The Cal-look Lounge

Hi I'm collecting parts for 2500cc turbo 4" motor my options as I see it are

Oxyboxer
Scat killer
Autocraft
Pauter

I like the idea of being able to check bearings without splitting the case but that's not going to be the decider at present nor is cost whats your options on cases pls guys

Cheers andy

also consider TF1,nice case 100thou cam drop,lots of options when ordering,stud pattern,oil relief,flange crank etc


all the above is just my opinion so dont take it as gospel,there are others out ther who much more than me who will no doubt be along to tell you what they would do ;)

cheers richie

I like the Autocraft case personally but you can't go wrong with the TF-1. Todds a great guy and he can set it diffrent ways for you like Richie said. The Pauter is probably the top but mainly for a drag car. The Autocraft will be a while before any are ready and the Scats not available either. The WBX is ok but needs alot of work and needs to be cut to run all type4 bearings. (http://)(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll186/shag55/22d8c693.jpg)

i just got my autocraft case from geers. wery nice case and he did all the work on it so it is just to drop my parts in it and go.

so if it was me i would eather call geers or roger and order one redy after your specs.

The Pauter case is available type 1 bore spacing that will take a regular type 1 flanged crank, these are available in regular type 1 stud pattern and autocraft stud pattern.
The thrust on the crank will need opening to suit the chrysler thrust bearing.
The pauter spread bore takes a custom crank.
I would get a pauter and be done, they are right out of the box.

For 4inch? ok I learned something :)

cheers richie

Thanks for the info guys looks like it Pauter or Oxyboxer there is a hell of a lot of machine work to be done so it will probably not be far off the the cost of a Pauter

Cheers andy

And with a pauter you know it will work,with a wbx you have the small possibility that you do all the work to it and then find it has a flaw in it

cheers richie

then remember to order the case with wbx pattarn if you use jpm heads.

This is my type 1 bore spacing, 4" bore, autocraft stud patten case. The engine is going in my 1965 street bug. berg bus 5.
Hoping for 240-250hp  na 2789cc, mild state of tune. Just want to build my idea of a modern cal look car.

thanks guys ive contacted Pauter and yes t1 cranks can be used on 4" but the come ready for roller follows can they be used on a T1 cam?

cheers andy

If you are going Pauter you should go all the way! They were doing flat tappet before.

May I read this wrong ???

Pauter Big Block is manufactured with type 1 cam mains , normal flat tapped cam bolts right in .
All blocks are set up for roller lifters.
 
Mario Tavares
Performance Technician and Sales
PAUTER MACHINE CO.
619-422-5384 PH , 619-422-1924 FAX
www.pauter.com

Cheers andy

i think this is my answer they take both the way i read it ?

Both type of cams will fit , lifters bore is prepped for roller lifters

Mario Tavares
Performance Technician and Sales
PAUTER MACHINE CO.
619-422-5384 PH , 619-422-1924 FAX
www.pauter.com

same style type 1 cam will fit,but they are set up for roller lifters so you will have to special order for flat tappet

cheers richie

Are you referring to lifter guidance cut-outs or maybe the flat part of the lifter wall or something in Pauter cases set up for rollers?
Yeah, that would not ideal or flatout prevent running a normal circular VW lifter.

The ones I have seen have a flat cut out for lifter guidance

cheers richie

i know geers have a wbx case he have been working on. and it is for sale.. give him a ring.

Hey just a question about the case in the picture , not really bringing the topic back from the dead but this appears to be a wet sump case but how the hell does the oil get back into it? 

Thanks

Hi ,
i think through the two cross shaped holes , not very huge for sure

Don actually exchanged that sump for a later version for no charge, The newer sump has a 2 large square holes and a few round drain holes as well.

anyone running the TF-1 now? with stock type 1 tins etc?


been thinking about a new case as well and was actually considering buying a new aluminium block from CB, and get all the machining below done in USA, till i read this thread

1. sleeve lifter bores bronze, aluminium, whichever they recommend.
2. Bob Hoover Oiling Mod
3. clearance for 86mm crank, stress relief
4. full-flow, drill and tap all oil galleries
5. check main bearing for straightness
6. cut for groove metal cam plug
7. German pickup tube
8. flat spot the perimeter bolts for Berg case conversion kit

basically blueprint and check everything so all i need to do is to go through and assemble.

but with the amount of machine work, might as well just go for the TF-1?

The only work a CB case really needs is deburring. I've been running them for years, and the only things on your list, the Bob Hoover oiling mod and the German pick-up are pretty much already done. I really don't know what the hoover deal is all about. I use  5/16" grade 8 washers and the 8mm head nuts around the perimeter.

The TF 1 case needs internal deburring as well.

TF1 case needs alot of work,every batch todd does is getting better but it definately isnt "ready to use straight out the box"

cheers Richie

thanks Mike, i will try and call CB and speak to them direct.  due to my location, Singapore, i don't have access to competent machine shops who are familiar and willing to work on these type of work, hence everything i order needs to be finished, checked and done in the USA as much as possible, cant afford to send anything back.  :)

i like to use the 8mm head nuts and washers around the perimeter. may not be required , just that i am used to this from the Berg old book...:)

Just use 5/16"  SAE grade 8 flat washers instead of the head washers. No spot facing necessary. I've put a few of these together. An 84mm crank drops right in with no issues. The factory clearancing is good for 86mm.

Just deburr the inside with a dremel, pull the plugs and clean it really good.