The Cal-look Lounge

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/motormeister/image_zpshlus7bkn.jpeg) (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/motormeister/media/image_zpshlus7bkn.jpeg.html)
Reaming the bores straight, found a few tight, high spots in them

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/motormeister/image_zpsdzpkzzxw.jpeg) (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/motormeister/media/image_zpsdzpkzzxw.jpeg.html)
Then radiused the bore face

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/motormeister/image_zpsrfk3acgp.jpeg) (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/motormeister/media/image_zpsrfk3acgp.jpeg.html)
Final job was to give each bore a quick polish

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/motormeister/image_zpscpcokdrt.jpeg) (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/motormeister/media/image_zpscpcokdrt.jpeg.html)
These guys should appreciate their new home, next on to crank clearance and valve timing

looks nice! what lifters are they?

Schubecks

nice work. may i ask what machine you use to do this?

i used a very old at work to do this (horizontal mill, don't really know the name in english), most certainly 50 years old.

Just an adjustable hand reamer, a hand drill and a tool bought from Berg's 25 years ago to face the lifter bores.

Then finished off the bores with 120 grit loosely wrapped around a rod in a drill to hone the bores.

Nothing fancy, just lots of care taken not to remove too much material.

Heads done 😊


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

cool, but i assumed you fitted the bushes yourself as well. it looks really good.

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/motormeister/image_zpsc9dazfpj.jpeg) (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/motormeister/media/image_zpsc9dazfpj.jpeg.html)

Clearance checks all done, should be able to button up the bottom end tomorrow  ;D

Nice to see that you used the split bearing nr3

That doesn't look like the cam we were looking at over the weekend!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Case assembly looks good.....What kind of crank is that?

That one was too gay abou the same as a 125!! Going to save it for the SPG motor. I decided to use the 86c on 112LC and aiming for just under 10 to 1 CR. Need to keep up with you nitrous boys.

Thanks. That's an 84mm crank with a wedge mated flywheel from Bergs.

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/motormeister/image_zpskvnnrdu8.jpeg) (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/motormeister/media/image_zpskvnnrdu8.jpeg.html)

Oh no! Too much deck! Almost 100 thou without the copper head shim, need to get some thinner barrel spacers. Aiming for 10 to 20 thou plus a copper head gasket (0.040")

Aim for 40 th max. It will help reduce pre ignition.

Do you want my spare solenoids? 😉


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

is that 40thou in total? or 40 thou excluding the copper head shim?

i would run .020 deck and .040 head gasket

Cool, that's about what i was aiming for, possibly a little tighter to improve the squish.

My 2332 cc is similar: 0.020" DH + 0.040" copper head gaskets.

If you have piston notches, you could probably tighten up to 0.040" like my earlier combo, but would need high octane fuel.

I meant .040" total deck including copper gasket. If you need to lower compression dish the piston or do chamber work instead of adding deck. You want all the combustion to happen in the chamber and not in the outside edges where the pre ignition starts. My 1776 has 9.4:1 CR and doesn't ping on regular gas as a daily driver. The timing doesn't need to be advanced to make power either. Back the timing off and it still makes power  :)

Cool, that's the sort of deck I was aiming for, I've tried to keep as much of the squish area intact in the chamber and just unshrouded the valves as much as possible.

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/motormeister/DSCF0991.jpg) (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/motormeister/media/DSCF0991.jpg.html)

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/motormeister/DSCF0989.jpg) (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/motormeister/media/DSCF0989.jpg.html)

For comparison, here's a pic of how mine were ported. Yours have even more of a squish area intact.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v415/mschilling/IMG_8233.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mschilling/media/IMG_8233.jpg.html)

Can I please ask what heads they are?

they're CB comp eliminators

What cc are the chambers?

55cc's

So I get 10.4:1 CR, kinda high for pump gas but it might work. I think that's why my chambers are larger - he was trying to get the CR down for turbo. He also got 7cc's more out of dishing the pistons. The nice thing about the tight deck is that you don't have to run advanced timing to make power. Simply back off the timing until it doesn't ping and you're done.
https://www.cbperformance.com/v/enginecalc.html

I've always wanted to try to copy the combustion chamber shape onto the piston and then machine the piston a little to gain cc's, thus also keeping the squish area intact. Or maybe just pocket the area in front of the inlet valve, I think that would give the best results without lowering the CR too much.

You mean like this? If you had more like 60cc instead of 55cc your CR would drop to just under 10:1

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v415/mschilling/IMG_7661.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mschilling/media/IMG_7661.jpg.html)

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/motormeister/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsw0mcwkhl.jpeg) (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/motormeister/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsw0mcwkhl.jpeg.html)

Getting there :)

Nice case.  8)

Thanks Jim, one of my better "finds"

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/motormeister/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsr4cextmz.jpeg) (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/motormeister/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsr4cextmz.jpeg.html)

Spring heights set

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/motormeister/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsj9qpdgb1.jpeg) (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/motormeister/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsj9qpdgb1.jpeg.html)

Ready to bolt on

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/motormeister/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsud2grac3.jpeg) (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/motormeister/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsud2grac3.jpeg.html)

All torqued up, just rocker arm geometry and pushrods lengths to do

That's a nice looking motor  ;D

We just to finish the car then now 😎


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi, can i ask what kind of paint you used on your heads? I have the same heads and have been thinking about painting them black also, but have been a little hesitant due to heat and not wanting to reduce the heat dissipation further...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just Matt black metal paint from rustoleum. Just a thin single coat of it, I wasn't too worried about getting it in to each nook and cranny, that would have resulted it going on too heavy.

Beautiful assembly job Max -- Just comparing piston dishes

(http://i586.photobucket.com/albums/ss306/Fiatdude/pistonsa.jpg) (http://s586.photobucket.com/user/Fiatdude/media/pistonsa.jpg.html)

Ideally you retain both squish bands. Each side of the valves should be flat rather than dished. Keep the dish in the middle if possible. ;)

Those are SBC blower pistons that I have for my 4" bore turbo engine

Thanks

So, I ended up ditching the unknown Chinese Nikasils in favor of a set of old stock Mahle 94's. The cam is a Web 86c topped off with a set of 1.35 rockers, valve lift ended up at .525". And, the CR was set to 10 to 1 with .054" deck, including the copper head shim.

Ok, back for Christmas and new year. Been busy again in the garage :)

Fitted some dual taper ally pushrods, thanks aircooled.net. And got busy with the fanshroud, after some work, cutting the inlet and spark plug openings with a Drexel all looked ok. Now the problem.

Can't seem to get a linkage to fit. There's not much room between the back of the shroud and the bell housing. It seems that my only option would be to modify the shroud to clear the linkage. Has anyone else come across this, or do you know of another linkage that may

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/motormeister/IMG_0342_zpssoynjkls.jpg) (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/motormeister/media/IMG_0342_zpssoynjkls.jpg.html)

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/motormeister/IMG_0343_zps2a3ty3ao.jpg) (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/motormeister/media/IMG_0343_zps2a3ty3ao.jpg.html)

There's no room for the linkage to swivel. The CSP linkage sits even further away from the bell housing, making it not an option

have you looked at the cable operated linkage from Logmech? it seems to work really good and if not mistaken Peter runs the same or similar on his 1776.

the engine really does look good.

What shroud is it? whats the OD of the fan ring?

i made a cable linkage for my 911 cooling. what are you running for intake?

Hi!

I bought the sync link cable linkage from pete, it works great very smooth operation.

Take a look at his thread on the samba you will not be disapointed.

Nice greetings

Marcel

Thanks, I'll have a look at the cable style linkages

The shroud was from Competition Engineering in Arizona, the fan is a stock unmachined one from a 993. And the intakes will be twin throttle bodies with An IDF stud pattern.

Maybe CE might have advice on which readily available linkage will fit that shroud?

See what CE say but i think cable may be your best bet.... depending on which TB's you use will determine a bit more

I had Steve Hollinsworth here in Phoenix do the same on the lifter bore with the bushing insert great work.

Frenchy

(https://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/motormeister/D175F313-58DD-4AE0-86C3-4432138F7075_zpswchuw37e.jpeg) (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/motormeister/media/D175F313-58DD-4AE0-86C3-4432138F7075_zpswchuw37e.jpeg.html)t

Slight change of plan, decided to go a more traditional route, back to the IDA’s and conventional cooling, but this time with a type 4 oil cooler