The Cal-look Lounge

Here's a few photos of my '68 Deluxe Beetle, that has slowly morphed into a street-strip ride:

(http://i45.tinypic.com/28cq80z.jpg)
(http://i45.tinypic.com/2w4yc03.jpg)
(http://i48.tinypic.com/358w5li.jpg)

Registered license plate:

(http://i49.tinypic.com/34hfe6x.jpg)

Great Car!!!!
I always loved it

sweet!  ;D

RLR "bolt-in" rollbar powder-coated and installed:

(http://i49.tinypic.com/2416op0.jpg)
(http://i47.tinypic.com/357o7xh.jpg)
(http://i46.tinypic.com/4tm5xk.jpg)
(http://i45.tinypic.com/1580bag.jpg)

JPM MS230 heads (10 fins) flycut by K-Roc, reducing chamber from 60 to 50 cc:

(http://i45.tinypic.com/2ihtq4m.jpg)

New Raptor 06908 camshaft and matched lifters installed for 2012:

(http://i47.tinypic.com/1h809w.jpg)

Having some fun with the Subaru guys:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B2jeGRqRUvo

Hi Neil,

did you have a 86c before?  what's the raptor you have now?  can you share some details about the HP differences?

Dem

Yes, Web 86C was installed previously (among others)...and it was an excellent camshaft, for sure.

Here's the 86C dyno test and specs:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FF2gCti3dro

I haven't been on the dyno, or race track, yet with the new Raptor cam, as I'm fighting some ignition and IDA issues at the moment :(

Hoping to race on Friday and dyno at Concept1 sometime in June.

great!  I hope your problems don't take long to solve.  Can you update this topic if you've been to the dyno with the raptor cam please?  I would like to compare the results.

Dem

Well, it's been exactly one year since the last post.  We had a long winter in Western Canada, just over six months of snow from late-October to late-April...winters are getting longer out here, the past few years!  So, the Beetle has been parked safely in the garage, to save it from the road salt and sand that is liberally applied to our roads.

One of our local high school's had a show & shine today, so I finally got the Beetle out for a drive, after installing some lightweight spun aluminum wheels.  They are 6" wide CMS rears (4.0 kg each) and 3.5" Bogart fronts (3.6 kg each).  Unfortunately the 145R15 front tires are rubbing on the fenders (wings) when making a full turn, so I'll have to look for some smaller tires.  Here's a few iPhone photos from today:

(http://i40.tinypic.com/10ia1hy.jpg)

(http://i44.tinypic.com/2zzuowk.jpg)

(http://i43.tinypic.com/wstyjl.jpg)

Found some sweet centre caps at a local wheel store and some nice repro Wolfsburg stickers from CIP1.ca:

(http://i41.tinypic.com/i59llg.jpg)

(http://i44.tinypic.com/2qlh651.jpg)

Very nice ride  :) :) i´ve an 68 too

Update:  Switched back to the 42 mm IDA venturies and also increased the launch rpm, which produced a 12.8-second ET at elevation (2,200 ft/670 m) and an increase in top end speed to 106.40 MPH (170 km/h).  This is a tenth of a second faster for this particular track/elevation.

60 foot time was 1.793 seconds without a burnout, which is close to my best time.

Now, I'm thinking about racing at sea level in a few weeks at the GCVWS...maybe try for a 12.7 ET ;)

(http://i41.tinypic.com/6f5c1d.jpg)

Please do!  Mission is great every year!  We spoke briefly at the Boston Pizza meet during the GCVWS a few years ago.  Hope to catch up again this year!

Stephen

Update:  Raced at Mission Raceway, BC, August 23rd, during the Great Canadian VW Show weekend and improved ET by 2/10ths!!

12.658 seconds at 106.44 MPH with a 1.718 sixty-foot time...all three of these were PB's :)

No burnout, 22 psi in the M&H 215's and tried to increase the rpms at launch, so that may have helped a bit.  I'm starting to think that the Raptor cam likes high rpms!  Going to increase the CR for next year.

Great to talk with you Stephen, and everyone else!

After wearing out the original 4-wheel stock drum brakes (45-year-old parts), I decided to switch to discs.  Also, at the main drag strip where I race on weekends, they insist on forcing us to turn at the first exit to the return road, which sometimes makes for an "exciting" cornering transition ;)

Picked up some basic 4 x 130 TRW Varga solid discs (copies of the original VW 4-bolt discs).  Since this is primarily a street Beetle, this basic kit should suffice.  Also going to tinker with the IDA's a bit, with some JPM 44mm venturies and some jetting changes on the chassis dyno.  The Raptor venturies dispense with the original auxiliary stacks:

(http://i58.tinypic.com/15yx2tt.jpg)

(http://i58.tinypic.com/6nw9js.jpg)

(http://i62.tinypic.com/bi53r5.jpg)

Decided to bypass the stock fuel lines and upgrade to 9.5 mm fuel lines, Jaycee 3.2 mm IDA needle valves and "top entry" fuel inlets.  Experimenting with the jetting, starting with JPM's recommendations for the Raptor 44 mm vents:  F2, 185 fuel, 180 air. Installed Geers stacks which provide a wider air intake to the IDA's (they don't sit inside, rather they are bored for the top diameter).

Must get on the dyno one of these days.  Ran some easy high 12's in the 1/4-mile last Friday.

(http://i59.tinypic.com/29nflmx.jpg)

Update - Finally got the Beetle onto the Dynojet at Concept 1 on July 24th.  Had enough time to run five tests with various timing advance settings and changing a few jets.  Best test results with 10:1 CR and 94 CLC octane (98 RON):

204.21 WHP
175.45 lb-ft torque

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M9B_H3eklAo

Now that winter as arrived, the next modification will be a new header.  The old basic economy Bugpack header will be retired and replaced with a CSP-JPM Wasp Stage 2.  I will keep the current A1 pipe & Magnaflow muffler, as there is no CSP-JPM muffler available:

(http://i57.tinypic.com/qoj89e.jpg)

So nice your car. Congratulations!

I wish internet would have been around 1986-88 when I lived in North Westminster.
Found out about most of the VW team after moving on. 
I built a 2732 cc engine at the time and did many trip down to the strip in Washington and a couple in California.
Mission I missed in spite of hearing so much about it.

CSP/JPM wasp header muffler is supposed to be at sale on december.  I guess they make 100 to 200 pieces of them(?) before any sales, like 50% for wasp stage 1, 30% wasp stage 2 and 20% for wasp stage 3?   :D


(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/674/cB3u8o.jpg)

I am considering a wasp header over the winter. What made you go stage 2, thought that was for 230bhp plus?
Lee

The Wasp Stage 2 is advertised for 220+ HP. I'm not sure if that's flywheel HP, or to the rear wheels...does anyone know the answer? I currently have 204 WHP, which is ~220 HP at the flywheel (8% conversion).

I will also bump up the CR to 11:1 this winter and run premium fuel.  The Stage 2 starts with 1 5/8" piping at the exhaust port, so that should be good for MS230 exhaust ports.

Neil, what is your premium fuel in Canada rated at RON wise?

my 2027 is running at 10.1 now with RON 97, i am in the midst of collecting some parts to upgrade it (new heads, cam, 82 crank 5.4 rods ) and am considering upping the CR to 11.1

with 10.1, running full german tin i am not having any issues with overheating or pinking so far. just wondering what is the highest i can go with RON97.

We have 95 and 98 RON premium fuel. I have mostly run 95 RON with10:1 CR.

I use 98 RON Petro-Canada when I'm down at sea level and when I used to have 10.7:1 CR.

I have the late-70's German doghouse FI shroud with Venturi ring for cooling.  We also don't get too many warm days above 30 C.

Hi Neil, I know slightly off topic but your fan housing with venturi ring - is that a factory one ? If so do you have any pics showing how close the ring sits into the fan opening, like does it go as far in as possible without fan interference as you might expect ? Or does it sit back off the fanshroud with a gap ?  Reason for asking is I fitted an Awesome Powdercoat Venturi Ring to a 30HP style aftermarket shroud and let the rings pre-bent tabs sit against the fanshroud without further bending, checked for fan spin clearance and then riveted it home. But there is this fairly big gap tha runs most of the way around between shroud and ring edge. If that makes sense ?  I have watched the install video on youtube but it doesn't really show just how close your expected to get the ring up against the shroud and it doesn't show that you have to bend the legs....so real curious to see a VW Factory installed Venturi Ring and compare.

Cheers.

Hi Neil,

The numbers are " flywheel HP numbers."

Rgds Steve

Just measured a factory one, it's about a 12mm gap.

Yes, my venturi ring is an original German FI part, as I bought the complete fan shroud in the condition that it was, when removed from a late-70's Beetle (IIRC a '75 or '76 sedan).  Since the engine is in the Beetle currently, I can't easily measure, but it looks like Zach has already provided the correct dimension above.

Here's a photo:
(http://i58.tinypic.com/fop3i8.jpg)

From CSP webpage:

Wasp Stage 1 (up to 230 hp)
Wasp Stage 2 (220 - 290 hp)
Wasp Stage 3 (from 270 hp onwards)

Hi Neil, was wondering, did you get a chance to weight that collector?
Stainless is heavier than steel, and tubing seems somewhat thick..Just curious about it.
 
Take care, Alex

Yes, it's certainly heavier than my old ceramic Bugpack header.  The Wasp Stage Two header weighs 7.2 kg.

Got around to fitting the Wasp Stage 2 header to mock up how the muffler might be able to fit.  As is usually the case when using parts from different manufacturers, I encountered a few issues:

1.  Berg engine support will not fit, as pipe #3 is in the way.  I can probably build a larger donut to work.
2.  Berg full-flow fittings will not fit, as pipe #4 is a bit too close.  I can probably swap fittings to solve this problem.
3.  A1 tail pipe and Magnaflow muffler will not fit, as pipe #2 is in the way.  I can probably reverse the muffler to the left side, where there is more room.

Here are a few iPhone pictures:
(http://i60.tinypic.com/2hxx647.jpg)
(http://i57.tinypic.com/2crqae0.jpg)
(http://i58.tinypic.com/16j22wn.jpg)
(http://i58.tinypic.com/2d7wlzr.jpg)

Thanks for posting what you found (and pictures) when mounting your new Wasp header! the collector looks closer to the ground as well. I've been considering one of these headers for my car and wanted to know how it would fit. My car is a '68 as well. Thanks!

I took another look tonight and it turns out that I had the collector pointing down a bit too much.  When swiveled upward it is approximately 2.5 cm below the apron:

(http://i60.tinypic.com/kckv4k.jpg)

Here's the side view:
(http://i57.tinypic.com/2i11a53.jpg)

Got around to working on modifying the Berg engine support (traction bar) to fit with the Wasp header.

Since pipe #3 was now interferring with the Berg bar, I had to notch the bar for clearance.  The notch ended up being deeper than I anticipated resulting in the bar being very thin (7 mm).  I took a piece of bar stock and had it welded underneath (thanks, Ken), to add strength under the notch.  Yes, it's a very basic solution, but should do the trick.

(http://i60.tinypic.com/169nwq9.jpg)
(http://i62.tinypic.com/14cvdi9.jpg)
The Berg oil lines are a bit too tight now, so I'll have to change the oil filter mount location, or install longer oil lines.
(http://i59.tinypic.com/54sygw.jpg)

I got the oil lines sorted out by switching to an oil filter mount with "forward facing" ports.  Also, swapped out my vented valve covers for some plain OEM VW covers.  I found the valve cover vents weren't really doing much, as far as venting, and the breather hoses would leak from time to time (a "no no" on the drag strip).  I also drilled the fuel pump block-off plate for a vent and also have a Bugpack vented oil filler with hoses to the CSP breather box.

(http://i62.tinypic.com/52cqpj.jpg)

UPDATE:  installed some nice JPM Raptor stacks on top of the Weber IDA carbs.  Very nice fit, blending into the top lip of the IDA for a smooth transition to the throat.

In my first time back at the track, the Beetle ran 0.16 seconds faster ET and 4.6 km/h (2.9 MPH).

(http://i62.tinypic.com/2uj593m.jpg)

Update:  changed the jets a bit, and will go to the track on Friday to see if this improves the ET.  The latest combo is:

44 mm Raptor venturies
F2 emulsion tubes
220 air correctors (replacing the previous 210's)
185 main jets
65 idle jets with 120 airs
3.0 mm needle valves (replacing the 3.2 mm glass ball valves that didn't seat properly)

The F2's have large holes:
(http://i59.tinypic.com/2u9k6zn.jpg)

Finally sourced some genuine Italian 3.0 mm high-flow needle valves (the aftermarket 3.2 mm glass ball valve is shown on top...they might be great for racing, but seem to be finicky on the street):
(http://i61.tinypic.com/2dsi7w8.jpg)

Got some racing in on Friday.  A couple 12.7's and 12.8 in the mix:  View My Video (http://tinypic.com/r/dvt5wn/8)

Update:  attended the GCVWS Weekend and had a chance to race with the DVKK guys at Mission Raceway.  The Beetle ran 12.5-second ET's twice...once with 220 airs (elevation tune) and again with 180 airs (JPM recommendation) at sea level.  Not enough time to test more, as dew on the track ended the evening after four races.

Lots of wheel spin, so I'll have to look at improving on the stock suspension:)

Awesome runs, keep at it and you will continue to improve.

What are your 60s with the MH 215s?  Completely stock suspension?  Any wheel hope?  What are you trans specs?

What  intakes are you running?  I've got a set of MS230 heads and need manifolds for IDAs.

Coming down for the VW Nationals in a few weeks?

60-ft best is 1.74 seconds, but usually 1.78-1.82 range. Yes, '68 Beetle suspension with stock 21 mm torsion bars, Z-bar & spring plates, although I've added 69 Bus rubber bump stops.

Rancho Pro Comp 3.875 with stock 1-2 and close ratio 3-4. Mohr intermediate trans mount & Berg engine support bar.

Manifolds are CB comp eliminators, but I have heard that Bugpack SF will flow better.

When & where?

http://vwnationals.com

I tried to get a set of bugpack super flow manifolds, no luck, apparently EMPI discontinued them :/

Hi,

Get your 60ft down and your ET will improve BIG time. 1/100 second better 60ft equals 2/10 second better ET at the 1/4" mile. I believe that your absolute best investment this winter would be to work with your rear suspension. 28-30mm torsion bars, remove the bump stops, HD spring plates and a pair of dampers that is able to control the torsion bars. As an example I`m using the same tires on my close to stock weight 67 and my best 60ft is 1.448.

Best rgs
BB

When going through tech inspection at one of the NHRA tracks, the inspector pointed out that low back seats were not acceptable in combination with a roll bar (Ron Lummus Racing 5-point).  A head-rest is required.  So, I'm going to re-install the stock '68 high-back seats.

In order to use the 5-point race harness, I'll install some harness grommets to keep the belts at the correct shoulder height.  I picked these up from HMS Motorsports in the USA.  They're adjustable and should fit the stock seat well:
(http://i61.tinypic.com/ipwhs8.jpg)

Canadian Beetles came with the high-back, here's my originals stamped:  4-April-1968:
(http://i60.tinypic.com/2d6lhjn.jpg)

"68" is molded right into the head-rest:
(http://i59.tinypic.com/241wm7k.jpg)
(http://i59.tinypic.com/jrpc06.jpg)

Original padding is in good shape after 47 years:
(http://i60.tinypic.com/167pkp3.jpg)
(http://i59.tinypic.com/2wofzi8.jpg)

Installed the harness grommets:
(http://i57.tinypic.com/1zh2lbc.jpg)

You know, I always wondered about not having a headrest on cars that have a roll bar with low back seats. As much as I like the look of low back seats, it just didn't look safe to have no support for your head. I have a '68 beetle too so I'm learning a lot by seeing what you've done with your car. Thanks for posting this. 8)

I didn't like the look of the black harness inserts installed in my beige TMI seat covers, so I picked up some Dupli-Colour vinyl & plastic paint and gave it a try:

(http://i61.tinypic.com/23rmhcm.jpg)
(http://i60.tinypic.com/aca447.jpg)
(http://i60.tinypic.com/29z8nq8.jpg)

Purchased some Weber IDA F4 emulsion tubes from CSP to experiment with.  It sounds like they might be a good option to try next.

You should try the Raptor Power jet. It should give you way more adjustability of the main system, than just changing emulsion tubes.

(https://scontent-ams3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/12193591_483388991842866_2782234183984627252_n.jpg?oh=af40d13a03861d399fa92eaa5175089e&oe=56C790E3)

(https://scontent-ams3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpt1/v/t1.0-9/11205054_483389228509509_5865567735320057489_n.jpg?oh=d8c62f82b8e15b29a935608e9db1bfc0&oe=56AE4582)

Do you have any information on this Raptor power jet?

Does it simply bolt on to the IDA's?  How is the fuel line installed?  How much does it cost?  Does it only activate at high rpms?

I went to JPM's website and didn't see the Power Jet.....how does this work? Looks interesting! 8)

 Was the news at DynoDay at JPM in oct. A spacer between stack and housing holds a interchangable jet that gets fuel at WOT from the hose you can see at bottom of  Carb. This makes it possible to adjust the emulsiontube for more low rpm use ( street use) . This is what I unstood .

What is the preferred way to plumb that into the fuel system? How much pressure is needed?

I'm pretty sure it draws fuel in from the float bowl with vacuum. the fuel line just screws into the float bowl drain.

The price is 3995sek for the Raptor Power Jet Kit. Like t11964 said, the kit comes with different jet sizes, hoses and banjo to connect direct to the carburetor fuel bowl, just remove the standard fuel bowl plug and install the banjo. No extra fuel pressure I needed. The Power jet draws fuel from the bowl at very high air speeds at WOT, so it like an extra stage put on top of the standard main system. The standard main system now works more like a midrange system.

There is a little info on JPMs Facebook
https://www.facebook.com/Johannes-Persson-Motorsport-AB-178561615658940/?fref=ts

(https://scontent-ams3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/11855747_460520617463037_8333705720556863267_n.jpg?oh=0db2a096ed39089d8c79ab925ebf89b8&oe=56BA94E8)

It was time to pull the engine for a check-up.  I was concerned about valve guide wear, but after checking, the valves all seem to move smoothly with very little side play evident.  I'll swap out the valve springs, as I have a spare set of the CB VW650 on hand.

The 10-year-old Scat 1.4 rockers are still in excellent shape:

(http://i65.tinypic.com/v7haoj.jpg)

The mag case seems fine, with no leaks or cracks detected:

(http://i68.tinypic.com/16h002b.jpg)

(http://i64.tinypic.com/qsmgyb.jpg)

Will try some aluminum dual-tapered pushrods this year, as the Beetle will be driven more on the street (daughter has moved out and taken our Mk3 Golf with her).  These are Logmech 7075 pushrods:

(http://i62.tinypic.com/35ddmb4.jpg)

Thank you for sharing your updates with the rest of us!

Did you perform a leak down test?

Best rgs
BB

Where did you get your pushrods? Got more infos about them?

Here is the website with contact information for Logmech:  http://logmech.se/eng/products/engine/pushrods/

Thank you  ;)

Neil,

What is the taper sizes?  Your running 650 springs to what lift?

The pushrods taper from 11.9 mm to around 8-9 mm depending on what length you cut them.

I have a Raptor 06908 cam with 10.8 mm lift and with my Scat rockers it dials out to 15.2 mm.

Finally got the engine re-assembled and took the Beetle for a drive around the neighbourhood.  Seems to run very smooth, especially with 6-month-old fuel in the tank ;)

The aluminum pushrods have quieted things down as well.

With the 84 mm crankshaft, the cam lobes come very close to contacting the counterweights.  This is with 10.8 mm lift (0.425") at the lobe:

(http://i68.tinypic.com/lfwvd.jpg)

Johannes turned down the camshaft to clear the H-beam rods.  It gets very tight indeed:

(http://i65.tinypic.com/vawdy.jpg)

Deck Height is 0.5 mm initially...a bit too tight:

(http://i67.tinypic.com/2qxyrm0.jpg)

Installed 1.0 mm copper head gaskets, to bring the deck to 1.5 mm (0.060") and 10:1 CR with the valve notches:

(http://i66.tinypic.com/212v59c.jpg)

Still using an old Berg Centerforce dual friction disc...saves gearboxes:

(http://i63.tinypic.com/2cxjlsx.jpg)

When I re-installed the fanshroud, I noticed that three of the four tabs holding the air intake ring were broken...40 years of engine vibration had taken it's toll.  Decided to braise the tabs, and then gave them a quick shot of rustoleum paint:

(http://i68.tinypic.com/28qrvhx.jpg)

'75 FI doghouse shroud has some interesting air scoops.  Fan is an OEM German 38 mm welded by Gene Berg to prevent the blades from becoming shrapnel:

(http://i68.tinypic.com/2rfcz05.jpg)

Wasp Stage 2 header pipe #1.  Pressure plate is a KEP Stage 2 on an EMPI lightened chromoly flywheel torqued to 405 lb ft with a 36 mm Bugpack chromoly gland nut:

(http://i64.tinypic.com/35he1jp.jpg)

Pipe #3.  They require smaller nuts under the curve (supplied with the CSP kit), but I rounded off a couple by overtightening them, so I'm using larger copper nuts from Concept 1 on top:

(http://i67.tinypic.com/2rzw2yw.jpg)

Well, it was a mixed bag of weather this summer...one of the coldest summers on record.  Still, I managed to get the Beetle to the track on nine weekends for the Street Legal races.  Played with the jetting, but couldn't get the F4 e-tubes to work well, so ended up going back to F2.  The engine just seemed to accelerate better with F2's.

Still running in the mid-12's and will probably look at reducing the vehicle weight this winter.  Would love to run an 11.90 next season.  The valve guides are still leaking a bit, so I'll probably have them replaced this winter.

This was supposed to be our last weekend of racing, but nature once again intervened:

(http://i67.tinypic.com/ndsvv9.jpg)

Nice to see updates :) Good luck for the winter works on it!

Very nice car and times!

Is your crank wedgemated?

Not wedgemated.  CB crank with 8-doweled EMPI flywheel and Bugpack gland nut torqued to 405 ft lb/550 NM.

Picked up a nice 70's style Herrod Helper reproduction from Gilmore Enterprises and had it powder coated Savanna Beige.  Very nice quality aluminum that is a duplicate of the old steel version sold back in the day:

(http://i66.tinypic.com/103hjmh.jpg)

Why so little torque? The only thing that connect your flywheel to the crank is friction and it need torque. I torqued a Scat 38mm nut to 2000nm once without hurting anything. On my own engines I use 1000nm but then again I have adjustable clutch slip.

-BB-

Really 2000nm?what torque wrench do you use for that.
Mine is 500nm as well.

Henk!!!

I used my trusted torque master tool. 2000nm was no problem at all.

Looking really nice, can't wait to see it on the car!

FYI, I tried out the Helper on my 72 once... All it did was make my oil temp go up ::)

Zach, you did not drive fast enough  :)

Yes, I'm going to try out the Herrod Helper primarily on the drag strip, to see if there is any effect at higher speeds. Some have said that they gained somewhere around 5-10 kph at the top end of the drag strip...and greater stability in windy conditions (it's always windy where I race in western Canada).

I'll check my city driving temperatures and report back. Typically my 2332 cc runs on the cool side with oil temps of 180 F, probably due to the MS230 heads, FI doghouse cooling system and Hoodlum deck lid intake.

I did not try it on the strip, that will be an interesting test. I did have the car up near 100mph, I didn't notice any difference in stability. Looking forward to your results Neil.

Did some test fitting today of the Herrod Helper:

(http://i68.tinypic.com/v3lgll.jpg)

Since the air does not follow steep angles very well it is rather obvious why you did not notice any difference Zach. For it to work it need to be mounted above the rear window. If it was A LOT larger with HUGE side panels it would help on the side stability.

I forgot properly close/lock my engine lid and it bounced up in the launch and was held up by the original springs at 130 mph. It did not move at all and I even have that on film if I can find it. Just google aerodynamics and vw beetle and you will all the info you want on this interesting subject.

-BB-

It seems that there is quite a variety of experiences with the Herrod Helper.  Some have said that even at 75-80 MPH (120-130 Km/h), they noticed much better handling on the highway in windy conditions or when passing a large truck. Others said they didn't feel any difference until 90-100 MPH (145-160 km/h). Since I live where the wind always blow, I'll be interested in the effect.

Apparently Dean Lowry added one to his 133 MPH salt flat Beetle and went 141 MPH the next time out. I notice that the New Beetle has the spoiler primarily under the rear window, although some have it above. It seems like VW can't quite decided.

This one?

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=MbtbHH5Mjbg

Cool. Thanks Erlend. There is a other one from the rear but I guess everyone get the point.

Picked up a "Kamei-repro" front air dam here in town.  It's made in fibreglass by an Australian company called V-Force Performance:

(http://i65.tinypic.com/2q9xw1l.jpg)

Ended up using a spare spray can of Duplicolor "Desert Sand" to colour match the air dam/spoiler.  It turns out that it's actually a fairly close match to the factory L620 Savanna Beige...not perfect, but close enough for a spoiler that will hang under the front bumper:

(http://i65.tinypic.com/51y1eh.jpg)

Did the test install and it went fairly smoothly.  I used four 5 mm bolts, as per the old Kamei instructions.  However, I drilled only into the bottom of the bumper for the four bolt holes, as I didn't want to drill the fenders for two bolts:

(http://i67.tinypic.com/2ep7dko.jpg)

(http://i64.tinypic.com/263ucr5.jpg)

Finally got the Wasp muffler installed after modifying the Berg traction bar, changing the disc brake caliper line to a banjo fitting (for clearance) and adding a 3.5 cm extension to the collector.  I was able to use one of my Weber window bolt holes for one of the two muffler anchors and drill a second hole just forward of the firewall:

(http://i68.tinypic.com/2uiwwzo.jpg)

(http://i67.tinypic.com/bg8nd3.jpg)

(http://i68.tinypic.com/15gxm51.jpg)

 

Very cool build.  Thanks for sharing your story and updates.

Just curious, have you considered replacing the Berg traction bar with a Torque bar set up?
 

Yes, I have considered a torque bar. However, for now I want to keep the stock Z-Bar and other suspension components stock. That might change some day.

Received my Raptor Power Jet kit :)
The kit comes with three sets of jets, as expected.  They are 80, 100 & 120 sizes.  Can anyone provide a good starting point?  I have a large engine and intake (eg. 44 mm venturies), so I'm thinking either 100 or 120 jets to start.  Then I'll reduce the main jets from 185 to 160.

Thanks!

Installed the JPM Raptor power jet kits on the IDAs.  Had to slightly file some clearance on one corner of the stock jet screens and Jaycee air deflectors, and also swap one of the CB Performance linkage bolts.  Does anyone have any ballpark jetting recommendations?  It sounds like there are lots of these kits in circulation, as mine are from the second batch.  However, I haven't seen any information on them.  I'm going to start by reducing my 185 main jet to 160.

(http://i68.tinypic.com/71kykp.jpg)

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Decided to rebuild the 2332 cc after 10+ years of racing.  Picked up an EMPI Auto Linea aluminum case, and will use a new set of Mahle 94 mm cylinders (to replace the old slip-in 94's).  Also new this year will be the Wasp muffler and JPM camshaft:

(http://i66.tinypic.com/6olco8.jpg)

One of JPM's new grinds #10009:

(http://i67.tinypic.com/6pb3nn.jpg)

Tight clearances for the cam lobes and crankshaft counterweights, but it all fits:

(http://i66.tinypic.com/14aeps6.jpg)

Everything test fitted.  Berg 3.5-litre sump would not bolt on, so both the case and sump required clearancing:

(http://i64.tinypic.com/23vdopd.jpg)

New M&H street-strip rear tires and Continental 145/65's on the front.

Finally decided to ditch my old CB crossbar linkage and Latest Rage breather tower, as they were both getting old and causing problems.  Decided to go with the Vintage Speed bell crank linkage and VS breather tower:

(http://i67.tinypic.com/2m5e0ja.jpg)

With no racing at mission this year are you coming out for the great Canadian Neil? I really dig your motor program....have you ran the raptor vents yet?

Josh

I'm not coming to GCVWS this year, as I kind of lost enthusiasm when the drag racing was dropped :(  Will race locally tomorrow and then head down to Idaho Falls for the solar eclipse instead.  Hope you have good weather!

I'm running the Raptor vents & stacks, but not the Power Jets.  I can't get the Power Jets to work smoothly at the track and I can't find anyone who has ever run them, as far as I can tell in my internet searches (one guy in Sweden on Instagram is all I've found).  I'll try to get on the Dynojet some day and play with the Power Jets.

Decided to tinker some more this winter, starting with upgrading the intake.  Picked up some EMPI 51 mm carbs on sale and swapped the Raptor venturies, stacks and power jets over.  All parts fit the same as on the Weber IDA, so that was nice.  I had to slightly port the top of the manifolds, as they measured 50.3 mm.  Due to the cold weather and snow, I haven't been able to make the trip to the Dynojet, so that may have to wait until spring.

(http://i65.tinypic.com/2l9mg45.jpg)

(http://i64.tinypic.com/x1hao2.jpg)

Hello Neil, how do you find the difference between two Raptor Cams you have used in the past? I´m thinking of waking up my 181 after 4 years of retirement and upgrading my engine with JPM parts a bit in your fashion.

Thanks,

Jan

My ET was faster with the first Raptor cam (274 degrees) than the newest one (282 degrees).  That might be because my Beetle is heavy:  930 kg with driver at last check.

However, having said that, I've been unable to get on the Dynojet to properly tune this setup, due to our long, cold winter.  I'm going to experiment a bit more before deciding which camshaft is better.

Hopefully we'll see you at this years GCVW show now that drag racing is back :)

If work allows, I might be there!

AWESOME!

Hello Neil! Any updates and news?  :)

I’ve decided to go back to my first Raptor camshaft #06908 (274 degrees).  The Beetle is slower with the #10009 cam (282 degrees), probably because the car is too heavy and not enough CR (I don’t want to flycut the MS230 heads any further).