The Cal-look Lounge

Trying to find out what the type 4 main into a type 1 line bore adaptor bearing actually is ? Anybody know . Part no's etc .

It's a modified/narrowed BMW piece.
Not sure of the Beemer engine model ...
TxT

these are the ones I have been using:

http://www.precisionintl.com/Stock.aspx?Code=EB4768M7000GY&EID=327
 The thrust will have to be sorted too,
and for this I machine the case for a To#¤ta 3RZ thrust washer set.

Thanks . The case would just need cutting for the bearing tangs with those then ?  Guessing that's a centre thrust setup .

On my last engine i modyfied the original BMW thrust bearing too . works nice and you can only change the inner bearing for freshnup

Udo

Which thrust bearing was used ? What mods did you have to do ?

Looks like this , original BMW bearing cut to the right size and the thrust is bolted to the case . but is expensive

Udo

Is this one complete set of bearings with only the thrust bearing modified ? Guessing it still uses the standard T1 small nose bearing ?

Hi Danny

it does use the vw bearing on the nose, all the BMW bearings are modified/narrowed, that isn't affected by what you do for thrust

cheers Richie

Cheers Richie , clears that up. Is this the better way to go in terms of bearings etc ?

Yep, works real good, bearing quality is 100 times better, only issue is there are no oversize bearings available for the outsize if the case ever needs align bore, but you can save it by going to T4 align bore and doing something similar with the type 4 center split bearing and using it in the main 3 bearing journals. I have built them both ways and have the thrust done for me, I have had center thrust, rear thrust and [double] thrust on both middle and rear/flywheel end for a real heavy clutch set up and they all worked real well.

I keep the modified narrowed bearings if ever you need any

cheers Richie

Does that set include the thrust bearings ? Pm me with a price please Richie.

No I only have the normal bearings as I don't use the BMW thrust bearing in my set ups

PM sent

cheers Richie

Who do you use for the machining ? Is centre thrust a better option than rear ?

I've got the BMW setup with the center thrust setup.
Shawn Geers did this one.
Sorry about the small pic.
(http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd150/Venomous-67/case4inch_zps655019e4.jpg) (http://s222.photobucket.com/user/Venomous-67/media/case4inch_zps655019e4.jpg.html)

Geers engineering, and the flywheel end now, there's some theories as to why the center is flawed which make sense to me

cheers Richie

Here's another method to use BMW bearings that does not require case machining. It does however, require manufacturing thrust inserts to fit, and I've been using slotted spring pins to retain them. Once the crank is in, there's no where for them to go. I've been running this set up for the last several years. I did this because I didn't want to send my case down to southern california to get the machining done. The thrust inserts seem to average about .092" thick with will give .006 to .010" thrust clearance.

Personally, I like Udo's method. When you buy a complete set of bearings for the 530 BMW M30 engine, you get seven bearings. One is a thrust. Make a fixture to hold the bearing so that you can cut the thrust sides off and attach those to the case with small screws or even pins.
Below is a pic of mine with bronze inserts

http://lawlessdesigns.com/thrust3.jpg

I do not like the center thrust , the case si stressed enough with the bending of the crank so do not make other wear to it.
I never made a complete price for a set of all bearings . and you must make shure you can drill the holes and threads for the screws
Mikes is also a nice method

Udo

I do the same on mine with the bronze rear bearings. Tapping the small holes is a pain in the but!! Pins should be fine but I feel if there is any thrust wear the grit can get in between the bearing and the case and possibly push out the bearing closing up the end play. I'm just paranoid I guess. Mikes has been fine.
Ps: I don't like the center thrust either. Flex Problems for both the crank and the case.

Greetings to all. Hey Mike, the ID of the insert seems a little bigger than the bearing, is this correct? Thanks in advance.

Yes it is. Only slightly larger. And when you do it this way, you have to bevel it for crank radius clearance. If you make the insert ID the same or slightly larger than the OD of the bearing, you only have a couple millimeters of contact at the crank thrust. That's why I did mine the way I did. It took some time consuming finish work, but I ended up the maximum surface area for contact.

Thanks Mike.

How are the notches being cut for the bearings tangs , woodruff cutter in a horizontal borer ?

Careful application of a flat file on edge

Hi Mike, question, Are the holes for the pins or screws thru holes or you have to make them from the inside and out. Don't have a case in front of me, mayby there is an oil passage in between. thank you.

Cheers Mike

I did not make mine "thru holes"

I used a tiny right angle drill adpater for a dremel. For 1/8" spring pins, all that is needed is to drill the hole about .430 deep and use a 1/2" long spring pin. I made up a drilling fixture and I used a small set collar on the drill. A bit of work for a one shot shot deal, but for me it has paid off since I have done about a half dozen cases over the past few years, and not all were mine.

If I were going to tap the holes holes for screws (6-32 is a good size), I think I would make another fixture with the same hole pattern to keep the tap straight. And definitely use a bottoming tap to finish threading the hole

Disclaimer:
Not everyone can or should do this. It requires uncommon common sense, a high level of skill with tools, extreme patience, and the willingness to accept that you just may screw up a $600 crank case if you botch it.
That, my friends, is the basis of a good hot rodder. Some people are way better off paying to have it done.

True that Mike!

Thanks Mike.