The Cal-look Lounge

While reading the what would you build engine thread, it makes me thinking about valvetrain. > I'm not an engine builder or a racer or somebody with lot's of experience in engine building, but I like to learn.

Vince build an engine with beehive springs from a Ford V8 engine with some good results and I recently saw an ads for a newer conical springs design. Less mass, more easy on the valve train etc etc.

What do you think about using those springs for a daily driver or an engine with a cam on the edge between using single or dual springs, like a w110 or VZ14, and the benefits or compromises about a such setup?

With some light valve train components (Ti retainer, CB 72 grams lifters or better 56g TP tool steel lifters, alloy pushrods), you can stay with "conventional" single springs with those cams. For peace of mind you can jump with single OTEVA springs.

http://www.csp-shop.de/cgi-bin/cshop2/front/shop_main.cgi?func=det&wkid=854518393874&rub1=Engine&rub2=Valve%20Train%20%2F%20Cylinder%20Heads%2CValve%20Springs&artnr=24961a&pn=0&sort=0&all=

When you stay with VW size valve springs, you can go with light parts without going with expensive parts, CB/Bugpack Ti retainers are relatively cheap, OTEVA springs are 130€, Smith brothers alu pushrods are $90, you can keep std length valves etc etc...

Jump with beehive springs for harder cams as they are more expensive often need longer valves, BTW I'm very satisfied with my single beehives and FK44 cam  ;) ;D.

i saw a 1914cc engine a year ago that was the spare engine for a race car (6-12 hour races, like what close raced in) with an fk8 with 1.25's and single springs (no oteva's just the stronger bug pack or other brand you use anyway if you have to fit new single springs and or a slightly bigger cam like a w110)

no issues apart from some valve float when dumped from 4th gear back to 2nd… but it all worked and lived.