is something better like the arp's? I really would like to use some better ones as we're planing like 2bars of boost, please let me hear your opinion, some pics of the modified heads
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg706/scaled.php?server=706&filename=dscn1575fe.jpg&res=landing)
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg24/scaled.php?server=24&filename=dscn1576n.jpg&res=landing)
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg10/scaled.php?server=10&filename=dscn1577dk.jpg&res=landing)

Bugpack's chromoly studs worked for me. I couldn't find a stud that was physically shorter than stock, but I discovered  Bugpack's had more threaded length than ARP and Raceware. It was not the overall length you need to compare, but the length from where the threads start on each end, as that will dictate how much you can shorten the studs while maintaining usable threaded length.

how is the procees taken? did U press alu bar on the holes and welded on suarfaces?

So I suppose we're talking about 10mm studs right? If yes then I'll start searching for them. Does anyone has some csp 10mm studs to see if the do the job also?

Bedjo78 yes, exactly but I welded only from the outer side as the heads were already prepped and wouldn't like to mess with a ot of heat near the chambers, you see also some spots that need strengthening with welding before drilling but I wasn't in a good mood, next time I'll do it properly

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Dimitrios

That's very nice work. I like them

Yes, Bugpack's 10mm studs. These were the ones with the regular thread pitch (this was prior to the fine thread pitch studs being released to market). If you're looking into the fine thread pitch studs, call to confirm they have the same threaded length as their standard 10mm studs.

And the other inconvenience is that any off-the-shelf stud kit you buy will have the deep stud for the top-front of #3. You will need to request a spare top-stud of standard length to complete the set for your oxyboxer.

Thanks for the tip, you're right didn't thought of it at the moment

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Dimitrios