The Cal-look Lounge

Hello Cal-look Lounge.

I'd like to introduce "Lickity Split".  A 1950 split window that will hopefully live up to the name.  I've had this guy about 6 months and have mostly been focused on the chassis.  I intend to build it out with the body as-is, all 8 colors, and have some fun with it while getting all the systems nailed down.

(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8599/16423346747_48bf0f420b_z_d.jpg)

(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8583/16629947342_6a6a9a6f6d_z_d.jpg)

Pan work.  All brakes are plumbed, OldSpeed Wilwood kit in front, t3 drums in rear.  2 x 3/8" SS fuel lines.  Kafer-cup on crack, ready to be tied to a cage.

3" Narrowed torsion, short SAW axles, SAW adjustable spring plates, 28mm SAW bars, QA1 double adjustable shocks.  1" RLR trans raise.  15x8 Fuchs narrowed to 6-1/2" with 6w slicks

2" narrowed beam with original 4-1/2" Fuchs

(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8649/16443607340_3f731ab93f_z_d.jpg)

Hi and welcome hotstreetvw

Car and pan look great - especially slicks with white lettering  :D

What have you got planned for the engine ?

Cheers
Darren

That looks great! Any more shots of the work you've done on the rear end?

I have a 2275 w/ 48 dells built, which will go into the car ASAP; but the plan is a 101.6x88.  I've already got 4" bore JPM MS230 heads, but still collecting parts.

Shows only one fuel line installed w/ pressure test fitting for the air compressor.  Stock shock tower mounts are cut right above the body mount.  New shock mounts added.  I've also built out the inside of the body for mounts.  This body had already been hacked up for a later chassis.  "Kaferbar" is 1-5/8 .130wall DOM.
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8639/16450760818_9542cd4fde_z_d.jpg)

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7292/16450760798_4cffd6e1ae_z_d.jpg)

Trans installed.  3.88rp, all weddle race gears, 4.13, 2.46, 1.67, 1.22.  The pan is pretty much complete.

(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8668/16639505660_9afff15a68_z_d.jpg)

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7625/16826882875_6d6dbc1a20_z_d.jpg)

iPad does this stupid refresh thing so it makes loading multiple images at once a pain.
 (https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7610/16619568827_acf3378c7c_z_d.jpg)

I'm liking the look of this nice project

Thanks.  While the body has been off and the pan waiting for parts, I've slowly been knocking out all the critical rust repairs to make it safe.  The heater channel bottoms were toast along with the front body/pan bolt area.  Im about half way there.  I'm hoping to have the rest of the rust done in the next few weeks, then remount the body, wire it up and take it for a test drive in the neighborhood.

Couple pictures of the tank

-8 for vent and anti spill valve
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7284/16216656794_00a5b78230_z_d.jpg)

-10 outlet to the filter and pump (hopefully to help as a plenum), -6 return

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7653/16631694187_2194d1d8db_z_d.jpg)

Cool looking project

Thanks, I've been slowly knocking out the rust, what a PITA.

I have a semi-mild 2275 I purchased used, previous owner made 146hp to the wheels.  I swapped out the web 121/125 w/1.1 rockers for a FK45 and 1.4 Pauters, so maybe it will free up a few more ponies.  The plan is to run that engine this year while building something a little more wild.  The 2275 will eventually end up in my single cab.

I have been making decisions on the big motor.  I have a set of 4" MS230s and will be getting a TF-1 shortly.  I've been working with Todd on the specs.  Right now I'm leaning towards sucking it up and going with the Scat flanged.  Fast, reliable, cheap, choose two!

Proposed cam is a FK87/89 w/ 1.5 Pauters.
 
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7655/16714667689_45d6aab2b6_z_d.jpg)

Heater channel bottoms are finished.  Body is bolted back on the pan.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7640/16353386343_8f150e081f_z_d.jpg)

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7635/16973478665_db21aaef70_z_d.jpg)

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7641/16787274179_ecba2410f7_z_d.jpg)

Nice project.
The stance is spot on.
I hope you're putting a decent cage in it.
Better safe than sorry  ;)

Frank

A cage is indefinitely in my future.  I pulled the trigger on a 88mm Scat flanged, so the big motor will be a 2854cc.

Quick update.  I welded and ported my dell intakes to the AJ heads that are on my 2275.  The 3" up the intake is such a joke, so this should help the heads reach their full potential.  I think welded manifolds is one of those "secrets" that is expensive and time consuming, but pays dividends.  

Hopefully with this 2275 I can get the car in the 12s.  I don't think it will be too difficult with the close box and slicks.

Current specs
AS41 case
82mm CB crank
5.4" Scat I-beam rods
94mm Mahle P/Cs
FK45 w/ Pauter 1.4 rockers
9.5:1
Aircooled.net Aluminum pushrods
AJ heads, ports are similar in shape to ultra mags
1-5/8 merged, small flange
48 Dellortos, just freshened up by Blackline Racing in Utah


Here is one intake, ready for the car. So here's the thing about welding a boat load in the outsides, it caused the carb flange to open up; about 2mm.  So a bunch of welding in the middle to pull it back together, then surface the flange, carb slides on like typical.

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7634/16886042460_77945053ac_z_d.jpg)

I think you are absolutely right. It is time well spent to make sure your manifolds have the correct length and area to achieve your goal.

Looking good! We`re in the beginning of April and we still have some small patches of snow here and there. At the same time you are working on your car with your garage door open  :)

Looking forward to your next updates!

Best rgs
BB

Thanks.  We have been having beautiful weather recently.  We moved from east Texas to Denver last September and the winter here was a bit shocking.  I had not experience the winter and snow in a colder climate before.   Currently all our snow is gone, but I hear there is still a chance for more.

We are in a mad dash to have the car ready for some racing this season.  We will be firing up the 2275 this weekend which is very exciting.  Hopefully no troubles, but I really enjoy the engine side more than the rust repair  :-X

I did get the rest of the fuel system plumbed, I went with a Holley red and 0-4psi regulator.  I'll get pictures of that setup this weekend.

Well, she runs and drives.  I pulled it out onto the street for a quick turn around.  It nice not having to push it.  No pass front fender or door.  No seats, just a plastic parts box ;)

I need to sort out the wiring, currently half assed.

(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8814/17113527412_e366fc882c_o_d.jpg)

So much for embedding the video, igu

https://vimeo.com/124723687

I've been fighting fuel pressure but got it all figured out.  Upgraded to Teflon tipped 250 needles and seats.  Installed 42mm vents, VERY snappy now.

LM-2 garbage tach input, even with the potentiometer installed.  Blah.  I have a Mallory box I will install, Innovate ensured me the wideband would see the nice square wave from the CDI.

Currently getting the seating arrangements straightened out.  The seats are Recaro made from a 60s Porsche 912.  I wasn't happy with the width, the recliners nearly touched the tunnel and door panel.  The width would be a problem with a roll cage, no way for a door bar.  I have one seat completely narrowed (2") and the second in process.

Roll cage tubing is on order, I went mild steel, 1-5/8 .134 wall DOM.  I'll build seat mounts into the cage and ditch the stock sliders.  These seats were designed to slide "level".

(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8777/17322076739_7601e03087_z_d.jpg)

(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8686/17482027916_1378ea8a86_z_d.jpg)

Fits much better.

(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8718/17506262582_1f8f1df136_z_d.jpg)

Love this car! You gonna try to hit an MSVWRA race this year?

I will definitely be attending, the car on the other hand might not.  I haven't been making progress at the same pace I had been, and with adding the cage to the mix it will be very close.  My son started football this year and I have been coaching, so weekends are limited to working on Saturdays.

I'll keep at it and see where we land.

Very cool car 8)

Agreed, it looks absolutely bad ass. The mis-matched panels just make it look angry!

Thanks guys. This site has been a huge help in determining the direction to take the car.  There are a lot of very cool projects in the pages.

Keep those updates coming!😎

Had some fun today.  As I was pulling the car out of the garage I had the oil filter burst, creating a giant disaster in the garage, drive and street.  I guess I caught it early enough and it didn't damage the motor.  So today I made zero progress on the car since I spent all of it with the pressure washer.

I got a quote on covering the seats in leather.  All I can say is WOW, ridiculous money.  Any suggestions?

Hhmmmm.
Get a job as a broker?

OR

Keep all the different panels (I like them a lot too!) and then find some picnic rugs or blankets to drape over the seats until you've saved up enough money.
It'll match the outside perfectly.
8)

As a [retired :D] auto upholsterer, I can tell you that leather is extremely expensive. But, there are a lot of very high quality vinyls out there that would take someone like me to tell the difference. Massive price difference. The only things you get with leather are the smell, and the longevity (vinyl will last plenty long for a "play" car though). If you've got to have that leather smell but don't have the budget, do what nearly all of the OEM's do: leather on the actual seating surface, and a matching vinyl everywhere else.

Born in the 80s and already retired, explains why they charge so much!

Maybe you can tell me how far out of line this is.  $600 for "hide", $50/hr, but all in between $2500-$3000.  Two low back buckets, no head rest.

Loved the work, hated the business side of things, went back to school ;)

You might be able to get it all out of one hide, but it depends on the quality/size. One and a half to be safe. I agree that price is a bit stiff, but most people have no idea the skill and effort it takes to do a quality job. Maybe they priced it high because they didn't want the job, so shop around.

Finally finished the second seat.  Crappy weather here over the last few weeks.

Tubing for the cage will be here next week, I'm ready to get started.

(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5448/18019788922_3b8be4d570_z_d.jpg)

Temporary seat support.

(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5456/17835100458_ca362f15b5_z_d.jpg)

I spent some of the holiday working on the floor plates.  The NHRA rule book is a little unclear weather the cage tied into the rockers needs to be welded to a 6"x6"x.125" plate.  To me it reads the rocker (heater channel) needs to be reinforced with .125" plate,  but doesn't specify the size.  So, in a effort to insure I don't have to repeat this process, I'll do both.

This plate gives the 6"x6"x.125" plate bolted to the pan, plus plate welded up the heater channel.  This will make the cage a permanent addition to the body, but fully supported by the pan.

I bent the plate using a press brake I built last year.  The main hoop plates will get the same treatment, but with an extra step into the seat channel of the pan.

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7774/17916989639_644d46df26_z_d.jpg)

This is exactly how my plates are done and I have not received any complaints from the tech inspectors. Mine are also the same size. Please be careful when you weld the plates closest to the A-pillars. If you use a lot of heat and do not cool down in between it will warp and twist the area around the A-pillars so that your doors will not fit the way they did before.

Best rgs
BB

Awesome.  Thanks for the advice on welding the heater channel.  I'll go slow to eliminate any warping that will change the A-pillar and door alignment.

Do you happen to have any pictures of your cage in this area?  I was thinking about taking the bar down to the flat plate, tack welding everything in place, cutting holes in the pan, then dropping the cage through the pan to allow for easier access to weld the top of the cage.  The pans will be replaced eventually because they were done by a previous owner and they used cheap pans, very thin in comparison to the factory, plus they did a half ass job.  

The other option is bring the bar down onto the channel and notch it, which gives more leg room, but that wouldn't allow me to drop the cage for welding.

Thanks,
Will

Again that is exactly how my chromolly cage has been fit. Cut the floor, drop the main hoop, weld and raise. The theory behind my cage is that I can easily unbolt the body from the chassis and lift it including the cage. The rear tubes goes to the rear trunk floor where there they are welded to two square plates (SFI size) Then I have two bars going from the frame forks and up to matching square plates under the rear trunk and bolted to the plates above.

I have to admit we copied a lot of details from Adeles car when we did my cage:http://cal-look.no/lounge/index.php/topic,3041.30.html

(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd37/StripTeaseRacing/rollcage2.jpg)

(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd37/StripTeaseRacing/rollcage6.jpg)

(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd37/StripTeaseRacing/rollcage8.jpg)

(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd37/StripTeaseRacing/rollcage7.jpg)

(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd37/StripTeaseRacing/rollcage9.jpg)

(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd37/StripTeaseRacing/rollcage10.jpg)

Best rgs
BB

Those look great.  I spent about an hour this evening bending and hammering out the passenger a-pillar plate.  I'm sure my neighbors though I was Thor, I sure did :)

Sliders arrived this week.  I boxed part of the seat in, this should work well.  Once the cage is build, I'll have the seats blasted and powder coated, then figure out what to do for covers.

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7790/18101648558_cef7d93347_z_d.jpg)

Fitting the dash pods.  I think the switch and button are flipped.  I need to reverse them.  The ashtray knob was brittle and broke before I could install it, so it would up with the nipple from a gear oil bottle.

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7751/17666855234_ceab734231_z_d.jpg)

Pod clamps are made from the stock Porsche seat sliders.  @ $25/set, I figured I'd make my own.

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7765/17669100933_4b10c145ba_z_d.jpg)

Main hoop, 7 bends of complication.

(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3822/19038268912_34d340b24a_z_d.jpg)

Halo and a-pillar bars.  A-pillar bars are three bends in three different planes, glad I got it figured out before I run out of material!

(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/459/18421314584_e05d22dc45_z_d.jpg)

Nhra rule book says the cross bar behind the rear seat is 1-1/4x.118", that's what I used, does it seem smaller that typical?  It's not welded in, that strap is holding it in place.

Last cage I built I ran the a-pillar bar up around to the main hoop.  The beetle interior just seems to fit the halo better.

(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/301/18857655339_8b9b80e17c_z_d.jpg)

The fun continues

(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/523/18979593389_bb4e4fa9d4_z_d.jpg)

(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/343/18543192634_12f71a82ff_z_d.jpg)

(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/367/19159973592_a650f71bc0_z_d.jpg)

I covered the narrowed porsche seat with existing materials.  I trimmed the horse hair and used stock covers; stock cover is a little baggy, but it will do.  A couple more things seat related to take care of, rear support and a temporary head rest for racing.

(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3698/18947918983_7a629ac5b1_z_d.jpg)

Seats are mounted via a sill bar and two cross bars.  I used tubing connectors between the sill bar and tunnel to allow the body and cage be parted from the pan.

(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/275/19267369789_b1023e9047_z_d.jpg)

Couple things left on the cage.  "B" bars need to be installed (they are the bars from the main hoop down to the kafer bar.  Window net is on order, custom shape to fit the window/door bar opening.  Harness tabs need to be installed for the lap belts.  Shoulder is wrap around with 1/4" bar "keepers" to prevent them from sliding on the seat bar.

Porsche seat looks pretty cool in there.

(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/387/19573108661_79e51de083_z_d.jpg)

Coming together really nicely 8)  I can highly recommend some sort of head support to be added to the cage, that lowback seat wont help your neck at all ;)

cheers Richie

Thanks Richie.  I've been following your thread.  I tired to keep up for a while but you have pulled away from me.

I ordered a head rest kit.  My plan is to make it removable so I can take it off when not racing and keep the nostalgic low back look.

Can you tell me if this window net install meets the requirements for "inside" of the roll cage?  I can take a straight edge and run it along the tube surfaces and never touch the net.

(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/408/19056328904_06949696ef_z_d.jpg)

(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/528/19056323694_96ecf66977_z_d.jpg)

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Looks alright to me

Thanks, I'll keep moving forward.

Evan (5), Finn (2), Nina (GSD, 2)

(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/387/19655495218_dca11acbd0_z_d.jpg)

So I had some questions regarding attaching the main hoop rear braces to my subframe.  A lot of guys use 6"x6" plates on the luggage tray, but since there might be a magical scroll back there one day I opted to leave the tray area cutout.  To allow for the body and pan to be separated, I welded a 1-5/8" cross bar between the inner fenders, attached with 1/8" 6"x6" plates.  The rear braces drop down to this and get "welded in".  The cross bar has 3/4" drop tubes with 1/4" thick flanges, 4x 3/8" grade 8 fasteners on each side.  In addition to the 1-5/8 tube from the top of the hoop, I also ran bars from the mid section of the hoop, opposite of where the door bar lands, down to the rear brace at the horizontal bar.

"Section 20, page 23 General Regulations in front of main hoop. If helmet is behind or under main hoop, additional tubing same size and thickness as roll cage must be added to protect driver. Main hoop may be laid back or forward, but driver must be encapsulated within the required roll-cage components. On unibody cars with stock floor and firewall (wheel tubs permitted), the roll cage may be bolted or welded to the floor/rocker box via 6-inch x 6-inch x .125-inch steel plates similar to the roll-bar attachment requirements of paragraph 4:10 in this section. Unless attaching to OEM floor or frame, the minimum requirements for a frame member or fully welded in place frame connectors on unibody cars to which a roll-cage member is attached are 1 5/8-inch x .118-inch MS or .083-inch CM round and/or 2-inch x 2-inch x .058 MS or CM rectangular."

(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/498/19220892884_ba45a52fd0_z_d.jpg)

I'll need to separate the body and pan to finish welding the plate.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3704/19843836635_19e000acc9_z_d.jpg)

Spent some time this weekend building a battery box, sealed and vented.  Now to clean up the wiring.  I went with a 52 harness, no need for cloth covered wiring at 2x the cost.  In addition I'll have a 7 circuit system from painless for the line lock, ignition/injection controller, fuel pump, tach, etc.

(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/276/20165534891_811f283e84_z_d.jpg)

Im waiting on a Wolfsburg west seat belt for the lid clamp and it will be complete.

(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/529/20159953885_903b619344_z_d.jpg)

All the roll cage padding is in.  SFI rated around the helmet, "pool noodles" in non critical areas.  This is getting seriously close, ordered Phoenix front runners and all the fittings for the breather box, which I'm going to make a smaller version, similar to the one offered by Doug berg.

Nice progress 8)  biggest catch tank/breather box you can is way to go for me, doesn't do any harm and is better just in case!!!

cheers Richie

Thanks Richie.  I was planning on making one 4x6x2-1/4 similar to the Doug berg on the samba.  I built a much larger one and had plans on mounting it on the firewall inside the cab with bulkhead fittings, but decided against it temporarily.  It's a tight fit getting one on the firewall in the engine bay with the 1" trans raise.  I might be able to go a little larger, just have to see this weekend.

How is your project going?  Have you made it to the track yet?

I'm no Big Wig, maybe a Lil Wig.

(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/519/20414952456_2dccea867a_z_d.jpg)

(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/459/20253096290_c96cf2c279_z_d.jpg)

Nice panel work  ;)

Thanks.  It's not pretty, but functional.  I have one access panel for the shifter bushing and a second opposte of the battery behind the drivers seat for fuel injection controller etc.  The rear seat area is made from .080" aluminum with a few cross braces made from .125".  It's strong enough to sit/stand on to access the trans and luggage tray area.  Rather than using dzus fasteners, I went with press in M6 sheet metal nuts and hex head bolts, which makes everything tight and pulled together.  I plan to carpet the rear seat area and the luggage area once it's complete.

I'm on the fence whether to go turbo, or build the big motor NA and maybe add nitrous later.  I still need the luggage area to mount a oil cooler, since the 4" motor blocks off the doghouse cooler.  Decisions decisions.

.

Turbo! No doubt. Or even better, all 3: Big NA motor with turbo and nitrous  :)

Take a look at Mr Shattocks oil cooler solution:

(http://cal-look.no/lounge/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=23929.0;attach=75134;image)

(http://cal-look.no/lounge/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=23929.0;attach=75135;image)

Best rgs
BB

Former Big NA and Nitrous engine owner. Now turbo, high boost and mouse engine. Much more fun and a lot less money

That is a very good idea, but with the narrowed torsion housing I don't think it would fit.

I had my crank swapped for a 84mm, so it will be a 2724 , still a beast.  I've been researching turbos, looks like something in the ball park of a gtx3582 would get it done.  Maybe too big?

There's no such thing as too big!  :D How about a large turbo with a hit of gas to overcome the lag?

More sheet metal work.  I need to finish the top, which will be another 4 pieces.  My plan is to use aluminum tape, same stuff used for duct work, to seal all the seams.  Then cover everything with dynamat.

I'm really considering removing the firewall below where the shelf ties in.  It's an hack job clusterF anyway.  This would give me better access to the trans and engine, but cooling would suffer while on the street.

(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/640/20648729801_8d7a05fde4_z_d.jpg)

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(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/640/20648729801_8d7a05fde4_z_d.jpg)

As we sit.  The top needs the press in nuts, currently held together with sheet metal screws.  Then tape the seams, some seam sealer around the firewall and it's ready to dynamat.

The faceted edges look cool, but they made for some compound angles.

(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/726/20778917226_6001416c7d_z_d.jpg)

(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/630/20617191588_46b2b12dc3_z_d.jpg)

A couple Italian ladies came home with me the other night...

These are going to Jaycee for some "work".

(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/782/20182601504_40e7bdcd91_z_d.jpg)

So the turbo is very appealing but, I think I'm going to stick with big NA (KISS principle) for now and enjoy the sounds of the IDAs.  It should still make for a fast car and not completely get a head of myself.  NA will give me a chance to get some seat time in without an absolute monster hanging out the back.  This car hasn't seen the road in 30+ years prior to me putting it together! and nothing over about 25mph in the neighborhood since then.

This will also allow me to focus more on high quality parts that will last into the next generation for this car.

A sensible idea, and being built with one eye on future upgrades is always smart. Coming along nicely - makes me wish I'd held on to my '51!

Busy working on electrical.  One terminal block for 7 circuit switched power to feed all the toys.  One terminal block for the MSD.  Both are wired in, still need to build a harness to all the accessories and one to the distributor and coil.  Ground bus built from 1/8 copper plate, holds ten grounds and one 6ga to the chassis.

(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5721/21019151540_390d24129a_z_d.jpg)

Added a switch panel to the cage, just below the drivers glove box.  Switches for two step and lineloc arming.  Shift light and tach mounted.  My goal was to preserve the look of the split dash.

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This may be really hard to see, added a clutch switch.  I used an old micro switch from a golf cart? And modified the clutch stop to have a small notch to allow for the switch to protrude through.  Switch is closed with clutch out, open when pressed.  Couple this with a "pull-up resistor" and it can be used to trigger the two step.  It's not wired yet, but the switch functions well with the clutch in and out.

(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/675/21020471039_eb4aaa3730_z_d.jpg)

Wiring

(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5807/21401184046_e16a8da496_z_d.jpg)

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My new fav

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Giant breather, -10 lines for oil filler, fuel pump block off, valve covers and a -12 for the drain.  Baffled internally and two K&N filters.  Took about a day to build.  I figure all in cost about $100 bucks and a bunch of fun!

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I like the breather! I used an old  fire extinguisher with several fittings welded around the top. Worked tho!

Great idea on the extinguisher.

This one was the third incarnation; the previous two where just boxes, no fittings so the cost low.  I found a local place that sells aluminum cutoffs and I was able to score 6061 plate for cheap.  6061 is awesome to weld compared to some of the garbage I've messed with.

Electrical is pretty much finished.  Engine back together and running.  I checked the two step, by using the clutch out = switch on, I used two 1k ohm resistors in parallel, giving 500 ohm resistance and passing 9.95v to the MSD box.  The MSD has an internal resistance of 3k ish ohms.  Why it isn't designed higher, like most modern electronics is unknown.  Because of the low internal resistance, it's difficult to pass battery voltage with this type of circuit, but apparently 9.95v is enough to trigger the two step.  It was working flawlessly on the street.

Line lock is confirmed working.  Tach is good to go.  Still need to shorten the wide and sensor cable, minor thing.

Padded head rest is installed.  I used a medic type bag with MOLLE attachment stuffed with 2" foam.  Good place to store something???

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Added a seat brace today, makes the seat feel much stiffer.  Bandimere in a week or so, get the suspension close before going to Vegas.  Needs an alignment first.  I haven't been able to get after it yet, so my expectations from this motor are low.

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With axles all the way forward in the spring plates, it stared at
.50 degrees in on rear driver
.22 degrees in on rear passenger

I was pretty happy with these figures considering I narrowed the torsion housing and all of the suspension stuff I've done.

Finished at .12 degrees each side, totaling .24 toe in, about a 1/16" total toe in.

Front was wayyyy off, don't even want to talk about it ;)

Finished at .24 tie in.  I need to recheck the shims because the camber didn't match too well.

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Very cool project, thanks for sharing!

Thanks, it's been a fun project.  Winter is about to be here so it will start slowing down, maybe some work on the big engine over winter though.

I am headed to the track tomorrow evening for a little test and tune.  I'm worried the clutch isn't going to hold but will give it my best.

Will

Elevation!!  Do I start making the excuses now?

Well let's just say it goes straight.  ;)

Bandimere is at 5800', density altitude was 8000', but it was a beautiful day.  I did get to weigh this pig, 1865 lbs w/ driver....

First pass, let's go easy on it, belt and muffler.  I lifted and just tested the stability.  This car hasn't gone over 30mph in 30 years.
R/T .310
60' 2.233
1/8 10.302 @ 62.92 mph
1/4 16.769 @ 72.87 mph

Second pass, ditch the belt, w/ muffler. Had issues with the two step, I was on the launch limiter while running through the gears.  Maybe I'm not all of the way out of the clutch and it's still engaging.  Needs investigating.
R/T .396
60' 2.120
1/8 9.277 @ 77.05 mph
1/4 14.598 @ 94.56 mph

Third pass, no belt, w/ muffler.  Didn't arm the two step, launched hard, didn't nose over as bad.  Still bogged though.
R/T .141
60' 1.891
1/8 8.804 @ 77.90mph
1/4 13.891 @ 96.29 mph

Forth and final pass, no belt, w/ muffler, no two step.  Hit the limiter on a shift, gave up a little mph.
R/T  .110
60' 1.885
1/8 8.751 @ 77.91 mph
1/4 13.86 @ 95.52

I need more seat time, and a better understanding of the best shift points.  I need a diet.  I need to work on the launch.  There has to be a 1.6 in there with slicks, the 3.88 and 4.12 first.  Btw this was my first time down the track in 15 years.  My boys had a blast

Video of the last pass.  Any feedback?  I can't tell if I'm spinning.  Too much compression, not enough? I have adjustable shocks. I want to hang the tires in Vegas!

https://www.flickr.com/photos/86_ski_nautique/21826627336/in/dateposted-public/lightbox/

Great results!

What are your plans with the paint? I love it how it looks right know  ;D

Plan is to leave the paint for at least the next year.  Over winter I will fix the bumper bracket areas that are jacked in the rear and replace the apron (removable).  I need front fenders.  The plan was to get split fenders from gerson, but he does them in limited quantities and the next batch isn't until Q1 2016.  Once I get the parts together, it's unlikely I can have it painted before race season starts.

Ideally we will go to phx while there is still snow on the ground here, make a trip to California for the classic, do the colorado bug in, and do Vegas end of the year.  Sprinkle a bunch of test days out at bandimere.

Then maybe next winter pull it down for paint.

Well done for getting it done and taking it to the track 8)  NHRA gives a correction factor for that 5800 at Denver that makes your time 13.02@100.89, the fact that it was 8000 makes it even better, we will be in Vegas so I will come over and say Hi :)

cheers Richie

Thanks Richie, I look forward to meeting you in Vegas.

Any recommendations on launch rpm?  I was leaving at 5000 on the two step and it bogged hard.  When I had the two step off, I was feathering the throttle between 5500-6000, didn't seem to bog as hard and netted the better 60' times, still had a significant rpm drop as can be seen in the video.  What I've read today is 6800 plus with the two step.

I like to start at 6800 and see how it works then adjust from there if needed, vegas you shouldn't need a burnout even or it will bog bad, let it spin the tyre then adjust tyre pressure down to get it to hook

cheers Richie

Glad to hear it made it to the track! I'll be in Vegas as well and look forward to checking it out! Still trying to decide whether or not to haul my pile down there to run with Mr. Richie and the other USW boys. Have a safe trip!

Come on Chip bring it and join in the fun :)

The car looked good today! Looks like you managed to go rounds as well. Now get that big motor together this winter!

Thanks, we had a good time.

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We met Jack from Jaycee and he brought along a couple toys.  The Italian ladies got a make over.

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Yeah I went rounds ;) managed to get a win in the first by .005 seconds, only because the fella I raced back out of it but wasn't able to hang on.  The second round was a buy in which I managed to miss second, haha straight to the final.  Lost in the final with a red light.  I can't really claim any sort of victory other than maybe the car survived, but I'll still cash the bugorama check.

Best run was 13.46@99.68?  Had one pass break a 100mph.  Farted around with jetting, couldn't remember to hit record on the wide and 5 of 6 runs.  The one time I did record I turned the car off to replace the belt, forgot to end recording, corrupted the data.  I need to get my shit together.

I had fixed the clutch switch, only to find it getting stuck again.  Killed me on one run when I dropped launch rpm to 5000.  I'm determined to make this work.

The car squats bad, bad bad.  With the narrowed torsion, I don't think 28s are enough.  I had the shocks wound up to 16 clicks on compression.   It's still hitting the tires hard and the tires are rubbing on the inner fenders, no wheel spin, bogs hard  I had 16psi in the slicks, no burn out.  I didn't have a pump, but I'll try 18psi next time, maybe 20psi.

This coming weekend is the last TNT at Bandimere for the season.  I plan on spending the full day out Saturday trying to get my shit together.

Favorite comment from the tower. "The red, gray, black, green bug...........................(long silence).........I like it". ROTFLMAO

Most people thought it was a fake split.  Had a couple guys figure it out and asked if the purists shared some hate for me.  If they feel I've done the car an injustice, pony up the dough, buy it from me, and do it "right".  Most cant imagine the cost of split correct parts.  At least it's not buried in a old shop anymore and is getting driven, right?  I think it was the only split in Vegas, pretty cool.

Overall, I'm happy with the event.  My last real VW race was 15 years ago in Vegas.  I met the goal I set out for myself last year.

Excellent update! Thank you for sharing. And congrats with reaching your goal with great margin.

Best rgs
-BB-

https://youtu.be/T0Y7kbMIuys (https://youtu.be/T0Y7kbMIuys)
I have a super simple clutch switch setup for my 2 step. Works really well, allows for good r&p preload while still on the limiter. The video is not as clear as I would like it to be, but hopefully you get the idea.

I might try that Chip.  Mine is currently behind the clutch pedal and integrated into the adjustable stop plate.  I notched the stop tab so the switch lever arm pokes through.  It worked great but I was riding the clutch so always on the two step.  It's a tricky cat to skin.  Switch needs to be on but allow for some movement of the pedal to preload, but not on too soon like it originally had it.

I've heard of guys staging with the line lock.  If I started staging that way, I could wire it through the same switch.

I have a 1st gear switch on mine as well, that way it can only activate in 1st gear or on E brake if I stage using that

cheers Richie

I know mine is throttle position based, and might even have an minimum mph requirement to be active. I've never had it cause an issue either way though.

I think I've got the clutch switch sorted out.  It's mounted on the clutch/brake pedal stop plate, the one that is secured by a single bolt through the pan.  Since it's a single bolt, it was allowing the plate to rotate, to the point the switch was between the clutch and brake stop tabs.  The two spot welds on the threaded plate on the pan were broken.  I pulled it apart and welded a bolt to the stop plate, then bolted through the floor, cranked on it pretty tight so it's unlikely to go anywhere.

Did a couple practice launches in the street using the line lock.  Felt ok, seems like I was getting more clutch slip.  I added 15mm wheel spacers so the tires stop rubbing on the inner fenders on launch, guess that could have scrubbed a little power off on launch.

Track day Saturday.  My goal is to improve to the 13.4x mark at altitude.  Seat time and minor tweaks may add up.

New best at Bandimere
13.660@97.46mph
1.843 60'

To keep my mind busy while waiting on parts for the 4" engine (still waiting on the case to get thrust installed), I've decided to throw together a "sweep the floor" engine.

So far I have...
Mexican AS41 case, std line bore and thrust.  I tapped it for full flow tonight.  Needs a line bore to .020", opened for 94s and stroke clearance.
DMS welded 82mm crank, .010" mains, std rods.  Needs to be turned.
Mahle 94 B pistons and cylinders, need rings
Webcam 121/125 w/ matching lifters, chromoly push rods and 1.1 rockers on solid shafts
30mm pump
Race Trim copy sump
Santana pulley
009 w/module, coil, plug wires
Engine tin

Parts needed
Bearings
Rods
Flywheel
Heads

How would the 121/125 work in a turbo motor?  I've got a t3 turbo from a svo mustang, 60 compressor, .63 turbine.  Needs a rebuild kit.

That cam will kill stock mag lifter bores. I've heard good things about the power and drivability, but I know of 3 motors that had it that all had lifter bores wiped out.

I've heard it will kill the case.  Any idea if the wear can be repaired later by sleeving the bores?  It's the only cam I have on the shelve and buying a cam/lifters/rockers is out of the question for this STF engine.  I'm just trying to throw something together cheap and abuse the piss out if it.

What do you think of that cam with a turbo?

I'm tempted to pull the AJ heads off my 2275 and have a valve job, then spend some money in the spring for better heads for that motor.  I might do the same with the scat rods.

OMFnG, lets do this.  I'm going to start this weekend with a light deburr of the case.
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Hahaha! Gets like that doesn't it?
Cool thread btw, always looking in.  8)

GID - Get It Done! VERY cool. I look forward to reading your updates. A proper winter warmer engine thread.

-BB-

Yes it does! 

I think I contacted Todd about this time last year when I was making the decision for go 4".  And contacted him about every month thereafter to get updates on how the castings were coming, eventually to the machining, then eventually shipping to Geers.  Todd has been very helpful throughout this process.  The thrust and roller setup Geers did looks awesome.  I'll try to get some detailed pictures before I start the debur process.

Enjoyable thread, thanks.

Pictures of TF-1 as promised

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Full flow setup
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Case is built for external pressure regulation
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Where the front pressure relief valve would've, not included on 4" case
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No oil cooler on 4" cases
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I spent about three hours today using a small hobby file breaking edges, on one half of the case.  The machined edges were very sharp.  I also took my die grinder with a 80 grit cylinder and knocked down some of the internal casting.  I plan on continuing this but need for cones/cylinders.

What level do guys take it to on the internal polish?  Grit?
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Looks like a nice piece.

I'm a little out of the loop so, what's with the added bit around the pushrod tube holes? Roller rockers?
Why aren't there provisions for an oil cooler on a 4" case?

Looking forward to your build/feedback!

Lifters (roller) are installed from the outside along with the guide bars, then the plate is bolted over the top for the pushrod tubes.  I guess when going 4", there are a few oil passages that can't be drilled.  I've read on CB modified cases the require welding the passages up.

Here is a picture of the oil galleys, stolen from JayCee's website.  Buy something from them, they have great products and customers service.

I think it's the middle passage between the cylinders that gets in the way of the studs.
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When I had a CB case converted to 4inch an ally rod was pushed down that oil gallery from cooler down then welded in place as when the bore it opened up it cuts into it, then if you have 6 stud the top stud near oil light switch hole actually is in oil gallery so needs to be welded up to give stud something to fix into

cheers Richie 

Richie, I saw the Facebook post, what head studs are you using? I'm going to need a set here quickly.

Thanks,
Will

Pm ;)

Thanks Richie.

I was doing  research on pistons and cylinders and ran across this thread.  This used to be a cal-look.no, it was BA then, only getting faster.
Soon to be a BAMF
http://oldschool.co.nz/2011/forum/index.php?/topic/39148-sluggys-59-stripstreet-vw/

Lifters, right! Too much beer before that last post :D

Very awesome build, Billy!

Thanks.  There are so many cool cars on this sight for inspiration.

Today while traveling for work, I was able to make a pit stop in to check out the Kustom Coach Werks shop in Grand Junction, Colorado.  Pretty cool little compound.  Landed a L81 Army long sleeve T.  I'm going to consider these guys when it comes to painting the split.  They know these cars about as well as anyone in this part of the country.

Found this picture on my phone from when I assembled the 2275.

AJ hand ported.  I thought they were a little bigger, more like a ultra mag*, but definitely look small.
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Goof'n around out in the shop.  A little low budget, "sweep the floor" turbo action.

Picked this garret up for $200.  T04E/T3, 50 trim with .82 turbine housing.  Local guy had it on his Eagle Talon, made 370hp, sold to step up to more power.  

Speedway has a good deal on 1-5/8" mandrel bends.  Combination bend, includes a U-bend and also J-bend for $12.99.  Spend $100 and free shipping.  $104 to the door for 8 bends, plenty to build this sort of header.  Hand build merged collector, I used my tube notcher on full tilt.  CB flanges, 1/2" t3 flange.  Talon guy threw in a 5bolt turbine housing flange and also a .48 turbine housing.

3/4 side is finished, #2 pipe is close.  Should be done tomorrow.  Header is built on my 2275 long block, which should be the same width as the STF engine.  It's a tough fit under the apron with the 1" trans raise.  I'm going to need to be creative with the full flow fittings.

I'll get it finished tomorrow and post some pictures off the car.

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Double post

Needs a waste gate now.  This would have been way easier with a true merged collector.  If I get the itch on the 4" motor a merged collector with v-bands to the turbo and between pipes would be the way to go.

(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/589/23179228812_e6c8bc4019_z_d.jpg)

I wish I had your fab skills! That should wake that car up for next season! 

Chip,
Your running mega squirt?  What version?  I ran MS1 back in the day, 2004-2006, sold all my stuff to MarioV way back.  It's a little overwhelming with ms1/ms2/ms3 expansion cards daughter cards, gee wiz.

I have some injection stuff to put to use but I need a controller.

Maybe I can play with the USW cars in Vegas next year

MS3-Pro for me.  I had an MS3/MS3x previously but swithed to this system because of the better plugs and such.  Its a much nicer package than the build it yourself setups, though those work just fine as well.  The aluminum box styles have come a long way from where they were when you were playing with it a decade ago. The different daughter card options allow you to grow with your system.  I prefer to jump in with both feet and have generally bought the latest and greatest they have to offer. 
The system is pretty robust at this point.  It is doing everything...sequential spark and fuel, boost control, fancy water/meth system, oil cooler and radiator fans, intercooler pump, flex fuel, 2 step, 3 step, line lock, shift lights, speed sensors allowing for traction control potential, etc etc... Hopefully you get the idea.  EFI is a fun way to play.  There is a learning curve, but it is worth it in my eyes. 

USW was a blast!  I hope to do it again next year, hopefully in a better state of tune  ;)

You should haul that thing to SLC in June or July for the MSVWRA race here.  Would be fun to line up together!

I was planning on hitting the mountain states races, although the SLC race is a drive.  We didn't make any this year due to not having the car ready.  I planned on making grand junction but it was on a Friday and my boss came into town.  I think I've convinced the wife on the msvwra action and the Vegas race for next year.  We will see.

I guess all the features of MS3X are what makes it overwhelming, but so tempting.

Very similar to my exhaust! Pay attention to where you place your WG with regards to boost control/exhaust flow. Also pay attention to the oil return when you have the turbo mounted low.

(http://cal-look.no/lounge/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=265.0;attach=44517;image)

My old Holset turbo:

(http://cal-look.no/lounge/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=265.0;attach=44518;image)

(http://cal-look.no/lounge/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=265.0;attach=44528;image)

With my current Precision turbo. Picture is borrowed from Wally. Here you can also see that I modified the oil return compared to the pictures above. Together with restricting the oil flow it really helped.

(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/Events/283f5b4e-3696-4073-acac-559e1dc2b255_zps49bee29d.jpg)

-BB-

BB Do you have any better photos of the piece of tin that is isolating your air filter from header. That's a great idea! I have a very similar header as well and hate the oil line routing options. My filter its on the right side as well.

I can take detailed pictures of it later Chip since it is currently mounted on the car. It was a 30 minute job with a paper model before I cut and bent a metal plate followed by a simple paint job. I mount is using the original sheet metal threaded nuts.

-BB-

Awesome setup BB.  The turbo  inlet is very close to the pulley!  I'm in a similar situation.  I was looking at doing a slight bend with a silicon connector to pull it away, then straighten back out.  Your oil lines are also very tight.  What are you using to protect the lines from the heat?

Thanks for your feedback.

I appreciate it!

Chip. I found your thread on STF.  Nice setup.  You have some skills yourself!

I'm trying to wrap my head around the induction.  I'd like to get this setup together, but have room for growth with the 4"  engine if I change direction.  Is pretty much everyone against individual throttle bodies with a turbo?

Right now I have (4) 60lb/hr short injectors. Aeromotive pump and regulator..  If I ran my current IDF/Dell manifolds, with throttle bodies I could use the injectors in the body and blow through with a turbo "hat ".  I could then upgrade on the 4" engine with same induction, with the addition of 4 more injectors in the manifolds.

I'm a fan of using the cast manifold at the head.  Much easier to match the head port.

I understand single is the simple route, but does it sacrifice throttle response?  As the throttle opens, the "plenum" fills with atmospheric pressure and takes time.  With IR, it's atmospheric right above the throttle plates.

I've always though this setup was cool.  I had to screen shot from a old Carlsbad video

Good thing for the holiday, plenty of VW time this week!

That's with my old set up some years ago. I modified the header to be able fit a "E" type compressor housing and that gave me more space. The PE turbo is a lot bigger compared to the Holset one. There is a lot of space behind the engine as long as you do not use a CB hide away exhaust.

-BB-

Looks good and flow "friendly" Nice bends and so on. I believe it is (was) a methanol engine producing 550hp if I remember correctly. I have chosen not to cut my car and so far I have managed to avoid it. My engine is a 1641ccm mouse and it looks like this from the other side:

(http://racebilder.club/var/albums/Diverse/1641%20turbo-01.jpg?m=1417781831)

Inside the 90dg turn in the 3" plenum there is a deep V going into the intercooler in order to improve the airflow/speed. And back to the underside, I`m using a K&N air filter with a 20dg inlet flange angle;

(http://www.knfilters.com/images/l/RU-1710.jpg)

-BB-

Amazing setup!  Your running dual TBs, what is the throttle response like?  I had just assumed you were running a single (seems so common).

The 1641 has run the 10.41 in your sig?

Is there anyway you could take a picture looking down at the y-pipe going into the throttle body?

I cut my body.  Well, lets say I removed damaged sheet metal and just never replaced it.  That sounds better.  :)

Thanks. Yes it has run 10.41 - 130mph.

There in no Y pipe at the throttle bodies. It is situated in the "roof" of the T going down the intercooler. Working as a splitter.

-BB-

Awesome setup again.  10.41 is amazing.  I'm still struggling with how it splits into the throttle body.  I though the v in the inner oiler outlet was for each bank.  Do you have any pictures of it when you were building it?

Under decklid set up from brazil, pictures from hotcampinas.com

Nice.  I like your setup Richie.  How do you plan on running a oil cooler on the 4" engine?

For what it's worth, I don't have a cooler in my shroud. I just run an external cooler after my filter. Not a big deal at all.

Thanks Chip, where is your cooler mounted?

For the 4" motor I planned to mount a mocal type cooler and fan above the transaxle.  If I went turbo, I really doubt I could squeeze the turbo under the apron.  This one is a tight fit with the 1" trans raise.  I like the turbo location Richie runs, same with the autocraft oval engine I posted, but it wouldn't leave room for a external cooler over the trans.  I've seen coolers mounted low, between the frame horn and spring plate, but I also have a narrowed torsion housing, so rules that out.

Dam, that is a lot of work! Any updates from the dyno the car sits on?

Best rgs
-BB-

Figured it out. 

Mine is between the spring plate and the frame horn, against the torsion housing. You definitely have a challenge with that one. Having the firewall and such gone must provide a little extra space though. Gotta room in there somewhere.

Just e-mailed you a photo of the back of my car with the oil cooler position. It sits above the gearbox off to the left, mounted off the cage and under the aluminium firewall box.

Thanks Neil.  Looks good.

I guess what's put me on the fence is the stories I've read about running out of fuel with e85 and IDAs.  Also, if I I cant get to 12.5:1 ish, the big cam will be really lazy at this altitude.  That means cutting the heads from 65cc down.  Which will be difficult to overcome if I went turbo in the future.  There is also the duplication of parts if I changed. Pistons, pockets vs dish ($600-800), roller cam ($500).

What my fear is, going turbo and working through the learning curve on the big motor.  This is part of the reason I'm working on this STF engine and stalling progress on the 4" engine.  I just sold my 48 dells, I'll hang onto my 51.5s if needed  I'm planning on buying Jenvey 45mm IDF throttle bodies to run on this STF 2275 turbo.  They might be a little big, but about perfect for the 4 " engine.

Just my opinion but they are to small for the  2276 even and way to small for the 4inch engine, I have 50mm jenveys on my 2276 and it drives great even low down. Its nothing like driving an engine on carbs

On the E85 thing I would guesstimate that with the opened up float bowl, good size needle and seat IDAs would be ok up to about 250hp on E85, but every engines needs are different

cheers Richie

Do you think the 45s would be to small with a turbo?

Certainly not for the 2276, but why not run a single TB instead?

That is definitely on the table,  I'm just looking at the pros/cons of the two types of systems.

If you consider the two systems, the IR setup has ~10"  of intake below the throttle plate at low pressure, the remainder of the system is at atmospheric pressure (no boost).  As the throttle is opened, atm pressure and air density is waiting for the cylinders, resulting in much better response.  With a single throttle body, everything below the throttle plate is at low pressure, due to the opposing cylinders, this can be a substantial volume if the runners are large enough to support the HP.  It takes time for that air to move and the air density to increase.  That's not to say the single throttle body doesn't work well for drag racing.  Most guys are open throttle and on the two step when launching and the full intake tract is already at atm pressure, or even positive pressure.

The Jenvey site says a 45mm throttle plate is enough to support 65hp, so 260 in total (enough for the power level of my 4" engine NA).  However, they also say at 9000rpm.  My thoughts are small high frequency breaths vs large low frequency breaths.  So a motor turning lower rpm will require a larger TB to support the power level.  I think you and Richie are right about the 45s being too small.

My thoughts were along the lines of 45mm throttle bodies, 2" x .065 wall (47.5mm ID) runners converg into a 2.5 x .065" wall section, then y-pipe to the turbo.  Asuming a larger TBs are required, some of the pipe diameters would need to change as well.

I had one of my guys sketch this up, this would be from one throttle body top toward the y-pipe.

(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/687/23122977634_2a061b2c2f_z_d.jpg)

Finally got half the case deburred and polished (so many sharp edges).  The inside is finished off with 320 cartridge wheel and wd40.  Had to put some stuff together to keep the blood flowing.  The second half is to come.  It needs a little spot welded on the top of the case that got very thin during machining.

(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5635/23105359303_80bdf60280_z_d.jpg)

Made it home over Christmas and fetched this out of my father-in-laws garage.  I left it with him when we moved to Denver over a year ago.  My father-in-law had a 05 C6 vette w/ LS2, E-Force supercharger, made 476 hp to the wheels and I think he enjoyed driving the scab more!  He was upset to see it go.

It needs new gates, and the paint work needs to be finished.  I'm looking forward to driving it this spring.

(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5666/24010165011_16e000d207_z_d.jpg)

And an idea of what I started with.
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2727/4393769854_90c13a4736_o_d.jpg)

Lots of pictures of the build here.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/86_ski_nautique/page2

Thanks for the link! The notch is cool, so many details, like the engine bay air intake screens.
 8)

The notch was cool.  It sat idle when the single cab project started.  I just couldn't ever get back into it.  I sold it to Chad Schley(Schley Bros fame), then bought the split 6-8 months later.

Last I saw the notch it was getting a custom Mendola suspension
http://www.coolrydescustoms.com/past-builds.html

Happy New Years!

I spent some time in the garage today, boy was it cold.  5 degrees this morning, 20 throughout the day.

I am working on the STF turbo engines intakes.  These are the welded IDF intakes (sold the dells) with some spare CB air filter bases (not setup for linkage).  Not sure where the bases came from but I've been moving them around every few years, time to put the to use.  I tacked the base to the manifold, opened up the runners to match the intakes, welded the seam in the runner to seal them, then ground a radius.  The plan is to run CB pressure covers, 2" tubing and get the intake sorted out.  Any recommendations on a throttle body?  Preferably without a lot of BS hanging off it.

(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5819/24090365396_7c5e9ebed6_z_d.jpg)

Perfect! Cheap, short, big enough, simple..........

http://www.ebay.com/sch/Buick-Regal-Throttle-Body/33558/bn_1337602/i.html

Happy new year, good progress your making

Nice work on the CB bases. I used them on my last engine and remember them being a little rough. Something you may want to fix with the pressure covers, the 2 studs to secure them in place are good for only around 1 bar of boost. At 18psi mine started to lift and the gasket moved around.

A thicker gasket and 2 extra mounting studs were used to spread the load and they held firm no problem. Or I guess you could just weld them to the bases  ;)

Good luck
Darren

Made it to the local pick a part.  I walked isles looking for the right one, pulled one from a Buick, a To#¤ta, a Nissan and finally a Subaru.  I figured the subby was our flat four brother, so went that direction.  

This if off a legacy, 2.5 liter.

(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5824/23765141029_392d60d5ee_z_d.jpg)

After an altercation with the band saw.  I tapped the idle air port for 3/8" NPT.  It has a temp fitting, I need to pickup a plug and shape it to match the ID.  I kept all the BS linkage, once it's mounted I can figure out what will work or needs to be modified.  Hoping to cut the shaft down quite a bit.

(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1639/23765135169_d5f62d6764_z_d.jpg)

Looks good! That TB should be just fine, though you might have liked the idle valve, not to say you can't add something later. Good choice on the new cam too. I had one that was pretty similar and the car made very impressive power on the street. Never had it on a dyno or the track, but the worn out tires were proof enough  ;)

Thanks Chip.  It's a 60mm; I think it should be plenty.  I debated over the IAC, but decided to take it off to reduce its foot print.  I guess I can always add a IAC through the 3/8 NPT fitting and mount it remotely.  I never ran one on my previous MS install.  Have you found it to be beneficial or required?

And so everyone knows, I ordered a 86b on 112LC.  Hope it's enough.  I can steal my 1.4s (.537 lift) from the 2275 I ran this year, or borrow the 1.5s (.575 lift) I have for the 4" engine.  Any recommendations?  I'm planning on a valve job on the AJ heads and some CB 650 springs.

I measured deck tonight, it needs about a .020-.030 shim to be zero.  I was planning on .060 gaskets which puts the compression around 9.1:1.  Maybe a little high, but maybe ok for the altitude (5800').

Chip mentioned Vegas was cancelled for 2016.  That is disappointing.

60 should be just fine. I think mine is 50 or so. Works fine too. I have run pwm idle valves, in this car in the past. One I loved(bosch 2 wire), one I hated(Ford), I ran the bosch on my first version Mexican injection based setup. It was responsive and easy to tune. I had nothing but trouble with the ford one that came with the current TB. I have managed to not need it for a few years, but will run a bosch next spring. Its on the to do list for the winter upgrades.

I'd say just stick with the 1.4s. You should be easy capable of making 11s or better power with that combo I'd think.

Update on my projects,

2275T STF - Heads are at the shop getting a valve job, exhaust valves replaced and the 650 springs installed.  Waiting on the 86b.  I finished clearancing the engine case for the crank and rods, mocked up the deck height to flush with .030" shims (I will be running .060" gaskets).  Rings gapped.   I'll need to mock up the cam, rods and clear as needed.

2724 - deciding on valve springs.  The pocket on the MS230s is cut for Chevy springs (1.460") diameter and they have T4 valves.  After looking through k-motion, PSI, comp cams, etc, I found the CB Pro 850 springs and am considering running them.  1.440" diameter, 300lbs @ 1.800", 800lbs @ 1.000", coil bind at .930, they look stout.  The info I've read from DonP is that there is little downside to running too much spring pressure with a roller cam.  I also talked to PatD at CB and he said to shim them to .050" from bind and let the pressures be what they are.

http://www.cbperformance.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=1473

Repaired the little break through on the TF1.  I guess there was a tool offset issue that cause it to become paper thin.the casting didn't weld real well, but good enough I suppose.  I cleaned it up with a die grinder and cartridge roll.

(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1564/24408296761_c850e42c6d_z_d.jpg)

(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1514/23862506074_f3ce9c115a_z_d.jpg)

(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1689/24195139060_de19599911_z_d.jpg)

What duration and lift are you running on the roller cam? 48mm intake valves in your MS230's?

48s yes.  I haven't decided on the cam yet.  I was hoping for .600-.650 lift, somewhere in the ball park of 270-280 degrees at .050.  If I go NA, which it's looking like will be the case more and more.  I'm at the point I want this done, then maybe revisit in a few years.

Do you have any recommendations for a cam?

Cam is ordered.  Valve springs showed up today, along with a set of CB titanium retainers.  So here's the great part, the retainers have such a large ID, they will not work with standard vw T4 valves/keeper (three groove).  So now I get to buy new valves (race master) and locks.  Never ending with this bullshit.

Can I drop new valves in or does it need a valve job?

 ??? You thought you were going to use a 3-groove valve and keepers with those springs?
I'm only pushing around 420 lbs over the nose with my roller cam, and wouldn't think of using anything but a single groove keeper from a reputable valvetrain company.

Wait until you have to set up the installed height...you might find yourself buying new retainers and/or keepers to make up the difference. Accept the fact that you're the guinea pig...

It took me a while, OK, but I've accepted the fact, I'm the guinea pig.  I am powerless over VWs, or maybe obsessed with powerful VWs.  

I didn't give the triple groove valves a second thought.  I ordered a set of race master valves, along with the CB locks (this stuff looks like repackaged Manley, can anyone confirm?).  I'll have the local shop, Painters Grinding, check the valves and cut the heads for 54cc, to put it at 11.6:1 compression.  I'm going to run it on 110, but give E85 a chance.  We have e85 local, so it would be awesome to be able to run it on the street and keep the engine cool.

Has anyone seen the Jaycee/CB IDA Float level gauge?
http://www.cbperformance.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=7353

Couldn't something similar be done to allow for more fuel in the bowl for these E85 applications that require a ton of fuel?

Couple other things.

I secured a set of Bugpack Super Flow intakes, they need a little massaging to work with the 51.5" Jaycees.
Wasp Stage 3 + stinger, on its way from Germany
Geer's is working on CP pistons and a set of cylinders
Cam is getting ground,  278 degrees @ .050, .430" lift at the cam.

I'm hoping to have this together in the next few months for the start of the race season.

Anyone want to take a guess how much power this engine will make?

I wasn't trying to bust your balls; it's just the reality of how unique your combo is. I found that the folks with experience with roller cams were experienced with high-end drag race engines, but not street engines; not milder cam shafts; not smaller valves; and not lifters that would last for thousands of miles. This generally means you really have to do your homework, or be ready to deal with the consequences from somebody's well-intended but incorrect advice. As long as you've accepted that fact, your mindset going into dealing with failures will be more objective...you'll learn and develop your engine combo (rather than burn bridges with blame when parts fail...because parts will fail).

I know that feeling, but when it all works its the shit :o 8)


cheers Richie

Wait, I thought this was a high-end drag race engine? :)  I will get it figured out with yall's help.  I'm a little concerned with my current 1.5 Pauters with the spring pressure that is required.  I'm going to give them a shot, but I fully expect to break them.

I sold my single cab this weekend, so I'm fully committed (funded) to getting this engine completed for the spring.  Any questimates on HP corrected to sea level?  Ball park 260-270hp flywheel?

Richie,

How is your 4" engine coming?  I haven't seen any updates in a while. 

I might need some advice from you on setting up a NOS fogger kit.  A 50-100 shot might be in the future.

Sorry, my mistake...it sounds like a perfectly streetable engine to me  ;D

Car is in USA and I am in England ::)

cheers Richie

That gives me a little time to catch back up. 

Until about an hour ago, just landed for 3 weeks progress :D  Waiting on header parts to arrive now


cheers Richie

I guess I better step it up.  Where is the USW race this year?

Fontana I think in october

993 miles.  You guys have it good.  A 15 hour drive will put some stress on my marriage. ;)

Its about 7000 for me :D

Vegas was perfect for me. Fontana is to far to bring my pocket knife this year  :-\

Valves and locks arrived last night.  I mocked up an intake and it measures 1.856" spring height.  I hope they are all this close.  Slap a set of .060 shims in and call it 1.800".  300lbs installed, estimated 670lbs on the nose.

I asked my wife about Fontana.  Google says 15 hours.  Add some additional time for family stops, we are looking at an 18 hour day.  That would be tough on the family.  It would be a lot of fun though.  USW requires a passenger seat, but doesn't say anything about it being upholstered eh?

One more!

(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1590/25619670132_d08608fc56_z.jpg)

About 5 hours under the hood and on the peddle.  This should let me open those intakes up to 51.5 and create a nice taper down into the port.

(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1538/25483691810_1d259725d3_z.jpg)

Very nice. Job well done!

-BB-

Thanks, the excitement is building.

The heads are at Painters in Denver getting flycut (45cc) and the springs installed.  Plan is zero deck, .050 copper gasket.  I'm guessing the valve pockets will be 5-6cc.  So 12.3-12.1 : 1 compression.

Before taking the heads, while the valves were out, I was able to match up the intakes to the heads nicely.  My compressor is down (tank check valve) and I had to borrow a neighbors.  Going from 18cfm to 5cfm takes patience :)  The intakes took some work to get opened up, the heads took just a little bit to blend in.  My compressor should be fixed in the next couple days and I will start opening the intakes up on the carb end.

STF Engine is nearly complete.  Had to shelve to the turbo stuff since I am on path to finish the 4" engine.  Its been a busy winter and I haven't made as much progress and don't have the time to get a FI install done before the season starts.

I am rerunning the FK45 with CB 1.4 rockers.  Lift measured at .570" @ the valve.  I bumped the compression to 11:1.  It needs a header and pushrods and it will be ready to go back in the car.  The track opens April 15/16/17, and I am hoping to drive the car to the Painters Grinding Dub Roast April 16th.

I'm hoping with the freshening up (valve job, new springs, new P&C), more compression, IDAs, 1-3/4" header, it will improve on my best of 13.66 @ Bandimere.  Maybe a high 12?

(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1603/25991523596_2da5c85220_z.jpg)

Just caught up a couple pages on this. great thread!
going back to waste gates, i learnt last night about installing WG's on the exhaust housing which if you can fit it in would be ideal with a header like ours have....? just a thought

Thanks Andy.  I think getting the wastegate on the exhaust housing would be difficult.  the downpipe is already going to need a sharp 90 degree bend to clear the bumper mount / quarter panel area.  I was planning a remote wastegate.  I think TurboBob runs a remove gate with a long tube from the collector to the gate.  Seems to work OK for him.

Here it is, ready to mock up deck height and get the cylinders cut.  TF-1 doesn't include case studs, so I pulled studs from a old mag case that had serious corrosion.
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1550/25782476540_499a5c4c39_z.jpg)

Nice table.

Ha, yeah the wife was happy about my photo shoot.

I love your car! I've been watching your build thread for a while now and hoping I would run into you eventually at a local show as I live in Westminster. I usually go the Painter's Dub Roast but my wife made plans for that weekend.

Thanks.  I am planning on taking the car to the dub roast.  It might not be street legal for then so I might pull the car down on the trailer, unload close and drive it in.  I will also be at the track that weekend, most likely Sunday.

I was planning on going to the track on Sunday too but it looks like I'll have to wait until the next weekend.

CSP/JPM Wasp.  Starts at 1-3/4", step to 2", step to 2-1/8".   It is a work of ART.

(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1451/26096704591_05c5040513_z.jpg)

"STF" 2275 is in the car and running.  Hell if I can call it STF anymore, damn thing cost $$.

I changed the fuel pressure regulator from the chrome holley dead head type to an Aeromotive X1 in preparation of the big engine.  While I was building the pan I had installed two 3/8" stainless lines, so running a bypass regulator was an easy task.  The fuel pressure holds steady at 3lbs with the holley red pump.  The X1 is also the first regulator that Aeromotive makes that you can swap out the spring/diaphragm and convert it to 35-75psi for FI (conversion cost is about 60$).

I've taken it for a short drive down the street, but I haven't been able to get after it.  It does feel stronger than it did last year and responds to throttle changes quicker.  The jet stack is currently 70/120 idles, 175/200 main/air.  I tried 60s for idles and even though I could get it to idle fine, it had a huge flat spot while driving.  There is a lot of contradictory stuff on the internet about jetting for elevation.

I am still planning on upgrading the exhaust to a 1-3/4" large flange with a stinger.  I'll be ready for the track Sunday either way.

(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1462/25650183464_01e29582c0_z.jpg)

Nice 8)  what advance springs do you have in the MSD? also jetting sounds normal for lower altitude but give it what it wants :)  Do you run much more timing than down the hill?

cheers Richie

WRONG  I think it has the two light silver springs, which would be the most aggressive curve.  I am currently at 10 degrees @ idle.  I'm sure it would tolerate more timing due to the elevation.  It wasn't something I had a chance to play around with much last year.

Do you have any recommendations?

So I just double checked the springs.  Looks like I have the two heavy sliver springs installed.  The slowest advance curve.  I remember planning on swapping the springs, I guess I just got caught up in the wiring of the car and it never happened.  So now that brings into question all of the timing adjustments I've made.  Full advance with the two heavy sliver springs doesn't come on until 5500 rpm.

What is going to be a good baseline for springs?

Found this to answer my own question, two light gray springs with as installed stop (blue, 21 degrees advance)

Damn neighbors, I want to go for a test drive tonight!!

http://cal-look.no/lounge/index.php?PHPSESSID=ninvf9k31m72v4924keeonb5i0&topic=18844.0

MSD document
http://08961cd535df487cd1c1-bda68e188d86291aa366f725b37d442b.r87.cf1.rackcdn.com/8485.pdf

,
That's it, two lightest ones is what I would go with, did wonder if that was why it was lazy, I always set advance so it has maximum by 3000rpm,and not do it based on idle advance

cheers Richie

Thanks Richie for pointing this out.  I will test drive this afternoon.  I wonder if this could have been a cause for the serious bog off the line last year.  I attributed most to the engine not being fresh and the altitude, but the slow advance curve could have play a role all along.  Anyways, I'm looking forward to one hell of a year!  The car is going to run so much better!

65s.
What's the altitude?

6200@ house.  5800 @ track.  Currently 42 vents, third hole, F2s. 
The timing made a huge difference.  I don't have any 65s, but I'll order some in.

At that altitude, I'd give the 60s another try. 
Unless you're running race gas?

60s seem to do the trick.  It's amazing how screwed up my timing was and how fat I needed it to make power.  It feels night and day different from last year.

I have a second set of wheels coming to mount the slicks on, and I will be putting radials on the alloys.  It has plates, insurance; I think I need a couple mirrors and we will be ready to cruise the streets.

Engine is 11:1, fk45, I'm running 91 mixed 50/50 with 110 VP.

Glad to hear it's making progress! Can't wait to see how it does!

At that altitude, I'd suggest reducing the amount of race gas.  You may be able to use straight pump gas.  If so, you'll make way more power.

I'll dilute with 91 and give it a try.  The bypass system insures its all mixed up.

I got the radials mounted this afternoon and took it out for a test drive.  Felt pretty good until it started to rain...good thing I wasn't on the slicks.

Wheels arrived and I got the slicks mounted tonight.  Bogarts, 7", 5x130.  I lost 5.6 lbs/wheel for a total of 11.2 lbs of rotating weight.

Last year the car weighted in at 1865 lbs w/ driver.  I have a plan on loosing weight, personally I've given up 15 lbs and plan for at least another 5, maybe 15.  I have a list of things for the car, which includes redoing the D-bars and subframe tie in to drop a couple bars (currently overkill).  I've been waiting on split fenders from Klassic Fab to become available, but after a year of waiting, I'm moving on.  The 3.5-4lb carbon fenders from CC look pretty nice.  Lexan, etc etc, I think I can get the car/myself down to 1750 lbs.  Close to progas weight, with maybe a little more HP.  10s at sea level on motor?

I created a spreadsheet that uses weight and HP to calculate ET using several methods.  I'll post a screen shot tomorrow.  That 125lbs is worth about 3 tenths.

(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1607/26343943802_78e4d51f68_z.jpg)

(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1678/26410353086_beeb5e2803_z.jpg)

Weight, HP and ET

There are several factors.  I believe the Patrick Hale calculations better fit the VW, but I could be wrong.  If you have a chance, check your weight, known HP against your best ET.

(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1653/26377909651_a9f6e14013_b.jpg)

Test and tune
[attachment=1]

Good luck Will :)

cheers Richie

Thanks Richie.

First pass 13.57@99.16, 1.862 60'.  A little faster, a littler more mph than last year.  DA is 7083ft.

Currently 60 idles, 175mains, 200 airs, 32 total.  I'm bumping timing to 34 to see how the mph responds to more timing.

Good luck!

I'm going the wrong way.  Second run, I thought I was hitting the two step through my shifts, ran a 13.738@97.71, 1.825 60'.  I made a third pass with the two step off, it still felt all over a limiter around 6k, 13.858@94.69, 1.801 60'. Is it possible too much timing could cause this??  It didn't feel like detonation.  So maybe a high speed miss?

Any input would be helpful, thanks,

What did you start with for timing?  I would go 2 degrees other way and see what mph is

I started at 32, then bumped to 34.  What is unusual is the shift light starts flickering and going crazy, like its incorrectly measuring rpm, or the digital 6 is telling it incorrectly.  I've checked all my plug wires, they are tight and well spaced.

Any corrosion inside the distributor? Where are you shifting? Sounds like an ignition issue to me.

Attempting to at 7k, but really when it hits this flat spot because of the ignition, 6k ish.

That sounds like an interference issue with the Digi 6, pretty common, does the twin wire cable from dizzy to Digi 6 cross any other power cables or wires? seen that cause it

Yes, it runs in the same loom as the coil trigger wires.  I guess you found the cuprit.

i literally thought the same two things, looking at that pic  ;D

yes, my wife's sea stone table is pretty cool. ::) :)

After Richie's last post I loaded up and headed home.  Maybe MSD should put this in there installation guide...wait, they did.  F

I have pulled the trigger wiring, I need to make a decision on the best way to run it.  It will either be near the alternator wiring (passenger side), or the coil (drivers).  I'm think it might be worth buying the MSD shielded cable.

It was a fun day at the track.  My family came out, we BBQd burgers and hotdogs.  The boys got to watch a bunch of fast cars and also mine.

And while you had fun at the track we got snow here in Norway... dam!

Great updates! Highly appreciated. I hope you can identify the "flat spot" I know a couple of guys have experienced the same here in Norway and it was due to a faulty Digital 6+ unit. Take the car to a rolling road dyno where you will be able to dyno and tune the car safely.

Best rgs
BB

The track was scheduled to open last weekend but we got over a foot of snow.  I had been impatiently waiting.

I ordered enough 18/2 shielded + drain cable and the MSD plug ends to build my own cable.  I considered the MSD shielded, but at only 6' it wasn't going to be long enough.  The cable + ends came in at about the same cost.

I hear you on the dyno, but it's difficult to pull away from the day job to get to a dyno during hours.  However, the 4" engine will get the full treatment.  Pistons, cylinders and cam should be in this week.

Pistons/cylinders and cam arrived this week.  I mocked up and measured deck height yesterday.  Need a fair amount trimmed from the cylinders.  They will get sent back to Shawn to trim down.

I installed the cam and started to dial it in.  Does anyone have profile data on the FK-89?  Detailed angle vs lift data?  I plotted this cam every .010 up to .100, then every .020 after that.  I would like to compare it against a FK-89 in excel.

Right now I am at IVO 31.5 BTDC, IVC 70.0 ABDC, 281.5 @ .050" with a 109 intake lobe center line.  This is with the "zero" washer.  I've read that 104-106 is the recommended intake lobe center line.   Any thoughts?

4 degree washer put me at 105.75 intake lobe center line.  Sounds about right to me

Back to the track tonight after the rewire.  Two passes, same result, on the trailer it goes.  MSD Digital 6 Plus = suck

I'm glad you're updating this thread. It's been a great watch.

Thanks, I've enjoyed sharing the build.

I went to the track today, 

The good... Ran a 13.45 @ 98.88, with a 1.766 60'. PB ET and 60'.
The bad... I thought battery voltage was the cause of the MSD cutting out.  I was wrong.  Still hitting a wall.
The ugly... And oh it's ugly... Broken ring and pinion.  I've got no one to blame but myself.  I knew better than to run the stage 2 with black magic, but I did it anyway.  I had it and didn't want to wait on a stage 1 to put the car together.  The clutch is like a on/off switch.  It caused a red light on my second pass as I was trying to preload the trans.  The car lunged forward.  My third pass, which was during eliminations, I didn't want to red light, so I went light on the preload and kaboom!!

Car is already apart.  I hope I can get it fixed this week.  My mother is in town Friday and I was planning on taking her to the track to watch the races.

Any recommendations on a MSD?  I was thinking 7 due to being analog, it it would need to be the 7AL3 due to have retard for NOS later on.

And some more in the weeks,  I picked up a parts car that has near correct firewall and luggage tray.  It also was sitting on a 53 pan, which I am going to build out with the narrowed torsion, but no trams raise.  Then redo part of my cage to save a bunch of weight and make it a little more streetable.

What does your ignition do?
Does it just shut off like you switch off the ignition key?
And does it fires up again after some time?
I have the same probleme with mine (mine is a 6T).
And with mine it seems like a bad magnetic pick up in the distributor.
You can check that if it is still good or not.

Henk!!!

I've known so many people with MSD issues! Are there no alternatives?

i've used 4 Crane Hi-6 units, and anecdotally at least I haven't heard of one going poop or having intermittent issues (maybe they have, just I haven't heard of them), been running them for quite a while now when I need a big spark and a few extra features.

Ignition cuts out above 5500-5800 depending on the pass.  The shift light flashes, which made me believe the box was turning off and on.  That led me down the low battery voltage route.  Wasn't it.

I just measured the pickup, 557 ohms, so between the 500-700 ohms for a "good" pickup.

I think it's the box.  I've read these digital 6 plus are hit and miss.

Crane is a option, but I've read issues as well.  MSD has the lion share of the market, so the naturally have more failures.

Video of it crapping all over itself.  You can hear it through first gear and before every gear shift.

https://youtu.be/PLK3XDaUQos

13.45 pass

https://youtu.be/YT5r_cCSTCI

Time to buy a Megasquirt. Ditch the distributer all together, run the box ignition only for now. It'll make swapping to efi that much easier. It'll also handle nitrous control/retard, 2 step, max rev, and total control of the timing map.

It is looking more and more like the route to go.  I fear all MSD products at this point.

My reluctance has been to put a laptop in the car and just make it EASY, but this MSD experience has been anything but.

What setup do you recommend?  I was looking at the ms3 w/ expansion, build it myself so it is easy to repair.  (No surface mount). Direct fire LS coils in wasted until I get my hands on a cam sensor.

Way back in my megasquirt days I fried the ignition optoisolator that watches the trigger signal.  I had an old direct TV box and was able to pull one out and put the car back together before I could get one delivered.

It all just depends on what you want to do. Personally I am an MS3 fan, but MS2 is very much up to the task. MS3 definitely gets more developer attention and has better features for us racer types. The 3.0 board is great. I built one yesterday  ;D, and Saturday...very popular and very upgradable.

Give me a list of things you want the car to be able to do tomorrow and I'll be able to give a better idea of what you need.

Make a clean pass ;)

I downloaded tuner studio and looked through all the options.  If I was to do ignition, I would want four coil drivers without a external module and it looks like that is a expansion feature.  Obviously vacuum advance is a positive for streetability and light throttle performance.  Nitrous retards, 2 step.  Is really the only requirements.

"Clean" engine bay, limited clutter.  != 4 coils.  With the plan to add a firewall and luggage tray area like factory, I was going to move the coil inside the car and use a through firewall deal for the coil wire.  Not quite as clean unless I was to do coil on plug.

The positives are Complete spark control, FI potential, E85 easy with FI, turbo (long way out if ever on the 4" engine, heads are fly cut to 45cc). Negatives are wiring is questionable, I'm not a huge fan of the Db37s, laptop required, initial costs,

I wouldn't say overwhelming, I've done it before, it's just more work.  Lazy me, yes.  But I'm certainly entertaining the idea, and it's honestly the reason I haven't pulled the trigger on another msd box.

Wasted spark = 1 good coil instead of 4 and plenty enough spark for your application.

Again thank you for updating your project thread here on The Lounge!

-BB-

Totally agree :) Its all I have on old cabrio and it fires it no problem with a really old DTA ecu and no ignition amplifier on methanol and 30lbs of boost

Did you talk to MSD at all about the problems Will?

cheers Richie

When you order pistons order them with custom dish, 20cc + is possible, then just get a little chamber work done to gain some cc there as well, Johannes did mine that way

cheers Richie

Seen this?
http://www.thedubshop.net/#!products/c17av (http://www.thedubshop.net/#!products/c17av)
It'll do what you want. Onboard o2 is pretty awesome too. Wasted spark is easy to do also. Supposedly this can control nitrous if you don't want sequential. Or you can do a table switch type arrangement when on the gas where it just switches to a completely new spark map when the (separate)nitrous is activated.

On the other hand MS3 and MS3-Pro can datalog without the laptop installed...that was my main reason for going MS3 back in 2010, the boost control options too...

Richie, I did talk to MSD but they basically said if the box fires at low RPM, there could be nothing wrong with it.   Ahh right.  And the lady that does the RMAs was out sick so call back in a few days.  And don't believe all the issues people have on the Internet, they are lies, because MSD boxes never fail it's all poor installation...haha.

Chip, I checked out Mario's ECU.  I think I would rather go down the MS3X route.  I printed out the scematics and started sketching up a wiring diagram to fit my car, it doesn't look so bad with ignition only.  I've been doing a little homework on coils.  It looks like the ls2 coils could be hidden fairly easy, with short plug leads.  The ign-1a coils also look good and what I've read is they can put out a serious spark if you crank up the dwell.  I'll get the ball rolling soon.

Cylinders arrived today, cut to legth.  It looks like stock length head studs will be perfect.  Next step is to re-check deck heights, mark Pistons to be trimmed (balance deck), and punch valve centers for pockets. Only studs and pushrods left!

Sounds well thought out. I always like to recommend the ms3 variants, simply because it is their best and newest. But they can be a bit busier than the average ms install. I would recommend NOT going with the relay board. Doesn't suit a 3x install very well.
Let me know if I can help in any way. I had a 3x setup before I had the Pro. It was a nice unit, I swapped mainly for the better AMP connectors.

Been a while since my last update.  I shipped the Digital 6 Plus back to Jegs and replaced it with a 6AL-2, ignition issues are resolved.  I raced at the Import Tuner Mayhem a couple weeks ago in Denver, the car ran well with a best of 13.46@100.39mph.    That pass was with a 1.9 short time, which was due to wheel spin I guess from a better ignition.  I've had a 1.77 short before, so there is some improvements to be had.

This weekend we traveled to Dallas for a family event, I took the opportunity to bring the car and do a little Friday night drags near sea level.  This was at a 1/8 mile track (600' altitude), best time was a 8.07@84.22mph.  This converts to a 12.86 using the Wallace calculators, so the car was running good.  It's at least 4 tents faster than my best 1/8 mile run at altitude.  I did manage a 1.721 short time, fastest so far for the car.  I also managed to hang the wheels for the first time, what a blast.

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7543/27337307500_013d298ab6_h_d.jpg)

Glad to hear you are getting things sorted out!

Thanks Chip.  I was seriously considering the MS3 but couldn't bring myself to spend the extra cash. I've spent a small fortune on the 4" engine already and didn't want to spend anything else that wouldn't  contribute to it being finished.  It worked out well with Jegs refunding for the 6+, where MSD would not.

I've been working on piston valve interference.  I hope to have it done in the next week or so and have the Pistons sent for valve reliefs.  It's taken a little longer than I thought.

Working on plumbing and I would appreciate some advice.

I will be running a Jaycee bypass pump cover dumping back to the sump, on a 30mm pump.  I will also use the Jaycee oil control system filter head as a replacement to the case pressure relief system, dumping back to the sump .  I have a Mocal thermostat, and a oil cooler.  

Two configurations
#1, pump cover to filter head IN, bypass to the sump, filter head OUT to the thermo stat, return from the thermostat back to the case.  Thermostat connected to cooler as usual.

+ bypass oil does not get cooled, only the oil fed to the bearings is cooled.  Draws less power, could maybe run a 26mm pump.

#2, pump cover to thermostat, return from thermostat to filter head IN, bypass to the sump, filter head OUT to return to the case.

+all oil is cooled, even the oil returning through the bypass.  Maybe this helps keep engine temps down?  There will be a pressure drop across the cooler and lines.  HP = Flow Rate x Pressure, so it requires power to move that oil and cool it.

[attachment=1]

I wouldn't put un filtered oil into cooler, I would go with option one and I think you should be ok with 26mm pump on a N/A engine, another option I have seen is run only bypass oil through cooler, this is really only useful when running cooler at front of car as you get a real pressure drop running from pump to front and back to case so cooling pressure relief oil doesn't affect engine oil pressure

cheers Richie

Thanks Richie, I will go that route.  26mm pump as well.

Does anyone see any objections to running a shorter oil filter?

This is the go-to PH8A/HP1 etc
HP-3001 http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=HP-3001
but I am considering this filter
HP-2004 http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=HP-2004

it is the equivalent filter, but shorter by 1.7".  It would give me a little additional clearance to the exhaust so its not picking up more heat and it will allow me to run an exhaust wrap.  I don't see the size as a problem, this engine isn't going 3000+ miles between oil changes, so the filtration capacity is not going to be tested.  I can't see the engine having flow requirements to require the long filter either.

Update

Sled tins modified, oil drains from the cylinder heads to the sump.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8484/28367036745_8259a9ee8b_z.jpg)

Bracket built for oil cooler lines.  Plan is for quick disconnects up to the thermostat.  (easy to pull the engine)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8598/28367066195_6b0e614dd5_z.jpg)

Engine tin modified/fitted.  Includes 36hp front tin to fit the firewall once it is replaced on the body.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8637/28084420800_132127d991_z.jpg)

Pistons notched.  I pulled all the tin yesterday and check valve clearance on #1, no issues.  (w/ Pauter 1.4s, which measure 1.44).  Waiting on JPM 1.45s 5 stud.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8877/28263384302_66ae484384_z.jpg)

I cc'd the pockets and measured about .2cc on the exhaust and .8cc on the intakes.  I was expecting more volume.  SO, I found this calculator to verify my results.
https://rechneronline.de/pi/cylindrical-wedge.php

Inputs
Radius of cylinder = 2.5cm (50mm diameter pocket)
Height = .2413cm (.095" deep, 2.413mm, however you look at it)
Angle = 80 degrees  (now this one is tricky, if the pocket breaks out of the piston at the center mark, that's 90 degrees, if before the center mark, like in my situation it is less than 90 degrees, I ASSUMED 80 degrees, it might be a little more or a little less, but close enough for a confirmation.  If the entire valve is sunk into the pocket, it would be 180 degrees.  Hope this makes sense, it took a while to figure out their description).

Output = .774cc  ...intake only  measurement ~ calculation, that is the results I was looking for ;)

notes: keep your units the same, cm*cm*cm = cc.  if you use millimeters, be sure to convert to CCs.  Its just easier to use cm though.

Total pocket volume per piston is approx. 1cc.  That puts my compression at 12.8:1 for this fire breather.

In conclusion, EVERYTHING has taken longer than expected.  The JPM rockers are in customs, once they get here I can double check valve clearance (which I've calculated to a 1.5 rocker and will still be safe), so no expected issues there.  Then measure for pushrods.  I'm planning on a set of Manton stage 5, double taper, 3/8" to 7/16 to 3/8", thick wall; springs at full lift will be 720lbs.

Rotating assembly going to balancing this week.  

Rockers - > Pushrods - >  Going Fast

Couple minor setbacks.
*Pistons needed to be notched a little deeper for piece of mind
*Pushrods hitting Jaycee tubes.  Order Pauter tubes.  Wait.  Pushrods hitting Pauter tubes.  Weld heads, send to Shawn to have the pushrod tube hole moved based on actual geometry.  Shawn cranked these things out for me, huge thanks to him.
*Everything looks good, build it.
*Rev6 clutch disc needed some massaging.  The broaching wasn't complete near the "snout", a little time with a triangle file and they fit nicely.
*White rhino case needed some serious clearance to get the dual setup to fit.
*Engine turned over without pushrods or rockers, build oil pressure, YES.  Fight to install pushrods and rockers with the roller cam.  HARD, FRUSTRATING.  Do this on the bench and hope to NEVER do it in the car again.
*Fire it up, glass ball stuck open, fuel EVERYWHERE.  Fix glass ball.  Run for a few minutes.  Idle too low, engine dies.  Restart, backfire through carb, car catches fire from previous fuel spill.  Fire extinguisher empty, wife used it a few weeks ago on the BBQ grill, had to use the hose.
* Engine completely disassembled within a few hours, parts sitting in diesel.  Everything is clean, ready for reassembly.
*75% wiring repaired, still need to fix the tail light wiring harness that was melted due to the fire.  Nothing with the exception of paint and wiring was damaged.  There was black soot on the carb and intake, but it all wiped off.  Just left over fuel being burned off.
*paint work, uh yeah, its not pretty, but it wasn't to begin with.  Maybe it will kick me in the ass and get the ball rolling on making this a true looker.

Positives - it sounded badass, before it caught on fire ;)
Lesson learned - if there is a fuel leak, clean it up, hose it down, dilute that shit.  Make sure the fire extinguisher isn't' empty.  Already a nice big new one in the garage.  New one under the sink for the wife.  Get more sleep.  Stop trying to make unreasonable deadlines.  Have fun, less stress.

Tall pushrod cup lifter?

I run the Pauter tubes backwards (large end at case, fits the wasserboxer case better) and didn't have rubbing issues with either a tall or short pushrod cup lifter, but I don't have as large OD pushrods as you (nor the same heads or rockers)...however, I hope the geometry issue wasn't due to tall pushrod cup lifters.

I don't know if it is what you consider tall.  They are long lifters.  It's just they are ment for a v8 where the weight of the pushrod keeps it in the cup.  The clearence issue was not on the lifter side, but the head side.  The pushrod tube hole had robe moved by a 1/4"-3/8" in some cases.

Hopefully I can get it back together this weekend.

That is the tall variety. Even V8's have lifters with recessed cups. The tall lifters on our engines increases the pushrod angle; was wondering if that increased pushrod angle was the source of your clearance issues.

Increased pushrod angle is absolutely the cause of the issue on the head end.  The 1/2 side needed the tubes moved more than the 3/4, makes since due to the cylinder arrangement over the lifter bores.

FWIW (and I made the same comment in Richie's thread), I had significant lifter bore wear with the tall ISKY lifters with a mild roller cam, 440lbs over the nose, at 5000 miles (daily driven). The pushrod angle reflects the lateral forces into the lifter bore. I had my bores re-sleeved and replaced the tall ISKY's with Pauter (Crower) roller lifters; bores look good 15K miles later. I don't know what kind of miles you're planning on running on the street, but something to keep in the back of your mind especially with those stout springs you're running. There is no free lunch...any time we think we're fixing one problem (long pushrods), we're creating others.

As it has much more interference with heads than mine did and I think I have less stroke and shorter rods so angle should be worse I am thinking the rocker ratio has a lot of affect, I have bigger ratio so longer rocker and less issues. Just a thought :)

cheers Richie

How's the build coming along?

+1. I like this build-up.
 8)

Thanks! 

I've been busy!

I had the big engine back together for a short time, one pass down the street resulted in two broken rockers.  it was the two rockers where the pushrods jumped, so maybe my fault, but I don't think the rockers can stand the spring loading.  Heads and rockers are sold.  Shawn is building a set of 910s with T&D rocker setup, big CFMs.

I cut the cage out.  Finished building out the other pan, just needs fuel lines.  Started sanding the body, getting ready for paint, building new cage floor plates.  This time the cage is integrated into the body, nothing down to the pan.  A-pillar plates are 4"x9"x.125", notched around the a-pillar.  Main hoop sits on plinth boxes built into the heater channel.  I ran everything by the main NHRA tech guy in the region and he said it will all pass Cert.

Plan is to have the chromoly cage finished thanksgiving.  Then start getting the body work knocked out.

I'll get some picture up in a couple days.
 

(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5524/30433155822_08e313bbf0_z.jpg)

(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5539/30513730846_cb04155987_z.jpg)

(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5501/29919177084_d54926ddd7_z.jpg)

(https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8566/30462217431_c26aa51468_z.jpg)

Wow! That is what I call a decent thread update. Please keep`em coming!

-BB-
Norway

Amazing work, been catching up on this thread, great too see an update.

Not much for words on the last update.

I've replaced the firewall and package tray.  Its not a split with the "hump" in the package tray or with the access panel, but close enough for me.  I didn't want to hold out for a split and have the car sitting forever.

The cage is WAY lighter.  So for anyone thinking of caging their car, go moly the first time and never look back.  I have a spreadsheet and based on redoing the cage, Imy estimate is I will save 70-80lbs.  So much extra weight, Those 6X6 plates doubled over and bolted are lbs!!  So the car is going on a serious diet.  The goal is supergas weight, 1725lbs w/ driver, but I think I can do better, like 1675lbs.

The new pan is awesome.  It is in much better condition than the old.  I went with the WW pan halves, they are solid, although might have added a few pounds in the wrong direction.  I am going to redo the wheel tubs.  Ditched the 1" trans raise.  I have a new autocraft rear apron along with WW quarter panels and bumper brackets.  Apron will be made removable. 

Body was sanded down to bare metal, then primed with master series.  I like the stuff, although it is nasty due to the aromatic drying process (draws moisture out of the air to cure) which means if you don't wear a full face mask, it pulls moisture out of your lips, nose and EYEs.  Full face 3M respirator is a requirement IMO.

Progress has been moving at a pretty good pace.  I've been busting balls before the weather gets here.  I hope I can get it back together for next spring because I'd really like to do some racing next year.

I might upgrade the 2275 over winter.  I REALLY want to try a set of Ultra Wedgeports and some compression, along with a 86C.

Looking good! I'd consider grafting in an access panel in the rear luggage tray - makes clutch adjustments so much easier, and as for the pan halves adding a few pounds - I'd rather have weight low down and remove it higher up!

Looks great,now get it running

Time for an update.  Don't worry Eddie, it will be running.

Lots of things brewing in the engine department.  Waiting on my 910s.  Picked up a set of PG heads to throw together a high compression PG type engine.  Street engine is getting a 86c.

Dash for 2017
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2571/33080289865_b889ecedf8_z.jpg)

Staging brake setup.  I machined the pedestal to fit the tunnel radius.  couple iterations with a boring head and dialed it in.  underside is hollowed out to save those precious ounces.
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3941/32924080132_452512b10a_z.jpg)

Sitting a little low in the rear but that is easily fixed.
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3792/33080285855_e073f9f679_z.jpg)

Brilliant work! Looks really mean...in the side on shot.

Thanks Andrew.  

I'm keeping busy trying to get the car finished before our third child gets here (ETA is April 3rd), so I'm down to the wire.

The car has gone through a complete transformation this off season.  Started with cutting the mild steel cage out and replacing it with chromoly.  Body had to be sanded to bare metal to cover of my torching of the paint last year.  Everything on the car has been considered for weight savings.  My new estimate for weight this year is 1685 w/ driver, that's assuming I can loose the fifteen pounds of baby weight that I've put on.  Sympathy weight if you will ;), I sure did enjoy eating though, now I get to enjoy the treadmill.

Couple shots of the engine bay.  I machined a bracket for the fuel pressure regulator, mounted the y-block.  Not realy happy with the 90 degree to 90 degree.  I might make my own this summer.  Through firewall plug for ignition coil.  I figured that would unclutter the engine bay a little, one less set of wires back there.

[attachment=1]

Built a new breather box.  Weighted in at 3.9lbs lighter than the old box.   Physically smaller, thinner material.  Stickers are a bit lighter ;)  Cost was like $22 for the fittings, I had the filter from the old box.
[attachment=2]

I've lost 15 pounds in the last two months solely by going vegan. It did the trick, but I miss cheese. And bacon.

Swap that aluminium alternator stand with a factory mag one ;)

Zach, not sure if you are being funny.... but if there is a Magnesium alt stand I want one, how do you tell them apart, any particular years?

1973 and up came with an alternator. Anything aftermarket is going to be aluminium and say "firing order", factory will be magnesium and say "Zündfolge". Notice the shape difference in a generator stand (left) vs an alternator stand (right). The inner radius is the same.

(http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1228525.jpg)

But how am I going to remember the firing order?!?

I might have one in my stash.  If I can't find one, I bet a swap meet would be able to  turn one up.

You may have to brush up on your german number reading skills...
Glad to see you are moving forward! Gonna bring it out to SLC for the msvwra race this year?

LOL, now that I'm on a PC I can read the numbers on the stand.  I'll keep brushing up on my German numbers though.

SLC is on my calendar but I don't know if I can commit yet.

Shoot, my car runs and drives and i can't commit for sure, probably not for sure until the day of  :-\

That's interesting, how much lighter, as an estimate?

Will,

I see one at a swap meet today and it was $5 so grabbed it, if you need it just cover the $5 & post and its yours :) If not I will just keep it

Andrew it weighs 14.7oz and the aftermarket ally version weighs 1 lb 6.6oz so decent saving

I'm in.  I'll send you a PM.

Thanks!

Thanks Richie, worth keeping an eye open for then.

I'm trying to get this "Pro-Gas" engine sorted out for the beginning of the season.  Still waiting on the 910s, and then there will be a time period on the big engine to get it sorted out.  I didn't want to sit out part of the season, and I want to go fast, so the street engine is set aside and this Pro-Gas configuration will get finished.

Over Christmas, I started building a piston vice for cutting valve pockets.  I finished it this last weekend and cut the pistons for the PG engine.

He is the vise in the Bridgeport.  Its basically a clamshell, with a delrin insert.  The insert is machined to work up to about a 103mm piston, so it will cover the 101.6 nicely.  The valve angle is fixed at 8 degrees, which lays the pocket back just a bit relative to the valve angle.  I figure I've got about $80 into it for the aluminum block ($2/lb bought as scrap), the delrin (which I have a nice size chunk left over for another project), and the hardware.  It was a worthwhile project for the mill.  I made a lot of chips and was able to build a tool that is functional.

(https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3684/33711284152_6e98c24e10_z.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2852/33711284802_913e36a9b0_z.jpg)

(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2921/33711285612_c364b17934_z.jpg)

Diet
Last season I built a spreadsheet that included every cage bar, and estimated the weight savings; I also identified other areas of weight savings.  Based on my ET calculations, I would net about 3 tenths; putting the car pretty close to the 12.99 number without any engine changes.  So with the winter goal of pulling some weight out of the car, I embarked on a complete rebuild of the chassis, cage, etc.  With all the changes, I estimated taking the 1845lb pig w/driver down to about 1685-1690lb.  Well, I'm happy to say I was off a little bit in the calculations...or the minor things that I didn't track, just added up fast.  Friday I ran across the same set of Bandimere scales at 1625lbs w/ driver.  60lbs better than my estimate.  In shock, we questioned the scales.  Its just a number anyways right?  All that really matters is how the car runs down the track.

Exercise
Well I finished the "pro gas" engine.  This engine was built with a universal mag case I picked up a few years ago, a used CB 82mm.  Pistons and cylinders from an engine I had when I was in college!  I bought the heads, a set of Scat H-beams, a top secret cam (not really, and I bought it with a Christmas gift certificate! ha) and a nice shiny Jaycee pulley.  I used the 51s on my 4" engine, because I've got other plans there, so I'm selling my Spanish 48s to a buddy.

Results
Thursday night, I was loading up the trailer and took the car down the street and I was surprised.  It sounded nasty.  It felt a little scary.  I told my buddy Robert I was a little scared of it, he said we will call it a healthy respect.  I decided since it was a new chassis, and its been 6 months since I was behind the wheel, I would launch it, race to 1/8 mile and shut it down.

1.607 60', 12.243@108.62mph, First pass, It felt too good! I couldn't shut it down!
1.719 60', 12.828@107.52mph, ahh tire spin and some shake.  Missed 2nd gear.
1.666 60', 12.125@110.42mph, moving in the right direction.  I like that MPH.
no 60' time, 12.037@109.72moh, yeah baby this is going to run an 11 at altitude.
1.596 60', 12.098@109.58mph, and a storm is rolling in...

I just couldn't get that 11, and I don't know if I will have this kind of weather all year long.  Maybe a Wednesday night test, or maybe a late fall test.

There is still plenty in the engine to be found.  I didn't touch the jetting, and it felt like it nosed over a little in 4th.  I'm also at 32 degrees and they usually like a little more timing up here.  I need to pick up some bigger mains and take a look at airs.

Its going to be a fun year.

Glad to hear its on the track and that your changes worked well! 12.0 at altitude is great! Bring that thing to SLC 6 weeks!

Chip, I plan on making the salt lake race.  I'll be driving in Thursday night after work, so I might not be in town until the early hours, but I'm going to be there.  Assuming the car isn't broken.

Will

Salt Lake was fun.  The car ran hard, three 11 second passes, 11.99, 11.799 and a 11.712@113.6mph.  First round elimination due to a red light.  I'm going to spend some time working on the chassis to slow the vehicle reaction time down so I don't have to wait after the last yellow.

Nice job on the new PB! Impressive numbers for an NA car at altitude for sure! Well done. I may have to try making the tow to GJ this year to finish off the season. Gonna see if i can't pinch another second off my time during the next couple of months. Thanks for making the trip, hopefully the trip home was uneventful.

Well done Will, all your hard work is paying off, that's good ET for that altitude 8)

cheers Richie

Chip,  I'm glad you made it out.  It sounded like you were getting things sorted out as the day went on.  I don't think dropping another second will be a problem.  

The trip home wasn't too bad.  I left the track around 10:30pm and was back in Denver for my 7 years olds baseball game at 11am.  I was drained the rest of the weekend.  

I'll see you in Grand Junction!

Thanks Richie.  This little PG engine has been amazing.  I never expected it to run this hard and I think there is still more to come!

Nice work! I wondered why you ducked out early. Now it all makes sense.

.

Big engine is finished, well at least partially.  Enough to get the car down the track for the first half of this season.  I'm going to run it with the 51.5s until I pull all the EFI parts together.

(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4672/39905339302_653c21598b_z.jpg)

(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4627/39039291315_edd8d2c58c_z.jpg)

(https://ci-39905330472-4ba642db.http.atlas.cdn.yimg.com/flickr3/23271384@N04/39905330472/39905330472_1080p.mp4?dt=flickr&x=1517110483&m=video%2Fmp4&fn=39905330472_1080p&bt=0&a=flickr&d=cp_d%3Dwww.flickr.com%26cp_t%3Ds%26cp%3D792600246%26mid%3D39905330472%26ufn%3D39905330472_1080p&s=5efe3990a4b2d9cad2fce79330801bd8)
Video.  Difficult to be around it without ear protection.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4676/39905330472_fb432671a9_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23Niftb)IMG_3926 (https://flic.kr/p/23Niftb) by hotstreetvw (https://www.flickr.com/photos/86_ski_nautique/), on Flickr

Very excited to see this go down the track this year. Gonna put it on a dyno before leaning on it hard?

I think so.  We've got far to long before actual racing starts and I'm jonesing to play around with it.  I swapped the 51s straight over from my 2275, so I need to change vents and jets.  It would be nice to get it dialed in and see what its capable of with a 48 vent.

I made a couple changes to the car this winter in preparation for this engine.  Previously, the coil was mounted inside the car and I used a through firewall deal for the coil wires.  I moved the coil to the back of the fan shroud and was able to weld up the holes in the firewall.  My plan is to mount some of those badass DIYautotune coils under the package tray on each side of the trans when I switch to EFI.  I also had the fuel pressure regulator mounted on the firewall, its now under the package tray, not as easily accessible, but gets the job done and cleans up the firewall.  All in an attempt to make a "clean" engine bay.  I also replaced the rear quarter / bumper bracket area on both sides, then removed what I needed to get the engine to slip in and out.  Added a rear apron, dzus'd on, so now I can fit a decklid and be a proper "street" car.

Here is a quick shot of the Geers 910 heads.  Soda can for reference.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4640/38074814105_2635ed09f4_z.jpg)

Results:
Dynojet Chassis Dyno, Finish Line Automotive & Performance in Denver

Uncorrected
203 rwhp @ 6900 rpm
166 ft-lbs @ 4900 rpm

SAE Correction based on baro pressure, temp, humidity
242 rwhp @ 6900 rpm
197 ft-lbs @ 4900 rpm

Air fuel was pretty much all over the place.  We ended up with a 185 main, 175 air and it was still leanish up top so we were not able to get real aggressive with timing.  Its @ 30 degrees.  I figure with the drive train loss, its about 285hp.

It seems like the HP peaked very early and then remained flat all the way to 8000+ rpm.  My calculations estimated it would peak at 7900 rpms. 

I think the 51.5s w/ 48 vents is choking it.  Anyone has any thoughts?  Whats the max HP you have seen through a IDA with 48 vents?

Pull #4, near peak of all the runs, one of the smoothest curves.  Seems flat?
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/809/39186318870_851f90e3f3_z.jpg)

Pull #8, peak HP, weird shit going on up top.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/804/40995771861_dd86a83554_z.jpg)

Race update.  NorthStar Dragway in Denton.  Car went 6.89@99.9mph.  Temps were high 90s, its Texas, about 3000' DA. Best 60' was a 1.4953, the car has gone a little faster with a 1.489 in New Mexico. It also made a couple 100.7mph passes but 6.9 ETs

Stout.
My sports (sorta! LOL!) bike does similar numbers, but with a much slower 60ft, interesting.

Do you still have the car Mr hotstreetvw ?

Just wondering also if the big engine made it over to injection ?

Thanks
Darren

I watched a video on YouTube the other day, with a TxVWDRA link of some description. Lo and behold, what's in the middle of the action but this bug!

Was it a fairly recent event Neil ?

This thread hasn't had an update for nearly 2 years  :o

He is pretty active on Facebook, the car is very fast! EFI within the last couple of years.

Thanks Chip but that's as far as I go then, no Facebook for me  8)

Yes, within the last couple of months. I'll try to find it.

https://youtu.be/6K8m_MbGUeg

Good spot - thanks Neil

4:10 with the green door yeah

That's the one!