The Cal-look Lounge

I've currently removed the 36hp from the '58 and will be removing the heads to replace the pushrod tubes/seals etc to get on top of the oil leaks.    I will be adding dual 28PCI carbs on Express manifolds and an 019 distributor. 

I've also asked this on theSamba Vintage Speed forum, but thought it would also be good to see what people think here.    Are there any simple modifications that a novice (ME) could attempt to take advantage of having the carbs?

It is still single port...

Thanks
Richard

Can't get it in if you can't get it out, so get a free flowing exhaust. And since you've got the heads off, a valve job and a flycut for more compression will really help. Just make sure your bottom end is sound.

Hi Zach
Need to stick with the stock exhaust for now (cost) so have fitted so big bore unbaffled tailpipes to make it flow more easily.  I will see if I can find someone who can flycut the heads. 
Thanks
Richard

Rich engine bhp is mainly made in good flowing heads , any head work you undertake will be strangled by a stock muffler , dig deep buddy and find a merged header for that 36 er  ;)

Glenn, yes one day but according to the 1950s book 'Souping the Volkswagen' even pulling the baffle from a stock tailpipe can make a huge difference!

Hope all is good with you. 
Richard

maybe look at fitting cam bearings when you get chance, think the case has to be machined to take them... :)

What you really need is to give Ray Schubert a bell at Speedwell , he can fab you up one of his 356 carrera mufflers .

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ejLwH_Yj9TY

Had a chat with him at Volksword  show where he had one on display and was really impressed with it and very reasonably priced too , top bloke  8)

Oh and may need you to pop over to take some pic's of my ride again soon  ;)

Hi Glenn
Would definiately like one of those Speedwell systems (as on Dick Mitchell's Oval) but it won't be this year!

Would be great to pop over but it would more than blow my VW budget; 5 years is a long time to be away. :(

Do a valve job and get some better valve springs to be able to rev more. Flycut 2mm and change the intake to 34mm. Dual 28 and a Reichert intake kit that is still available. Met Mr Reichert last may and he is still active and selling his kits. I have reground cams with better lift and duration for sale and several motors running with this stuff.

Not sure I can pull the money together at the moment for the bigger valves but will look into it.  34mm sounds big; don't the Okrasa dual port heads have 33mm?

Thanks
Richard

Made some decisions; 2mm flycut and 33mm (Okrasa 36hp size) intakes.  I can get HD springs but will I need them? Not getting into the bottom end (which seems sound) so stock cam and can't locate anything more than stock retainers and keepers.   Will my new setup rev much higher so meaning I need the springs or will I increase wear with no gain?

Thanks
Richard

Anyone have any thoughts on this...looking to order as our show season is coming!
Thanks
Richard

Got my heads back...mild mods for most of you on here but moving towards what I want for the '58...as planned, 2mm flycut (will give 7.5:1 CR up from stock 6.6:1), 33mm intakes, mild porting and HD valve springs.  Now time to get the engine back together, get the linkage sorted for the dual 28PCI carbs and off to our Spring Jamboree (18th November).

(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-jvM7JOPPauQ/UI9yiVX9FiI/AAAAAAAAD-w/n7qfCPSgYGI/s800/DSC_0103.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-TZbR3TcL54w/UGfKb8zycOI/AAAAAAAAD-M/XSgWhfxmDJs/s800/DSC_0003.JPG)

Manifold for 28pci carb is your hand-made work ?  :D

They look great !

Manifolds appear to be Autotechnik Express modified by a previous owner with new balance tubes and the old balance tube threads used to mount the linkage....they will be good but I just need to get the linkage sorted.  I'll post some more pictures when things progress.
Thanks
Richard 

Something I did on my 40 hp motor richard.

Couple more shots

Hope mine turns out as good as yours Danny.

I'm now moving on with assembly and have a query....you'll see that the heads have been machined deeper (2mm) and slightly less taken off the 'face' to keep as much of the fin as possible.  When I slide the head onto the barrels there is very little clearance (if any) between the step in the barrel and the face of the head.  I'm therefore concerned that the top of the cylinder may or may not be seating properly in the head/chamber.  How can I check if it is seating OK and how much clearance should I have between the head and the step in the barrel?

Looks like I may need a little modification done to the heads (given I don't want to take the barrels off the car).

Many thanks
Richard

I think you would want 1mm clearence at least. More is always better for cooling reasons.
Choice is simple indeed: from either side you cab take material away. Just see what is more easy to accomplish.

Thanks Airspeed
Plenty of clearance between fins it just appears that the step in the barrel may be stopping it going deep enough into the head.   I'll get some plasticine or similar today and torque the head down to check....but even if this is OK should there be some clearance between the step in the barrel (between the machined section that goes in the head and the first fin) and the head? 1mm here sounds a lot?

Thanks
Richard

Just had both heads on with modelling clay to check fit and clearances....all looks OK...so will assemble at the weekend. 

Richard

...having trouble adjusting the valves (too little clearance) even after shortening pushrods 2mm...got to sort this, the linkage and fuel pipes and then back on the road!
Richard
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-SyRYpTY2nr8/UKCX2YLEJ3I/AAAAAAAAEAk/aKtKE3EI2tg/s800/DSC_0003-002.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-BsVwyEidOg8/UKCaLLx0uSI/AAAAAAAAEA0/ZknCTWZJwys/s800/DSC_0002-002.JPG)

Nearly finished...


(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-EOWi0Kh48z0/UKsq85X9JaI/AAAAAAAAEBU/rXBkK2GfCrU/s640/DSC_0001-002.JPG)

Definately looks the business!
Nice job!

Nice work Rich , they look like old stainless cartune exhaust pipes ?
 If they are make sure the clamps are double tight as their slightly smaller diameter than STD  
lost one of mine once  ;)

Thanks for the compliments!

I couldn't get any cartune pipes so had TurboThomas make some up to my dimensions....fit really well. 

Richard

Unfortunately the dual carb engine for the ’58 has been on hold for a few months as I’ve had some other issues (not with the car!) that needed my attention.  As a result I’ve missed the whole of the summer here but now have time to begin work again.

Had issues with the heads not sealing on the barrels, which meant that I had to pull the barrels to square up their top edge.  Then found I had broken rings….barrels now honed and rings found but now have to begin reassembly again.

Anyway; to make it all easier I decided I needed an engine stand rather than try to work on an engine that was sat on a box.  There was a generic engine stand on offer in one of the auto parts stores here so I bought it on Saturday to only afterwards realise how hard it is to bolt a VW engine to this, particularly with the flywheel in place. 

My first thought was to not use the head that came with the stand and to use one of the EMPI heads from their stand that bolts to a workbench as these are easily available here.  However the ‘shaft ‘ on this is only just over 40mm whereas the one on my stand is 60mm.

Has anyone adapted a generic stand to use with a VW engine (without resorting to welding etc)?
Many thanks
Richard

Yep.
I used an old gearbox clutch housing and cut big windows in it each side, then bolted that (easy to use the input shaft hole) to a bit of steampipe the right diameter to slide into the generic stand of which you speak.
 ;)

PS Did you make the stacks? Very cool!

Sounds a good way to do it.  Do you have a photo?

The stacks came from Aircooled Research; look the part and good price too.

Thanks
Richard

Long delayed reply!  Engine back in and running now.  Had to do some modifications to linkage, as the previous owner of the manifolds had tried use ill fitting imperial helm joints in metric threads...they fell out as soon as I tried to use them!  New metric joints now fitted. 

The main issue I now have is the engine is idling too fast, with both carbs shut right down.  I have new gaskets etc so don't think I have any air leaks.  Any thoughts?  Can I use the volume control screws to slow it?  Alternatively should I be looking at my jetting (currently stock on each carb)?

Overall....it goes really well, just this one issue.


FYI...pictures of the modified engine stand.  It is a generic stand with an 'EMPI' bench mount stand adapted to fit by adding an adapter tube around the outside to increase its diameter.  Overall a pretty cheap stand.

(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-oP-q-8HuuLA/Uja_j3pSVnI/AAAAAAAAEHY/2IgeL7Jk8uw/s640/IMG_6656.JPG)

Thanks
Richard

Gday Richard.
Cool stand!
My 2c for the high idle is probably either too much fuel/air mix, which means even though the screws are shut off they may also need idle feed restrictions (just a guess based on V8 Holley/Carter stuff though, never had twin singles on an ACVW, sorry), or else a manifold vacuum leak somewhere. Have you checked the carbs for small vacuum hose connections that aren't plugged up? Crossover connections on the runner stacks that have cracks?
Cool looking old Dak-Dak man!  ;D

Modnrod; thanks for the thoughts.  Need to double check for air leaks again.
regards
Richard

Idle-feed restrictor is caveman speak for idle-fuel jets. They govern the part-throttle fuel curve.

Are the throttle shafts tight in the bore? One slightly leaky shaft may not leak enough air to affect the idle speed but two leaky shafts will.

Also, just because a carburetor throttle-shaft bore has been rebushed doesn't mean that the carburetor will work properly. When the throttle-shaft bore wears the harder brass butterfly will gouge a nice trough in the throttle bore. Even though I had Rimco re-bush the 34PICT3 for another car I couldn't figure out why I couldn't set a really slow idle until I started working with Solex PII carburetors. Those suffer it terribly.

just a thought....

Thanks for the additional thoughts. I'll have a closer look at the carbs although did initially think that they were ok.

Hope to post a movie of it running soon too.

Thanks

Richard

Check for air leaks with carb cleaner.  Spray it at the base of the manifolds and the base of the carbs and around the outside of the carb.  Do this while the engine is running and if the speed changes dramatically then you have found the leak.  Old school...

It works but it's never been foolproof for me. I've had examples where carb cleaner didn't reveal leaks, especially ones behind a maze of parts. And because I'm a tight ass and rattle can my tins the carb cleaner sometimes eats up the finish. Also some modern carb cleaners aren't flammable.

Here's another old-school way. Get a foot-long piece of fuel hose with an ID about the same diameter as the OD of a propane torch tube (sometimes you have to remove the mixer). Turn on the torch and waft the hose end over the suspect areas. It's never let me down. Plus it won't mess up your finish. And last I checked they haven't changed propane to a non-flammable formula. At least not yet. Give them time.  ::)

But definitely try the carb cleaner first if it won't mess up your tin finish. Way more convenient. 

Used the carb cleaner and did get a drop in speed; mainly around the spindles so rebuilds will be needed sometime. Will just put up with it for now though so I can enjoy the car over the summer.

Thanks for the assistance.

Richard

Sorry bud but they're beyond just rebuilding. They need to be bushed. It's not the end of the world but it's not exactly a common procedure anymore. Don't bother bushing them if you can feel even a faint line where the butterflies meet the throttle bores. That indicates that the butterflies have dug in and you'll never get a good idle if that's the case. They need to be bored at that point and that's a super-involved operation compared to bushing them.

Sorry for delayed reply...packing ready to move houses (and before that trying to find a house...all sorted now with a good garage and car port!).  Will pull the carbs in the winter and check them over some more in light of your advice.  For now will enjoy driving the car and our show season!

Thanks
Richard

Update on my car...

Finally back on the road again having destroyed a clutch release bearing in Oct'14...now with rebuilt tunnel trans (with superdiff etc ready for a stroker engine one day...), new Koni shocks all round, Goodridge Classic Brake Hoses, Type 3 rear brakes and a 14" Berg Shifter.

Great to be driving again...

Next step will be to get the rear wheels widened (I'm thinking 5 inch with increased back space allowable by fitting the Type 3 drums), and 185/80 tyres on the rear and 155/80 on the front....along with a minor decamber on the rear to move from the current positive camber....probably early in 2016.

Richard

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/50nKAlocyE0QRGwSt165H4DNbi_8LzC76rfUM8SQUvGhWV_TBu0NQI-yX5u1NYGuEkAoupFkLmow2qABd9x-7967Km2C2dp9X20ADRKOd9-ObLM9QQpsij6D6eEnsOLl8f02zIYoJGCeWM4Y8GVgWFFaeVs0z1J2wRUTkwMy38V97Pfu9ML4Cg3o3IBgpSfLrzxIB8OnweaZBdgC9AYwRigaPj8nETQzTNp50H0xCRoY2uLivwKr2Jt6Ov7rUICkyJqqE2uagnhwohRiNcbQeLbzF9GObr1dT_i45y4DJZsawNHhurMzrSKJIXVbzQ1gDMVSXKJBCqs1hV66X-03xvnf_fFW98bAsdryr7WxHw_vzq4PmWcQd1KMkjq4Cdlwdi_BY_bs0nAmOXjSTuHIfAYKU_G4O27c_Cy4un2_9AzaTz8oX3bNcyCyt29KdGvX5tfINGrTkR9IQ3WIgcmhUTb78uW4qe0W10DTnSQTDY86MJKreMo02SnI_9o3GJWERK4bltb8lJG1bZai9Nt0qaHFN2RCaFOFgfM2Pg-44xlMPy8fervut9fggvo87yWGj3BFcQ=w1438-h955-no)

Ok...finally got some wheels widened.  But as usual one step forward and two steps back.

Took off the existing rear wheel to check the fit of the new wheel (5 1/2 inch rims added to original centres  with maximum backspace to hide the fact that they are widened when looking from the side).  All seems OK.  However, when refitting the original wheel I've managed to somehow strip the thread for one bolt.  Didn't do anything different to what I had always done, but think it must just be the quality of the Type3 drums I've fitted?

I'm assuming the best option is to fit studs?  Does anyone know of a 'how to' anywhere for this?  Are these the studs I need?  http://www.socalautoparts.com/product_info.php/aftermarket-wheel-stud-m14-50mm-press-style-porsche-p-15136 (http://www.socalautoparts.com/product_info.php/aftermarket-wheel-stud-m14-50mm-press-style-porsche-p-15136) .   I'm assuming that given the potential 'softness' of the drums the press in studs would be better than screw in studs?

The widened wheel in case anyone wants to see....

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/absGsMUvQYPOrB_uBYA_EZzhTygWSAQfC9P6_nOYyDj4Thl4Q2UssNWOkl02XlFiYL1WLSAnBt1vNH4XiFn3Wy3UfwgE6UPvEVyGbK-qQgFvPZKbulAKMaODYBIvbdkbjYdGkqqKhvJpgipIGJcM42WNeRpzShpiklLIplsbsEWIsiST3OvJoA4_Gz64m1FW0dmv5e4IEl2_tK7xxq57zPfK6zVr51OeM40b-OYb8cYfEqzh1Jykf_8AuyVDnrMn27qhjOCf-eeFisTJR9YgXcnUickqZ4_heHPjT1QOGuHraU6GBbRmtjdc_08Ainczp1PtmYnZ9l6gLAJNBVIv61qi5HLxz8OT2xRzVcBoWZbUvyK6uwBuS-2GHsxoMBC2sgHxJ1qu1EUnOfcRSfgnEK-Pk3vO7Zj0o03C_rlc9uZwg_8SEhNv4Hulo_oAjA30fynnm6nG2lP80hfVRHSEyN2kVrifwiwxn7OuAyT7gOTxvvhbBbm7SswPXvXPrFPVai0L94pIfhFZn2nY2iSlWTnEcNM86jKCHl8MG6wklFXBLhssJ--aaArZ5L6KvFbcjCGuShv1I9DpPac1EPDFazAu8oLSbLE=w538-h955-no)

Thanks
Richard

Man, your wheel setup is almost identical to what I'm looking at for my '67, but with smoothies instead of the goofy '66/'67 wheels... I was considering doing mine to 5 inches up front and 5.5 in the rear, but absolutely nobody in Denver wants to widen steel wheels unless almost all of the work is done for them, so the 5 inchers I found at a swap meet will have to do for the rears... Glad to see someone else wanting to do steelies on a looker, I thought I might be the only one!

I will soon be in LA and it'd be a good opportunity to buy a gift for the '58.   Would my setup benefit from ratio rockers (to save people reading the whole thread the engine is stock 36hp bottom end, cam etc but large intake valves in Stock 36hp single port heads,compression now 7.5:1, dual 28pci carbs, stock exhaust and TDE big bore tail pipes).

Thanks

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They might help, especially if you give it a little port work.

If you can get some grab them, they seem to be hard to get and if you don't need them straight away then you will as the tuning progresses  ;) ;D

cheers Richie

Thanks for the help.

Yes, thinking of exploring the power of 36hp a little further before upgrading to something much larger...   Add rockers and an exhaust (I've been told there will soon be a quiet Sebring style available for 36hp)?

However, if I can manage to find them, the Speedwell rockers are available in 1.25:1 and 1.4:1.  I'm guessing I'd go for the lower ratio?  Also, I was assuming that this was just a bolt on job, but as my heads are skimmed (2mm) and compression increased could I possibly have an issue with valve/piston clearance?

Richard

The 1.4/1 definitely cause other problems, the lifter/pushrod cant change angle like a conventional VW and the 1.4s work through more of an arc so need to be able to, not sure how bad it is with 1.25s

Thanks for that.  I'll see what I can find out about the 1.25s.

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Found some 1.4s.   I'm told by a 36hp specialist that  they will be OK with stock lifters/pushrods and also with my flycut heads.  However, if there is a problem with the lifters etc I will move to 'conventional'  2 piece setup.   Have also sourced some aluminum valve covers to give the clearance needed.   With the obligatory t-shirts etc from the trip I think my suitcase is now full up!

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cool, good work, I also run a dual carb 36hp, but then with the WW okrasa heads, and modified my stock exhaust with TDE tail pipes and I also removed the preheat pipes, just cut out the preheat pipe and welded a piece of metal in, this improves the flow as well. Make sure you run a Original VW muffler, see also a thread about this on the samba, as original exhaust do have a better flow then some repro's.

Good point about the original VW exhaust; however mine is a repro!  I'm still aiming for a Sebring style sometime later this year!

yesterday I spend about an hour to find that topic about the original exhaust on the samba for you to post the link, but I didn't succeed to find it. the issue is that some aftermarket mufflers have baffles in the exhaust which has quite some impact on the flow. It is a cheaper way to produce so that's why.
But when you remove the preheat pipe you will get some more flow as well! Original VW exhaust can be found around 200 euro's, so it is cheaper then a flat 4 or whatever vintage speed exhaust, and doubt the improvement, so if you are on a budget this might be the best way to go. Also Original VW exhaust has more or less equal pipe length.

Vintage Speed now list a Sebring style exhaust for 36hp engines; see http://shop.vintagespeed.com.tw/s.nl/it.A/id.872/.f (http://shop.vintagespeed.com.tw/s.nl/it.A/id.872/.f)

I've checked with them and this is manufactured with 38mm pipes.  My 36hp is only mildly tuned (to recap; stock single port heads flycut for 7.5:1 compression, 33mm intake valves, dual 28PCI carbs, stock bottom end, soon to be fitted 1.4:1 ratio rockers, VJU4BR8 distributor with same curve as 019 or Resolit distributor reputedly same curve as 010).

How well suited to my setup do people this this exhaust might be; are the pipes too large for my engine?

Many thanks
Richard

Anyone able to help with this?  Thanks.

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Photographed today; now with rebuilt 28PCI carbs, 1.4:1 ratio rockers, vintage speed sebring exhaust and 205/70x15 tyres on the rear ( mounted on widened 5.5 inch stock wheels).  Needs a good clean and eventually some bodywork....


(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170121/4816e2e7a3b0aab9c81f9277a9807cc6.jpg)

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Still making minor changes and improvements and driving as much as I can.

https://youtu.be/tGjPWgpS-3M (https://youtu.be/tGjPWgpS-3M)

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I've been perfecting the stance over the past couple of weeks after fitting 145/80R15 Michelin XZX on the front (205/70R15 on the rear) . Also fitted EMPI wide5 disc brakes on the front (which despite all the criticisms of EMPI fitted without a hitch). (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190914/020170f3d85c8a69e1bcc4f1a6b53fb7.jpg)

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Richard, that thing's looking hard as all get-out! I really like the wheels, they really set the whole car off!

Thanks!   Wheels were decided by my budget but I'm really pleased with them. Stock front (4 inch) and 5.5inch rims on stock centres rear.   The trim rings help but most important the tyre choice.

They look better on the rear where I have studs.  Looking to fit studs on the front too.

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They were from Aircooled Research. Whilst they were listed as 28PCI velocity stacks, I understand that they are actually EMPI 48IDA stacks!

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Thanks! Much appreciated!