The Cal-look Lounge

Hey Guys,

I am experiencing varying degrees of clutch slip when motor pushed hard at the drags. ( seems perfectly normal on the road )  Some of this slip may be worsened from linelock held burnouts on DOT's.......?

I run a new style, ie multi finger KEP2 with a Kushloc disc. Thought this combo should be ok but maybe not ? motor makes 195 ft / lbs.( I have emailed CB and Kennedy already for their thoughts but so far no response )

I have run a Daiken Super before but it is a little harsher on engagement but on my old race motor that I think made around 165 - 170 ft / lbs. So before I go down the Daiken road wanted to see what people thought and used.

Thanks

Shane.

Hi Shane,

I run a KEP 2 and daiken disc, never had any clutch slip. Thats with slicks and low 1.5 60 foots too.

Lee

Cheers Lee, that's one thumbs up for Daiken  ;D

Stage 2 and genuine super daikin in Jo's red car,and a few others thats I have built,tried the daikin copy in a couple but they didnt last very long.

cheers richie

Why nowbody runs the Stage 3 Kennedy?

Actually Shane, believe my one is a 'super' if that makes any difference!!

Lee

Why would you use a Stage 3?

I have,but for me when the stage 2 with whatever disc you are using is no longer enough then you need a better disc,not more pressure,as an example when my old cabrio was a nitrous car and the stage 2 and daikin slipped I went down to a stage 1,but swapped to a 4 puck disc,and yes it was ok on the street,got lots of miles on that combo

cheers richie

Hey Richie

Was good to see you guys last weekend.  Yep reckon I'll go Daiken Super then. Have you ever had experience or heard about limitations of Kushloc disc ? Was talking with Danny and he said he fried a Kushloc too with way less motor power - reckons it just started fragmenting on the lining so was grab / slip etc against the flywheel...

When you step up on disc grab and down on clamp pressure, ie stage 1 I presume this is to protect the motor somehow from being all too much clutch or is it better to get away with as little clamp pressure as possible ? I always thought the clamp pressure was more important than the disc grab ? Only from being told that a longtime ago.

Cheers Shane.

With alot of the metalic discs they grip better as they get hotter,so you can get away with a lighter cover,get a little slip on the launch helping your gearbox live longer but still gripping down the track,and a lighter pedal helps as well, this is only a theory though as I have broken my share of boxes :o :D  But usually that happens when you get gready and try to make sometrhing do what its not intended for.

Has been a few years since we were both at the track at the same time,was good to catch up :)

cheers richie

Did you check the flywheel and pressure plate for straightness? Warp from heat has been an issue for me.

I used to love kush lock centres with a stage 1 on my 1776c tried a stage 2 and a kush lock on the 2276cc and had lots of issues, now run a centre force with a stage 2 and it's been fine.

I totally agree with what Richie said and also JS. A new KEP can will warp no matter what. But after re-grinding it the first time it seems to hold better.

I have also found that a original flywheel will hold better compared to a aftermarked one.

-BB-

Thanks guys for your feedback.

I imagine the "trueness" of the flywheel and clutch were checked when JMR built the motor. I certainly haven't done any checking since and have done maybe 10 - 12 passes now and maybe 500 road miles since fresh.

Interesting that about KEP's......I hadn't heard of this before.

Alex, interesting you had issues with Kushloc when clamping pressure went up - what kind of issues did you experience then and condition of clutch components and flywheel when you replaced clutch disc ?

Thanks Shane.

Forgot to mention whether it makes a difference of not that my flywheel is BugPack flanged..............so yes aftermarket.

I destroyed a kush lock centre plate it was in pieces and even before that slipped really bad, I got the stage 2 re surfaced and used a centre force and haven't had an issue since. I tend to be hard on clutches.

stop posting on here and finish editing those vids  :D

 I have tried alot of differant clutch setups the last couple years, first because of slippage in third and forth gears and then from breakage of the trans. I purchased a RLR REV6 setup and took it to the track, FANTASTIC  piece of equiptment. I did not do any burnouts and clicked off 1.35 60 fts  and 6.45 ets. This engine is in my PRO OUTLAW car but is the one set up for the street car I am building. If anyone needs more clutch then they have now let me know I may have it ( Kennedy double, Tilton Double, stage 1,2,3 Kennedy plates for single discs, not needed anymore ) . Mike McCarthy

(http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k300/dragvw2180/rev6001.jpg)

You might be surprised. I was for sure: 0,8mm "bowl" shape on the pressure plate alone... Flywheel surface was also uneven.
I resurface the pressure plate and change or glass blast the disc every winter. Like BB says it was definitely worst when it was new.

Mike that RLR setup looks mean. That's incredible nailing 1.35 60 ft's and without putting any heat into the tyres. Very cool indeed.

JS and BB thanks for sharing that info. To be honest I am shocked too at your discoveries with new "hi-performance" / " racing " equipment. I for one would not expect to have to carry out any mods etc so soon after relatively little use but it just goes to show.............