The Cal-look Lounge

It's been a long time collecting parts and saving the money (why does it always cost about 4 times as much as you think?)

Here's my spec i currently have:

- Dual Relief case cut for 90.5's will be clearanced for 82mm
- 044's cut for 90.5 unshrouded, smoothed and oval ported by myself, CCing at 55 at the minute. 40x35
- Bugpack forged 1.4's
- Bugpack HD alu push rods (bit dubious to use these)
- CB nitrided 82mm crank
- CBunitech HD plus rods end to end balanced by me.
- 2 stage dry sump pump (60/30)
- steel backed main bearings, dual thrust cam bearings and rods.

Whats still to buy:
-TP's 57g tool steel lifters
-Cam (i was thinking 86B but may sway back to the FK8 again now)
-90.5 strokers will be balanced to 0.1g

The engine is going i na beetle, and i would like it to be a strong engine, have good power across the range and pull hard on top if needed.
it will be EFI's with Megasquirt, crank fired and using GSXR TB's to cover the injection side of things.
my goal is 150bhp and daily driven with long distance capabilities.

all the friction surfaced i will be coating with DFL-1, the chambers, valve faces, piston tops and ex port will be thermal barrier coated by me.

i know the dry sump and coatings may be a bit OTT but i enjoy a challenge and doing stuff my self.

most of my time thus far has gone into the heads and the rod balancing, hopefuly getting the DFL-1 arriving this week and can start on the parts to coat.

Pics to follow :)

So first up was just checking through the rods marking with poor mans blue and fitting then stripping

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/5B107A9C-4A49-4F62-9944-85888D561E95-93-00000035A963710D.jpg)

same on the crank radi (hard to see but was fine)

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/A5BC7A8A-AB20-494D-9899-CFD3B3712D9F-93-00000035B4F59C1E.jpg)

kitchen table while the Mrs is out!

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/2DA15771-F04B-4228-8428-69B57FC8D457-93-00000001D3F4CA2F.jpg)

all marked up and idiot proof

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/1F0A1EDC-B7F8-4A6E-978E-11E341F014FE-93-00000035BB31E5CB.jpg)

sideplay checked and ready for notching and balancing

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/AF03B2BD-8063-44A5-B4F6-271161A3A5BA-93-000000A3511F4173.jpg)

This burr worked well for the notching, wether it helps or not, who knows but i thought it cant hurt

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/3A7ACFDD-DD7B-4A00-8D72-9E01C082CCD7-7131-000006E2A1401547.jpg)

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/E4F257D2-457B-4E95-815C-5578DFDAFBEC-7131-000006E29B309C5F.jpg)

Next up came the balacing, overall weight they were very close.... but i wanted better so borrowed and mod's a jig to end to end balance them.... this took hours and hours due to checking 3 times every measurement and the jig had to be perfect.

ended up with this

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/0BB96B5B-896A-4FE9-965D-3D7CB6BC4753-3630-000002A4F0C97B08.jpg)

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/E87DBE76-BC9A-45D5-99B3-E2CF3029B03B-5706-000005F0CD704A4A.jpg)

my aim was to get the big ends within 0.1g of each other, they started off 3g out on the big end, which isnt bad compared to some stocks that were way out!

Your spec is very close to what I'm running. If everything works out you'll be pleased with it. I have the 86b, almost stock gear ratios, and the car so far has run 13.60 @ 97 on radials. It will drive as far as I want to.

Looking good mate....i dont have a clue but will be watching with great interest....lol

nice thanks bud!!

stare long enough and it'll make sense..... works for me  ;D

Lol ...i will do ..where in uk?

Nice work and nice jig kan you ake some pics of it

Hi

The engine in my street car is similar:

I also run Megasquirt with coil on plug it's a MS II extra;
You will love it  ;D ;D !!!

I also have done a lot of coating on the parts : CBC2 & DFL1
So if U need some help let me know.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GYTvsVQviXU&feature=player_embedded

U will love the MS features like flatshift ;D

MeXX

Cornwall  ;)

i borrowed it from a friend. took hours to perfect and everything has to be exactly the same every time to get exact results, probably spent 6 hours fiddling and 2 actually balancing.
just like this only i swapped the disks for bearings
(http://www.eaa.org/experimenter/images/1001_howto_6.jpg)

frustrating to say the least  ;D

sweet!! i'll PM you :)

well, spent a bit time today grit blasting parts ready for DFL coating.... not a pleasant job but needs to be done! even with a full hood i have fine  grit in my hair/ears ect ::)

blasting with 100-120 grit at 40psi for the alu/soft metals and for the steel gears about 80-90 psi

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/67553B15-F24D-4AA4-9B06-DDCF29CD19D1-339-0000005515DCC572.jpg)

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/F280B28D-7E28-402C-9BDF-4134156646A7-339-000000556017DBF2.jpg)

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/20B846DD-360D-44FE-B3EF-F7B3DD388E3D-339-00000055395999FF.jpg)

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/D20B5099-BB3C-47B4-A117-5E17D3310221-339-00000055886C6335.jpg)

some parts were pre baked to remove oil and all were washed in pure  acetone after to remove any oils anf handled with gloves, they will another quick wash before coating to be sure then baked at 150 degrees for an hr ;D

with the heads i started with a set of CB 044's with 40x35 valves dual springs standard round port, i brought these lightly used locally.
 i'm no pro and if i'm honest this is the first set of VW heads.... or any heads i've ported so dont bite my head off  ;D

i went for an oval port design measuring about 39mmx32mm, i didnt want to go huge due to the small valves (ish) and displacement, still wanting good port velocity and VE.

i also unshrouded the inlets to the cylinder wall and slightly the exhausts, then smoothed them all out and will be coating with a thermal barrier coating (see a theme here ;) )

With the CB heads you need to do alot of work to the cooling passages as most are blocked, i also added a hole at the ex port area to allow flow over that....

So, Made up a template

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/0a9d9080.jpg)

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/07d3efd9.jpg)

Got to work with the burrs

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/dc26164c.jpg)

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/9029ad18.jpg)

i kinda did the ports by feel, running my fingers down to feel for symmetry and all that jazz

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/f709e275.jpg)

so after many many hours messing with burrs i switched to the sanding rolls and blended the seats to the ports, i then started on the chambers

scoring out the cylinder walls and unshrouding to there, also removing the many sharp edges CB left in the chambers

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/f2efdbee.jpg)

slowly getting there

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/4ee34a61.jpg)

comparison of shrouded and unshrouded at equal lift
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/3CA96703-20FB-417D-8A2F-E8755C87CB30-905-000000B5E7AB9C49.jpg)

and a quic port pic

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/E1CB7254-1928-4A02-8A3D-688ACF478871-905-000000AF542CA451.jpg)

ready for flycutting then coatings

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/7A239985-3741-48BE-88C2-42AF6F003D00-2352-0000021F4AA2E543.jpg)

hopefuly i've made some improvments and not just ruined them completely.... i know they wont be anywhere as good as a expert ported set but we all start somewhere! if they run utter shite i think i'll speak to JMR about a new set but hopefuly they'll do!

i'll try and dig out my blueprint sheet for the rod weights but here's the little ends

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/3727556C-1D3E-46ED-B612-6CD77BD78750-339-00000054E14B45BD.jpg)

and big ends

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/3EDE82ED-A706-45DE-9EBF-2A60033EACF5-339-0000005500F09CD5.jpg)

the big ends i got to near enough 0.1g differance, and the little ends are about 0.3g differance and i called it good! you can spend hours chasing 0.1g's here and there i found so called it good at where i was.

So my big ends started off at:
419.4g
417.8g
417.6g
416.3g

after a few hours they were
416.2g
416.3g
416.2g
416.3g

so i was happy with that!

i used the little ends to adjust total weight.(with bearings)
Total weight after that started at
600.9
602.8
600.4
599.7

after a while i got those to:

599.6
599.6
599.7
599.9


These are the final weights as i after doing the big ends, then little ends then adjusting big ends again i realised i would spend a life time getting them perfect, thus i settled for 0.3g variance on the total weights.
as i see it, the big ends are more important then the little end weight slightly... as the big ends contributes to the reciprocating weight and dynamic balance of the crank, and the little ends mearly go up and down so dont play AS bigger part. but still 0.3g is a good tollerance for a DIY job if you ask me.

just adding up how many times i adjusted the weights on the rods.... 25 adjustments(removing material) and checked each weight 3 times.....  :P

Things have been a bit slow lately!

been lapping in the valves and will leak test later (half already done) also been waiting on a spray gun to arrive so i can coat my bearings with DFL-1.

Sorely tempted to go with a 911 style shroud!! i know they arent the best, but can be made pretty good..... its purely a guilty pleasure the sexy looks!!

Keep going Andy...looking good .

Steve

Cheers mate!

i've just won a set of GSXR throttle bodies off ebay to use aswel which will be fun!

Hey Andy - Your project is looking good! I have a similar 2110 82 X 90.5. It's been a while since my engine was built but I think the skirts of my pistons had to be notched to clear the connecting rods. Did you have to do this mod to your pistons? I used Porsche length Carrillo H beam rods and Mahle / Cima 90.5 B pistons and cylinders (Berg specials). Just asking so that if you need to do this you don't balance your pistons and then find that they have to be clearanced for your connecting rods. Then you'd have to balance your pistons again.
Jeff

i havnt brought them yet but thanks for the heads up other wise i would have balanced them without trial fitting  :P


my ITB's arrived, i took out the upper butterfly and split them in into two pairs.... pics to follow.

Also my spray gun arrived so i can start coating my part today!

Stay with the B cam over the FK8. You wohnt regret it. Scout´s honour.

T

Scouts honour!?!?! Well ok then ;)

Cheers

does anyone know port size VS valve size? ie port cc?

anyway....

ITB's..... GSXR 600 from 2006.

Here is the plan:

the '06 600 using a pump in tank design with built in reg..... meaning no return line. so i plan to go this route too, fit the pump into the tank and have one line coming out.....ideal! clean and tidy too. What i'll use for fuel line i dont know yet....

i'll chop the original fuel rail in half i think and then put fittings into the cut ends.

they come with two injectors each and two butterflies each.... i removed the top butterflies which are fly by wire, and the top injectors didnt come with my ebay buy anyways. i need to plug the holes with JB weld (seems standard to do and use)

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/1D542476-0F55-40C1-A420-68B6493FDAC1-8417-000006444D6D5ED0.jpg)

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/7F2ABDBA-0C93-4FB2-82EF-F9C8A4E12975-8417-0000064453E98FFF.jpg)

each one has its own little vac port, wether i use this for vac yet i dont know.... might work for an idle control valve?
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/2ED7C40C-E18F-4C94-B160-FD0ADF92AABC-8417-000006445A671533.jpg)

and each has there own bypass screw
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/B4B50B99-F7A6-4CF5-927F-49C9D8CBEEAB-8417-000006447153D740.jpg)

they taper from about 46ID to 40ID
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/258140A0-D197-4C61-A5BB-515F5DBCA25E-8417-000006448BD3372D.jpg)

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/235CDAAF-6C90-4CD6-9001-4B1C4B4DE83D-8417-0000064492EEBCDB.jpg)

mounting them and working out how i'll open them is a whole other ball game!

wondering if i should plonk it all in a wbx case and convert to oxy boxer....

yeah...i d like to go that route too some time,
but a bit too expensive for my wallet :)
in the past i dreamed of hillborn TB's for the old look
good luck with your project!

cheers bud, i can get a long block for £49.... then cut the jackets off my self.... have friends re position the studs.... decide on what i'll do lifters wise...

am i missing anything else? i know bearings are a bit tricky, and you need spacers to fit T1 barrels ect....

hoping it wont be too bad price wise, or am i mistaken? as i do hear they are costly to do! i dont have much budget thus doing most my self....

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/17B9E387-BFC5-4A7B-8030-0A437BD388C3-10690-000008114322E538.jpg)

the reason this is sat outside.......... i'm about to fire abrasive grit at a rather expensive piece........ pants? brown.


it went ok, currently pre baking it at 170 degrees to drive out any oil left in there after the acetone bath.  :P

i hadnt thought about it as i didnt think it would fit in my little oven i brought for this task..... but it does  8)

blasted, acetoned, and blasted with the air line.....

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/B29AF65C-D67F-4949-87D0-D3568AE93498-11487-0000088F0A7DEFD4.jpg)

then acetoned again, warmed, sprayed, baked

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/2BC056C5-BE39-4E23-9938-FADADC3FADBD-11487-0000088F13021C9E.jpg)

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/E48E24A3-71FD-48D3-A345-361C39790450-11487-0000088F1A760AA3.jpg)

will burnish with scotbrite and oil it up...... pleased with how it came out!

Did some more coatings, hopefully get barrels and pistons soon then I'm just cam and lifters away from a long block!


(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/ECE29AF3-A56E-4A12-9BA4-9BF93E73264A-2919-0000026C57B13DC5.jpg)

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/71AEB156-CAF6-48DA-8BB2-F4D2CE53E7CA-2919-0000026C4FCC7469.jpg)

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/E1C57E8C-B918-49D5-B5EF-819B3B0059A3-2919-0000026C48FCCD52.jpg)

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/B06535C5-8514-4724-A648-FDC8D22F87BC-2919-0000026C36429A29.jpg)

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/andy198712/F920BCEE-CE29-4264-8637-34AD0FD4DEAA-2919-0000026C2F4155B3.jpg)

You can easily see in some areas where I didn't key the surface and it bubbled, keying properly is vital for this stuff it seems! ( the bubbled over spray will be removed before fitting)

Andy, you should check out Adele and Steves race car build here: http://cal-look.no/lounge/index.php/topic,3041.msg185202.html#msg185202
Marco Mansi did the throttle body conversion, and very nice it is too!

Different throttle bodies sadly :( same bike but differ at year I think? Mine split into pairs Where as those go into singles, I was looking at marco's site recently though as he does oxy's too.... Nice to see he's on megasquirt aswell! Might have to pick his brains!

I'm thinking ill make some manifolds for my throttle bodies.... It sounds easy in my head...... Oh dear!

I'd try to make some manifold adaptors rather than complete manifolds. How close is the bore spacing compared to an IDF or IDA?

I think this cnc-piece is really nice and I would think about it seriously if I was going EFI. It's one Finnish guy who design and manufacture cnc pieces for hobby. -Alex- is also cruising here at Lounge.

[attachment=1]


-Mikko-

true, they look nice! i could cut the tops of some IDF manis and weld those one....

here's the spacing

(http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcS-nMqc204N3kjpqE-QJCq4ruXm9Hesj1d1MJfPpackzHpPiVvqtvQFqsP3DA)

either a transition plate or just or base plate cut and welded.....

tempted to either cut the manifolds down till the centers match and then either join with silicone hose or weld....

or buy some 10mm ish alu plate, bore out the holes for the TBI's and cut the manifolds to the length where the centers meet, then weld on said plate and can use the OEM gsxr boots to mount the TBI's to said plate.... that might be best....

so bit of an update. a friend of mine is boring the cases at his machine shop he works at, this is his first set and plans to do it as a service once its all setup so i'm getting a good deal.
after measuring a few cases he decided to center the cases off the bearings journals.
He's now going to locate the case halves using the crank journals rather than the case centreline after measuring a few cases it seems all the crank bores are off centre and some are not even parallel.

so he will then deck the cases also so my cylinder will sit perfectly square.... should help reduce frictional losses and last a little longer... may not but hey ho  :P

i'll also be coating my barrels with a special lubricant that is buffed in and aids in reducing friction and faster ring seal, sounds like quick seat with a friction inhibitor in it...

i'm toying with coating the engine with a thermal dispersant, barrels and heads, but i'm almost worried it will run TOO cool and take too long to warm up....

lots to think about and play with! will try and setup rocker side play later and see how i get on!

Cheers :)

Thats how mine is done, levelled on the mains using a precision ground bar to replicate the crank.

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y144/t3ben/Image0039.jpg)
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y144/t3ben/engine%20rebuild/Image0063.jpg)

nicely done! 8)

having a mare of a time geting my bugpack 1.4 ratio rockers to work.... they seem to be machined poorly thus giving tight spots through the travel of the rocker...  :-\