The Cal-look Lounge

Introducing my US model 69. I had a thread here last year on the predecessor to this bug which was a very clean and og 77 bug. I had been collecting parts to build a 2276 with the intention of fitting it in the 77. However I always had the nagging voice in my mind telling me the 77 was the wrong car and was more suited to a low resto cal style.

(http://i.imgur.com/el6Sz9S.jpg)

I had been watching the classifieds on all the usual sites for a 68-70 bug more suited to the look I wanted. This 69 came up on thesamba and it ticked a lot of boxes for me, the year was right, the colour was right, the car looked pretty clean and being a US model it came with IRS rear as a bonus.
After a few emails and lots of pictures and a couple of videos from the seller i decided to take a chance and buy it.
This is the day it arrived.

(http://i.imgur.com/Z9uEHDEh.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/ttBgmgCh.jpg)


The engine it came with was a good 1600 twin port with kadrons so I managed to sell it to recoup some of the expenses of buying and shipping. I managed to sell the 77 quickly too to free up space for the 69.

(http://i.imgur.com/SxH7ftLh.jpg)

Empty bay soon to be sporting a new 2276

(http://i.imgur.com/u98LJ1mh.jpg)

And the longblock that had been living in my living room for a year now.

(http://i.imgur.com/qS1L78Qh.jpg)

Spec is

Auto linea case
DPR 82mm crank and lightened flywheel
CB 5.4 race rods
Mahle 94mm barrels and pistons
Jeff Denham hot street spec heads 42 and 37mm valves
JPM Raptor cam and lifters 00808
CB 1.4 rockers
Aluminium pushrods and matching springs
Vwspeedshop EFI and crank trigger ignition
Vwspeedshop stainless hideaway exhaust

I took the bug to judgie at RNJ to do a few jobs like fuel lines, fitting mid mount and torque bar. Its finally almost ready and we are booked in next saturday for a half day dyno session. I'm equal amounts excited and nervous,  its been a long time coming together and at times i forget i even own a bug. Hopefully nothing goes wrong and I can get to drive my first hot vw in less than a week now.  ;D

Cool Sleeper?

Good call. I have alloys and big and little tires going on it for now,  but could end up back like the first pic someday.

I would love to build a hot street sleeper. Proper fun

Nice, I really like the way late bugs drive too, miss mine.

Had the same raptor 808 cam in my 2275 with 42/37.5 valves and 45 drla.
Had some ignition problem over 5800 rpm so didn't get any good runs but made 255nm at around 4000 rpm and 200 nm at 2000rpm.
Great driving engine!!

Thats great,  its hard to find feedback for this cam so its good to hear from someone who used one in a very similar engine.

I'll be delighted if mine hits those figures, its 99.9% street car and good driveability is no 1 priority

Cheers. Yes ball joint front irs rear bugs do drive very well. Had one as a daily years ago but it was bog stock 1500. This one should be much more fun :)

Nice project!

Thanks Nico, hopefully worthy of a place in the late lookers thread soon ;)

It's looking promising!

Yeah it was a blast to drive after coming from an FK8 before. But sadly the cam went bad after just 3000 km, fk8 ran 23 000 km.
This time its a new raptor with more duration but TP 56 grams lifters and alu pushrods.
That should be said, the lifters that come with the raptor is some heavy shit... :o

Best of luck on your project! ;)

Sorry to hear yours went bad so soon! 

Thanks for the comparison to the fk8 as when I was deciding on cam it was nearly gonna be fk8 or web 86b. Chose the raptor at last minute after reading lots of positives about johannes work.

Hope mine lasts longer than 3k!  Though if it goes bad I'll use it as an excuse to fit lighter lifters :)

Got the car on the dyno a week later than planned,  circumstances beyond anyones control lead to the week delay.

(http://i.imgur.com/brulQSZ.jpg)

Mixed results is best way to describe the outcome, mapping was taking a while but motor was sounding sweet, very snappy and smooth, mapping rpm increases of 250-300 at a time and was showing 140lbs of torque at the hubs from 2k to 5.5k rpm. Got to 6k and a likely spun rear main stopped play.  Little bit gutted at the time but I've had a few hours to get over it and looking forward to getting it back to finish the mapping.

On the bright side I love how it looks, first time I've seen it on the wheels. Rear needs raising a spline to be perfect.

(http://i.imgur.com/vkkPNIa.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/D4nO8SK.jpg)

Engine getting stripped and fixed hopefully in next few weeks

Been informed the engine is now turning again by hand now it has cooled down. Any suggestions to what caused it to lock up?

Car is looking great, I hope you find out what happened with your engine soon!

Thanks nico  ;D found out today it was oil starvation caused number 2 rod to stick on the crank. No lasting damage luckily apaet from a crank regrind and some new bearings.

Glad to hear there are not huge damages, you'll be able to have it running again soon! 8)

tyre sizes you running on those gas burners, nice bug long axle?

Tires are 165/65 and 205/70 toyos. Stock width beam standard height spindles. Rear is irs with 10mm spacers behind the wheels. Irs is same length as long axle afaik

Well 3 weeks later and no progress made on getting this back together, waiting on a crank grinder before anything can move on.

After thinking about it for the last few weeks I've decided that I'm going to rebuild the engine myself,  it'll be my first complete engine build so I'll be asking for a lot of help and guidance from the good people on here.

I'm going to collect all the parts tomorrow and make a start on getting it all cleaned up over the weekend.

There's a reason number 2 rod bearing got starved of oil though... You need to get to the bottom of that :)

Yeah could be too late to ever know for sure now. I will blueprint everything this time though so it won't happen again

Well today I finally got some time in the garage and I wanted to start learning how to use the new internal and external micrometer sets that I bought.  The important 50-75mm mike is junk as one end isn't set square in the body so I can't get a reliable reading when I try to use it to set up the internal mike.  It'll go back to the supplier tomorrow.

I didn't get too hung up on this as my crank isnt here yet so I cant use it to measure for radial clearance in the mains. I wanted to try check the main bearings for round so I just set the internal mike close to what I needed then used the no1 bearing to zero the dial gauge.

Took a while to get consistent readings but I think I'm there now. I'm a little concerned about no2 bearing as the reading along the split is a good bit bigger than the other 3 readings I'm taking. Around  .08mm bigger. The split in the shell doesn't appear to be perfect in line with the split in the crankcase.

Hard to see in the pic but the split at the bottom looks off, I've been trying to figure out whether sanding the end of that shell a little will reduce or increase the reading on that axis? Or is it not advisable to take a measurement close to that axis on a split bearing? Any advice greatly appreciated.

(http://i.imgur.com/nebhDoC.jpg)

So more of my engine components came home today.

Brand new when fitted berg gland nut and washer. Washer was on back to front, gland nut looks like it was tightened with an impact gun.

(http://i.imgur.com/kORaSKy.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/Sx4qdJB.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/NdcGt4z.jpg)

Race spacer damaged from woodruff key

(http://i.imgur.com/8AsoCeF.jpg)

Evidence of being hammered down with a drift

(http://i.imgur.com/IHOapu9.jpg)

Crank shows galling from cam gear being hammered on the same way.

My rocker shims

(http://i.imgur.com/1xdHfZa.jpg)

Piss poor work. On the brightside lesson learned,  no cowboys will get near my stuff again

That last picture......... Wow

.

This is insane  :o

An £8k engine with parts made from an old paint can???  ::)

I'm looking at your pictures on my phone and the screen isn't great but is that paper/cardboard that was used for the shims  ???

Edit. You answered my question while I was typing - PAINT CAN  :o

Finally got my new crank assembly back from stateside all balanced and ready to go. Took a quick measuremant of the rod journals and they look like 54.97 which should work great with my rod bearings which come to 55.03.

Got the car back home too at last, still plenty to do with it along with building the engine. Really struggling to get time to do anything at the moment as flat out with work including weekends. Summer is gonna slip away if I don't start getting stuff done.

Lovely new crank assembly

(http://i.imgur.com/kvnUk2A.jpg)

And the car back home in the shed at last after being away for 7 months.

(http://i.imgur.com/PuB6wxw.jpg)

Got a few hours in the garage yesterday and managed to get the crank spinning smooth as silk. Took about 5 attempts as had a slight tight spot that needed tracing down. I found it by removing number 1 and 4 bearings and torquing up the case, it  spun perfect so opened it up again and refitted number 1,  torqued it up again and it spun perfect.  Refitted number 4 and tight spot returned so I changed that bearing for another one and finally have it spinning beautifully. Dunno what I did wrong but suspect I may have pinched number 4 somehow.

Happy to reach my first small milestone, next step is get the cam in and set the endplay

(http://i.imgur.com/1evRM55.jpg)

I am sure that you already know but check the alignment of every oil passage in that aluminum case , I have had to modify every case to align with the main bearings. Failing to do so will result in oil restriction or complete lack of oiling . Another thing I continually see is the radius of the crank main journals are so large that they rub the chamfer on the #1  main bearing which will lead to the same problem you had before  .  If I can help contact me and I will be happy to help any way I can. Mike McCarthy

Hi mike thanks for the kind offer,  there's lots I'm not confident with so I suspect I'll be needing advice as and when problems arise. 

I'll be modifying the bearings to align properly with the oil holes for sure. I haven't checked the radius on the crank but I will see what I can figure out with that later today.

The cause of my last lock up was tight rod bearings, I know I have better radial clearance this time. Hopefully the crank having come from dpr will be fine on the radius but I'll check it for sure.

Thanks

 I am sure they do a great job , Jose is a real good guy to deal with . Try using a felt tip marker on the whole beveled surface of the bearing , then push it onto the crank toward the counterweight and while applying pressure rotate the bearing back and forth . When you pull the bearing off look for any shiny spots, there should be no contact in that area. Flange cranks seen to be the worst with this problem. You are right on by using tools to measure (bore guage , Mic ) to actually measure bearing clearance. The days of taking for granted that because you have a new crank, rods ,case and bearings that a set of standard bearings will go right in are gone. It seems like I have to modify every part in some way in order to use them .  Mike

Checked the radius and it's fine, used the felt tip like you suggested and it didn't touch it.

Set the cam endplay at .08mm by sanding the thrust faces of the bearings

Frustrating last couple of hours trying to double and triple check radial clearances on the rods. I initially mic'd my rod bearings a while back and got .05-06mm clearance. Used plastigauge today to confirm and got .045mm. Got the mics out again and now getting .10mm with the mics. Walked away from it in the end as it was getting annoying. Hope to have a full day on it sunday starting from scratch.

Looks like you're doing it properly without that PIRATE.  ::)

I feel for you man, having had a similar experience as you know.

Good progress, keep on truckin'

How are you getting on with this baz?
Found a stock motor yet?
I know of a cheap 03 locally, with a 1600 , but a little endy

Hi tom, making some progress with the engine build,  have a few days off this week so hoping to get more done. Looking at a couple of cheap motors tomorrow with the intention of passing an mot in the next week or so.

How cheap is the 03?

Good to see you got your red car back.

Will pop over one evening and check out your bug

£500. I was going to buy it and break it

Could be intetested if you wanna pass on it. Drop over anytime

I've been making small progress with the engine,  I am happy with the crank and cam and lifters and now the rods and piston heights.
I switched from 5.4 to 5.5 rods which gave me negative deck and varying piston heights when all mocked up. I went through each available combo of rod/piston/location to find what worked and got good results. Discovered i was running 1.9mm deck before with the old rods, wanna get that down 1.25 to give me the compression to match the 10.1 the cam advises.

Thats about as far as i can get now until i get some longer barrels machined to suit. My old mahles are scratched deep so i need new barrels anyway and can do away with spacers this way.

Some boring deck measuring pics that took a good 12 hours to find matching rod /piston combos for each hole.

(http://i.imgur.com/7l2CWV2.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/OQfPyDM.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/nXA2UEt.jpg)


Have a question about my crank and bearings, my crank is straight drilled and doesn't even have troughs around the feeds on the main journals. I've read these cranks should be used with internally grooved bearings. My bearings are external groove type. Am I looking at trouble? 

There are 3 options here,  I can find new bearings, i can machine a groove into my bearings or crank,  or i can not worry about it.  Any advice which is best option?

(http://i.imgur.com/hbZ14hh.jpg)

Ok after a long period of laziness and loss of interest, I'm back on this engine build.

Got my new long barrels and I've got a guy lined up to cut them to length once I work out what I need.

My old barrels are quite scratched up so I'm now wondering if I should re-use the old rings or not. I can't see and nicks or damage on them,  using total seal second rings.

Can anyone advise whether I should get new rings or if the set I have would be ok?  Basically should new cylinders have new rings?

Yes new cylinders should have new rings because used rings have worn themselves into whatever cylinders they were run on. You can re-use cylinders by honing them straight, but not rings. It is an excellent idea to get your new cylinders honed straight because they are never perfect from mass production.

Thanks martin. I had kinda decided to get new ones as whatever scratched my barrels went through the rings too.  There was a lot of debris in that engine when it was pulled apart.

Guess I need a new oil cooler too as who knows what's inside.

What rings should I be looking for?  I have mahle 94mm pistons.

Today I've been installing my long cylinders to try work out how much I need them cut down by to give me the desired deck height.

(http://i.imgur.com/OUFAG18.jpg)


Tried each cylinder on no1 piston location to begin with to check they are all the same length. They appear to be within .05mm if I'm not screwing up my measuring!

I already had worked out matching piston/rod/locations from last time I was working on the motor. I have pretty good numbers in all 4 locations. Numbers 1+2 differ by .01mm and numbers 3+4 differ by .03mm.  

The max difference from one side to the other is .11mm.  

So do I get 2 cylinders cut .11mm shorter than the other 2 to give equal heights from left bank to right?

Do I use the lowest piston for my calculations and have the neighbouring piston crown cut down to match?

What is considered a good tolerance on this?  I dunno if I asked a machinist to remove .03mm from a piston crown would he tell me to get out of his shop :) Is this something thats well within tolerances?

Back to the. .05mm difference on the cylinder lengths,  how do I ask for these to be cut?  Do I need to work out each individual cylinder and how long I need it to be,  or do I just need to ask for x amount to be cut off each cylinder?

On my 2,2l build I had shim one side a bit more under the cyl than on the other side for deck height closer to each. Trimming in a shop would be the better option but time was running...

Good test is even bolting both cyl down with a fixture/straps and check if both are on one height (perfect head sealing), I used a long straight-edge for that step.
I had to fine tune the cyl. lenght (head side) with grinding on a flat glass surface.
Then I fine tuned the deck height to the biggest gap by grinding the pistons on my well beloved glass plate down.

On the 1. site are some pic`s in my notch thread:
http://cal-look.no/lounge/index.php/topic,12030.0.html (http://cal-look.no/lounge/index.php/topic,12030.0.html)

Have fun and nice project with doing it perfect now, that rocker shaft spacers are beyond belief what a pirate!

Where did you get the wheels from, looks like Gas Burners but wide 5, am I right?

  thanks,

Andrew

Thanks felix  :)  I have sent my cylinders today, requested 2 cut   .10mm longer to compensate for the difference.

Thats a good idea grinding the cylinders and pistons to fine tune any differences. I might use that trick when my stuff gets back.

I'm trying my best with the motor, I'm probably being greedy or unrealistic but I'd love to not see the inside again for a long time, and when I do open it again I'd love to find no problems or worn out parts.  

Hi andrew,  they are mahle gas burners,  must be funny camera angle maybe.

What's the PCD they look like 5 lugs?

 thanks,

Andrew

5x130 porsche pattern.  I remember talk of wide 5 being produced by someone in the states but don't think it ever happened.

Cylinders came home from shortening the other day, mocked them up today and turns out the machinist made a balls of them. Instead of getting 2 longer for 3+4 he cut me 2 shorter!

Had enough of it all,  anyone wants to make me an offer on the lot pm me.

Don't give up Baz,
It will be worth it in the end.
Lee

It'll never be worth it Lee,  not even in 20 years will it ever be worth what it's costing. I cannot keep throwing money at it so really feel I should cut my losses and forget about vws.

Shame, but I do understand.
Wish I could afford the burners!
Lee

get 2 new barrels or re cut them all and use a shim/barrel spacer?

The burners are the only thing I won't lose on, got a screaming deal on them.

Can't say the same about the motor, so far I've bought 2 cranks, 2 flywheels, 2 clutches, 2 balancing jobs, 2 sets of barrels, 2 sets of rockers, 2 sets of pushrods, 2 oil pumps, 2 fans, lots of bearings, paid for it to be built, paid for dyno session,  paid a lot of money to a cowboy for very little in return. And all I have is a 10 second video of it on the dyno before it seized! 

It's tough, people and companies have really fucked you over and that's not on.
PM me a price for the burners, have porsche pattern JGE kozmiks (new) I could part ex to keep your car rolling
Lee

Behave Baz, your car needs finishing mate. It will be awesome when it's done, have a few beers and get back on track. The amount of times I've questioned what I'm doing to Fubar is unreal but then I remember why I started it.

I've just realised it's not the complete fuck up I had first thought!  I had been conservative with not going too tight with the deck heights in case my measurements were out a little.
I worked out to leave a little in the cylinders instead of having the piston flush ( copper gaskets in heads).

I mocked up 1+2 and it measured good with about .20mm.  Then tried 3+4 and the piston was hitting the deck height tool.

Had a steak dinner and afterwards realised I might be able to swap 1+2 for 3+4.  Just done that now and I've clearance both sides.
It's less than I wanted and bumps comp up a little but should work?  Will fine tune piston crowns to level things out.

Sorry for the hysterics,  just thought I'd paid for nothing yet again and I hadn't eaten all day!

Excellent news to hear you will finish the engine!
Carry on pls  :)

 :) Too close now to not finish it. Just some headwork needed then rocker set up and it'll be ready to build.

Good stuff. Steak dinner = finished motor  ;D

Yeah hunger and thinking straight doesn't work. Snickers were right about that  ;)

Bodywork and paint weren't in my plans when I bought the car but I've somehow ended up needing both!  I knew the car needed some patches in the rear arches to pass an most but that was all it needed really.
While the car was sitting in my shed after the engine seize up I got a little carried away and tried fixing the terrible paintjob by attempting to colour sand the runs and grit out. This didn't go too well and I decided to bite the bullet and have it all done properly.

So I started digging at the rust and inevitably found more than I first thought. Overall not bad but needing work. Being the fussy bastard that I am I knew I needed to find genuine panels and a good bodywork man for the job. Luckily I found a good guy 5 minutes from my house which was a result. Then I started gathering the bits of metal needed.

Here's what's needed, all genuine vw metal. I still need a driver side crossmember

(http://i.imgur.com/dmpr12w.jpg)

The paint was horrible all over the car. Hence the attempt at fixing it.

(http://i.imgur.com/QL69VoQ.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/KCAT5A0.jpg)

Some old accident damage that was covered in fillers, Darren is going to metal finish this straight again.

(http://i.imgur.com/EzXXsLh.jpg)

Some of the rusted areas

(http://i.imgur.com/aNCIPYm.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/0X97OxI.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/2jaCuFy.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/byoSIZy.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/0kkVXt1.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/LqZCX57.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/rNwRrlH.jpg)


So as all the good bodywork guys have waiting lists,  I've been waiting a while for Darren to find me some time. It's going to him in a weeks time so he can make a start. It's not going to get done all at once, but hopefully most of the welding will get done on this visit. Then back home for blasting and getting things ready for paint in January.

That's bugger all work!   Having seen this in the flesh, it's a fantastic shell to start with. Going to be a lovely street car.

Easy for a man of your talents  ;)

Yeah it's a super straight shell and mostly rust free, specially for a car from east coast USA.  I've faith in Darren to give it the care and attention it deserves. Shouldn't be too shabby when he's finished with it. Staying black too   8)

Good to see your keeping it black ( you won't go back  ;D )

Keeping the trim? Or full on dechromed?

Finally we are getting somewhere. I've got Darren for a week or two so should have a solid straight shell soon.


(http://i.imgur.com/XTIe0np.jpg)

One corner done  8)

(http://i.imgur.com/nL2tkNQ.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/7OMYGV2.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/btLGiqk.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/0QUqBUx.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/yPyoV0f.jpg)

Good to see some progress. Looking good mate 

Thanks mate. Exciting seeing progress at last.

Hi Baz,
Who's doing the work? looks good
Lee

Cheers Lee.  Darren mills is doing it, he's under strict instructions to get it as good as he can  :D

Other side almost done.

(http://i.imgur.com/lyr5Pmc.jpg)

I like this idea for closing up that rust trap of a strengthening panel on the crossmember

(http://i.imgur.com/nrjB2lm.jpg)


Should be back from Darren mid week next week.

Baz, you have nice project !  ;)
I've been looking at your project on the Volkszone from the begening, because I like black bugs with wine red interior (I own one just like that).
Your engine is very interesting, hope that I will see it running...

Good luck, and keep up the good work.

Thanks.  Must have a look at yours to remind me what mine should look like ;)  I've got rid of the red interior,  I have racetrim seats now that'll get covered with dark brown tweed eventually.

I'm aiming to have it done for the drag day, there's lots that can go wrong before then but I'll be doing my best to have it ready.

Thanks.  Must have a look at yours to remind me what mine should look like ;) 
[/quote]

Here you go (for inspiration purposes):  https://goo.gl/vF9hLI (https://goo.gl/vF9hLI)

Nice car.  Hopefully mine will look as good shortly.

Time is running out if this is gonna make drag day,  I was hoping to have a month driving it first too, so that's 4 weeks away  :D

Car was away at cotsweld racecars for some work, it's good to deal with guys like Jim,  first class work and none of the bull you get from a lot of others in the game.

Fuel tank modded for phantom stealth pump

(http://i.imgur.com/kIozj8L.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/DHqJShA.jpg)

Stainless lines to tunnel then stainless lines through the tunnel exiting beside the gearbox nose

(http://i.imgur.com/RYqZA3n.jpg)

Some bracing under the rear luggage tray, will find out if this is effective without being tied into a cage.

(http://i.imgur.com/dC8wv2R.jpg)

Was going to get half cage but changed my mind until after I've used it for a while.  Have mounts ready to go if that happens.

(http://i.imgur.com/35JzGH6.jpg)

Lastly I had the rear drums machined down 10mm and the stub axle threads lengthened so I could get the axle nut tucked in 10mm, means I can fit the caps without using the spacers I had on it before. Much better looking with the tires tucked under the wings.

(http://i.imgur.com/ntoJn2m.jpg)

Nice work  ;D

Looking great Baz!

Nothing to do with me,  all Jims doing  :D

That's ace. No dirty great hole in the tunnel butched out for the pipes. Good work there. 8 know where to send my pan now

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

Nice work, great to see something like this being (re)created.

Andrew

Thanks guys, it's slow going but we're getting there. Paint is on hold as time and finances were too tight to be ready for summer. I'm glad I've held off as I've spent money elsewhere instead on lots of small stuff that's best off done before paint. I'll run it ratty for the summer and so long as the motor works that is  :D

I'm collecting my heads from gac this week, they needed welding as they had the inlet ports opened to match manifolds, and the manifolds then match ported. Alan ran them on the flow bench too so I'll have figures when I see him.

Barrels and pistons have been in machineshop jail for months,  need them to proceed with build. Once they're back I need to mock up to measure piston crown heights and push rod length.
Then it comes apart for piston skimming and balancing and con rod balancing then it's ready to build.

Tight schedule but doable..... I think  :D

Nowhere near finished still,  but jobs getting ticked off one by one.

Chassis in bare metal from a while back

(http://i.imgur.com/kqfsJLb.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/ZQrNUlk.jpg)

Tried my hand at panel beating and managed alright, not perfect but hopefully a skim of fillers will finish it nicely

(http://i.imgur.com/671gdFi.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/AcPpTKP.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/JCCugFy.jpg)


Engine has migrated to my bedroom for the winter, much nicer working indoors. I have had lots of work done on engine parts, I'll post details and pics as I build it up over the next few weeks.

(http://i.imgur.com/9PkXn3G.jpg)

3 years later and I've not finished this yet. Lots of ball ache and lots of money down the drain due to others ineptitude.

Back on it in a big way now and it's ready at last to bolt together

Sounds brilliant. Get some pictures up then.

How bout these  ;)

(http://i.imgur.com/I4bYRNb.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/9vGx3Zs.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/UXIRzSJ.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/UW7z7Hc.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/3YFgup8.jpg)

Hard to capture the warpage on camera but there's plenty of it too. I should never have sold you the java unless you agreed to do the welding for me  :D

3 years in the making, it better last longer than a dyno session this time  :D

(http://i.imgur.com/DkunGLO.jpg)

Well I was majorly pissed off with the welding on the 69 and I wasn't prepared to spend more money on a paint job while the metal work wasn't up to standard. I had a rough past year too which meant I'd no time to do ay work fixing the body.

So I started looking for a donor body I could put all the parts I had collected to good use, late last year I spotted this on craigslist, it looked perfect and the price was a steal so I went ahead and bought it.

(https://i.imgur.com/rvkKmgD.jpg)

Turned out better than I expected, never welded or crashed and 100% original paint and panels. Original 1600 sp motor runs like a champ too.

(https://i.imgur.com/RoRCWUm.jpg)

Got the burners fitted and adjustable front beam and drove it like this for a few months.

(https://i.imgur.com/sy0FtbC.jpg)

Pulled the body off last month to get stuff ready for the engine transplant. All wiring and plumbing now done and engine is sitting on the stand ready to be fitted.

(https://i.imgur.com/a8GihlB.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/nRIIl9D.jpg)

Waiting on some paint to dry on the front suspension then I can roll the restored pan under the body and fit it back together. Hopefully be attempting to fire it up sometime this week.

Only noticed the odometer reading the other day, hopefully a good omen  :D

(http://i.imgur.com/uBwUoNz.jpg)

The 69 body is still here, I'm gonna fix it up as time allows.

The 69 body didn’t need much though?!

It didn't until the fuckwit I paid to fix it made it worse. I wasn't parting 5 grand + for a paint job until the issues are fixed. I've got most of the drivers side straight again now, still plenty of work needed to get it right.

The green car = amazing  ;D

Its like a new car underneath

(http://i.imgur.com/hCSdXtL.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/6YN6cLI.jpg)

It's like you had a time machine

Getting close  ;D

(http://i.imgur.com/7E2D7Ak.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/qbzYZOO.jpg)

Stainless Steel for return line, aluminium for flexi to filter

(http://i.imgur.com/5984fXq.jpg)

Redone the stainless lines inside the tunnel as they were a mess.

(http://i.imgur.com/hGXz3yS.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/y3z1ITx.jpg)

Gonna test the fuel system today, praying there's no leaks

Did you repaint the chassis? What product did you use?

Yeah it's jotun 87, same stuff as epoxy 121 I think

looking good! i love green cars  ;D
dont forget the nut on your gearbox mounts  :o

Thanks Steve, gearbox now secured!

Hopefully tomorrow will be the day it finally makes some noise

(http://i.imgur.com/SxpBVc2.jpg)

what are those injectors from? (i have the same manifolds.... )

I don't know tbh I got the full kit from speedshop.

So I got the engine in and all hooked up, had to get a hydraulic hose company to make a fuel line as the stainless steel I bought still hasn't arrived.

Spent the day yesterday trying to get it running, managed to run for 5 seconds, suffering from slow cranking so I swapped starters and problem persists so I'm suspecting a worn bushing.

(http://i.imgur.com/k06t2NU.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/LxJ5o9L.jpg)

The gearbox earth wasn't earthing on the rubber on the mount, put a washer behind the strap to fill the void and voilà
https://youtu.be/4waSY4QoAEI

Top job, can't believe you let that car get wet though ;)

That is a really clean shell - is it original paint?

Fucking Irish summers eh  :D I wasn't gonna sit indoors all day when I was this close, I got wet too if it makes it better.

All good so far no leaks or worrying noises, the ecu is back to square one though as far as mapping goes, dunno where the map from the dyno session went? I'm at the end of my capabilities with it now and I need to get help to tune it. Couple of little things to finish and I'm on the road at last.

Yeah all og paint unbelievably clean, been in a garage since 1994 spent its life near San Francisco.

Might be worth offering to build engines for the previous builder :)

No chance, we'll have switched to electric by the time I've another one built  :D

Anyways still need to see how this one survives before I can call it a success.

Well it still hasn't blown up which is good  8) Got a base map sorted thanks to Dave at bugbitz, gotta love dave his work is top notch and he teaches you what he's doing as he's doing it, he fixed all the machining errors on my case and cylinders too before I built the motor. I'm gonna dump the oil and check valve lash in the morning and hopefully take it for a drive

(http://i.imgur.com/kAWrP1r.jpg)

Hi Baz,
Any updates?
Also what size tyres are you running on the burners? Make?
Lee

I haven't had a chance to work on it lately, provisionally booked in for a rr session but I haven't been given a date yet.

Tires are toyo proxes 165/65 and 205/70. May try a 185 on the front sometime there's plenty of room for them.

Finally collecting the car from the guy I left it with a month ago to sort the mapping. Spoke to him today and he's told me he can't get any power out of it, made 80 fwhp. It's running well, no noises, doesn't overheat, has fuel pressure, injectors were tested, valve lash is right, it's got new spark plugs, brakes aren't binding, so I'm a bit stumped. Max timing is 28 degrees he says it pinks if he gives it any more.

The guy that has been tuning it is a good guy, exactly the sort you want working on your stuff. He knows dta inside out and tunes race cars and rally cars all day every day. His only experience of aircooled vws is tuning formula vee racers so it was his first time trying to tune a hot fuel injected aircooled engine.. He has it running sweet and it sounds great just no power.

Any suggestions please?

I'll post up the maps tomorrow once I get the car home.

If it runs well and sounds great, take it to another rolling road for a power run? That rules out any dyno issue
Lee

Doubtful it's a dyno issue, this guy is a legit operator and his workshop and machinery are immaculate and in constant use, if there was an issue there he'd know right away.
Same combo apart from 5.5 rods made double that hp last time it ran years ago.  ???

Compression test? Check the valves are lifting fully?
What are your afr’s like?

28 deg of timing sounds too low to me. It should be able to handle 32 comfortably. It's not something daft like a sensor giving a false reading so the ECU is doing something it shouldn't?

.

.

Could be a few teeth out though maybe? Or did you deffo line up the dots?
And the slot for the oil pump lines up with the dot on the cam gear too....

Can going flat? Can rough check it with a ruler if you don’t have a dti handy

.

Are you getting full throttle on the linkage? I know it's an obvious one but worth a check

I’m not sure it sounds right. Might be just me but the exhaust note doesn’t sound as it should.

Yep double checked that today.

.

Sound reminds me when I got two plug leads round the wrong way.

.

I will stop suggesting, I forget you have all this fancy fuel injection stuff I know nothing about  ;D :o

Baz

does sound weird, almost a banging/knocking noise, and if cam is going flat it goes on nose not base so doesn't affect lash until its totally fucked and starts to destroy lifters   

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Glad you got to the bottom of the problem! Were you a tooth out on the cam gear? Looks great, and 155 at the wheels is still 185ish bhp at the flywheel, which I'd be happy with, especially with the driveability of the modern tech you've chucked at it!

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Well done Baz,
Was thinking about this a few days ago wondering if you had found out/sorted the issue.
As ever, car looks great.

Lee

Thanks Lee great to finally have it done just hoping for lots of dry weather over the winter so I can use it.

.

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Baz,
Are you running stock IRS or narrowed arms?
I've got a set of JGE burners with 205/70's on and wondered if they would fit a long axle 70 bug with stock fenders

Lee

Sorry for late reply Lee, I'm running standard arms. Caps won't fit without grinding axle ends, dunno if swing axle same but assume they are. I had threads extended on stub axle and grinded ends off so caps would fit.

Thanks for the info Baz,

Lee