The Cal-look Lounge

Hi,

i've got some budget to spend on my engine. aprox 8000 PLN ( 2k euros )
 I want as much as possible :)  and being serious .... What do You think would be the best way to improve my engine in this budget ?

What I've done so far:
1585 ccm ( ACD engine block with Type 4 lifters, and those are web cam lightened )
w100 cam
DRD 35,5x32 ported heads
full flow
IDF 40 carbs
Kennedy stage 2
merged 1 1/2 exhaust with fat boy

Any ideas ? :)

Thank You

Merry Christmas ;)

$2695.99 http://www.lowbugget.com/turbo_new_page_link.html

 I have never dealt with him but there are 26 pages of feedback on another site , decide for yourself before you send him your money.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=174119&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=sims&start=0

Make it a 1915.

AJ's Parts are OK -- I ran a lot of them on my Fiat -- I wouldn't think twice about getting his turbo kit -- sell the IDF's for the extra $$$ -- I would get a turbo from another source if you're gonna race it, I did run one of his Chinese turbos for a while, but they don't put up with a lot of abuse -- He took a beating when he was taking a ton of work in but didn't have the ability to get it back out the door -- But the other end of that is the Red Baron has ran his heads for years with very good results

How much are jpm's heads?

I do think a turbo setup would be a good way to be power and very tuneable in the future. Maybe something like this, speed shop header (or other) cb injection end castings and injectors, single throttle body, megasquirt ecu and thedubshop hidden crank setup, the fuel pump, filter and reg, and a turbo.

You might have to get a few parts used to keep in budget (I havnt added it up) but you wouldn't need a high spec megasquirt.

Sell you current exhaust, carbs, ignition to re gain some cash maybe....

Throw in a 78.4 crank while your at it, then also throw on a pair of 049 heads.

And wave the budget good bye!
A properly built 1915 will eat up that money, even if you do reuse a few parts, especially when you consider shipping costs.

His total budget

Hmmm, i think by just bolting them on there would be an increase but seriously under selling them with the cam and intake...

Turbo & Megasquirt

Well the plan is to make 1915 ccm. Any tested ways to do it right in this budget ?? I mean what is worth to do, what isn't ?? :)

Counterweight the crank if it isn't already. Engle 110-120 (or similar) cam, depending on if you want more low end or top end. Have the heads opened up to 40x35.5. 9-9.5:1 depending on cam. .040"-.060" deck, the tighter the better.

Valve sizes are fine for 58-6000rpm. Bump cam to 110 or VZ25, use best springs you can afford, along with solid shafts, real Porsche swivel feet, good pushrods. You can get away with  Kadrons too if you can find them cheaper, it WILL idle rougher with Kadrons, due to overlap. But they will work, esp. higher rpm. Going 40mm valve, along with portwork in front of them will move power (not add all around) up, way up. Be careful taking airspeed away with such a small engine. Have fun, I like budget-driven projects.

A good used Subaru motor...

Nitrous, 35bhp no problem

Wait til someone is selling their built motor and sell your motor to add to the budget.  ;D You can't build a fast motor for as little as you can buy someone elses....

save for another year and do it right the first time  ;)

That is exactly the sentence I didn't want to hear :D

yeah but till be much cheaper in the long run  ;)

so I've got 1915 ccm list.

Bigfoot Super Lift Cam ( my mechanic has wide choice of them. which would You recomend ?  )
Type 4 Webcam   lifters
straight cut cam gears   
piston and cylinders AA 94   
HD alu Bug Pack   Push Rods
CR ???? any sugestion ?
all balanced

next stage is to rework heads with 40x35,5 valves without splitting the block.

What do You think ?
   

I have to ask... What's the fascination with T4 lifters?

i brought those pushrods but thought they were terrible so didn't use them, the tips were all very different. i'd pick some others if possible?

I'd rather say ....frustration ...... I've got ACD block from 1600i EFI mexi beetle. Those block are made for type 4 lifters unfortunately

Oh. Learned something today...

I've never run one of those CB Bigfoots, and from glancing at some of them, I'd be careful. The specs make them out to be some pretty violent profiles. All kinds of lift at lobe, and not much spread between duration @ .050 and CB's advertised duration, which to me says "trouble" for the rest of your valvetrain. To track a profile like that you'll need some serious spring pressure, which is going to wear stuff out. Serious spring pressure is one thing to attain real high rpms but your combination doesn't lend itself to super high rpms. If you don't expect longevity then run it, but be ready for problems like pushrod ends getting pounded in, valve springs breaking/dying early, keeper grooves on valves going away (which means valves eventually run into pistons and stuff breaks), retainers pulling through, etc. Not my idea of a good time- lived through alot of those issues and that's how I learned.
Your compression should depend on cam profile you choose, carburetion, vehicle weight and body style, climate, fuel you plan to run, gearing, etc,

1915 runs good with mild heads and Engle 125, stock VW rockers on good solid shafts, 911 adjusters, good dual VW springs, 9.2:1 and 44IDF's. Almost a fool proof recipe for a fun, trouble-free and fast street motor. Don't go overboard on ports and huge valves or it will be a dog.

Jim

I agree with Jim on the Bigfoot cam.  I just tore down my last engine that used a CB Bigfoot 2208 cam.  It was only 236 @ .050", but .456" at the valve with stock rockers.  I used it in a hot rod 1679cc single port experiment w/a center mount DCNF.  I must say it rocked.  Huge torque from 1200-5500, but it was super noisy, even with aluminum push rods.  I ran dual springs just in preparation for the fast ramps.  After 3200 fun miles the guides are blown out, two intake seats are pounded into the head, and worst of all the lifter bores are way sloppy.  The lobes and lifters looked perfect.   It was all a sweep the floor experiment, so I am not bummed. 

The Bigfoot series seems like it would be an awesome Baja 1000 or short track cam where they wont put 3000m on it before a tear down.  In a street car it was pretty annoying, but pretty darn impressive for a small single port. 

Brian

thank You for advices :)
so which would be the best the best cam for this combination, which single reinforced spring could handle ? or shoud I prepere heads and go for double ones ??

Go dual springs. Even a mild Engle 110 with the heavier 40x35.5 valves should use dual springs.

 and if I'd stay with 35,5 x 32 ??

35.5x32 is ok with single springs, but it also depends on cam. There are many variables (and opinions), but if you stay under .450" valve lift and no more than 6k rpm good single springs can be used. For example an Engle 110 (.430" with stock 1.1:1 rockers) will pull to about 6200-6300 max if all other parts are up to the task. You do not want valve float from too little spring. You also do not want excessive spring pressure  that is hard on parts and raises oil temp.

Your carbs, exhaust size, and 1915cc displacement are better suited to the 40x35.5 heads. It will also allow a more aggressive cam to be fitted.

What about ported stock valve heads, dual springs, an FK42 and 1.25 rockers??

Similar .050" lift to a 110, but a little quicker ramp, and a little more lift. 

35.5mm intake valve is going to "peak out" at about 4800 rpm in 1915cc, and will run out of breath around 5300. For a Bus that would be alright, but for a hot street car it would be yawn city.
Using such a small valve in a displacement like this will actually NARROW your powerband. You're choking the cylinder off.

The 1915 (for street) works best with W120 or W125, depending on heads and where you want it to run. If you wanted to go super hot, the K8 with 1.4/1.5 and 48IDA Webers makes for a scary ride. The FK10 in 1915 is probably bordering on going too far. I helped with a 1915 with K10 and a set of high CR midget heads with 44 x 37 valves and it didn't get out of bed until 4500. Another 1915 we used same heads but an FK87 and it ran from 5500 to 9000. Not a good idea for a street car.

My vote is for Engle 120 or 125 or Web 110 or Web 109 with 1.1:1 rockers and 40mm valve