The Cal-look Lounge

With the closing of the US based CLF, our build thread for our turbo project disappeared as well. Since we like to share our trials and tribulations, our disappointments and out triumphs, I've "kompressed" the entire build at the link below
http://home.comcast.net/~mlawless29/turbo.html (http://home.comcast.net/~mlawless29/turbo.html)

One of the final hurdles was accomplished over the weekend, and that was dealing with the clutch. I was trying to save time and money since I was way over budget on the rest of the build. I had been running a "J&G" style clutch for the last several years. The "Light" hat was just enough clutch for the normally aspirated set-up we had. It seemed to be a simple matter to switch to the heavy hat. Component flex and an improper initial set-up caused it to not release, and it took many hours of trial and error to finally get it working. I ended up with a hydraulic release bearing that fits inside the bellhousing. At least it fits now! Making it all fit and work was no easy task. But with help from my son Mark, we got working. It took the entire weekend, and we had the motor in and out it seems a dozen times.

Our completion target is the Bakersfield March Meet. In truth, a Test n Tune event a couple weeks before. With a few loose ends to wrap up, it looks promising. But then, I haven't even tried to fire it yet!

(http://home.comcast.net/~mlawless29/TurboFinis.jpg)

Mike, it is really amazing how you've evolved this machine over the years!

Thanks for posting Mike. I have followed the build on the Ultimate forum and I wish you good luck with the first start and the coming race weekend.

Best rgs
BB

Gday Mike.
Thanks very much for the link to your build-up. I'm glad you enjoy sharing it with others, because I enjoy reading all about it! I will get into it tonight.  :)
I'm especially looking forward to reading about the methanol parts and basic tune for stacks, that's becoming a lost art almost nowadays.
Thanks again for sharing.

Thanks guys
Modnrod, I had sold my entire Hilborn NA stack injection to Martin "Boom Boom" for his NSU project, and it is set up to run methanol. We've been running it for five years on the Blue Car, and I'll tell you, I'll never go back to gasoline. I think it's only uncertainty that keeps others from using it. If there is one thing that convinced me, it was our 2009 win at the Bakersfield March Meet. Seven rounds of racing, with the last four rounds only minutes apart. Barely enough time to even put fuel in the car. No time to cool it down. Had we been on gasoline, I would have had to withdraw, or burn the motor down.

So, there was no consideration of using anything other than methanol and mechanical injection for our turbo combination. I probably could have gotten by with a less complex system, but by doing it the way we did, there's room to grow without having to redo the entire fuel system.

I'm very happy to be a part of this community. The big attraction this message board has is that the members, particularly those outside the US, exhibit "Outside the Box" approaches to problem solving. Very refreshing.

Hi Mike

good to see you adding the build here,particularly now the CLF has gone,one thing I have been wondering about is the need for the extra fuel tank at the back,did you need to do this to aid starting? or did it loose fuel pressure on a pass?
I have only a front mounted tank and a mechanical pump on the newer cabrio and havent had any issues as long as I put enough fuel in the tank ::)

I have been reading a book on methanol tuning by Bob Szabo and there is alot of info on mechanical injection in there,and he covers fuel cell location etc and states that a rear engined car with a front mounted tank shouldn't have any issues getting fuel to the engine as the fuel is naturally forced toward the engine on a pass, my concern was maybe you had another problem[fuel line to small,to many turns in fuel line etc,restrictive fliter] and it would show itself again now the demand on the fuel system will be greater and have the potential to damage the engine.

Maybe I am a million miles off,wouldnt be the 1st time :o :D   but spent alot of time on the road recently with nothing to occupy my mind,we all know how dangerous that can be ;D

cheers Richie

Richie, you are right on target.

When I first set the mechanical system up, I looked at front engine dragsters. Most of those had a fuel cell mounted far forward of the engine. So, I figured I could get away with having my cell up front. I mounted it as high as possible, so it would be above the fuel pump and I used a 5/8" line back to the pump. Unfortunately, I had forgotten the rules of fluid dynamics that I learned years ago when I worked with industrial hydraulic systems. I was getting pump cavitation in the top half of the run, and the car would "nose over" and lean out. Fortunately, I knew form experience what was happening, and always aborted the run, limiting damage to burnt spark plugs only.

I believe that it was due to the number of 90° fittings it took to get that fuel line snaked through a stock bodied car. Had the line been bigger with fewer bends, I'm certain it would have worked. Also a contributing factor that you won't see with a regulated return as in an EFI system, is that with mechanical injection, the feed line has to keep up with the total output capacity of the pump. The pump will output at full capacity at all times.

Having the pump mounted above the motor was also a potential factor. I've seen several VWs with a fuel pump driven off the end of the oil pump run without issues from a front mounted fuel cell.

Anyway, I have a one gallon "holding cell" above the transaxle that the pump draws from. The feed line was only a few inches long. Fuel from the front cell is pumped to it by an electric fuel pump and with a return line in place, once full, it simply returns back to the front cell. It's worked flawlessly for several years. The one gallon cell is big enough to run an entire pass should the electric circulation pump not keep up for any reason.

One of these days, if I have some ambition and nothing better to do, I may try to do away with the rear holding cell. Since my pump is driven off the oil pump and is low in the car, it may work. But you can bet your ass I'd have at least a one inch line from front to back! That would probably hold at least a gallon all by itself.
Right out of the Smokey Yunick Nascar playbook. The rules say the tank can only hold "X" amount of fuel.....the rules don't say nothing about how much fuel line is allowed

Interesting,I only have 2 fittings from tank to pump,thats it,but the exit from the tank is not the ideal placement as the steering rack is in the way,the pump is mounted up high on top of the case and belt driven.So you are saying that the mechanical injection pump needs a better feed that the mechanical EFI pump? I would have thought it was the other way round as the efi pump has to be supplied with more fuel as it sends the extra back in the loop via the regulator,surely it is also always going to need 100% on the feed side at decent rpm?

My feed line is quite large,it does amaze me how long it runs on the fuel in the line only after each time I drained the tank so you have a good point there :)

cheers Richie   

They both need adequate supply to the suction side, and they both return unused fuel back to the fuel cell, but in different ways.  I believe it's a bit more critical on an MFI system
On EFI, (Constant pressure, variable duty cycle on the nozzle) the regulator will only bypass fuel past a certain pressure. It will hold pressure in the nozzle feed lines before it bypasses. If fuel pump output drops a little, it will reduce the amount of fuel bypassed to keep the pressure stable. At least as long as there is adequate fuel supply to the injector side. But I reckon on a set-up such as yours with a mechanical pump, the pressure varies with rpm like an MFI system does. But you set your nozzle nozzle duty cycle for that rpm/pressure.
 
On MFI, (Variable pressure, Constant flow nozzles) fuel gets bypassed regardless of pressure. You have one fixed size orifice for each cylinder and a fixed size bypass. What holds system pressure is "X" amount of fuel flowing through five fixed sized orifices (in a one nozzle per cylinder configuration). If the pump loses even a small amount of pressure, the nozzles won't flow as much, causing a lean condition. In that regard, MFI is completely dependent on fuel pump output.

Another example is that should the pump lose efficiency over time due to wear, the bypass jet needs to be adjusted to maintain system pressure. With an EFI regulator, it will still maintain the pressure it was set for, until pump output drops below what the motor needs

That makes sense, I dont think I want to learn to much about MFI though,I might be tempted to try it :o ;D


cheers Richie

With the lounge being down over the weekend, I really had no other choice than to get some work done. Thanks to the forum administrators for all you do!

Anyway, it's alive. The video is in quicktime, so it needs a quicktime player. Since the video, I got the idle cleaned up, but there's a still a few loose ends to wrap up. (leaky valve cover, a few bits that still need to be put on, etc.)

All things considered, it's good that my fittings welded onto the fuel cell didn't leak, in fact no fuel system leaks at all. Pretty amazing considering the plumber's nightmare this thing has become.

http://lawlessdesigns.com/It'sAlive.MOV
 The primary design criteria has been met. The decklid shuts. There's no stinger stickin' out the back. If it weren't for the numbers and other decals on the windows, it would look like a street car.
(http://lawlessdesigns.com/closethebook.jpg)

Awesome job Mike - there's something right and very purposeful about the sound of a blown flat-4 on alcohol that really does it for me:)
Good luck with the rest of this project; I really forward to future updates - fingers crossed for Bakersfield...  ;D

Hmmmmm...very interesting.  :)

Be safe buddy

Thanks Jamie!

Looks like I have done just about everything that needs doing. Now it's just a matter of running it at the track!

Hopefully, I'll have a positive report to post shortly after.

If anyone will be at the Bakersfield March Meet, come look us up!

Wish you had time to put it on a dyno Mike -- -- Went years without getting on one, Now that I've done it - firm believer -- beats the hell out of setting in the lanes waiting to make a pass

Not so easy to do up here Harold. I would have liked to have gotten it ballparked on a dyno, but there just isn't any within close proximity. It's as difficult to get the thing to a dyno as it is taking it to the track

Besides, I love being at the track. Waiting in the lanes is not a big deal. Not to mention that every pass is a learning experience. I think I can learn enough in a few passes to get it fairly close.

Hey there Mike, long time no see! Glad to see the car progressing with non traditional methods for a vw! Can't wait to see and hear that thing in action!

Mike

good to hear that you are making progress,heard you ran your 1st 10 in it yesterday,hope today goes even better :)


cheers Richie

I heard 2 more 10's today and drove onto the the trailer

Here's a status report from our weekend Test n Tune. First thing to keep in mind is that I had changed the main jet from the as-supplied 130 to a 165 (bigger main jet = leaner) to get it to "seemingly" run better last weekend. And now, the report....

Things didn't start well. Got unloaded and fired up without any trouble, but it just didn't seem "right". Decided to go tech it and get out on the track to see where we were and go from there.

But then the damn thing wouldn't fire back up after going through tech. I got a tow back to our pit by one of the famoso crew, but not before Track owner John Bowser asked me

"What the hell was wrong with the damn thing?" I said, "hell I don't know. It ran when I got here."

It fired right back up when we got back to our pit..

We finally got up for the first run, and the thing wouldn't run against the two step. Give it full throttle on the step, and it would just gasp and die out. It wouldn't even turn the tires over in the water box. So, back to our pit we went. Now, I did have a leaner setting in it than when I got the system, and after some detective work, I decided to return it baseline, as it was when delivered. It then responded by running up against the two step. Ok, now we're getting somewhere.

The next attempt was better, actually being able to do a burnout. Staged, dumped clutch and it falls on its face and dies. I start it back up and just drive down the track. I used the run to at least roll into the throttle to get some info. Still acting lean, popping and missing when I rolled into the throttle.

Back at the pits, I add more fuel, going to a 110 main jet, and swapping the .057" air bleed jet in the boost sensor (regulates fuel pressure under boost, smaller jet= higher fuel pressure, or richer fuel mixture) for a .049. Now it's starting to sound good and running hard up against the limiter. The next run, it does a fair burnout, I staged, dumped clutch and it bogs bad, but recovers and runs hard through second and third, but noses over in high. At about 1000 feet, I just clutch it and coast through so we don't burn it up.  I was very surprised to see 11.58@ 121mph. As crappy as the run was, I was expecting a 13 second time slip. Solid progress!

Back at the pits, we find some bolts had vibrated loose. Got those cinched down and added more fuel, changing to a .100 main. By this time, we had added a bunch as compared to the baseline setting. I just figured I'd keep adding till it stopped improving.

While waiting in the lanes, I decided to go ahead and bump the main to a .090". What the hell.

Run four was a big surprise. Burnout was good, it launched a big power wheelie, riding the wheelie bars out past the 60 foot beams, and pulled really hard through all the gears!

10.56@ 132.96

Yeah, I was happy with that, especially considering I only had a seven pound spring in the waste gate. Up till this point, I had a 7000 rpm chip in the two step

Today (Sunday) we made two runs. Two solid runs. Each with only a single change. On the first, I lowered the launch RPM from 7000 down to 6400. It bogged just a little on the starting line and went thru at 10.74 @ 133.55.

On the second run, the launch RPM was set to 6700, and no other changes. Result was 10.69 @ 130.37. This one was a bit squirrely maybe because I went right after junior dragsters. I got out of the groove a bit, taking the "Scenic Route." Both of the Sunday runs were with the 7lb spring in the waste gate.

We decided to call it a day. We got what we came for, and for the time being, it seems to like the higher launch RPM. I'm sure it's pretty fat now. I don't think the heads even got to 150°.

I need to lower the fuel pressure at idle a little more to clean that up.

We hope to have it changed around a little for our next outing by installing the TurboSmart eBoost. I'll use it's boost switch to launch with the boost a little lower, and then at a higher setting for the top three gears.

At least it sounds good in theory! And oh yeah, set my wheelie bars a little lower.

Other that the first couple of attempted runs just getting the thing to run, no major hick-ups, and we brought it home in one piece! It runs the index number we were shooting for at ridiculously low boost, and after doing some refining, we may step it up a bit to see what she's got.

Overall, the procedure for the weekend was "More Fuel. Give it more till it stops improving." But we ended up stopping with the .090" jet. I may leave it alone for now.

Here' a quick time video Cindy took with her iPhone, This is Saturday's 10.56 run
http://lawlessdesigns.com/wkratFamoso223.MOV

Mid-10s at only 1/2Bar.........
Bloody hell! It works OK then!  :D

 :D   


Well done Mike,

very good for a 1st time out with so many changes, I actually think your launch rpm may still be a little low,it would wheelie less if it was a little higher and it slipped the clutch more,or a little more launch boost would achieve the same thing, how were the 60fts?

cheers Richie

I'm open to try that Richie, and it makes sense.

The 60s were not great. In fact not much better than it used to be. Of course the best 60 was on the pass with the highest launch rpm. That one was 1.49. The short time with the launch at 6400 was 1.59, and at 6700 it was 1.52.

Another thing....
I really wasn't trying to "hit" the tree. However, with as long as I've been doing this, the my personal reaction has been virtually automatic. Historically, I haven't fallen off that much after a winter lay-off.

My best two RTs were .112 and .124, both on a .4 pro tree. So, that bugs me a bit. I think I may have a bit too much flow resistance in my clutch management. Engagement off the line seemed pretty soft for being a "heavy" clutch. So, I'll probably allow a little quicker release next time out. And possibly, after fixing a few glitches, I can more tightly focus on the tree. Maybe I'm just over-thinking that.

At the eighth mile, I have about a full second to shave off if I'm ever going to run it in Outlaw 8.5 at West Coast Hot Rod events. Those guys don't play nice at all. But it would be fun to give it a shot one day!

Thanks guys!

Congrats Mike.  What was the best time the car ran with the old setup?

Just a thought regarding the 60' times, if the car carried the wheels past the 60' timing beams then maybe it gave you the 60' time for the rear wheels?

Thanks Stretch. You are probably right about tripping the beam with the back wheels. I would prefer that it didn't do that, so we'll see what we can do to bring back down a little closer to earth

The best times with the car in NA trim were 11.23 at 121 with CBs Strip Dominator heads, and 11.38 @ 118 with the Comp Eliminators like it has now.

I have a few things to do before the March Meet. Some may calm it down, others may aggravate it. it's just a matter of finding what it likes. Needless to say, it's a much different animal than it once was!

Very impressive as always!

This shot got my attention, and this wasn't even the "BigWheelie" run!

The rear suspension is topped out from hitting the wheelie bar too hard, and the rear wheels are almost completely unloaded. There's daylight at the edges where the tire contacts the pavement.

Esto no es bueno!

here's the link

http://reflectionsof.photoreflect.com/store/Orderpage.aspx?pi=024S00LL000018&po=18&pc=215

This one too....

http://reflectionsof.photoreflect.com/store/Orderpage.aspx?pi=024S00LL000091&po=91&pc=215

Mike ----- I'm thinking I just saw your new thumbnail picture for your posts --- neat shot -- But i think that the suggestions you've been receiving on changes are right on

I think I'm as ready as I'm gonna get for the March Meet. I just couldn't swing the time to install the eBoost, so that will wait for another day. Myself and others felt it would be better to use the very little time between the last TnT session to address the car's new handling issues.
I have lowered the pivot point of my rear control arms to the center hole, down from the top hole. This should indroduce a little "squat" in the arse
I have modified my wheelie bracket to put the wheels about 2" off the ground from the 8" they were previously.
I have tightened up the front shock adjustment to 12 clicks out of the 24 available. In theory, this should slow the weight transfer to minimize the "dead hook" thing......at least in theory.
I have raised the launch rpm up to 7200. 200RPM above the 10.56 pass where it worked the best. Richie suggests that this will induce a bit of clutch slip at the hit.

The other thing I have learned is that just like my previous  mechanical injection system, the nozzle lines need to be removed if the car is to sit for any length of time. Last weekend at the track, I left them hooked up, and the damn thing wouldn't start sunday morning because it was flooded. I drained the oil yesterday to find about a quart and a half of fuel in the oil.....lesson learned!  Again. I thought I could get away from having to do that because the pump is now lower than the injector nozzles. However, the fuel cell is higher. So, it dribbles.

No amount of shaking will keep it from dribbling!

Best of luck at the meet Mike!

Rain Rain --- Stay AWAY

Kick some V8 butt this weekend Mike --- Good luck

Mike,

good build up, do you used the same cam with 108 LC?

Very cool. Love that car!  :)

Mike ran a 10.20 on a 10.60 index ---- gonna have to find a slow down button

Either that or try the 9.60 index..........

I rekn that motor would last forever with only 6psi.

Not Mike's, but Pat's ProStock VW at the March meet racing a Camaro in the 9.60 class at the 1:45 mark -- listen to the announcers LOL


http://www.ustream.tv/recorded/29809645#/recorded/29806928

HAHA!!!
 Damn that thing just JUMPS doesn't it?  :o

Downs just ran a 9.60 with a 4 and is NUMBER ONE QUALIFER

With Friday's March Meet rain delay, the sportsman classes had to finish up on monday. I had to be back at work and couldn't return. So I decided to give the round to my opponent so he could return.

Like Harold said, we ran 10.20 at 135mph on Thursday qualifying.....well under the D/Gas 10.60 index. On saturday, we attempted to qualify by fender racing the guy in the other lane. That kinda back-fired because he was a half second late at the tree. That run was 10.90.

It handled quite nicely after doing the chassis and wheelie bar adjustments

For our first round elimination round since we couldn't come back for round two, I went in deep, triggering the redlight, handing the win to my opponent and attempted to run it all out. I missed the shift to fourth gear, couldn't recover and coasted thru to an 11.15. However, it was a hundredth better at the 60 than the 10.60 run (1.43 to 1.42) and five hundredths better at the eighth (6.54 to 6.49). Had I gotten hold of high gear, it calcs out to 10.12 to 10.10. All with a seven pound waste gate spring.

I guess it can be said that I'm pretty happy with that

Now to get the e-Boost installed and do some racing.

It'll probably be late into the season before I consider exploring the outer limits. But I think it easily has mid nine second potential in it. I just don't know yet if I want to go thru the time and expense to cert the chassis and get licensed.

Mike --- just soften it up with the e-boost and save parts and have fun

Welcome to the dark side

It sounds like you had a great week end despite the rain.

We're off to the West Coast Hot Rod opener this coming weekend, so we will miss Phoenix.

After this event, we have some time to address some issues. First on the list is the clutch. To save money and time, I opted to go with replacing the McLeod "lite" pressure plate hat that I have been using with a "heavy" hat. It was quick and easy. It turned out to be not so quick and easy as some modifications needed to be done to make it work.

Well, it works. It doesn't slip. But the operation of it can best be described as "Hateful". Absolutely hateful. Coupled with the fact that with a flow control in the hydraulics to soften the hit, I haven't had a RT under .110 yet. Granted, I have only eight runs on the thing, and as yet, really haven't focused on that, but it still concerns me. That kind of RT just ain't gonna cut it in D/Gas competition with the V8 boys. Someone mentioned on another forum post that the hydraulic release bearing I rigged up would slow the release. Maybe that's what I'm seeing here.

So, I've got to look at options.

One is the Lummus Rev6. Mostly good reviews.
Another is a dual disc Tilton OT-II 7.25". No one using one in a VW that has given a critique that I know of. I've seen a mention or two, but no posted performance figures. So it's pretty much an unknown deal
Both pretty danged expensive, although the Tilton is a lot less money than the Rev6

Another option is a Kennedy dual disc. But with the experiences I've had with Kennedy stuff over the last couple of years, it's unlikely I'll give that any more than passing consideration. I'd have to buy a flywheel to make that work, so the cost wouldn't be any less than the Tilton.

Anyway, I've lobbed questions at both Lummus and Tilton. We'll see how it shakes out.

After day one of the WCHRA opener here at Famoso, we've made some solid improvements. I finally got the idle fuel flow under control, and it is not only cleaner, it's not using as much fuel either.

Something left over from my missed shift to high gear at the march meet on our last run there. Go up for my first run on Saturday at the WCHRA opener, no second, fourth or reverse gear. Not normally a big deal, but I couldn't come up with a cause. At any rate, got that fixed in time for the second qualifying run.
First run netted a .061 RT, and a 1.34 sixty. 10.30 at 133 with a five pound spring with the eBoost hooked up. Obviously still a ways to go there. The RT was definitely a step in the right direction, but the sixty foot time left me a bit slack jawed! This was primarily due to loosening up the CM. according to Cindy and Paul Miller, it's getting off the line very sweetly. Nice and soft, and moving forward.
First round of eliminations, we didn't make any changes other than the high side rev limiter. I'm up against a mid 60s Chevelle with some heady duty sponsor signage.
I have a .021RT to his .065, but didn't close the deal on him, running way under the 10.60 index, 10.50 at 115 to his 10.53, 126.
Even though we didn't get past our first round guy, there were still small victories. Getting the launch dialed in with good RTs was a victory.
This makes me think that perhaps I might be able to live with the clutch after all.

This year, WCHRA is two one-day events on the same weekend. A complete race with eliminations on Saturday, and again on Sunday. So, with Sunday being a whole new day, we got another shot at it.
I'm obviously not doing something right with the boost controller. I couldn't make any changes. Even so, not a lot of chances on Sunday. We got a single qualifying run then it was straight to eliminations. My first qualifying run was soft. I got the thing into high gear, and simply held the rpm to about 5500, then rolling gently into at the stripe. That got me 10.88, good for number 8 on the ladder.
This put me up against veteran racer Steve Barta in his early Chevy nova. Steve has been racing at Famoso at least as long as I have, and we had faced each other in days of old when we were racing a Dodge Challenger.
I had the advantage at the tree again, and again, I tried "Backing into him" beginning at the eighth mile, but took too much stripe again and ran 10.52 to his 10.58, handing Steve the win. He came by our pit after the round and said, "Damn that little car hauls ass!"

Paul Miller was there helping us out. He mounted his Go_pro to the back bumper for this little video. Barta's nova is in the other lane...

http://lawlessdesigns.com/RearView.mov

Solid progress anyway, and we are pretty happy. Once we get a handle on the boost control, I think we can compete with this bunch!

Nice 60fts,thats a real impressive improvement for how heavy that car is still,shows the R&P,1st gear ratio etc is all working out correctly :)  balancing the CM adjustment and getting the car to actually leave is real difficult to get right,sounds like you are close though.
Any thoughts on how you can slow it down? I have a couple of ideas that may help or just be plain stupid but here goes anyway ;D  How about instead of using the e boost to increase boost as you go down track, use it to take some out? You need enough at the start to get it moving and overcome the taller gear ratios,but start maybe in 4th taking boost out to slow it down,or how about a 4th gear timing retard? maybe even need it in 3rd as well but you got to start somewhere, proberly need a TNT to figure out what it needs or doesnt.

cheers Richie

It's almost as if you read my mind Richie! Almost as if we're twin brothers from different mothers born a few years and a continent apart....So if it's a stupid idea, then we're both thinking stupid!
I have those same concerns about taking boost away from the launch. It launches so sweet now, I'd hate to back away from that.

What do you think about a high gear switch to change to the lower boost setting, with perhaps an "Oh Chit" button to over ride that by opening the connection?

 ;D At least I am not the only one

What are you running 1/8 mile et and mph? I really think if it is working well to the 1/8th then leave that alone and just focus on the 2nd half of the track,either a switch when you shift to 4th or something time based? I know that would proberly be a little more complex,all though the Eboost 2 is all time based so it can be done simply by swapping that out[read spending more money :o ]

I would try a simple 4th gear switch to begin with and see how that works out,I am guessing that a little fender racing is easier if the mph is slower as well,easier to judge? only guessing though as its not something I really ever tried ;)

cheers Richie

Richie
It's running around 6.50 at 104mph to the eighth. On the runs that I "backed into" my opponent, trap speed was about 115. That might take zero boost in high gear to accomplish! Might actually have to kick 'er back in third. A shift coupler switch wouldn't be hard to make to do that.

Sounds like it needs normal boost for 1st and 2nd then a lower setting for 3rd and 4th so you have more of a window to tune it into,coupler swithc would be simple enough,thats all i did for my 1st gear CM switch on the old cab

Whens next race outing?

cheers Richie

I'll get to work on that.

Next outing will be April 19-21st, with the American Nostalgia Racing Association, again at Famoso. It will also be a D/Gas, pro tree deal.

Thanks for your insights Richie!

Your always welcome :) now we need to look at our family trees to see where they cross ;D

cheers richie

Richie, I am going to implement your advice. I whipped this button mount up this week for the e-boost controller. It's wired in such a way as I hope i don't have to use it much. Rather than mess with the way the car is launching for the time being, I've programmed the second setting of the e-boost to lower the boost. It is triggered by a shift coupler switch to activate on the shift to third gear, and stay active through high gear. The switch on the steering wheel is a "normally closed" switch. Left alone the circuit is active. Push the button, and it breaks the circuit, bringing it back to the default higher boost setting. This will be used if something happens during a run and I need to over-ride the lower boost setting to get some extra performance.

Over time, I'll refine the settings. I may ultimately find a setting that doesn't require a shift to a lower or higher boost setting in mid run. In my mind, that would be ideal. We'll see how this work on our next outing, hopefully on April 20-21.

Now, this photo is truly a multi-purpose photo. It fits in the "Steering Wheel" Thread, as well as the "Shifter" thread, with a genuine Hurst shifter. This one has aluminum pivot plates I made for it years ago. I think it even fits in the "throttle Cable" thread as you can see my Morse Cable that is used for the throttle.

(http://home.comcast.net/~mlawless29/O-ChitButton.jpg)

Great photo Mike. If my street cars looked 1/2 as nice as your race car I'd be very pleased!

Are you used to chasing or being chased? I rekn that's more the point with set-up. If you can still drill the tree and leave soft at the same time, it means you can have a good top end speed advantage at the other end, as well as being kinder on components.

Always watch your thread.
Good luck at the track.

Thanks modnrod!

The plan was to be the chaser. That's the way I like it. I feel as though I have more control. However, if the car could repeat the index number consistently, then it could be left up to the other guy to make a mistake. So far it's not working out that way. Index or bracket racing is all about mistakes. Who makes the mistake and when  typically determines the outcome. After all, if the run were perfect, meaning a triple zero reaction time, and running dead on the index, it would be unbeatable! That's not going to happen. The realistic goal would be to fine tune "the Package" (A combo of reaction time and how much time over the index. Example: an RT of ..020 and a run of 10.61 on a 10.60 index is a .030 "package") to leave as little as possible. Most of the guys who run in the index classes, at least in the V8 world, typically have .03 to .08 second  "packages" .

But then we've only got a few runs on the thing so far. My hope is to get things sorted to where I can be behind in the first half, then reel 'em in. I just need to find out how soft I can launch the thing without sacrificing the all-important reaction time.

Similar package times over here in my bike classes I run.

Life has a way of getting in the way of things we enjoy doing every now and then. For us, that time is now. Unfortunately, I’m having to hang up my racin’ jacket for at least the short term. It may be weeks, or it may be months. Just have to see how it plays out.
In the meantime, there are some things that didn’t get done, or weren’t finished the way I would like in order for us to make it to the Bakersfield March Meet.
One of these items was an unkind cut I had to make to the engine bay floor. When everything was said and done, the pipe from the #2 exhaust port hit the edge of the opening. (The cut can be seen in the photo below).
(http://home.comcast.net/~mlawless29/TurboFinis.jpg)
I also recessed the firewall a bit where the breather box is mounted. I had an opening there already for fuel system access, so it was a minor modification. Still, it needs some finish work.
For the opening, I started by plotting a radius that would expand the engine bay opening with a nice symmetrical look. I then formed a strip of sheet steel with a rolled edge (photo below) that will serve as the “flange” to give the opening a finished appearance. Once complete and painted, I think it will be virtually unnoticeable much like the wheel tubs.
(http://home.comcast.net/~mlawless29/enginebay.jpg)

This time off will also allow me to reassess the entire package. What else is there that can be improved?

Normally, I don't ask opinions on appearance related items. However, I'm getting a batch of stuff ready to go to get powder coated. The intake manifold end pieces and various odd bits will get coated gloss black, the hot side turbo housing and exit pipes a flat "titanium" high heat coating, etc.

On the compressor housing, which is now rough cast finish aluminum, I've considered polishing it, or coating it gloss black. The piece attached to the firewall that the injection junction block is attached to has already been polished.

I'm leaning toward gloss black on the compressor housing. What do you guys think?

Can't go wrong with black, should look real nice.  Just make sure they do a real good job of masking it off and be very specific about where to mask.  It's a Bitch to get off and is relatively thick.

Thanks Taylor. I found that out the hard way years ago!

Do you think I need to smooth out the exterior of the housing before coating?

It depends on the look YOU want Mike --- A little smoothing goes a long way towards a polished finish -- IF they put the coating on thick, that has a way of smoothing too

It's always a good idea to take care of the casting seams.  Depending on the media they use and how hard they lay into it, the edges and sharp corners will be sort of rounded off anyway. 

With my wife's health improving, it looks like we're going to run the car at Sacramento. I haven't got the stuff back from the powder-coaters yet, but it should be any day. In the meantime, the engine bay has been refinished, and a lot of the stuff I cobbed together to get it to the track, has been re-done.
Once back together, it should look pretty nice, and some functions will be improved as well.

Since we haven't run the car since mid March, we haven't been able to dial 'er down to run the 10.60 index. On top of that, BRS has brought the "SuperComp" index at its events to 10.90. Sooooo, rather that fight with that, we're just gonna run it in Pro Eliminator which is simply a dial-in bracket and just let the car run what it runs. Last time out, with a 5lb spring in the waste gate and a very soft setting in the eboost controller, it ran 10.30 at 133. Before that, it ran 10.20 at 135 with a 7 lb spring and no controller.

The "BigQuestion" is, can I stay out of trouble?

Mike really pleased to hear Cindy is doing better,please give her our best wishes :)




Now as to the staying out of trouble part :o ;D  I have no idea how to do that ;)        So with that in mind


Time for you to get the medical done ready to start licensing  8)


I know what you said before about that,and it is proberly a pain,and is expensive,but as you have said since   "never say never"  at the very least you will get a better idea if it is even feasible to run C-gas with it in its current guise
Good luck in sac :)


cheers Richie

Thanks Richie. The medical won't be an issue, as I have a full physical every year anyway. The chassis will need a few tweaks before attempting to cert that, and, I need to run good enough to justify it.

In the meantime, most of the detail work is complete.

Before....
(http://home.comcast.net/~mlawless29/TurboFinis.jpg)


And after...
(http://home.comcast.net/~mlawless29/TurboFinis2.jpg)

Thought you guys would like to know that Mike is letting it all hang out at Sacramento this weekend at Bug-o

Saturday night 9.86 @143

He is Hauling ass

Wow! Awesome job Mike, and congratulations on your first nine. Thanks for letting us know Harold.

Mission accomplished!
Our only objective for this outing was to find out the car's potential. Although I put together this combo with the intent of running the 10.60 index class, for this event, the Sacramento Bugorama, I decided to enter it into the dial-in bracket class, so I could run it out rather than choke it down trying to hit the index.

After talking things over with Pat Downs before making any runs, I told him I had in mind to keep things simple and "old school" and rather than using the boost controller, just swap waste gate springs around. He agreed, so that's what I did.

On the first run on Saturday, I put a ten pound spring in the wastegate. Results were 10.05 at 137 and change. A pretty good improvement from the 10.20/135 at the March Meet. The run was smooth and straight. No wiggles, no hick-ups. I checked 'er out at the pits, everything was good, so I added a 5 pound spring to bring the spring package to 15 pounds. One of the reasons I believe methanol to be the perfect fuel for an air cooled VW is that after the run, the head temps didn't even get to 150° F

On second run, it got out of the groove to the left right out of the gate, but I nudged 'er back and the rest of the run was straight. Bam! 9.85 at 143mph!

The first half numbers are really soft for that kind of trap speed, so there's some fiddlin' to do to bring that part around. Best short time was 1.37. Not bad, but a long ways from being where it would need to be to have the best ET for that top end speed. It was 6.37 at 111mph to the eighth. Soft ET, big mph there too. Compared to other cars that are running that kind of MPH...for instance Pat Downs, who ran 9.49 at 140...well, one can see there's some room for improvement without adding more boost.

My impressions during that run was that it didn't feel all that fast. It was really smooth. It pulls really REALLY hard in all the gears, and the shift to second comes very quickly. On top, no wiggles, but it does take quite a bit more effort to get 'er slowed down after the run!

Anyway, right after we made the second run, they shut the track down to faster cars, and that automatically lit the drinking light for us! A nice Amber Lager in hand, we headed to the CB booth to socialize.

The next morning, Tech Director Mark Trembly comes by our pit for a friendly chat.  Mark says, "I hear you made a good run last night. Congratulations!"

"Yep," says I. "Mark, are we gonna have 'TheTalk?'" (I am not licensed, nor is the chassis certified to run quicker than 10 flat at this time)

Mark laughed and said yeah, we're gonna have 'TheTalk!' One more run in the nines and you're done."

"Ok Mark. I'll back 'er down," says I.

So, the ten pound spring went back in. Next two runs were 10.15 and 10.16. Then  I red lit in round one. What can I say? I haven't run on a full tree in two years. It was still a lot of fun!

We talked to a lot of people who came by our pit area, and we got a lot of compliments. Thanks to everyone that stopped by to chat. All very much appreciated!

Cindy had a good time too. She's still having a bit of difficulty getting around, but she weathered it well. She was very happy that we were able to make the event. Thank you for everyone's well wishes for her.

OK, so now what?
For the time being, we're gonna back 'er down for the 10.60 index. Yeah, we can tune on it some more and get it to run the 9.60 index. The potential really is there, as evidenced by that big top speed. Some clutch and shock/spring tuning, launch RPM, just figuring out what it likes, will probably get it there. A bit more boost too. And then I haven't messed with timing or jetting at all since the February TestnTune.

But....
And this is a big hairy butt...At this particular time, I don't want the added expense of the certification and licensing process, not the mention the added maintenance expense of running the car that hard. Maybe later when Cindy is doing better health-wise. For now, we'll just go back to a low boost setting and set to the task of winning rounds again and just try to have some fun with the car without beatin' the crap out of it.

So as far that the 9 second thing goes. We did it. I'm glad we did it, and now we know for sure. I'll work toward that goal of getting legal over time. Maybe, Just maybe, I'll be able to line up with Richie's street car in C/Gas at a March Meet one day. (9.60 index)
Two street legal 9 second VWs facing off in front of 10,000 nostalgia racing fans....Wouldn't that be something?

Interesting side note...
I dug out the best time slip for our Dodge Challenger from 1987. 9.69 @ 139. And that was a full tube chassis car with 14 inch wide tires, with a big block, injected on methanol, lexan windows...the whole bit.

Big BIG thanks to Rick Tomlinson of CB for providing meals for us and for providing some refuge for Cindy when she needed it. Thanks also to Scott Sebastian for your help this weekend. As it turned out though, when you asked for the 10mm nut for Andre's car right before round one of elimination, I should have told you to pound sand. Andre is on his own!

Just kidding of course!

Mike

1st congrats on that ET & MPH, very well done  8)  I know you will find a bunch of little things to improve on, but try to leave it mainly alone now it works, I don't need you going to much quicker than that please, I need to concentrate on the new cab, not be chasing after you with the old one to try catch up ;) ;D   Now the C/Gas idea sounds really cool, if and when you decide to do that let me know and we will be there for sure. I will even put some sissy sticks on it to make it run consistent, Bollox will I, only kidding I get enough abuse for the new car :o ;D  But lining up with you and the ghia at March meet C/gas has now been added to my bucket list.

I don't know what your aims are for the 60ft, 1.37 is pretty dam good for a soft set up in a heavy car, particularly a turbo car

cheers Richie

Haha Richie! You crack me up.

The Bucket List thing is a good idea. I'll add that to mine as well.

I'd imagine we'll not worry about staying within the index, hmmm?

You're right about the sixty. A soft set-up keeps trans components alive.

First things first. I have to work toward getting the chassis cert and getting licensed before we can pair off.

Richie, I really appreciate your insight throughout this project. You've been a big help!

Gday Mike.
Congratulations man! 143? That's pinning the ears back a bit.  :D
Quick little Ghia that one, good onya.

Big CONGRATULATION Mike

 ::)

MeXX

Very impressive. Way to go Mike

Thanks guys!

A post race inspection along with a discussion about clutch management systems on a another forum, brought something to light. As it turned out, my CM system was switched off for the entire weekend, yet the clutch engagement wasn't all that harsh. McLeod 8" "J&G" style floater, with the heavy diaphragm and a Kennedy 4 puck. I don't have a torque wrench that goes high enough to actually measure the break-away. Let's just say that it's well north of 200 ft/lbs.

The reason it wasn't harsh? I haven't taken it apart to confirm yet, but others that are using similar systems with the Biondo solenoid say that the Biondo unit is very restrictive. So restrictive that it may not make a bunch of difference whether it is on or off. If it's in line, it will restrict the flow. So we'll be looking at that over the next few weeks and reveal what we have found.

I bought into the marketing description that said "high flow". I reckon the only way to know for sure is flow test it and compare it to another brand as well as a length of the #4 tube by itself.

I really like what MeXX is doing with clutches. One of these days. I looked at the Lummus Rev6 but at the time, couldn't swing the price. So now we'll just have to work with what we have. All things considered, it works. It's just a matter of figuring out the best compromise.

Interesting, I am just using generic jegs solenoids but haven't noticed the symptoms you are describing, both my cars are "overclutched"  If I get it wrong and there is no slip then the car just bogs real bad, or as happened this last weekend it just blew the tyres off.
I am using 2 solenoids[well not actually using as the second one is obsolete due to not needing to do what it was intended] but it does mean that when I release the clutch with it switched off it flows back through both of them so double the capability to move the fluid.

I did just open a jegs solenoid and that hole is tiny :o

cheers Richie

Part of the phenomenon in my own case Richie, is I use a Tilton flow control valve that uses a changeable jet, rather than a twist knob. For this last weekends race, since I knew I was going to be on a full .5 tenth tree, I changed the jet from the .050" jet to a .028" to slow the rate of release so I would have less risk of going red. This valve free flows in one direction and has controlled flow in the other.

I did get some wheel spin on a couple of the runs including the 9.85 run. But Sac has never been a "tight" track either. And I did redlight in round one. I attributed this to just not being worth a damn on a full tree and anticipating the last amber. Maybe, but maybe not

Based on area of the combined orifices, assuming the line loc orifice is in the neighborhood of .035" based on other peoples estimates (size of a paper clip wire), the area of the .050" orifice still exceeds that of a .035" combined with a .028" orifice.

The math says that  the engagement,  due to the small orifice in the flow control valve combined with the small passages in the solenoid, was still dampened.

Or am I miscalculating?

I did try a couple of brands of "Adjustable Bias valves" but couldn't get the restriction I wanted, but they were just simple twist the knob types, I also had some different length clutch arms to change the ratio that way as well, all longer than the stock bus box arm.

The math is not my strong point, I prefer the "suck it and see" method ;D But I think you are correct, but is that actually a problem for you? if you are getting wheelspin then more clutch slip is needed so whatever is already in place shouldn't affect it, unless you are getting slip in other gears? I don't see any evidence of that in my set up unless I set it to do it, or when the clutch has worn to much and the breakaway needs re-setting

Another point that I think is valid is that as the clutch discs wear the slippage rate changes, depending on what clutch combo and how you set breakaway it can change in either direction, this is why I feel the need for easy adjustment and why I don't see the RLR clutch working for me, if you race at different tracks with different start line grip levels[ as you mention Sac being different to Bakersfield ? ]  you have to remove the engine and set it up again and until you have lots of runs at each track to get the data you are just guessing what is needed.

And when you slip them a lot they do wear quick, particularly with a double disc that I have been using.

Anyway just leave it as it is, you running 9.8s gives me a good chance to drive round you, we both know I am never going to cut a light on you unless you are asleep :o ;D


cheers Richie

You guys are tempting me to make my next car a BLOW DRYER version! LOL Every time I watch Richie's vert make a pass....it gets the wheels turning in my head. Pro Street car...with my Porsche gear box....8lbs of boost....drive it to the track....run an 11:00 (easy) and drive home...  Hmmmmmm

Might have to get some cam advice and a few other things from you two guys!

Rick M

I don't know what Richie is using cam-wise Rick. The Blue Car has a CB 2289 on a 112° lobe center. Combined with Pauter 1.5 rockers, which on this particular combo actually measure out closer to 1.6, the lift at the valve is around .630".
The goal for this was a 10.60 ET. Since we blew right past that with ridiculously low boost, I'm considering replacing the rockers with CB 1.4s. Maybe it'll be easier to control the boost if I can actually have it close to 8 to 10 psi and have it run close to the number.

At this point in time, and with recent developments in my personal life, I have no desire to run the car to the limit. I barely have the desire to get out and work on it all.

When I do bring it back out, I do want to be competitive in the very tough 10.60 index classes outside the VW world. I also want to get 'er backed down to that so it will have some semblance of reliability. At this point, if I were to have a catastrophic engine or trans failure, I'd probably park it.

Don't talk yourself out of racing Mike. What you've achieved at such low boost levels I still find incredible really, the whole package is very, very tough.
I know personal stuff puts playtime into perspective, but I know for me at least I was once told the "racer" in me is part of who I am, it's difficult to walk away from yourself.

Keep tinkering at it when you get the urge, and I hope things improve for you off track.

That's some very impressive times, Mike! Well done! Matt

Thanks guys!
I'm starting to get back into it. It's been a couple months since my wife passed. Actual racing will resume again with the 2014 Bakersfield March Meet.
In the meantime, there is a Test n Tune session at Famoso in early November. My son Mark and I will take the car out and see if we can get it ball-parked for the D/Gas 10.60 index before the winter layoff. My hope is to find a setting that will produce a 10.50 time slip repeatedly. I talked to Pat Downs about putting lower ratio rockers on it. He feels it will make no difference, and might even make it faster.

So.... we'll start out with a 5 pound spring in the waste gate and go from there.

Over the winter, I'm going to reconfigure the oiling system to try to get a handle on it's tendency to puke a bit out the breather tank, and address oil control in the sump. I'm working on a new sump that will be around 7 quart capacity. We'll just have to wait and see how that works out.

With about a month to go before running the Blue Car at the last Test 'n' Tune session of the year, I have switched rockers contrary to my friend Pat's advice. I ended up putting CBs 1.3 ratio rockers on it. Net lift at the valve has gone from .630" with the 1.5 Pauters to .510" with the CBs. At the very least, it should be easier on things. What the effect will be, I don't know.

Pat thinks it's a waste of time and that I should switch cams instead. He's probably right, but the rockers were easy to do. I didn't really want to tear the whole thing down again. So we'll see how it goes.

The hope is that it will need about 7-10 pounds of boost to run a 10.50 flat out.

Best of luck to you Mike -- I like "easier on things" too

Over the weekend, I took the Blue Car down off it's perches, gave it a badly needed bath, fresh oil and oil filter and buttoned 'er up. As it turns out, my alternator went bad and drained the battery. It took a bit of time to get the battery recharged, but I had a spare (Odyssey PC680), so I'll just run it with the alternator disconnected for this TnT.
I went ahead and fueled 'er up, and she lit right off. The idle speed is a little high, but it's such a pain to change (I have to make a special tool. The stop screw is kinda buried). It'll be fine for now.

My son Mark is gonna run his tan '67 streeter looking for an 11 second ET slip. He ran 12 teens at Sac in September on his final run, and if he hadn't pedaled it trying to keep from breaking out, it woulda got there. Hideaway Turbo/EFI running on E85. Total sleeper!

My good friend Allen Wiess will be stopping by to lend a helping hand, and good friend Paul Miller will be there running his tan 67. For those who don't know Paul, he is an original BugIn veteran, having won the OCIR events a couple times in the same car. Paul and that tan 67 have some history!

We're gonna be burning some animal flesh and downing some cervesas on Saturday night, and tellin' each other lies. Should be a good time.

While we're there, we'll hoist one in memory of my angel co-pilot. This will be the first time running the car without her
(http://lawlessdesigns.com/Cindy.jpg)

Sounds like you'll have the perfect group there with you at the track Mike -- May the Fast be with you -==-

Here's to some Great passes, be thinking of you

Famoso TnT, November 2-3
It was a bit weird, a bit unsettling to be driving down alone. This was the only time that I've ever taken the Blue car racing without Cindy. Every now and then, I'd look over at the empty passenger seat on the way down...
Once at the track, it was pretty much down to business. Turnout was moderate. Quite a few more "Fast 'n' Furious" street cars than I figured, but other than them constantly up on the limiter in the pits, they weren't a bother. (they were "tuning". That's why they're called "tuners")
It was Paul Miller, my son Mark and I, and Allen Wiess dropped in to lend a hand and shoot some video.

Mark hit his goal of an 11 second time slip by running 11.81. His car is a full weight '67 sedan, with CBs hideway turbo, and running on E85. This car is a driver.

Paul ran a string of mid 11 second passes with no hiccups.

I had done some stuff to the car to attempt to tame it down a bit to hit the 10.60 D/Gas index. This included 1.3 ratio rockers, which cut the net lift at the valve from .630 down to .510".
That, and a 5lb spring in the waste gate, with no electronic controls.

Saturdays runs went like this....
First run, straight off the trailer, 10.60 with a zero! That's 10.600, with the goal of hitting the 10.60 index. Speed was 128 and change, short time was 1.42. Shift points were at 7300rpm and trap rpm was about 6700. I figured, that'll do just fine!
Next run, the only change was shifting at 7500. 10.50 at 128 and change. Short time consistent with the first
Third run, back to the 7300 rpm shift point, 10.587 at 130. Short time 1.41.
Fourth run, no changes, later in the day so it was a bit warmer, 10.62 at 128 and change.
All runs were driven out the back door. So, to say I'm pleased with that outcome is an understatement!

I still have soft setting for the clutch. It comes out soft and as it achieves lock-up, the wheelie climbs and loads the wheelie bars pretty hard in the middle of first gear. Pretty funny feeling! If you "slo-mo" through the mike-l131 video at about the minute and a half mark, you can seen the wheelie climb.

My best light was .063. I think I can leave that setting as is and stage a bit deeper.

I made one run on Sunday. It popped out of second, I put it back in and it popped right back out. Soooo, the dog rings need some attention. It was gonna go in for service over the winter break anyway.
At least the reaction time and sixty were consistent.

At any rate, both Mark and I left happy. We both achieved our goals.

Video links below. They're full resolution MP4s, so they may take a bit to load. Best is to open 'em in a new window, and let 'em load while you look at other stuff

Mine....
http://lawlessdesigns.com/mike-l127.MP4
http://lawlessdesigns.com/mike-l129.MP4
http://lawlessdesigns.com/mike-l131.MP4

Marks.....
http://lawlessdesigns.com/mark-l128.MP4
http://lawlessdesigns.com/mark-l133.MP4

Fantastic Mike -- You've always had a great handle on the Ghia

Thank you for sharing Mike! Highly appreciated.

Best rgs
BB

Great videos Mike!
How did you go with your sump modifications?

I haven't implemented that yet Dave. Even so, with the reduced RPM, I hasn't getting any puking. The only thing that drained out of the overflow, was some condensed methanol.

The sump will go on during the winter break. I'd still like a bit more capacity and better "slosh" control.

Hehehehehe...... ;D

So you take out a heap of lift, short-shift the thing, yawn a bit I spose and have a look around, then run 10.600.
Bloody show-off! HAHAHA!

Outstanding! Well done Mike.

Thanks Mod!

The bigger trick I think will be getting it to do the same thing at the Bakersfield March Meet. It's gonna be very very difficult to not fiddle with it!

I couldn't be any happier with the way it performed. Seems I can adjust up or down just by varying the shift point and leave the boost level alone.

So, over the winter, trans service and installing my bigger and baffled oil sump, and I'm done.

Not a typical off-season!

Sometimes wins happen in the pits anyway Mike.

Do you know how to skate around the carpark while your BBQ is cooking between rounds perhaps?
Worked for the "Surfers"!  :D
Wear a great big straw hat and a really loud shirt while your at it..........

This pic popped up in a gallery of drag cars today... :)

(http://chivethethrottle.files.wordpress.com/2013/12/user-max-crackle-prt2-920-24.jpg)

Thanks gingabloke!

That photo had to have been at the March Meet this year. We've only had the car out three times, and the MM was the only event we ran with the D/G designation on the window. Since then, I have new signage on the windows with the class designation being permanent.

We have all of our "Ducks in a Row" for the 2014 Bakersfield March Meet. Our entries are in and once again, we'll be close to the front near the Nitro pits. We have nine VW racers pitted together in one huge pit space. Last year, we got a bit of digital ink, with Bangshift posting photos of our pit area.

Looking forward to the event. We should be able to hold our own in the super tough D/G class. Muffler Mike Shelden, Allen Wiess and perhaps Richie Webb will be running in D/G with me. Mark Lawless, Paul Miller, Troy Palmer, and Jo Clifford will be competing in HotRod, and Dean Nilson will be in C/G.

Richie wanted to dial back to 10.60 so him and I could square off together during qualifying. I hope it works out. I doubt either one of us will be concerned with hitting the index if it works out that way!

I haven't been keeping up to date in my reports. Shame on me!

So far, we've had the Blue Car out only twice this year. We ran it at the Bakersfield March Meet in the 10.60 "D/Gas" index class. We qualified very well with a 10.608. It was good for the number one spot....for about five minutes. By the end of the first round of qualifying, it was good for number four! By the end of qualifying (two rounds only) I had dropped to number 7. Kinda shows how tough the competition is.

I ended up running under the index and lost in round one, even though I had my opponent covered at the tree. I took too much stripe. Out of practice I reckon.

Our second outing was Drag Day at Irwindale. We ran in Mike Herberts new "Pro Eliminator" class. Pretty much a "quick 16" format on a pro tree. Dial your own ET, but whatever you choose cannot be changed. Qualifying is done with reaction time. My .023 was good for the number one spot and earned me the first round bye because of the uneven number of cars. I dispatched my competitors one by one, and ended up the victor!

This weekend is BugIn and the second round of the three race series. I'm heading in with the points lead and a target on my back. If lady luck is with me, we should do well.

However, I think my very good friend and long time racing rival Mike Sheldon should be back in action. That will add a good amount of spice to the mix!

It seems the season has barely started, and I'm already thinking of next year, and what needs to be done in the off season

I'm considering going with a simpler engine arrangement in light of the fact that the tune is so soft on the current configuration. I'm only running a 5pounds spring in the waste gate, 24° of total timing, and short shifting to get it to run the 10.60 indexes. It still runs well under even at that.
I have maybe 800 runs on my Scat 84mm flanged crank, and my case has some fretting on the main saddles.

So, I'm thinking of going to a standard journal, 78mm stroke gland nut crank and just use type 1 bearings. I figured that since I'm only running the motor to 7200 rpm, (launch and shift) and about 6800 thru the traps, the simpler set-up would suffice.

Chances are that I wouldn't get 800 runs out of it, but at my current level of involvement, I might get four seasons, (200 runs total) then change the stuff out.

Anyway, off to Sacramento this weekend. We'll run the car in the 10.90 index class, and I'll probably have to put a 3pound spring in the waste gate to slow it down enough for that. We don't have any "skin in the game" as far as points for that series, so it'll just be for fun.....and giving my friends, Allen Wiess and Mike Shelden as hard a time as I can!

Hi Mike

how did the weekend go?

cheers Richie

Socially, it was awesome! I love coming to Sac and being among friends!

Racing-wise, pretty disappointing. The index fields have dwindled and counting us, there were only four cars in Super Comp. To top that off, I really haven't been keeping up on maintenance, and a change in between race procedures bit me hard. This year, since it's been a good while between events, I've been draining the system and flushing with gasoline. Big mistake it seems.
This time, the car wouldn't even run above an idle. Opening the pressure side fuel filter revealed why. The sealant that is used to fasten the filter element end caps to the screen had decomposed, and sent that flotsam throughout the system. With all the valves, lines, pressure regulators and nozzles, it would have been near impossible to clean it thoroughly, especially since I'd have to run without a filter. I just didn't want to risk a plugged nozzle, and I really didn't wanna do the work. So, we sat this one out.

Hard lesson to learn. I really wanted to mess with Allen W and Muffler Mike too!

So, essentially, SC was a two round race. Allen got a single into the final since we couldn't run, and Mike had the "Bad Karma" center steer Ghia roadster. Mike won that round, and won in the final when Allen missed his second gear shift.

I'm gonna have to seriously consider how to deal with next season regarding BRS events.
I certainly don't like the idea of only three or four cars in the class. No new racers are coming in, and many of the former Super Gas and Super Comp racers have moved over to the newer heads up classes such as Pro Gas and Pro Turbo. Can't blame 'em. Racers wanna race. There just aren't enough racers to fill in these days.

BTW, Lauffers ran a 7.83 at over a buck eighty on Saturday!

 

After my little fuel system mishap at the May bugorama, I suspected the pressure side fuel filter was not compatible with ethanol laced fuels. It said so in the documentation when I bought a new element. I figured that since I was using pump gas (10% ethanol) to flush the system before letting it sit for a while, that the ethanol had attacked the sealant in the filter.

As it turns out, just today, I got a call from the supplier. Apparently this same thing had been happening to other racers on a widespread scale. And this was after he told me he had never seen anything like that before, back when I first brought the problem to his attention. Come to find out, the manufacturer had changed formulations on that sealant without notification. Now, they are waranteeing all the filter sold with the newer sealant. So, I get a new filter.

At any rate, the system has been cleaned, checked out, some tweaks made, and ol' Blue car is ready to go for Labor day at Sac.

My son will also be running his '67 street car, EFI turbo on E85.

I'm gonna do a cajun style shrimp boil in the pits Saturday night! Getting anxious!

Sounds like you guys have a lot of fun!

How much boost do you think you could run safely? do you never get the itch to see what it'll do and say sod the times (you get two chances right?) just for giggles ;)

The fuel system is really overkill. It was built to support 30psi. It only took 15psi to run 9.85 at 143. If, and this is a big IF, I could get the first half numbers to coincide with the last half numbers, the potential for a mid 9 second run is there, based on the 143mph trap speed.

At 30psi....
Kinda scares me to think. But I'd bet it would start hurting stuff. The bottom end of the motor is fairly stout, but the barrels are run of the mill, CIma/Mahle with off the shelf Wiseco pistons. Those would show their weakness in short order I'd guess.

An yeah. I do think "What if we......Just this one time....."
Then reality sets in and I start thinking about the consequences. At least for now, I'll just keep a lid on it and enjoy racing within my means. But someday, I may do something ill-advised and see what happens!

The more you think about it, the less it makes sense to try really does it!
congrats either way, a 9 second run is amazing!

Our season is over and we were able to secure the Pro Eliminator "Triple Crown" championship! Now I'm on to the off season work. Motor and trans are out. Trans is going off for freshening and a return to synchros after a couple seasons using pro rings. Too much maintenance! I use to go two or three seasons without touching the trans, and now it's out about every 30 or 40 runs.

A few things became bothersome over the course of the season. Fuel system became contaminated...twice because of a bad fuel filter. Both instances were because of a break-down in the epoxy adhesive that holds the stainless steel mesh and end pieces together. The solution...(after giving the supplier an earful) is to simply not run a second filter. I run one, up front before the pump and that filter has been doing the job for eight years now. I only added the second filter a couple years ago, and up till then, I've had no fuel contamination issues.

I'm going to move to a dual disc clutch. The single McLeod 8" clutch has too much pedal effort.

Also, since I don't rev the livin' snot out of the motor anymore, I'm making the move back to a more conservative short-block arrangement. A standard CB aluminum case, and a CB 78mm stroke wedgemated crank with all type 1 bearing journals. This will most likely require an increase in boost from 5 psi to maybe 7 or 8 psi to compensate for the smaller displacement. I figure for a max rev of about 7000 rpm, there's just no need for super expensive hardware that requires significant effort to make it fit. The crank then becomes a "consumable." Run for 2 or 3 seasons, replace it. This combo will also use a stock weight flywheel to aid the launch.

Maybe, just maybe, I might put a fan shroud on it after a time to make it more streetable in order to get additional enjoyment out if it.

Then again, maybe not. I'm having a delightful time filling the non racing time by riding both my HD Sportster and my Triumph Bonneville on long road rides up in the mountains just to the east of where I live.

Congrats on the new title Mike!

Original iron stuff or newer smooth,fluffy and cuddly EFI bikes?  :D
Either way it's good to get out and cruise around, clears the head like nothing else.

Have a good one.

Thanks modnrod!
The Harley is a 2002 carbed model. It's loud, it's raw, and its unforgiving. It's really an awesome ride! At 70 mph, you can't see shit out of the mirrors!

The Bonne is new. I stopped by the dealer on a whim, just to check 'em out, y 'know?

45 minutes later, I'm ridin' it home! It is everything the Sportster is not. Smooth, quiet, refined....and it turns with very light input!
I'm gonna ride to Sturgis next year for the motorcycle rally, and I'm going on the Bonne. It'll be a 3500 mile round trip from where I live in Central California.
(http://www.lawlessdesigns.com/Bonne&clyde.JPG)

Nice bikes Mike -- It brings back memories of the Triumphs "we" use to hotrod -- they were stretched to the limits LOL -- they vibrated so much, that it wasn't unusual to break the headlight filaments on our rides, LOL, always had to carry spares...

I'm all for the thought of bringing your Ghia back onto the street -- It is always fun for me just to jump in mine and taking a quick trip to the market

Mike if you go dual disc, can I suggest the smaller 180mm/7.25- 3puck discs?
Even at 7.25 the 4pucks are very heavy, and are hard on synchros.
Even better would be 6" discs!
Congrats on the series!

Hey thanks Dave!

Can those be used with the 200mm pressure plate and floater?

Mike I think you will need the floater to match the smaller discs.
I made my own, and the FW to suit,
but I originally used a stock FW that had surface to suit 180 discs.(late Aussie 1300 beetles had 12v FW with 180 clutch)
but likely McLeod does them for the smaller discs anyhow.
Pretty sure the hats are universal, but best get that info from the source.

If RLR had 3puck discs for their rev six that would be ideal.
The sintered iron material is too inconsistent in my book,
both thru heat range and maintenance....plus HEAVY!