The Cal-look Lounge

So I've been working on building a reasonably high-performance single-port motor and I recently found out that one of the heads I was going to use is pretty screwed up. That got me to wondering if anybody on here knows of any ways to build some more performance oriented single-port heads, or of any that have been built. Just for reference, the motor I want to build is a 2054 (94x74) with a 110 cam, high-strength valve springs, solid rocker shafts, etc. Thanks for any help!

Your question is rather vague... can you be more specific...? Do you need 1 head or another set..? or are you asking if your single head can be saved..?

Essentially I just need a single head, but I was thinking that if I could find or make some large-valve single-port heads then I'll do that.

What do you plan on feeding this engine with?
IMO, this is a bad combo. The heads will be a massive bottleneck to the displacement and cam. Even if you use Kadrons (the largest single port carb), the 110 is still too big.

I understand the desire to do something different and/or save a buck, but just get some decent 40x35.5 dual ports and Weber/Dellorto 40's and be done with it. Don't reinvent the wheel.

Turbo the shit out of it! 120cfm x 1 bar of boost (15 psi) = 250 hp. 1 more bar and you have 350-370hp with the right combination of parts. With the right car - 9 second run!

Hehehehe!  ;D

Single ports work well on other Siamese port motors. Some of our Speedway racers are going back to the siamese port design after years and years of only using individual port heads, they need average power across the range under 6000rpm and Siamese set ups work better there.

Maybe VW single port heads work under different rules.  ;)

Dyno used to have a notch with a single-port motor in it.

I remember it was a pretty stout runner.

Essentially I just want to transfer the Kadrons off of my current motor, a 1641 single port, and being as this is still going to be my commuter, I'd love to keep the monster torque of a nicely built single port motor, as well as the reliability of the stronger heads.

Do it man. Don't listen to the naysayers. If I wanted to go fast I'd still have my To#¤ta TT Supra or the Evo, not a 50 yr old tractor.
I just happen to enjoy old tractors!  ;)

Your 2074 motor with a SP 32mm inlet will support well over 100HP at under 5000rpm if you want, all through stock valve sizes.
Have fun and enjoy it I rekn.

here's some ideas and inspiration for the OP

:)

i used a cheap Empi  ICT  manifold for single ports  welded a 40mm ID aluminum tube on top with a slight offset (outwardsand away from the shroud) 
and ported accordingly...  then  cut up a  new aluminu flanged based on the kadron carb base  and threaded for the studs :)

(http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/pp290/twinsohc/VW/sp002.jpg) (http://s420.photobucket.com/user/twinsohc/media/VW/sp002.jpg.html)

and then hacksawed/grinder the remaning  ict flang that is now midway  thru the  manifolds,    a lil cleaning with the grinder is still needed to make it look nice :)

(http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/pp290/twinsohc/VW/sp008.jpg) (http://s420.photobucket.com/user/twinsohc/media/VW/sp008.jpg.html)
the upside down view shows  some of the work done

(http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/pp290/twinsohc/VW/sp007.jpg) (http://s420.photobucket.com/user/twinsohc/media/VW/sp007.jpg.html)

and here  the  inside shot.. well almost inside LOL  ...it now has a nice taper  from 40mm ID  then adjusting gradually to 34mm *ict's old ID  and  the EMPI manifold itself tapers to the SP head's inlet flange type
(http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/pp290/twinsohc/VW/sp006.jpg) (http://s420.photobucket.com/user/twinsohc/media/VW/sp006.jpg.html)

i havnt run these yet.. but  am building something for it as we speak :)

Here was my first hot rod single port I built.  It was an experiment, but sure ran good.  It is a 69x88TW, 8.8cr, 10lbs flywheel, and a 40mm DCNF.  Its only downfall was the crazy rampy CB Bigfoot 2208 cam.  It made huge torque, but was super noisy, and I am sure I will need to rebuild the heads now after only 4000 miles.  It worked really good, was a blast to drive, and i couldn't get less then 20mpg with it no matter how hard I drove it.   
(http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1240122.jpg)


I just finished this 1915 single port.  I spent way too much time on the heads.  They are stock valves, but I did a ton of work to the intakes.  I filled the 6mm studs, and redrilled 8mm studs with the same spacing as the exhaust flanges.  I also filled the sealing ring recess, and then milled everything flat.  I don't use a gasket, just Motoseal.  The inlet hole is now 34mm.  I managed to get 123cfm @28" .450" with the manifolds and Kadrons bolted on. 

(http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1240121.jpg)


I also made the new manifolds to match the new pattern on the heads.  I used a mandrel bend and pie cut it the whole length so the manifolds tapper the whole way down.

(http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1240120.jpg)
 It was all a ton of work, and it won't hang with a similar dual port 1915, but I guess its different... It will be going in a buddies '62 11 window.  He wanted vintage looking I guess.  It does run good, and makes good power, but I am pretty sure I wont spend the time to do another SP to this degree. 

WOW! Nice numbers! Well done.

agree good numbers on the head!


and that manifold you did is super nice :)

can i have one LOL

Thanks guys,
 Like I told the guy who's getting it, I could have whipped up some half ass big valve dual port heads and made way more power in 1/3 the time.  But this is different, and it does have a bunch of power now that I am getting the tune closer.  It raps up really quick, and pulls hard, but goes flat about 5200rpm.  Kind of a short powerband.  I used a 218/119 cam, but should have stuck to around 237° @.050".

I think from now on I will limit the single ports to mild cam 1776's.  It will make a really good daily driver and hills cruiser, but not a hot rod. 

Brian

This is a 1776 single port with a set of "my" sgl port cylinderheads on and only 34 mm Solex carbs. Modified a little though.

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1194909.jpg

Yes, dont over do the cam. These enginese looove split cams.
Dont overdo the valve sizes and ports either. for a street engine 37,5 x 33 can work very well.

T

Interesting that the enlarged inlet dont really do much along with a stock intake valve. I get 120 CFM @ 0,500" and 25" with 31 mm port inlet and similar manifolds.
I did a set a couple of years ago with 37,5 intake valves and a D shaped port inlet, area wise i would say that it is most likely very close to a 34 mm Ø. With those heads I was able to get 135 CFM at 0,525" through welded and reshaped Kadron manifolds. Those heads reside on a 1955 type 1 which is Kadron fed. I have not yet persuaded the guy to come on the chassis dyno (Pity) But I´m positive that the engine pulls very close to 120 hp at 5grand. It is really strong for what it is.

I like messing with sgl ports too  ;D

I'd like to do a set of nice SP heads, maybe 39 x 33 on an 1750-ish motor. As said above, a really nice highway cruiser with a bit of snap.
Are some of the new castings OK ( http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/VOLKSWAGEN-CYLINDER-HEAD-SINGLE-PORT-NEW-COMPLETE-TYPE1-TYPE2-GHIA-311101353A-/251449732009?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a8b926ba9 ), or is it still a case of hunting for a good OEM survivor to rebuild?

Back when I was building the 1914 sgl. port bus engine I have told about earlier, we also tried the 39/33 mm valve combo, but LOST torque below 3000 rpm. and only gained a few poinies in the 4500 - 5300 rpm. area. That was one of the reasons we went back to stock valves and sacrificed upper end hp in favour of much better torque in the 1500 - 3000 rpm area. If it is for a larger displacement and or for a beetle, and you want to see what can be gained, it´s another story.

Thanks for all the advice, I've been doing some pondering and I am more than slightly intrigued by the idea of making some unique manifolds and using a split-duration can to offset the small intake ports, as well as some good polishing and grinding on the head, while keeping a stock valve size. To all of the single-port fettlers, what would you reccomend for valve train work? I'm thinking about ratio rockers, but if that would negatively impact the power/driveability then I'd rather stick with stock ones.

There is almost always a trade off. Single port heads need all the lift at the intake it can get (within reason) which typically means about 33-35% L/D to get enough time area to create a decent filling. On theother hand, high valve llift usually makes the lower end torque suffer a bit. (Up to about 2500 rpm) not major, but noticable. The trick is to figure out where you want the intake valve to close. That plays a key role in making torque, at the same time it affects the rpm power significantly too. nothing is easy  ::) You - could - also just colse your eyes and shot for the best solution you can find on paper. Usually its not that far off.

T

interesting thread!
I am currently running a 64x83 single port engine with dual 34 PCI. The heads are slightly ported and have stock valves. Cam is an Engle W110, which is way too much for the engine size
I would like to upgrade the displacement in the winter. Do you think 78x90,5 would work with that setup? I imagine a nice cruiser with plenty of torque ;-)

I have now put some miles on this 1915 SP.  It seems to have good power, and decent torque, but I went a little too big with the Web 218/119 cam.  It starts coming on a little late, and being a single port, it doesn't rev super high.  It has a little too short of a power band.  Running down the highway at speed its awesome, and it doesn't mind hills at all.  This is in my heavy '74 bug with a 3.88 trans. 

I think if I was going to build a super solid daily driver Single Port I would do the following.

-74x90.5 1904cc
-Heads in the 120cfm range, similar to what I did on the 1915cc. 
-For a cam, I think an FK41 on the intake w/1.25's, and a w100 w/1.1's on the exhaust would neat.  Not sure if that is even possible or would work, but the numbers seem decent too me. 
-I wish I could cut a 40mm IDF in half.  I am over the Kads.  Too many little issues, and not enough adjust-ability. 
-SDVA
-12.5 flywheel

Maybe I am wrong, but I just don't think anything over 1915cc will be that great with the SP heads.  The cylinders are just too big to be completely filled through the small shared opening without major reconstruction. 

Just my thoughts and experiences. 

Brian

I had this cam ground up for me, specially for use with the SP heads I had planned.
I'm still going to use it on my DP heads too, but it's still intake restricted as I'll be running a stock-looking intake. I rekn it will be a good all-rounder, although most will tell you to get it ground on 107 centres probably (I'll be installing this 2* adv from card specs).
Split duration, smooth lobes, made to work with 1.4s (on the card the exh valve lift should be .434").........

(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc458/MODNROD/VW/schneidercams003_zps8e778519.jpg) (http://s1212.photobucket.com/user/MODNROD/media/VW/schneidercams003_zps8e778519.jpg.html)

Contact:     http://schneidercams.com/solidliftercamshafts-18.aspx

I remember seeing some Formula Vee engines over here many years ago using half of an IDF. It looked crazy! Just bandsaw off the one half and leave the floatbowl intact!

(http://www.f3historic.com/uploads/Hockenheim_April_07_97_2.jpg) Half IDA picture from another thread here in cal-look.no/lounge.

That is awesome.  I will add it too my extensive list of someday projects. 

Biggest bummer is you would probably need to destroy a pair of perfectly good IDF's just to end up with a pair of single barrels slightly more tunable then kadron's.    :D

Brian

Brian, what is your problem with the Kads ?

I´m not sure about the cam choice you listed. When I did that 1914 bus engine, I had a fk41 with 1,3 rockers in it at first. - good power, but not enough lower to midrange torque. I also tried the TSC 10 on 108 LC. - Still lacked lower end torque. So I sort of went back to basics and tried a W100 with 1,25 rockers on intake, which was the best of the 3 options, with 104 hp and 165 Nm torque. Very driveable and decent idle quality.

Even for a lighter car I agree that the 218/119 does not have enough split to equal the head flow, resulting in a soggy bottom end. I am working on a 2110 cc single port engine for busses (only on paper as of now) with this engine I am debating whether to use a CB 2239 (close to a W100) also with 1,25 rockers on intake, or use a FK42/41 cam with 1,3 rockers. The split cam set up seems to like a 37,5/33 mm valve configuration. I have a dummy head that flows 139 cfm @ 0,550" and 25" and 110 cfm on exhaust at 0,450. Deduct 16% from intake air flow, and you have the hp potential with the FK42/41 cam. The 2239 configuration pulls a little earlier and stops a litle earlier.

T

Torben,
  I was mistaken about the size of the intake at the head.  I tore the engine down last night due to a cracked case, and measured the intake opening at 31.5mm. 

Sorry for the confusion and my fading memory. 

Brian

Thanks all for the advice and encouragement! I have decided on a balanced 1904 singe port with mostly stock heads, h.d. valve springs, roughly 8.5 compression with straight cut cam gears, lightened flywheel, balanced stock rods, Kadrons, etc. The only thing I need still is a cam that will let the motor breathe properly. I've looked into some of Engle's split-duration turbo cams and was wondering what you all would recommend for a good cam/rocker combo for a decently quick daily driver bug.

I think I have come to the conclusion that unless the engine has a bunch of displacement, stick with right at 236° @ .050". 

Torben is right about my cam choice in my 1915cc.  With the 242° @ .050 it is a touch soggy, and its got a pretty lumpy idle.  In my bug it could have used a little more bottom end.  We will see what the guy who is getting it thinks.  If it doesn't pull soon enough for him, I think I will swap the 218/119 for a w100 w/ 1.25's on the intake.

I would like to try something like a 236°/228° and .460" on the intake, .400" on the exhaust, in a 1776 w/kads.

found this cool thread again.
I didn`t have the time to update my single port engine so far but this winter it is going to happen!
I definitely want to use my Riechert dual 34 PCI setup. The heads are 1500 ccm single port heads with modified valve seats and modified stock valves (I think 35,5/32). Ports are opened to maximum possbile size when using the original copper sealing ring.

I am thinking about:
82x90,5
Engle W100 with 1,25 rockers
CR 9:1
Ahnendorp Customsport exhaust with 38 mm heaters
Shall I use bigger valves? Does that make sense at all with the 34 mm carbs? I think the venturies are currently 28mm.

Interesting combo for sure. I would suspect the best thing to do as far as a cam goes is to have the heads flow tested. Then you could also easily see if the higher lift from ratio rockers would help. I can't imagine larger valves being beneficial with the small 34mm carburetors but who knows, you'll have a lot of pull with that displacement.

Food for thought...Totally stock 1600, 167 TQ, 117 HP...9 PSI

Amazing power  :o

Joel I think you need to check your calibration. Sometings not right. ::)
Torben.

If you stay with the 28 mm venturies I do not see any significant gain by enlarging the intake. The only thing you are likely to measure will be slightly better power below approx 2500 rpm. maybe 2800 since the engine has the ability to get into max flow sooner.
Retard the cam to 107 intake LC. At least that´s what i would do.

T

Man, I almost forgot about this thread! I never did end up building a big SP motor, but I bought a 1915 longblock that we'd had sitting around our shop for a while, fitting/powdercoating some tin for it, and running EMPI 44 HPMX carbs on it... still though, makes me want to get my old 1641 SP torn back apart and gone through, partially because it was a beast of a little motor, and partially to figure out what the hell cam is in it. With the jetting done in the Kadrons, the damn thing pulled its nuts off, right until 5k rpm, and got 30 mpg doing 75 on the highway without overheating. The best time I ever got out of it at the track was an 18.4 something at around 67 mph, in my full body/full interior '67 bug at 6000 feet altitude. Once I go through it, it'll have the ratio rockers still on it but with a stock carb, for simplicity's sake. Then it'll just have to wait until I find a good car to turn into my hotrod, so it can go back in the red car.

 Lookin' Sweet  J.M.  nice numbers too..!! 

i'm also building a new single port engine.
90.5*74 -> 1904ccm
35.5/32 manley valves, ported heads, shortened intake valveguides
9.5:1 comp.
CB 2239 cam  CB lifters
Riechert 34 PCI carbs
single pack exhaust 38mm

hope it will be ready this year  ::)

Ya Torben, My Dyno IS a little tight(LOL)....funny thing, the single port with my kit makes almost 20 more LB/FT torque than the dual port...Hi Don! Thanks!

Where's that damn "like" button again?
 ;)

thanks for your reply Torben. I will buy an adjustable camhaft gear and set the cam to 108° lobe center.

Stevo_L: keep us updated regarding your engine!

@ everybody: what crankshaft and con rods would you choose for this kind of engine? I guess I don't have to buy the real expensive stuff for approximately 100hp...

I will do my best ;)

AA crankshaft and stock rods with new bushings and same weight.
Or AA crank with chevy journals and H-rods, fits a stock case with less modifications

my heads befor and after

my heads before and after
[attachment=3]
[attachment=4]

any news on your engine Stevo_L?

If been thinking about parts a bit.
I think I'll go for a CB performace 82 mm super race crank and super race rods with chevy journals.
I prefer 5,325 long rods so that the engine does not become to wide. I know longer rods would be nice as the ratio is only 1,65 but for the expected power output that should be alright.
Or what do you think?
Are Mahle 90,5 barrels and pistons worth the extra price compared to AA performance parts?
Can I use a new stock clutch or shall I go for something different?

best regards
Stefan

Hey
only small updates.
tapered guides are in, chamber bored 2,5mm down to get stock width (74mm crank stock rods) and CR bout 9.5:1
next step is to cut the seats but my cutters are down, need to get new ones. Neway would be fine but i have to find a dealer to order.
[attachment=1]
[attachment=2]

I had AA pistons and barrels in my old 2276, AA are also going in my new single port engine. cant say if the extra price is worth it  ???

82mm and 5.4 rods result in stock width, had it in my old 2276
with chevy journals you dont have to modify your case that much like with stock ones

dont know if the stock clutch is enough, i'm still thinking about what i should use  ???
a kennedy stage 1 will be more than enough i think

[attachment=1]
[attachment=2]

thanks for your answer.
heads are looking good!

Here's my commuter and daily driver set up. 1600 single port, ports cleaned up, stock cam, with A1 1-1/2" header ran 18.48 in my 63 bug.i

finally i received my neway valve seat cutters.
seats are on the outside of the valve, 1.5mm intake, 2mm exhaust.
heads are nearly done.
I only have to port the intake to match the manifolds and maybe cut the valves 30° on the lathe behind the seat.
and maybe open the cc around the intake valve, but then CR will be lower..   ::)

[attachment=1]
[attachment=2]

machined CC around the intake valve close tot the cylinderwall
will be smoothed out with the small grinder
[attachment=1]
[attachment=2]

Your chamber cut looks very nice, is it possible to see a picture of the tool which was used ?
Depending of your valve lift I would add 30 or 35 degree wide top cut to your seat work.

Pekka   

i used a 10mm milling cutter with a 5mm radius at the bottom
here you can see it. first test at an old head.
[attachment=1]
unfortunately i have no 30° or 35° cutter ;)
but there is also not much seat left at the top. I cut the seats to seal at the very outer side of the seat

for now i have the problem that my CCs are too small. only 43ccm
that will result as an CR to 10.4:1 (90.5x74, 1.2mm deck clearance)
i will open the CC around the exhaust valves too but not too close to the cylinderwall, because it will be too close to the spark plug
[attachment=2]

Dish the pistons.
T

Yes, while you've got the mill out, like mine in a bathtub shape to keep the squish bands intact.  ;)

I will mill around the exhaust and then we will see where the CR will be.
if it is still too high i will dish the pistons.

It was the same situation on my turbo. Here's a pic showing how far Steve went before dishing the pistons. Note he didn't go quite as far enshrouding the exhaust valve vs. the intake valve.

I have similar issues with my 2110 single port engine. CC is now 49,5 ccm after machining around the valves.
Originally I was aiming for 9:1 with 1,2 mm deck clearance. That results in a 58 ccm cumbustion chamber.
I see no chances to create such a large chamber in a stock head, or what do you think?
Which maximum deck clearance and compression rate would be aceeptable for a street engine with 95 octane fuel?
I am not sure if the AA performace stroker pistons have enough material to be dished. What minimum wall thickness should I keep?
Thanks a lot for your input.
(https://abload.de/img/20161118_175011ihssr.jpg)

Last set of AA "B's" I measured were right at .250" thick at the piston face. I have cut a 7cc dish I quite a few with no problems.  I built a fixture to hold them in the lathe. They center on the machined lip under the skirt, and I hold them on with a dummy wrist pin drilled and tapped and a single bolt through the base of the fixture. I make my dish no larger diameter then the chamber bowl to keep all the squish bands intact. You will have to do the math, but a .070" deep dish, the diameter just smaller then a stock chamber will usually be about 5-7cc.  Since you have a mill you can also do an oval shape.  This was a 7cc dish. I believe it was .050" deep.  Just make sure the dish doesn't extend pass the squish flats in the chamber.  I did this one with a radiused single point flycutter.
(http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1202991.jpg)

thanks!