The Cal-look Lounge

Well as a few of you will know I have just completed a few kilometers around Europe & The UK..... Actually 6250kms to be exact  ;)

And all in a STOCK Engine'd Bus (1600sp) now believe it or not I am actually quite happy with the Stock-ish motor
(it has a header & a single quiet pak)

I can sit at 110/115kph ALL DAY LONG even loaded up with parts etc and I even get 25+mpg

NOW BEFORE WE START..... I AM NOT SPLITTING THE CASE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
(and even if I HAVE to the only thing that will be done is lightening & balancing)

BUT.......

I am planning ALOT more trips like this and I want to "Improve" the stock motor..... I could use a bit more Torque for the big hills and a bit more Power is never a bad thing  ;)

I'd like to use as many STOCK/original VW parts as possible so repair/rebuild/breakdowns are cheaply & easily dealt with.....

I am thinking....

- Bosch "Blue" coil (Real German one!)
- Original type1 vacum style "1974 1600 dizzy" (and I want to stay with points & condenser!!!)
- A solex 34pict-3
- A Light Port & polish... and reshaping of the chambers
- a 3 angle vale job  :-\
- A small raise in CR.... Max 8.5:1  :-\
- Full Flow oil system with filter & Cooler.... Maybe remove the original cooler for better overall airflow  :-\
- Deep Sump 

I'd be interested in hearing your thoughts/experience with "Bus Motors"  :)

Kadrons, lower the deck to .040". I'd say you're on the right track.

I wanted to try and stay with a single carb....

Just for ease of repairs/spare when out on the open roads of europe.....

Zenith!

Yeah I was going to ask YOU about those.....  ;)

Got any good threads/links/info  ??? :)

Hehehehe! I read once on The S@mb@ where someone wrote, "How come all the old guys use Zenith's and never have any tuning issues?"

I consider myself VERY lucky, I met an old circuit racer a couple of weeks ago (he races a 1962 Anglia with a bombed 1600 Kent motor, all home made  :)), and he gave me one of his Bendix-Stromberg BOV-2 carbs out of his stash, he has 4 left. Never even had fuel in it, ever, brand new! 1 BBL, 180cfm flow (in 4BBL Holley speak), from experience I know this has better throttle response than a tweaked 34PICT, and with a custom centrebranch will equal twin Kads for power..........at least it did 15 years ago when I last did it!  :D I'm considering a Holley annular booster fitted up for smaller droplets and even better response, if I can make it work anyway.

A 34PICT on a CB centre section is excellent, but also don't forget the good old-fashioned Holley 350 on an isolated centre manifold, not a popular choice at all but one that works as well as the Zenith with "caveman" easy tuning. All the rest you listed should help too, they always did for me, but if you have a STOCK cam don't forget or rule out 1.4 rockers, easy 5% extra on top.

OOPS!!! Oh yeah, even more important, an SVDA dizzy, whether you get an expensive one from John "the Man" at Aircooled.net or modify one off a 1980s/1990s Mitsubishi Astron engine from the wrecker, beautiful to drive all round then.
Have fun!
 8)

Hmmmm........

The main idea here with this motor is "EASE OF REPAIR" this is why I want to use as many Stock VW/Bosch components as possible......so that repairs/parts/even rebuilds would not be a problem when I am out on the open roads of Europe  :)

YES I want a small increase in power but mainly TORQUE for the hills..... 

I know Porting/polishing the heads/manifold and increasing the CR will really help..... Its the smaller details I want some help with  :-\

Like....
- Would it be "Best" to use a Bosch 010 OR 009 OR the Stock Distributor  ???
- What EXACT CR would people advise  ???
- What is the best way to get TORQUE when porting/polishing the original SP heads  ???
- etc etc etc

I like baby "superstocker" motors, they drive just like OEM but with a larger grin.
6000km in an old Kombi sounds like a cool holiday......... ;)

More like WORK..... Collecting and delivering parts  :)

Thanks for the advice/hints/tips....
Its kinda what I was thinking, I just want it to be RELIABLE and easy to repair/rebuild/get parts for....

So any more advice guys  ??? What about an external cooler seeing as its a BUS  ???

Extra cooling will be a good idea, and I'd add full flow oiling and a deep sump too. You can't have too much clean fresh oil!

I'd go with twin carbs as well. I know you said you want to be able to find spares anywhere, but I don't think you'll ever have problems with the carbs, and certainly nothing that would be any different to problems with the stock one. The only things that I can see going wrong with twin carbs are to do with the linkage and cable or plugged jets.

Hey Neil.....

As for the oiling.... I had kinda planned what you suggest,

- Large Extra/external cooler
- Proper Filter
- Deep sump
- Proper oil lines/fittings ie NO JUBILEE CLIPS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

As for Carbs.... I do get what you and everyone says about dual carbs BUT I kinda like the ease/simplicity of the single, and the nice reliable VW Autochoke  ;)

One question I do have though.... What is better for TORQUE Long OR Short manifold  ??? :)

Twin carbs with small chokes on short manifolds with long stacks with the best valve+chamber job you can get for max port velocity (NB - not best outright flow) in order to get best throttle response and optimum fuel atomisation at part throttle openings...
With a properly curved SVDA dizzy and 1.4 rockers 😄
Oh and make sure you get ported vacuum from both sides (not just manifold vacuum) to the dizzy via an Alfa anti-pulse valve 😉

Hmmm lots to think about.....

I would prefer an original VW vacuum-advance Bosch 0 231 170 034 / VW 043-905-205 distributor from an old 1600DP motor - Anyone  ???

I can appreciate a single carb for its simplicity. I absolutely loved my Zenith/010 combo, drove like a stocker but with more power. Completely trouble free. I would keep the compression under 8.5:1, I don't think high ratio rockers will be of any benefit on single port heads. An extra oil cooler, thermostatically controlled, is never a bad idea. If you're pulling the heads off I would be tempted to install 87's, helps get your compression up and allows you to unshroud the valves a little more. I would run a Porsche 356/912 gen pulley to keep the heads/cylinders cool, it also helps the heater perform better.

when you get fed up with playing with single carb combs Lee I've got a pair of type 3 single port manifolds for sale ;)

Perfect Zach... You "Get It"  ;)

I was wondering about the ratio rockers..... Not really in keeping with this motor as I would have to modify the pushrods etc....

Like I said I want to keep it "simple" and just make the most of what I have,

Anyone have any tips/advice on thermostatically controlled oil cooler.... What are other out there using ??? ??? ???

 :)

I used a Mocal sandwich adapter between the filter and adapter. Makes for a cleaner installation.

I would be tempted to slip in a 74mm crank and leave the rest of the internals the same.  a little work on the heads, maybe go with a larger single carb.(believe GB ran a 1776 with a single carb in  bus engine)

Hmmmm interesting thought.......

I have heard there is a longer stroke "Stock" waterboxer/T25 crank that drops straight into a type1 case  :-\

Anyone have any info on this  ??? :)

The crank out of the DJ and MV 2.1L motors (2109 wasser) has a 76mm throw. It's not a drop-in though, the case needs machining for the T4 flywheel and you need to source a T4 flywheel also to suit, the Wasser flywheel is 215mm, which won't fit without "fiddling".......a fair bit! I've got one ready for my little motor, but I have to start from scratch anyway, so machining is already happening.
The 74mm 4140 cheapy crank for a stocker SP 1600 is easy though, and probably a lot cheaper than splitting then machining the case up for a Wasser crank.
+1 for Lids idea if you're going to split the cases.

Good afternoon everyone  8)

The 2.1 waterboxer crank is 76.4 mm stroke (I think), and you can get an 5 bolt T4 flywheel in 210mm diameter.

Apologies if I have crashed your thread Lee.

All the best,
Martin  :)

Unless the case needs going in to, don't get in to it. It's a slippery slope... Might as well bore it, might as well stroke it, would be a waste not to throw a cam in there ::) In fact, if the p/c are fine, re-use those as well. If not, you could easily go 87's, or if you want a little more meat in the cylinder, machine a set of thick wall 88's down to fit in the stock case register. That would give you 1679cc and 8:1 with .040" deck. With the Zenith feeding properly set up single ports, you'll have a grunty little motor that will pull your bus up any hill, and not be expensive to build or operate.

X2. Do a leak down test and let it decide your next steps. Trying to tune a worn out donkey is like fishing without a hook. Fun.. but not very effiecent. I`m runing a 1776ccm engine in my 1303 with Engle 100, original rockers, original carb that is opened up, German 009, heater boxes and a silencer from Vintage Speed. It produced 83.9hp and 144nm of torque on the JPM dyno. In my opinion that is just enough but nothing more. In a bus I would say it is not enough. I drove it close to 2000km just recently and that gave me an average of 0,69 l/mil.

-BB-

Thanks again guys.... I think Zach and Kalle are right,

I really don't want to split/machine the case etc.......

I think its all gonna be about the Heads/CR, But I will do a leak down test first....

I have just given her a little service after the trip and its running like a swiss watch so nothing will be happening for a while  ;) :)

Kalle´s build is quite nice, except for a "horrible" idle  ;) The W100 does that.

Monkiboy, IF you really want to do something to get better power AND stay as much as possible with stock parts I would recommend one of my std plus set ups. I posted one of my set ups here some time ago: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=435993&start=80  Scroll down to VW 1600 sgl port stage 2. It idles like a stock engine, it pulls like a stock engine, only harder and wider. - You get about 400 rpm more power window compared to a stock cammed sgl. port. Peak torque can be equalled with a stock cam and matching CR., but the torque curve will peak at about 2500 - 2700 dependant on set up and decent rapidly from there. The std plus kinda flattens out and keeps pulling for quite a while. Fuel consumption is like stock to about 10% better dependant on the weight of the boot. The Stage 3 pulls about 70 hp and a wider torque band. It also requires a freer flowing airfilter than stock. Unfortunately I have no dyno sheet available to show of that one right now.

As for the centermount Zenith´s with no problems, I do think that the main reason is that people generally accepted the fact that it had to be jetted rich to run well, thus had less than optimum fuel efficincy. As for the performance, well, we can - almost- equal that with a 34 mm Solex PDSIT3 today.
If someone would manufacture a decent intake manifold with REAL manifold preheat I think a lot of the fine tuning issues with the centermount Zenith would be obsolete.

Now this is more what I am talking about..... I need to do some reading!  :)

EDIT: please re-read the original post  ;) :)

Let me tell you a little story that might change your mind:

Back in the winter 2007/2008 I was approached by an elderly gentleman who was in the middle of restoring a 68 type 2 Westfalia camper. He had bought a 1600 sgl port longblock from a, in vintage circles, respected person in Germany, for A LOT of money. That´s where I came into the picture. He wanted me to assemble this engine to complete and start it up and do a basic adjustment on it. When he came and delivered the engineIi was quite surprised to see an engine that in my eyes was thrown together with a shovel. No details what so ever, and with cheapo gaskets or no gaskets at all. We discussed it a bit, and we soon aggreed that it had to be taken apart again for a proper assembly, or he would soon have had an oil dripping bastard hangin´out in the rear. During this conversation I persuaded him to let us do an upgrade on the engine, since I knew it was going into a heavy camper. And 46 horses are soon put to work, all of them in such a vehichle.
I took it apart and did a complete balance job, added a 2280 camshaft, corrected the deck height, massaged and detailed the heads, set CR to 8,3-1, used a US late 1600 "large" intake manifold with flange for a 34 mm Pict3 carb., and topped it off with my/TT´s Std plus bus muffler. The factory airfilter was relieved from its internals and converted to a paper element filter. We got power very close to the dyno sheet you have already seen.
Engine was delivered, the guy installed it and began to do some shorter trips around the country to test the vehichle out. After something like 3 or 4 weeks he called me one night. At this point he was VERY dissapointed with the power of the engine and practically accused me for ripping him off and performed an upgrade on his engine that did´nt do squat over stock. I was a bit on my heels as I knew the engine pulled the power I promised him, and all I could tell him was that this is what a 62 hp engine will do in such a heavy car.
Now later that summer he and his wife was going on tour along with another elderly couple in another Wesfalia bus, to Lapland, up through Norway, into Finland and down through Sweden. They were away for about 6 weeks as I recall.
Then one evenning in early septemper the phone rang. It turned out to be this same person, and I was like shit, what has happened now. But it turned out to be something completely different. He told me that they had been on this tour, and the car and engine had performed flawlessly (which I also expected it to) They had covered about 7500 km on the tour. And then it came. - He wanted to appologize for his negative attitude wrt the engines power before the tour. Because when they hit the moutains in Norway and further up, he immediately noticed that he was able to climb the hills somewhat easier compared to his friend who was running a bone stock 1600 dual port engine. On top of that he also noticed that he was driving about 1 km/l more in average than his friend did. So at this point he sort of realized that his engine actually DID produce the power he was promised. He just did´nt notice it when he was driving around "at home" because he had nothing to compare to, and the car had been sitting for so long that he had forgotten how a stock engine performed. Of course I accepted the appology.
In 2010 I did a performance upgrade on his friends bus too, as he "did´nt want to be left behind"  Now HE has the upper hand ;D

T

Ok I get what you are saying.......

There are a few ideas in there that I have also thought of.... Like the airfilter conversion  ;)

So I guess I could pop a cam in there  ;)

I have been wondering about the "Stock" oil cooler though..... I know that some say it can be better to remove the original (fit a block off plate) and use the earlier fanhousing for a better overall airflow  :-\
I do planning on fullflow/filter/external cooler......

Any thoughts on this ??? :)

And then we get on to EXHAUSTS  :-\

Whats everyones thoughts on this......  ??? ??? ???

IMHO a regular late model fan shroud (doghouse) will do the job nicely. A venturi ring would put the system on its max performance.

Also, on such engines I prefer a thermostatic controlled external cooler. It does not have to be big. A second stock cooler placed where it can get some wind will do great. I would ditch the large oil sump. It does not aid much in cooling and it will contribute to a somewhat longer warm up period. If you absolutely want an extra sump, use the CB 1,3 quart.
I like to modify the thermostats so they do not open until about 85 degrees C. to raise the oil temps a tad in the engine. I have found that the engines keep themselves more clean on the inside because they then can "burn" a lot more of the vapors condensed in the case.
A regular 1 3/8" header will do fine. If you want something else that is tucked away, but still supports power without being loud Turbo Thomas builds the std plus (or stock style) mufflers which are similar to the vintage, only a good deal quieter.

T

This is starting to get really interesting.....

Thanks for all the input Torben...... You really seem to get where I want to go with this motor, its all about those small simple changes that make a BIG difference  :)

It was mainly the diameter of the header I was concerned with as I want it to be "optimal" for this small cc.......
I am pretty happy with the noise level of the single quiet pak I am currently running and it looks pretty cool too  :)

As for the extra oil cooler..... I have founds a BMW motor bike item that is a little bigger than a stock cooler and it has nice mounts & proper outlets etc.......

Would you use a big "HP1" style filter or a smaller "Golf" style filter  ???

Any more info on the thermostat mods  ???

The golf style, actually WBX filter is large enough, since the engine doesnt rev that high. I hardly ever use HP1´s I use Mann 940/25 for normal, and 940/1 for high rpm engines.

I take the thermostat unit (the actual temperature unit) from a water thermostat and use instead of the delivered in Mocal sandwich thermostats. Older Fiat units have the right temperature window. Some Ford and most likely others too.

The motorcycle cooler sounds like its usable.

T

I also second the following;
- Stock doghouse fanshroud with stock oil cooler. Maybe added venturi ring.
- Alternator instead of generator (if it isn't already)
- Fullflow with cooler and thermostat. I've been satisfied with mocal sandwiches original thermostat but "hotter one" sounds also reasonable.
- Small oil sump
- Bumping up compression and small portwork
- 1.25 rockers, you can get the geometry close with added shims under the rocker shaft depending on the rockers. With cut-to-lenght alu pushrods and lash caps it would of course be netter but maybe not worth the hassle
- If your're ever driving close to 0 degrees celsius, single-tubed manifold heater with cheap aftermarket header may be problematic. At least the heater holes must be opened.
- Some good quality hideout muffler with resonance chamber muffler. Some of those cheaper ones are LOUD.
- Lambda sensor to get the jetting just right after modifications
...and a bit more aggressive cam of course :)

Sorry but I have a couple more questions  ::) ;) :)

- 1: What paper airfilter element did you use for the conversion you mentioned  ???
- 2: What exact mocal/termostat oil plate do you use  ???
- 3: Oil pump.... Stock  ??? Blueprinted  ???
- 4: Whats the MAXIMUM length/size of oil line adviceable in this kind of set up  ???
- 5: whats your choice of oil..... Grade/Brand  ???
- 6: Cam.... Make/type  ???

And any other hints and tips would be great  ;) :)

One more Thought...... What would a motor like this be like A-Framing a manx or even a bug   :o ???

I am not talking across europe but a few hundred km's  ;)

Any thoughts  ??? :)

- 1: What paper airfilter element did you use for the conversion you mentioned  ???
I do not remember. I browsed the Mann ai filter catalog and found one from a light truck that suited my needs
- 2: What exact mocal/termostat oil plate do you use  ???
Like this: http://www.csp-shop.de/cgi-bin/cshop2/front/shop_main.cgi?func=det&wkid=25185622571&rub1=Engine&rub2=Oil%20System%2COil%20Cooling&artnr=12553a&pn=0&sort=0&all=
- 3: Oil pump.... Stock  ??? Blueprinted  ???
Blueprinted 26 mm.
- 4: Whats the MAXIMUM length/size of oil line adviceable in this kind of set up  ???
Theoretical you can go all the way to the front and back, as long as you use lines and fittings with sufficient square. I have done it several times on beetles (with a filter pump and the Mocal. But i consider this maximum length.)
- 5: whats your choice of oil..... Grade/Brand  ???
- 6: Cam.... Make/type  ???
For these types of engines I like CB cams over most anything else. They have a variety of cams so I can choose exactly the behaviure I want. (I have done my share of trial and error in the matter)

And any other hints and tips would be great  ;) :)

A framing a beetle or a buggy behind the bus wohnt be worse than haulin´a trailer. The engine will be working 90-100% of its capabilities all of the time, so you should keep an eye on oil and especially head temps. Apart from that, no problem.

THANKYOU VERY MUCH DUDE! ;D

You have been VERY helpfull on this thread and you really seem to get what I am trying to do.....

One question you did miss though.... What oil Grade/Brand do you like to use on these type of motors  ???

Well. I´m a big fan of Brad Penn. That´s why I sell it too ;-)
15w/40 is my preferred viscosity for street engines, unless most of the driving is done south of the Alps.
There are other brands that work well too, but the BP is about the best I have come across.

In the cheaper end I have found that Shell Rimula 15w/40 R3 or R4 along with a shot of ZDDPlus does the job quite well too. But it doesnt beat the BP in our old engines though.

T

PS. I take it that you are located in GB. If that is the case you have a brand named Morris almost in your back yard. This Morris oil has proven very good in both lubricating and especially heat dissapation. There ia an SAE 30 Classic and also a 15w/50 Classic to choose from.

Cool and interesting thread Lee!! :)

I too am in the process of building a "super stock" singe port engine and really like the simplicity of using one carb.
Does anyone have any kind of experience with a bug spray setup? They are relatively cheap and, imho, looks alot nicer than the stock carb.

I'm actually based in norway :)

I have been using the "Classic" SAE30 for a while and I found it worked really well, I was just interested in the types of oil an experienced builder like your self use,

Thanks again for all the input  :)

We have Joe Gibbs HR-3 Full Synthetic 15W-50 on stock in Oslo.
Quality oil with high level of Zinc Dithio Phosphate.
Same oil that is labeled Joe Gibbs DT 50 - Air Cooled High Zinc Synthetic 15W50, in the States
How would that oil fit this engine?

Hmmmm I think I'll stay with the SAE30 for now as I have used it for a while.....

Might make the swap after the "Re-build"  :)

That oil works VERY well in type 4 engines. Whether there are the same advantages in type 1 engines I do not know. Theoretically it should be about the same.

T

I do have just ONE more question..... So thanks in advance  ;)

I have been wonder how people would go about plumbing all this oil system..... With a filter, the Thermo plate and a extra cooler  ???

By this I really mean where does the oil go first after it exits the pump......

To the filter

T

Right again I know this is probably silly but I want to be 100% sure......

So it goes from the pump to the filter and then back to the case and the other two outlets on the sandwich plate are plumbed to the cooler..... Right?

Its just that I've never used the sandwich plate type set up before and I want to do it right  ;) :)

That's how it work yes.

On my car
(http://www.cal-look.nl/Gallery/albums/userpics/10013/DSC01770.JPG)

Cool I just wanted to be 100% sure  ;) :)

I have been having one more thought about this kind of motor.....

Would it be more "Efficient" to run an Electric Fuel Pump  ??? ??? ??? I have had a few problems over the years with "Stock" mechanical pumps  :-\

i had a 2276 with an FK8, 48dells, well over 6800 rpms, stock fuel pump (original and newer repp), no issues. i also used a electric pump and the only benefit from the later is that the engine doesn't need to 'fill up' on fuel first if it stays still for a longer time.

Yeah I know there are good for most situations and the only reason I asked is because "Fuel Pumps" have been the cause of a couple of breakdowns for me..... Just thinking out loud really  :)

I have also been wondering what was ment by this Torben  ???

" if someone would manufacture a decent intake manifold with REAL manifold preheat"

Can you describe the idea Single carb manifold please  :)

drop me a pm  :)

The comment was primarily  in relation to the centermount NDIX carb. But in general, one of the problems with centermount carburettors, stock, Bugspray, Progressive, NDIX or IDF are that the manifold preheat is insufficient to our climate. Some time ago I was visiting Art Traen (ACE) and John Connolly (ACN)  Especially Art and his crew have a vast knowledge in how to make carburettors work in the most weired set ups, limited induction race classes and of course street engines too.  (But John aint lost out the back of a wagon either) We discussed many things, among that stock carb improvements, (That was about the only subject where I was able to teach them something  ::) Anyway Art taught me a few things, and verified some other issues that I had been puzzling with. And now where the Kadron carbs are getting obsolete, some of this knowledge may come in handy as some people just do not like, cannot work with or simply do not want multiple throat carburettors.

In fact, due to this visit I am now able to make a center mount IDF work on a VW engine. Something I for one have been unable to for 20 years. And like I menthioned above, decent/correct/sufficient manifold heating is on of the steps to make it work properly.

T
PS. Art has sold the VW part of his business to Colton and his brother and is now named Blackline Racing. Just to clear up any misunderstandings.

Hmmmm interesting.....

I'll be honest one of the reasons I like the single solex is due to the VERY efficient "Auto-choke"..... I know type3's have dual carbs and an auto choke so I have been thinking alot more about these carbs/set-ups

Which is why I bumped this thread..... Any thoughts???

http://cal-look.no/lounge/index.php/topic,13878.0.html

There are also the 34 mm Solex that CB sells. It is originally the carbs used on the SP1. They work quite well, but it takes a little trial and error to get the cold start enrichment to work properly. They come with 22 mm venturies, so that is the first point of attention. Stock 32 and bus 34mm Solex venturies fit right in, so an old worn out set of those can easily act as part locator. They can handle up to 28 mm venturies and are good for just over 90 hp when they are exploited 100% Most will hit the wall around 85 hp.
The linkage is, - well, its there, and it works, but it is kinda wimpy and one of the things I like to replace with someting better. They are slightly less sensetive to needing stacks compared to the stock 32´s (Dont ask me why, it just is so) But they still mix better when a 30-60 mm stack is added, especially on the sgl. port manifolds, most likely because these manifolds are SHORT! I´m sure if one manufactured longer ones they would act about as with dual port maniflds.

In short, I like them, and have them on the shelf, because I feel that it is a nice little set of carbs for very decent money. Dual carbs and a decent 4-1 header WILL always be the easy route to the first 15ish hp. After that you still need to dig into the engine to gain both torque and power.

T

Again thanks for the input..... Superb as always, I know I "should" go with twin carbs but.....  :-\

I did want to ask if you have a link to a cam that you like to use or maybe just the Spec's  ??? Does JPM do one for this kinda motor  ???

Again thanks in advance.... You have been VERY informative  :)

Just go to CB´s website, or order it from me  ;)

i understand. - i find it fun to make power with these set ups, especially because everyone else cries "dual carbs" before I even get started.

T

I find it fun too. I just love the look of confusion on peoples faces when they see a single carb under the engine lid after a run........ ;D

I tried to get the exact cam I wanted for this style of motor, and ended up going with a custom grind that is within 3 degrees at .050" of what I wanted. The specs you may be interested in perhaps, considering it's for this type of motor?

==========
Here's what I think would be the perfect cam for what you're doing. Excellent throttle response and relatively smooth idle, but still a heathy sound. It's a bit bigger than what you originally wanted, but I think yuo'd be really happy with this combo:



Part Number:  CUSTOM
 
Grind Number:  270-64F
 
Intake Duration (gross):  270
 
Exhaust Duration (gross):  264
 
Intake Duration (.050”):  234
 
Exhaust Duration (.050”):  228
 
Intake Valve Lift*:  .462" (.330" lobe)
 
Exhaust Valve Lift*:  .434" (.310" lobe)
 
Lobe Separation:  111
 
Intake Valve Lash:  .004"
 
Exhaust Valve Lash:   .006"
 
RPM Range:
 1800-4500+
 
*Based on 1.4 Rocker Arm Ratio 
 

$115 custom ground to order.

 
Kevin Cantrell
Sales & Engineering
Schneider Racing Cams
619-297-0227===========

Might be worth a try maybe Torben, you'll have your next engine built a LONG time before I finish mine! lol

Just a thought... Would it be possible for you to "Prep" a pair of 1600sp heads (ports/valve seats/chambers/flycut/etc) for this kind of motor  ???

Would you need MY heads or do you have "Stock" of heads  ???

It would be nice to buy pair of properly Prepared/machined/ready to go heads...... oh and a Cam  ;)

Modrod, the cam specs doesnt look bad at all. Only one way to tell whether the cam is good or average. Get it out and test it. I wouldnt have ground it on so wide LC unless I was chasing fuel efficiency. But that´s me.

Sure I can make you a set of heads. I know I have a set on the shelf, but I do not remember the condition they are in, apart from that they have been put aside for a later rebuild.
Cam no problem.

T

Cool I will drop you a PM soon once a finally decide what I actually want to do.....

Hmmmm Lots to think about  ::) :D ;) :)

like where do like to put the oil temp sensor OR do you like the "dipstick" style sensor  :-\ ??? ;) :)

Just install it along with the oil prssure switch. It will show a couple of degrees low, but it will not be affected from header temperature or excessive cooling as it will in many other locations.

T

Thanks again  :)

What type pf filter is that Jesse  ??? :)

K&N High performance.

I am guessin this has a "Replaceable" filter element  :-\ ???

No it is a normal replacement filter.

ok cool  :)

I have a jaycee filter that you can wash out

Hi Guys,

Today I went to the dyno with a customers '61 beetle, the engine I've made is a 1679cc single port type 1 engine.
After doing some magic with the jetting and ignition it went from 90Hp/150Nm to 101.5Hp/157Nm.
Have a nice evening! ;D

Cheers Christoph

Hmmm interesting  :)

Hi Christoph

how much head work did you do...
do you have some pictures of it..

Hey Monkiboy, Torben.
Here's the cam specs I ordered from Schneider Cams, and yes I went for a wide LSA to chase economy and a stock idle with a 1BBL centremount (although I will probably run it 2*adv), a 108deg would be more usual.
Almost perfect for a "mild improved" Single Port motor, so I thought I would share the cam number and specs.
Think W100 top end with a "cheater" cam mid-range.........or at least it should I hope!  :D

(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc458/MODNROD/VW/schneidercams003_zps8e778519.jpg) (http://s1212.photobucket.com/user/MODNROD/media/VW/schneidercams003_zps8e778519.jpg.html)

really nice achievement with the single port engine Christohpe. can you share more specs or can they already be found somewhere?

Hi guys,

All the info can be found on my blog or website, just scroll down....or check archive 09/2011 and you can follow the build ;)

Cheers,

Christoph

http://proformance.skynetblogs.be/

http://www.proformance-belgium.com/

Thanks Nicolas! ;D

Well I have been thinking and a 2165 seem li,e a much better idea.....