The Cal-look Lounge

Hi

Need some pointers..

1915
Wedgeports
Almost 12-1
IDA's
86C + 1,4

Been using D7EA's but wondering if they are cold enough.

I need to remove fanshroud, oilcooler and tins to remove intakes so I can change plugs, so I can't just swap it out in a few minutes..

I have a new set of 7's and 8's. Which to put in?

We Run D8EAs in our 2332cc ProGas car with nearly 15 to 1 and C-12 race gas.  If you run C-12 or better race gas the D7EAs ought to be cold enough.  If you see any little black flecks on the white nose then the plugs are too hot.

Ron Barrett

I run 98octane

I think you still would be OK with the D7EA..  Just look for those black flecks I mentioned.  By the way is that 98 Research Octane, Motor Octane or Research + Motor divided by 2 (like they post on the pumps here in the US).

Ok, thanks!

Don't know the difference, but we get 98 octane on pump in Norway.

In Norway and Europe we use Research Octane Number. The 98 Ron should translate to a 95 ron+mon/2 value.

Think I will try a set of 8's..

it only takes 2 hours to change plugs  ;D

I have run NGK 7s with 10.5/1 and 80hp of nitrous on shell optimax  and also with 9/1 and 18lbs boost and saw no signs of detonation on the plugs, you really need to be able to access the plugs easier to be able to know for sure, a plug chop after a full pass gives so much information. I made some cylinder tins that the end that you access the plugs through was removable and this cuts the time needed but 75%, I am not sure if it would solve all your problems with those short manifolds or not though

cheers Richie

There is no chance in h**l to change plugs without taking the manifolds off :)

Ordered a set of both, and will try the 8's first to see how it feels

I made a special wrench out a modified socket, once I get the plugs loose I can undo them with my fingers.
And I also split the sheet metal like Richie says.

There is just no room. Not even with a turned down socket. The plugs will hit the manifold. I need to pull shroud, alternatorstand, cooler etc to remove sheetmetal then manifolds :)

In that direction :P

   If you do not mind modifying your body,  alot of people install removable windows in the quarter panel to gain access to the plugs easilly. With the windows removed you have a straigt shot at the plugs with an extension and socket. This is what I am talking about.

http://ebasic.easily.co.uk/01101C/024024/hipacshowto.html

                           Hope this helps, Mike McCarthy

Erlend, please take a picture in order to show people what your spark plug problem is. As I remember, your short manifolds dont allow you to use any tools and in order to get your manifolds off you need to strip your engine to a long block.. basically.

You are right :)

I will take a picture the next time I am in the garage.

Here is some photos from today. I installed a set of 8's and will try them out.

(http://www.raceinfo.no/temp/tn_image_85.jpg)

(http://www.raceinfo.no/temp/tn_image_86.jpg)

(http://www.raceinfo.no/temp/tn_image_87.jpg)

Pretty tight..

Wow Erland, that is tight!  :o Let us know how the D8EAs work out.  What gap do you normally run?

This set was set to .7mm.

Same for the 7's. Seemed to work fine, but I could be way out on the field! :D