The Cal-look Lounge

As the drag racing season 2013 is starting soon,
I just rebuilt my race engine,
here are some pix:

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Rod bearings were changed from Chevy CB610P to Buick CB745P


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In order to use the CB745P you have to narrow and champfer it slightly


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The Chevy CB610P


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You can see the gained bearing surface of the CB745P


MeXX

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New billet seamees cylinders were milled


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fins were milled


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liners installed


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notches for the main bolts


MeXX

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chambers were modified slightly


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seamees beryllium valve seats got a fresh 3- angle valve job


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Mainley valves installed 2.10" inlet and 1.625" exhaust


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K-motion K1100 springs were set to 2.00 installations height


MeXX

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Parts ready for assembly



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Titanium head studs installed



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Scat 90mm crank Pauter 6.0 Chevy rods.



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Rod bearings CB745P were coated


MeXX

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The pin for the first main bearing didn't fit the bearing and had to be modified (otherwise it would be a short season)



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As I don't thrust these crappy hardware washers and bolts I have modified the cam gear for ARP PRO bolts



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Crank installed, coated lifters installed



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Cam lube applied to the lifters, coated cam bearings installed


MeXX

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The cylinders were diamant honed to 800 grid


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Total Seal Quick seal was applied and for assembly Tolal Seal Assemly lube was used



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Pistons are custom CP X box design and got fresh coating



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Wrist pins are CP 9310 with .20 wall, Del West 9310 .15 wall DLC coated (99g)  and PPP Titanium DLC coated with steel wear caps (75g) which I used


MeXX

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Pistons installed



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Slipper skirt close up



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Heads ready for assembly



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Long block assembly finished.


MeXX

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Front cover and oil pump parts



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Oil pump is a modified 38mm Revmaster with integrated oil pressure regulator



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New bigger oil sump (8 liter), suction line is #12



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If can be opened for cleaning, the top cover got window mill for reducing weight


MeXX

As of the 90mm stroke I wanted to keep the PRM relatively low and the FK 47 with 1.5 rockers resulting in .628 lift and 278° @ .050
makes over 300 HP below 7000 possible and is easy on the parts.

PS. V2.0 is under construction already  ;D ;D ;D


MeXX

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Front cover and oil sump installed



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Oil sump with #12 Goodridge suction line



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suction line close up

 


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Bracket helps to carry the weight of the sump


MeXX

A FK47 is never easy on the parts but I see your points.

Looking good!

It's always a tough live for parts in a racing mill, but it can even get tougher.......


MeXX

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Jesel MoHawk 1.5 Rockers installed on the right side




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Jesel MoHawk 1.5 Rockers installed on the left side



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Sheet metal valve cover in place.



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maximum contact surface of the billet cylinders resulting in minimum clearances of the main bolt nuts.


MeXX

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mission completed



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.



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58mm super sucker



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deep throat  ;D


MeXX

are you home friday afternoon?

This is pure engine porn!!!

+1 just wet my self  ;D

The attention to detail and your craftmanship is over the top!!

Beautiful stuff Mexx!

Art!!!

gr
Wout

Just waouwwwww  :o :o :o

Just awesome :)

Your stuff is beautiful

How do you thing this bolt pattern compares?????

(http://i586.photobucket.com/albums/ss306/Fiatdude/photobucket-7277-1339028168504.jpg)

disgusting mexx!!! ;D

Mexx, beautiful work, a question? what is the press fit of the liners in the siamese fins, as it 'looks' like the liner makes the seal at the head and the fins make the seal at the case, or is the liner stepped at the case end.

Hi

The interference between the liner and the seamees cylinder is .03 mm there is a step of 1mm on the head side, if it was on the case side there would be very little material between the liners forcing them to get out of round. Because of the little interference it is possible to change the liners easily by heating up the cylinders.


MeXX

amazing engine!

did you coat your self? which coating went on the lifters? was it just the faces or the sides too?

not tempted to get your springs DFL coated also?

Hi Andy

Yep coating is done by myself ;
It's DFL; and its only on bearing, pistons skirts and oil pump housing.
On lifters face and cam lobes for break in only, because it doesn't last for very long.

On the springs it makes no sens for me because I would never ever sand blast springs so it won't last long enough.
But for the future I will use micro polished PSI springs (awesome stuff).

So hey keep on coatin' ...... ;D

MeXX

thanks for sharing this amazing project and pictures!  ;D

Hi MeXX

Cool I've dabbled in DFL too, do you blast your cam and lifters first as well yeah? I was thinking about that... Encase it would effect the hardening or something? Would have thought the sides would be good to do?
Techline said you don't need to blast them, just soak in acetone but I tried this on some used doubles and it didn't bond well...
I've done all sorts for my build, drysump pump case and gears, bearings, crankshaft, rocker shafts, feet and cups, cam gears ect...

They make a coating for barrels that you buff on too....

Wether it makes a differance who knows but I think it will :) tests back that up too so must be something in it.

Enjoying seeing this build, great to see the level of detail in it!

Thanks

Andy

Hi

Here are some updates:

As after a broken crank I had to wait for replacement; I made some minor changes.

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"Luckily" the crank broke during the burnout and I was able to feel that something was going wrong switching off the engine and saving allot of other parts.

MeXX

As I wanted to raise the compression ratio from 12.2 to 13.8 it was necessary to machine valve pockets into the pistons.

Modeling clay was use to see the "finger print" of the valves:
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By cutting the clay you can see the clearance between valves and piston:
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2.5mm deep pockets were machine:
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MeXX

The valve springs K-Motion K1100 were changed to state of the art micro polished PSI springs.
The K-Motion titanium retainers were changed to Del West tool spring retainers.
The K-Motion steel locks were changed to Del West titanium locks.

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Check out how thin the new tool steel retainers are  :o
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MeXX

Thanks to Thorsten Pieper I was able to test his new tool steel lifters.

They weight only 56g and need no fancy break in procedures so you can change the cam without changing the lifters.


thanx Thorsten

MeXX

thanks for sharing all your info and pictures, really nice to be involved!  ;D :D

Those retainers are nice! Top guys are now using mostly the tool steels.

I thought you were roller set up on this motor? Or are the TPs for a back up motor?

Mexx... Have to say your engine is a work of art! It really is beautiful. Shame about the crank breakage. Any ideas as to why it broke? Does the grain structure of the material give any clues?
Regards, Matt

Hi Shag

To keep it easier for the valve train my engine is still flat tappert setup.
But V2 season 2014 will be a roller setup.

MeXX

Are you using a chilled iron or steel billet cam?

Hi Shag

I'm runnin' a chilled iron engle FK 47 that you can buy everywhere, combined with Thorsten Pieper Tool Steel Lifters.

MeXX

Hallo MeXX,

hab Dir eine PN geschickt.

Gruß Stefan

Bad Idea.

So everytime the NOS kicks in the fatal result is another meltdown.

Dependant on the amount of N2O/fuel and ignition retard, of course.

MeXX, how much retard do you dial on the gas? Also what "shot" are you putting in it? My motor has a 14:1 compression and nitrous, so am interested to know how you are approaching the same point- high compression and gas.

Thanks,

Jonny

Should mention I am using VP C23 fuel too  ;)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K-I3pdEiq0I&sns=fb  ;)

I believe the cam choice will have something to say. Mexx is using a FK47 which is a cam that will build cylinder pressure quite low down where the nitrous is most effiecent. In other words, it is cruicial that he control the ignition and fuel. I used a small nitrous shot with a FK46 and did not retard the ignition. It was ok up to 70ish hp. I later changed to a FK89 and (did not change the CR) and never experienced any issues no matter what. Roar (N2O) here on The Lounge used a 135 shot with his 12.8 CR engine.

-BB-

I broke my moldex one at 8000 revs on full boost in the same place. Which one are you replacing it with

Hi Mexx
Did you make your own Ti headstuds ?
If you didn't can I ask where they came from.
I'm in desperate need for some strong studs.

Thanks
Darren

Race ware studs are the strongest. ARP or Bugpack are also pretty strong. Tai must be an expansion thing?

Thanks for the info Shag.
LNengineering don't sell the air-cooled ARP kit any longer.
ARP directly don't stock/make it and want $1000 to $1600 to make a set.
Raceware are out of stock, 2-3 months wait for the next batch.
Pierside is next, hoping they have some raceware in stock.

Although I am curious about Ti studs and how they expand with heat.

Mexx. Some of your work, especially page 1 would not look out of place in an art gallery. Exceptional work !

Thanks
Darren 

Hi

As there are no races the next few weeks I found time to post the 2014 upgrades.
The new mill is V1.2 its basically the old engine with flat tappert FK 47 cam & Thorsten Pieper Tool Steel lifters
but with new 7-bolt Billet Cylinder housings and new Billet Heads.

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Heads ready 4 assembly


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to keep the interference between barrel and cylinderhousings right they were measured on a Zeiss Duramax


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Zeiss Duramax screenshot


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7th stud closeup



So long MeXX

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Cylinder ready for honing


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three step honing on a sunnen hone machine


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honing finished

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Thanx to CP-Carrillo I got shorter rod bolts so notching the barrels is not necessary anymore.


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new short bolt vs old traditional design


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Rods an pistons assembled


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Cylinder assembled

MeXX

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Springs are Isky Tool Room with Xceldyne Titanium retainers
Titanium valves from Del West and Xceldyne
Beryllium bronze valve shims
Valve locks are Del West titanium
Del West lash caps

amazing work love it  :)

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Beautiful