The Cal-look Lounge

Passed through an interesting blog build at -on all cylinders-. Looks to be a Summit sponsored site if I got it right. Never the less, these guys put together a Chevy V8 out of off the shelve parts available from Summit mega store shelves. Some port work was carried out on cylinder heads but really nothing too magical I believe. Results are, should I say impressive even if some "advertisement" figures were used. Also if you add the parts on the shopping cart, the hp/spent buck ain't too shabby either? With the same liter/hp ratio vw builder should expect around 255hp out of an 2332cc engine. I've read a few articles in HotVW's some time ago where they built a post order engine but it did not really reach this height in results. A guess what I'm trying to say it would be interesting to see what results would one get from parts readily available for VW scene, in one web store of course...

http://www.onallcylinders.com/2012/10/19/top-class-565-part-3-finishing-touches-and-dyno-results/ (http://www.onallcylinders.com/2012/10/19/top-class-565-part-3-finishing-touches-and-dyno-results/)

I dont get your question.

100+ hp per liter VW engines have been available for a long time. With off the shelf parts we are close to 100 hp per liter:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=WJK5zlbvGtA

-BB-

A guess there was not really any question involved, merely an observation...  ;)

It might make the numbers built straight off the shelf, but how long will it last??

I mean, all engine builders have their tweeks they like to make to cases, cranks etc for better oiling, cooling and longevity.

And how much did it cost?

That's a big point, all the parts you buy only has BIG HP potential...  They will not deliver it unless it's all combined, fitted and tweeaked right.
Or as with turbo engines, they all deliver big hp on the dyno, but unless it's built right it wont show it on the track...

It always pays of to use a experienced engine designer/builder.

Thats an interesting read,I feel there is some manipulating of the facts there,it sounds simple but in reality these 2 quotes stick out loudly to me


The engine was configured and built by the cylinder head experts at Trick Flow Specialties, and uses readily available parts and requires minimal machine work.

and


We last left the 565 with the installation of the Trick Flow PowerPort® 360 cylinder heads, which had been massaged by Summit Racing/KB Racing Pro Stock driver (and diehard engine guy) Jason Line. We also bolted on the Trick Flow R-Series intake manifold for photo purposes; it was removed for a trip to the porting and polishing room for some airflow enhancements. We’ll be showing you those here

thats not a "off the shelf" company, and as I am sure you are aware Jason line is one of the quickest Pro stock drivers of all time,and spends months of each year building and dynoing his engines,they have a budget of over $100,000 each year for valve springs alone!!!! :o

It is a wonderfull piece of journalism though ;)  All that money invested and they couldnt get/afford another jug of Q16 when they "ran out"


cheers richie

I was sitting here reading this post and chuckling to myself , with the people who were involved in this build I do not see them slapping an engine together with purely off the shelf parts. It would kind of be like saying Don Pauter just slapped one of his big block engines together with off the wall parts he had just lying around and Fumio just happened to stop by and barely clean off the ports in the heads. I think the article was a tongue in cheek build.  Mike McCarthy

Jon while i agree that it pays in the long term to get the most experienced engine builder/designer you can afford as they did in this article,that does not mean you cannot buy off the shelf parts and make them work and live,what most people seem to do is have some unrealistic idea of what they want to achieve.
If you went to a reputable engine builder in say sweden and asked him to spec an engine for you,then bought all the parts from him and did exactly as he instructed you,then you should have an engine that does exactly that,if you buy a "200hp engine" of an internet advert from someone that never actually achieved anything then the chances are it wont do what its supposed too >:(



Now as to turbo engines not performing,well the facts are its easier to make good hp with a turbo engine,we know that :)  and for most on a reasonably limited budget its a great way to get good hp,you only have to look a Nikalus with his 1641 engines to see what you can achieve,can anyone or everyone do that? No,he has developed his car and engine,can someone go to him and buy that same set up,proberly.So you think that is not impressive? it made good numbers on the dyno and good numbers at the track :)

hell if someone wanted to go 9.23 in a cabrio with no wheelie bars ;D i could supply the exact same combo to get it done,so if a magazine wanted to do an article on "how easy it is to go 9.23 in a cabrio beetle"  they could write it in such a way that it sounds like anyone could do it,but who would actually want to drive it? and then even if everything else is 100% correct you stilll need a track and driver good enough[insert stupid enough if you want :D ;D ] to actually do it.
The problem is most dont realise how much effort it takes to get from dyno to ET,we had weeks were we tested at irwindale on a thursday,found a problem/broke something/wanted to try something different and stripped the engine,fixed or made changes and were back the next thursday at the track racing/testing again,we just dont get the luxury of that much track time in europe.
The amount of times I hear & see internet experts say "that wont work" or "you have to use that part or that person to go fast" and know from my own experiences its absolute b$llox you wouldnt believe,theres a saying that if you post it or repeat it enough it must be true ;)   Parrots never achieved anything,well except Billy gliddens but thats another story.
    "add another kit,add another kit,add another kit"  :o ;D

Where would all the engine builders come from in the future who will take our hobby further if everyone just goes to the top builders and never try anything themselves? we can even learn things from the V8 engine builds similar to the original posters quote,I read books and magazines that cover a wide range of different platforms to try to gain more knowledge to help me move forward,I know you do the same :)

Kettle has boiled so off to make tea,will think some more as this is an interesting topic for sure,and proberly quite contraversial if we are all honest about it :o



cheers richie

That's all I can say.

MeXX

You are kicking in open doors Richie, my point was exactly that... Its fine with BIG HP, but it have to work too.

Hmmm, tempting topic.

/J

Come on in then,you are already here ;D   You have as much experience as anyone on this,you have a dyno and must have seen plenty of times when what the dyno told you didnt actually relate to the performance of the car?

You have been quiet  for a while now :)

cheers richie

Maybe I didn't understand what your point was then?  but how does someone become experienced by just going to someone else and handing over there money? we seem to agree its more than just the dynoed engine that you need, the engine builder or dyno operator wont get the car down the track,or across a continent without braking down if thats your goal,its much more than that,we all need to learn ourselves what it takes to accomplish something.

cheers richie

i was suprised by a bit of portwork on my  "cnc ported "comp eliminator heads made 22%increase in flow  :o

I'm not suprised.

 :D :D :D :D

In my opinion it is much better to use more towards off the shelf parts and achieve 80% of an engine´s potential in order to get your behind out on the track for some fun and seat time. The engine can always be upgraded/improved etc...
No need spending 3 times as much time and money and see little or no racing...

Seems it's hard to get the point i'm trying to make.
Back in the day when I went to regular drag racing you would alway see cars with 500 turbo horses... And they never worked.
The power was not usable... It's hard to get turbo horses to result in lower ET's ...

That can be fixed with experience...  or turning to someone who can lead you in the right direction... regarding both engine design and cluch/ chassis setup.

There are no quick ways to get the car to take full advantage of the engine, not even turbo.

In my humble opinion.

A quote from BUSGODS;
I've read a few articles in HotVW's some time ago where they built a post order engine but it did not really reach this height in results. A guess what I'm trying to say it would be interesting to see what results would one get from parts readily available for VW scene, in one web store of course...

        This is just an example, I know there are alot of people who have more hp and better performance. I purchased all my major componants from Dave and Judy Kawell . They picked all the engine componants , built the heads, headers and intake system ,prepped all the parts and I assembled them. I wanted a combination that would do everything that I hoped for and would last more than a few passes, they exceeded all my goals.  This is a true "street " engine , something that can be driven every day in my new car . When dynoed it produced 366 rwhp on C16 fuel and boost . The last race it ran 6.37 at Farmington fall race in Pro Outlaw class in my race car. I am sure everyone is sick of seeing the vid but this is the engine running at the races, mine is the red car.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FJZrEFElU24                   Richie I absolutely respect your attitude and your abilities but the sad fact is that many people do not have the resources to try alot of differant combinations and replace alot of broken parts in order to educate ourselves in what works and doesn't .  How much money do you think you have spent in the last ten years on VW's ?  I am afraid to add mine up for the last 28 years.


In my opinion it is much better to use more towards off the shelf parts and achieve 80% of an engine´s potential in order to get your behind out on the track for some fun and seat time. The engine can always be upgraded/improved etc...
No need spending 3 times as much time and money and see little or no racing...
          JHU I completely agree.      Mike McCarthy

Mike

not enough ;D  whatever amount it is i could always spend more ;D

One of the reasons i have broken so much is that i try to use parts that others consider to cheap or not good enough,I always had a very small budget with the old cabrio,repairing and re using stuff that others would have thrown in the trash, no one would believe the junk that was in the engine when it went low 9s,now if I got payed a pound/dollar for every hour I spent working on it i would be a rich man ;) Its what I enjoy doing though,and I learnt alot along the way :) I was lucky to have both the time and a track available to test some of my stupid ideas

There are some people in the industry that you cant go wrong using and I believe the Dave & Judy are right up there with the best,I have no personal experience with them but they did alot of good stuff for sure.



Jon, I see what you are saying and although this has gone a little off topic now,but wasn't the question can something similar be done with parts from a VW supplier to that they did in the article,and I believe it can

now would you be able to get the performance at the track to go with it?,thats another topic all together


Trond you are quite correct 80% is plenty for most and seat time can make up for the other 20% :)


cheers Richie

 My motto for racing was         I have done so much with so little for so long that now I can do anything with nothing.         Cheers to you too Richie,  Mike McCarthy

My son bought an off the shelf kit for his 67 build from CB Performance after talking to Pat Downs and I assembled it for my son, the add says it will make 200 HP on pump gas, well it ended up making 215HP and runs great. Here are the list of parts to make an easy 200 Hp.
1186 - 200 HP 2332cc Builders Choice Engine Kit includes:

2289 - Cam Only T-1
1274 - AS41 Dual Relief Super Case - T-1 & 2, 84 x 94, Full Flowed
2665 - Super Race Rods (Chevy Journal) 5.5" length (set of 4)
1859 - Maxi 30 Full Flow Oil Pump
1278 - CB High Performance Case Kit
1537 - 28mm Ultralight Lifters (set of 8)
1941 - Rear Main Seal - 13, 15, & 1600cc
1804 - Main Bearings STD
2672 - Clevite Chevy Rod Bearings
1399 - Straight Cut Cam Gears
1565 - Racing Push Rod Tubes (set of 8)
1423 - 044 Super Pro Cylinder Heads (44x37.5) 94bore
1493ug - VW650 Valve Spring Upgrade
1706 - 4 Quart Ultra Wide Glide Sump
1618 - Chromoly Push Rods - blank end (.058")
1037 - 94mm Wiseco Forged Piston Set
1038 - 94mm Mahle Cylinders
1702D - C Channel Valve Covers (set of 2)
1424 - Main Bearing Dowell Pins (set of 5)
1999 - 8mm Deflector Plates - fits 13, 15, & 1600cc (set of 2)
1904 - Case Washer Set
1255 - Rubber-Coated Cam End Plug
2673 - Super Race Crank - 84mm Stroke - Chevy Journals
1390 - 94mm 0.060' thick - Copperhead Gaskets (set of 4)
1303 - Forged Chromoly Lightweight Flywheel - 200mm (o-ring seal)
1360 - Racing Gland Nut with Washer
1229 - 8mm Chromoly Head Stud Kit - Dual Port
1849 - Racing Camshaft Bearing Set
1918 - Crankshaft Gear Assembly Kit w/Racer Spacer NO CRANK GEAR
1577 - Forged 1.4:1 Rocker Arms w/.060 Rocker Shims
1362 - End Play Shim Kit
1908 - Case Lock Nut Kit
1973 - Gasket Set - 13, 15, & 1600cc Dual & Single Port Engines
1094 - 94mm x .145" Steel Barrel Spacers
LABOR-CC-CS - CC Heads to 52cc
LABOR-FLOW - Full Flow Case

HP rating is based on Dual 48mm IDA Carbs, 1 3/4" Merged Exhaust (#3597), match ported big beef manifolds, compression is set at 10.5:1 using listed parts in kit. Premium fuel is required for this kit.

Maybe we should separate the topic how much horsepower and how to make it with off shelf parts or not and making good ET?
They both deserve attention but are pretty much apart.
Horespower is so often debated but how often do we share what skills it takes to do the rest.
Car setup and choice?
Understand what a clutch should do?
Then as a absolutely very separate and key topic, how shoudl I behave when on the line. This is probably where a lot of people lose much ET. Or even fail totally.

I am not tired of watching your video Mike, so I did it again. Seen it several times before.
My reflection was linked to how you perfrom with 366 hp. A  6.37. Very good!

You have a good car with a good setup and that is so much more involved than just HP.
Then you do a simple clean Burnout. No overrev, no pumping, no funny stuff.
You stage short and clean. No hesitation on knowing what you are up to.
At a good and right moment you raise the rpm and keep it there because this is what you set it at and decided to start on. (maybe you have a llimiter or just know how to drive without it)
Then you have a completely clean run.
As usual with any sport, it looks so simple when it is "clean".

        Mike McCarthy
[/quote]

Mike, you have a RLR Rev 6, so you do not do much of burnout and just clean of the tires? Correct?

Dom , perfect example of what can be done.  Frallen, Thank you for all that.  I do leave on a 2 step set at 5600 rpm's  and yes I do run a REV6 with NO burnout.  Mike McCarthy

I have to admit that scares the hell out of me,its all good and well that the car launches well with no burnout using that clutch,in the 1/8 mile its proberly ok,but what a big hp car is going to do down the track with cold tyres just seems so dangerous ?

cheers Richie

Richie the only time I ever had any problems on the top end in this car was in that video . The night before they had a NITROS shoot out race  ( american v8's) and alot of engine explosions. They worked on the track all night long , I was a spectator. The next day was our race and the sun heated the track , oil came to the surface on the top end. If you watch really close you can see my tires smoke just when I made  the shift to 4th . The next race was at Farmington and with no changes it was perfect handling. Like you said if I was running 1/4 I might have problems that I  haven't had running the 1/8th . Mike McCarthy

For a moment I thought I would apologize for the poorly picked headline for this post but the further I read the conversation I changed my mind!  :D Fantastic points by all and a good point about the quality of workmanship used on the V8 build. It would be interesting to hear what the price tag for that consultation was.  ;) And some of that was paid by the summit stuff I've bought over the years...   :D

It's great to hear Dominic that you've had some good results with the CB's builders choice kit. I've wandered if anyone's double backed the results. Did you tweak the kit in any way? There's only one thing that bugs me about these kits. They say it's "taking away all the guess work". But hey, that's the best part!!!  ;D

And of course Jason line is sponsored by summit so wouldnt really want to bash there products ;)

cheers richie

The only difference is I used the aluminum high deck case. It is a little monster and a great combo!

One of those kits was professionally build by a shop over here and dyno'd on 48mm TB's and CB's EFI system and made an astonishing 223hp (flywheel calculated from wheel-hp) with fan and muffler, no air filters. Thats extremely good as its a bit of a heart breaker dyno and we have many references on air cooled engines on this rolling road. I was honestly surprised.

It was Dynoed by Jack at JayCee and made 215 @6800 RPM and was still pulling, it could have gone to 7200 very easy but I thought that was enough power for my kid to start out with. It was picking up 10hp per every 500 RPM, do the math.

I see the CB engine kit comes with a 2673 crank which is 84mm stroke, type1 mains, chevy rods. What sort of use will this withstand. I thought the general consensus was it was not suitable for high hp use as it is more likely to flex.  Than say a 82mm crank. Though 200hp is high hp for a street car.

I ask as I bought a 2673 crank to build a 2332 for strip and street use but have put it to one side, due to reading that if you want to use an 84mm crank it should have type 4 mains.

So should I get back to building the 2332 engine.

 :)

 I would build the heck out of the 2332.  If I was going turbo I might hesitate but N/A wouldn't worry me at all.  We ran a 2332 for years in John Toomeys car with type 1 mains . I hope it is wedgemated ?   Mike McCarthy

That's interesting to hear, looks like the 2332 is back on.   ;D

Is wedgemating necessary, it might be difficult to get it done in the UK, I am not aware of anyone that can do it.

Thanks, it looked like I had killed this thread, for a while  :)

 In your post you said you were going to race it , I would definately have it done . I am sure someone does it there. Mike McCarthy

You're right, I forgot i said I had bought it for strip use, I'll look into wedgemating.

I would not wedgemate it. Search on this forum and you will find info and even some calculations. Make sure you have friction, use a big washer, use enough torque and a well matched clutch combination for your car and use. I´m at 311 whp and 370 nm, racing with DOT slicks, no wedgemate - no problem.

Flex and 84-86 chevy journal crank.. interesting. It is a combination that have been used for years and in high rev engines. Putting any big stroke crank in a original case is basically not a good idea but it works and it is just a engine. Do it. If worried I would look into a better case.

Just my 2 cents..

-BB-
 

Got similar tips from buddies (with more engine building experience) about wedge mating as BB suggests. It's pretty difficult to get it done right. It seems that one big problem with 8 dowel off the shelve cranks with flywheels is the fit. The load quite often is not divided even on to all 8 dowels. I had my crank machined for oversize dowels together with the german flywheel and it surely is now a tight snug fit. Not sure if this is done by others but seems to be a common practice here in Helsinki with aftermarket cranks. My power aspirations for build related to that crank are nowhere near 300 horses so I'm quite confident that it will hold as long as I do the assembly proprerly.

3 cents? :D

 I hope I do not sound like I am being argumentative but every engine is differant and so is each stroke.  If you have a 1641 turbo engine with 311 rwhp as an example your torque is going to be totally differant than say a 2387 with the same hp. I will use my engine as an example , 2387 turbo with a Kawell cam that is similar to an FK10 makes dynoed 366 rwhp , made 350 hp at 3700 rpm's and carried it over 7000. The torque is like a diesel and pulls like a freight train . This is a street engine that I raced in Pro Outlaw here , one that is going into my street car. This engine would have torn the dowels out the first pass I made. I destroyed a stroker crank ( SCAT ) and flywheel back in the 80's because I did not wedgemate it , that is why I highly suggest wedgemating anything that will be drag raced and has a stroke of more tha 76 mm. If anyone ever needs wedgemating done and cannot get it done locally I highly suggest Keiths Auto Parts here in the US on the East coast.  http://www.keithsautoparts.com/        They are reasonably priced ( 150.00 usd for wedgemate) and work quality is excellent, again I have used them since the 80's. Getting a clutch set up perfectly so that it will slip on take off yet hold the rest of the way down the track takes alot of T&Tune time and will cost you parts. Even with CM if your car 60 fts well it is alot of strain on those dowel pins. Again I only suggest it because I do not want anyone to make the same mistakes I made. Mike McCarthy

A little off topic but what heads are you using on your motor Mike?

Sorry about getting off topic ,  CB 044 castings that Dave Kawell gave some love to and again this is a street engine. I was really impressed how well they work.  Mike McCarthy

So, I have finally had the time to finish the car and travel to JPM for a dyno test.

Specifications:
VW mag case
82mm crank
VW flywheel
Carillo 912 length rods
JP pistons
Mahle 94mm cylinders
JPM Raptor cam and lifters
JPM MS250 heads
Manley SS 46x38mm
K-800 valve springs
JPM 5-stud rockers
JPM alu pushrods
Italian 51,4mm IDA´s by JPM
JPM Raptor venturies.
Super flo round port manifolds
Stepped header, 1 5/8" - 1 3/4" - 2"
12,5:1 CR
Joe Hunt magneto
Modified oil system. Blocked oil cooler, thermostat removed.
26mm Schadek oil pump
CB Atomic cooler
External oil filter.
Statoil 98 octane pump gas.

Dynoed 265,7hp(DIN)@6970rpm, 290,9nm@5760rpm. Stinger, no belt.

Seems to work fine on the street, but have not had the time to take long drives.

No modifications to parts except simple stuff like minimal match porting and shuffle pinned manifolds.
The only "sore spot" for me was that we had to change the Oteva valve springs for K-800´s due to valve float at 6950rpm. This is because the custom valves on the heads are longer and thereby heavier than normal T1 and T4(MS230) valves.
Titanium inlet valves are ordered from Manley, will put them in together with the Oteva´s after SCC.

So there - off the shelf engine building. 116hp per litre.

^^^^ Whoooo  :o

Wow! 8)

Sweet numbers JS!!
Coming to Tierp?
/Herman

Of course Herman! Leaving tomorrow!  ;D

Nice numbers  ;)

How much spring preasure did you set youre k-800 build in and max ?

Thanks John

Great results, you've got to be pleased  ;D

Can I ask what pushrod tubes you used ?
I recall reading that some tubes rub against  jpm pushrods due to their large dia.

Thanks
Darren

Hi Darren.

They do rub, at least on my very narrow engine. However it is minimal, you can see it in the anodizing but not feel it with your finger.

Congrats!!
Really impressive :)

Congrats on the results,
All parts are "off" one shelf or another  ;) the difference is the combination and attention paid to preparing the parts by the engine builder.

Excellent news Jonny, look forward to seeing how those dyno numbers add up to track performance, no pressure on you :o :D  See you later?

cheers Richie

How much money is in such an off the shelf engine?

It's certainly an impressive engine built by one of the best with some of the best off the shelf parts available.
I would be guessing if I said €60 per HP

Hi Jonny,

Great numbers, hope you have some fun at the weekend chasing down the big guns in your street car!

So this is where we are at now with this silly old 2 valve per cylinder flat rapper pushrod engine 113 bhp/litre with good quality off the shelf parts.

Bloody impressive Jonny that is what I call progress!

Enjoy!
 
Peter

Guessing Johnny (JS) is one happy camper today. First time on the track with the newly built engine, 10.99@194 km/h.  ;D
That's seriously fast for a streetable beetle with a N/A engine! Congratulations!

10's!

Fantastic Jonny very well done!

That is going to be a serious weapon on the street!

Peter

Just thinking about that 10. You and your car have just joined what must be a fairly short worldwide list of people and cars that have done that with a n/a a/c street legal beetle. Even if you forget all the what is a street car and include them all!

I like it that you have done it with a mag and some ida's too, nice plain and simple combination.

Good luck today.

Peter

10 's  :o Again..  :o :o congrats

Seen the list of your engineparts, the only ''strange part'' for me is you are useing very short rods, not very common in type 1 engines  ;).

Wow, thats a great time not only for a streeter and as Peter said, KISS principal works wonders.

I am assuming the side load created by the short rods is not all that apparent when using light pistons with low compression height but aiding in a snappy engine and low RPM torque with the MS250 and JPM cam providing the HP in the upper RPM, a bit of old school thinking with new school tech.

I also love the idea of a stepped header, we have just finished the mock up of a stepped header for Type 4 based on an old F1 design purely started by the lack of room between the pushrod tubes.

That is not 'short'....especially with only 82 stroke.

10.88 today! :o way to go Johnny!

Same as a Chev 383 stroker, but yes, it's still a short ratio for ACVW.
Was any rod/piston clearancing needed? Isn't that where the limitation is on an ACVW for short rods? I've had to increase my planned rod length in my combo to avoid clearancing here, but I'm using a very small bore.

Parts make an engine, assembly care makes power, but WOW! 10s is TOUGH!  :o
REALLY tough.  8)

Porsche length is 136mm which is only 1mm shorter than VW.
I have used that length successfully up to 86 with clearing,
but at 82mm should be a 'bolt-in'.

The side piston load increase is so small it is not an issue.
(do a tan-1 on the numbers to see wow little the angle changes!)

'383' has a 3.75 stroke with 5.7'' or even the original 400 Chevy rods at 5.565",
and that is a WHOLE lot more radical.

My first ever billet crank was 90mm with a 5.5" Carrillo.
It needed a lot of piston clearing at BDC, and performed very well, even at high rpm!
It had no indication of excessive bore wear,
but once I opened up the theory books, I changed to a 5.6, and then eventually to a 5.7".
The 5.7" was a nice fit at BDC.

I don't get much into rod ratio, except for the calculation of acceleration
to determine what level of strength I need in the rod and rod bolts.

It is a lot more easy for us VW folk to choose based on what fits the easiest,
and that just happens to fit within accepted industry standards of acceptable RR limits.

He managed 10.88@199.34 KMH best yesterday and ran a bunch of 10s on a seriously hot day, and is a happy man for sure 8) With some better air next weekend at SCC he should see some more improvement ;D

cheers Richie

So wow, first race weekend with a "new" car and a 10 on the 4th run. Unexpected to say the least!!
The limit now seems to be suspension, I will send the Spax´s to England after SCC to have them re-valved, as the 60 foot went down when I tried anything but the hardest setting.
We will also play a little with Richie´s scales at SCC and see if we can fine tune the suspension a little.

John - The springs were installed at 185-195. Max was "out of range".  ::)

mymedusa - If you start with nothing and have JPM build it (I did not), estimate around $20k.

Pete - THANKS!  ;D

I would have built it with longer rods, but saved on using the Porsche journal Carillo´s I had in the engine before.
There is more to be had, the header used was not in firing order, the firing order one produces 5hp more from 3-8000rpm.
Unfortunately it hit the traction bar, so I will modify the car for it this winter. Also the Ti valves and lighter springs will produce more hp.

Thanks Richie, Stian, Hermann, DBR, Finnish delegation, Rune and everybody for a great weekend!

I know they used Porsche rods to get rid off the clearance problems back in the old days. (also for their weight ;))
That was what I was thinking nowdays the more common rods in type 1 are the 5.6 and 5.7, so that was why was a bit supriced with 'short' rod.

Cool js, you just had them already  :D.
I thought maybe with a special JPM cam (with lots of duration) you want to make a very torque engine.

Cool combination and Respect for the 10 s ypu have run.
Maybe you can post some pictures.

Regards Edgar

I don´t have the cam card here, but from memory it´s 109 lobe separation, 15,1mm lift, 275 degrees @0,05 lift.

Gratulation for the numbers! And thank you for sharing!
Sounds all so amazing so should be alot of fun. Keep on going!

Chris

Congratulations JS

 If you dont mind me asking what sort of weight is your bug

Regards Ron

Thanks a lot Ron! About 1690lbs/765kg. The car itself is about 45lbs/20kg lighter than stock.

That's makes your runs even more impressive. Can't wait to see your numbers this weekend, I take it you're racing this weekend as well ?

I will try.  :D

Those are nice numbers, congrats - i know what you need to make a 10 with a car like that . But if you get the 60 feet down your gearbox will break - i think

Udo