The Cal-look Lounge

Been reading the weight saving thread, there is a light weight Skoda starter motor that fits apparently, can anyone co firm if this is it?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/S938-Skoda-Favorit-Felicia-1-3-1-6-94-Starter-Motor/371741134344?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D39839%26meid%3D32f1ecbef4ac48ab844f0626f3a3e287%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D9%26sd%3D371626529199

Cheers joel

interesting! is it self supported?

Diederick from my club has one. I believe it is indeed self supporting and also has more punch than a normal starter. I'm sure he will be able to tell if it is the correct one.

Yes, I use these were neccasary, I run a raised trans/motor and selected the Skoda unit because the solonoid is anti clocked slightly from stock to around the 10 o/c position giving me more clearance over it as its right were my ARB sits. I had to machine around 5mm off the snout to get proper engagement on the ring gear, the one shown seems cheap, be wary. This pic link may or may not work https://www.flickr.com/gp/40412896@N00/rqY5sq

Yes, that one will work, but some machining is needed. Few pictures and tips in Finnish http://www.volkkaripalsta.com/keskustelu/topic/18070-skoda-felician-startti/?hl=skoda

hello,

i used one, works perfect.

kind regards,

Davy

can anyone convert a rough guide into english? one picture looks like they are cutting down the mounting flange?

and guessing BBB is relating to trimming the snout so it bolts fully down?

i'm wondering if it could be a good source of starters? the remade ones i've found to be a little hit and miss? even though they are bosch units originally i don't know if they are referred by them?

I machined 5 mm of the flange (2,5 mm per side) and also 2,5 mm from behind the support bearing. After the modification starter and flywheel gear connection is quite ok, but to equal to the original starter about 3 mm more material should be machined from the flange.

In the same Volkkaripalsta topic other solution is to machine all material of from the flange's face side and support the remaining flange with a steel reinforcement. 

I found you could extend the tip of the shaft by 2mm by welding and then bench grinding.  You need to ensure the original retaining ring groove stays intact though.

So i have my skoda starter to use, Can anyone help with what to machine off, Google translate has not been much help
Cheers

What my brother did for me was he ground down the teeth out of original Skoda sprocket, then turned what was left down on a lathe and then he inserted and welded a sprocket from a Beetle onto it in such a way that it reaches further. No machining of the flange was necessary that way.

Thanks, I do not have a standard starter motor to compare it to, is it just a case of lining up the teeth with the flywheel as in pre-engaged or does the starter teeth move out to engage on the flywheel when powered up?

I'm not sure if I understand you correctly but the problem with a Skoda starter is that it does not reach far enough and the sprocket only partially engages the flywheel. The sprocket shape is the same. It will work if installed 'as is' but will wear out the teeth on the flywheel.

I understand this method now that I have split the starter motor, Can you tell me how much the shaft was extended by?

Many thanks

Hi
Does anyone have the Skoda part number for this starter?
Cheers

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Hi!

I'm using this one:  http://www.typ1motor.de/product_info.php?info=p43_hochleistungsanlasser-mit-1-kw---1-4-ps.html
So far so good:I guess it's a Chinese copy-it doesn't say Magnetron anywhere and the casting looks genuine Chinesium.
I chose it because it clears the Käfercup triangle and the old starter was getting tired.

Cheers.

Been running a skoda starter for last few months, unmodified.

Funny noise lately and knew something was wrong, yesterday it gave up completely. Next one gets modified  :D

(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2014298.jpg)

Wondering if it's possible to mod these without a lathe, adding a washer and bending the lever slightly will push the shaft out further and give you full engagement with ring gear.
New motor coming tomorrow don't see why this won't work?

(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2014377.jpg)

I'm copying your approach this time, have it all ready to weld up. Just wondering how is yours holding up? Did you do anything to harden the shaft after the welding?

(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2039026.jpg)