The Cal-look Lounge

Could anyone tell me where to find stock Type1 length Titanium valves?

I know CB sell the Type4 length Ti valves, I have a set of these in another motor, but for the liife of me can't find them for a normal Type1.

All the other aftermarket ones I have searched for appear to have non compatible lengths and the stem sizes are smaller to totally tiny!

If anyone can point me in the right direction I'd really appreciate it.

Thanks,

Greg

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/SearchResults.asp?Search=titanium

Bergs may still have old stock as well, in three groove.
You can custom order any Manley valve you need through Fabre Australia also.
Manley no longer do the three groove collets, but single 'bead lock' is nicer anyhow.
Looks like Aircooled ones do too, since they come with collets.

PS Johannes' heads use type 4 length.  ;)

Thanks for the replies,

The ones at Aircooled.Net kick off at 37.5mm,  I suppose I could change the seats in the heads, but I'd prefer not to if I can find what I need.

I'll check out Manley and see what they have available.

Cheers,

Greg

Just curious, why do you want such small valves in your heads?  ???

Hi Martin,

Fair question!

I could stuff 40x35.5mm seats and valves in it, but they are stock valved heads for a specific CC racing class that I've already spent weeks porting, I'm not allowed to make the bore size any bigger or of course I'd run something larger and more conventional.

To make the power required with the small CC's allowed it will have a large cam, high CR, plenty of lift and lots of rpm.

I see, so no bigger valves allowed either. 32x35 are small even for a stock 1600. I've always like 35x40 as what people did with the 041 heads.

Yeah, like I said I could redo the seats and put 40x35.5 valves in these heads but I already have them and spent the time making them flow as much as they can through the stock valves.
I did another stock set for a friend that were nowhere near as wild as these, and on the 1600 engine I built for him running some 44IDF's it ran a 9.3@73MPH in the 1/8 with stock gears in his Beetle.

I'll see what it can do with the setup the way it is, and if it doesn't do as well as it should then bang for buck has to be CB's Panchito 044's, they can come in 85.5 bore and should be killer just off the shelf.

That sounds fun, not sure you need fancy titanium valves though, what camshaft are you planning on running?

I've got some SI valves in the shed Greg in both stock and 041 sizes, they seem to flow as well as the Manley SDs, but they're SS not Ti.
I rang it thru, they emailed me an invoice and I Payp@l'd them.......a week later they got here (country WA).

Have fun man, spin it up.  8)

I assisted with a street engine build 20 years ago:

88 x 69
256' @ 0.050/284' @ 0.020/0.507" @ valve (with 1.25)
stock valve sixes in ported 040 castings
8.8:1
40IDF x 2 with 32mm chokes on tall manifolds
1-1/2" header

14.71 @ 91mph  in street trim, full stock weight with 195/65 Dunlop radials, stock 4.37:1 transaxle.

I think you should stay with the smaller valves
and just turn down some 37.5s if you want to use the titanium.

Frosty's 1775cc made 128hp at the wheels with stock VW valves,
and a good enough spread in power to run in the 12's (guessing at 1600lbs, but can't remember)
so based on that, a 35.5 valve should be heaps.

You can always sneak up the throat sizes a little to make the engine 'think' it has a bigger valve.

Yes! grinding down those $140 USD valves would be fun hehe.  :'(

Pull the 35mm seat out and bump it too a 37.5 seat.  Then use the 37mm titanium valve as is. 

I have had really good luck with well ported 37X32 heads.  I am just finishing up a set with a smallish 60cc port volume and 151cfm.  I still need to do a good valve job, but I am guessing they will be right close to 155cfm when I am done. 

With the light valve, and aluminum push rods, you could probably get away with a good single spring. 

Brian

Is getting away with a good single spring an advantage?

Have you ever turned an engine with single springs over by hand, and then a similar engine with dual springs?  Big difference..  Less spring pressure means less HP wasted, less guide wear, less heat, stock size guide bosses, etc..

Brian

and less heat.

Edit, sorry you had mentioned that.  ;D

I suspect Greg is planning on RPMs that are well beyond what any single spring can manage.

Stiffer spring do not cause an engine to loose power.  Weak springs and valve float do.

Notice when you turn over an engine with a wrench,  with big springs once you get past peak lift on a lobe the engine wants to rotate the wrench out of your hand as it turns by itself.  ( The spring gives back what was put into it)

 ;)

Yes but that's expected. Big engine is harder to turn over than a 36 hp but so what?
My engine doesn't have any of those problems and it has dual springs.  ???

That's exactly the number we came up with as a target for peak HP when we were writing out the 88 x 69 I mentioned above, 127.6hp. I think if the taper in manifold is ported correctly (and correct manifolds to begin with) and the throat area is attended to, this size valve will make good broad power in 1776 or smaller, 2800-6500 with a cam that works in that range (for 1776).

Thanks for all the replies.

Deciding on this after all the research, I've bought a set of Manley SS valves in the stock sizes. I could have had them made in TI as Dave suggested, but the $3K+ price is better spent on other items.

Engine will be stock 1584cc.
Cam is a split lobe design and will have a limit of 9000rpm and will use some strong AL pushrods and Dual springs/w TI retainers.

I have to weigh the pistons when they get here, but I'm looking at 100g ea lighter than stock at least.

Sounds awesome Greg!
Keep us posted!
Would love to see some head pictures!

Here's some head pictures.

By no means do I claim to be any expert on porting heads, but these were going to be thrown away, so I repurposed them.

This design whilst not so radical as some, seems to work for me for the 8 sets I've done so far.

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I have to install Exhaust valve guides, cut them for dual springs and do a proper valve job, as you can see none of this has been done as yet.

I'll also flap wheel the intake and exhaust ports to clean/pretty them up, they are simply off the porting tool at the moment.


Cheers,

Greg

Looks like they will have great air speed for the small CC engine and still be able to turn RPM

Looks good man.
Do some reading about inlet port finish.
Latest thinking, is to leave the burr finish on the inlet.
Have not tried it on my own stuff yet, but makes sense.

Every time I try that Greg I end up with Devcon everywhere!
(Bench, toolbox, fingers, the dog, etc).
 ;D

I like the port bias.

Thanks Jim, that was the intention, all indications on small engines I've done are that this porting
setup works so far... engines have only turned up to 7500- 8000RPM not 9000 like this one, but I changed the ports on this so that it's at the limit for a stock head in the inlet,( without welding) and I'm at 1" 4/8ths exhaust port, plan to use an 1" 5/8ths merged headers on this engine with a 2.25" muffler.

It's easy to make lots of chips far too quickly ! (LOL modnrod then have to fill in the mistakes). Been there done that.

Dave, all the ones I've done so far I haven't done a "polish" on the inlet OR exhaust ....I've left it how it is, but on these ones I just mean cleaning it up so it all looks more Symmetrical/Cleaner.... I'm probably way too pedantic here, but I like that it looks even.
At the moment it all looks hand done, and of course it is, so it isn't perfect, but then again hand done it is and I'm not a CNC machine... Thanks for letting me know about Fabre, they have already and will be very helpful in the future.

Cheers,

Greg

By the way,

No-one commented on what heads they are?

Apart from my porting efforts they came like that from the factory and were on a standard VW engine.

They were going in the trash.

Maybe only Bruce Tweddle has seen this type of head? ;)

That's the Auto Linea casting. My old job, we brought those in from a vendor out of Brazil. What I found to be an issue with the versions we were sent (maybe yours are different- I hope) was very little material behind exhaust seat. We were under the gun to warranty a wall of these heads, for various "failures" which ultimately, I felt, could be traced back to the lack of casting behind the exhaust seat. I had long-time customers that had been building and servicing VW's for decades complain exhaust valves were tightening up @ an alarming rate, very quickly. These were stock 85.5 x 69 low CR motors in "drivers" with stock cam/springs/ign advance etc. Had a few have seats rip clean out of head.
The heads I saw on shelf, if you removed exh valve and ran your finger tip into port, you could feel a lot of the inner surface of seat (where it should be flush up against alloy of head).

That's all true, but these are different, seem to have been made in 2001 by the casting marks and very thick castings, no dramas with behind the exhaust seat, but they had 9mm Exhaust valves (maybe to help what you'd described). So that's why I've got rid of them and waiting for some new 8mm guides.

Also notice how many cooling fins it has... I haven't milled any off (yet)   ;)

I think they are Brazilian Alcohol heads, they are already on 11.5CR, note how close the spark plug hole is to the barrel seating surface....they also have a full surface at that barrel end, not the 6 little pads like normal stock heads, more like an old 40hp head.

They are stamped 040 101 375.16 each and the Auto Linea G02 mark.

I've never seen anything like them before.

Hi Greg. Thought I!d ask if you could share what cam you end up with and how it goes when you're all done, while I'm still thinking about it .......... and before my ipad gets non-responsive, again!

I used an FK87 with stock rockers in a similar combo and size to yours once, but the carbs were a bit smaller and tbh it probably had more port volume and less airspeed (the "good old days"). Still, it pulled really hard if I kept it between 4 and 7, you'll probably go bigger on lift and duration.

Good fun this stuff!
 ;D

Exhaust guides are in, and short manifolds have arrived.

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Manley Valves have arrived, and today cut the tops of guides for more lift clearance and for dual springs.

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Match Ported Manifolds today.

As they came cast.

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After some hours of work, this is Top of Manifold looking down the ports to the head.

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And after another few hours, the blended manifolds attached to head in the middle shot, looking back up.

I  didn't want to go too far to have to start welding manifolds because of thin metal, but this looks far enough to me, when I ran water through it each time to clean out the debris from porting, the water actually spins in the chamber to the contour of the manifold.

Let's hope this happens with the Air/Fuel mixture as well and it works like I envisage it should!

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A little bit more work and the final blended porting down the chambers with manifold attached to the head.

I think this should work really well, it appears that it has a good shot straight down from the Carbs to the head, with a nice transition between the two.

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Nice work mate.
 8)

I should have sent you mine!

Thanks Guys,

Took about 8hrs to get those manifolds how you see in the pics, but I know it is well worth it.

Today CC'ed the heads,

Cut back the Exhaust guides on the valve side, to the casting surface, and cut back the Inlet guides 0.200".
I wasn't going to touch them, but then I thought all the porting work that looks good flow wise, wouldn't perform as well with a long length of guide in the way.

Then did a 3 angle valve job on all seats.

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Lastly chamfered all the valve and the retainer side of all guides ID and OD as they were sharp edged after cutting.

Then spent 2hrs getting some Valve spring shims to fit perfectly!  ::)

I understand the ID because I set my valve boss cutter to be almost interference fit with the inner springs so I could retain as much boss diameter as possible for strength, however the OD was nowhere near a slip in and was a lengthy exercise to get them to slip down but not take too much off.

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Time is relative........you start when the sun just pokes over the trees, and then it seems to take only an hour or two before it's lunchtime, you're dehydrated, and starving hungry from the midday heat!  :D

I've just finished off my superstocker heads too (for now at least, they will just be run as they are), my chamber shape is very similar to that in the clearancing around the valves, but they look to be very shallow chambers. I can see what you mean about the high compression ratios you can get from them.

I too had to double-check everything, only the Crow Cams springs/retainers and the SI Valves were good to go as they were, nothing else fit properly.

If I can work out how to get it off my phone, I'll show you the Crank...

It's a very high RPM special from Jose...

great work! Have you decided which camshaft you will run?

I'm not sure which cam yet, I have a choice between an FK48/45 or a JPM.

I'm leaning towards the JPM only because I have run it before albeit in a larger engine.

Found them on my phone after a search, here's a couple of crank pictures for this engine, it's had the works done to it, so it should be a good thing.

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Well I've finally finished these, I thought my usual 3 angle valve job would suffice, however it took 8 times of recutting these Exhaust valve seats to get these in the correct height.
It only confirms my thoughts that these are Brazilian Alcohol heads, as the exhaust valve seats are almost as hard as crankshaft material which I can only assume is to protect them from heat.
Took me 2hrs each seat of lapping and checking and recutting and relapping and recchecking and recutting to get the correct seating surface for these Manley exhaust valves.

The inlet seats which I cut at the same time before lapped in within 2 minutes each...

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I said in my last post that I've finished these, however, no heads are finished without the "accessories"... and those accessories are what brings the whole combination together.

So in that regard, I got my 48 IDA's for this engine, they aren't original, I simply couldn't afford another set like my other race engine with Italiian IDA's bored to 51.5mm.

These will have to do for this 1584cc Race engine.

The first thing I noticed was I liked an old set of Bugpack lash caps rather than the CB lash caps with a tiny hole in them.

In all the years I've used lash caps (since 1994) I've never had one with a hole drilled for extra oiling as it was and still is, unnecessary, just the same as lifters, in my opinion, this was a race engine revving to 8000rpm and driven to every event, some a round trip of 1800miles.
Set up the things correctly in the first place and these "gimmicks" aren't needed, I believe.

The holes provide a wonderful place for fatigue cracks to start, and I certainly don't want to start that with this serious engine.

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So, next steps were, install lash caps.

Install the CB Chromoly Rocker Studs.

Install the 1.4:1 Rocker assembly...

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Then install some new Velocity Stacks...

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And aircleaners are always a drama with IDA's, so since this is a full on race engine, I think these will do the job...

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Excuse me Greg, could I please ask what you thought of the fitment of the rocker assemblies?
Did they need much prepwork or finishing?
Thanks, Dave

Hi Dave,
I've used 6 sets of these rockers and all have been excellent.

They are silicon bronze bushed and are very well made, I've only got them from one supplier though.

There is a 1.25 set on another 1584cc engine that I built for a friend doing 9.3 @73MPH in the eighth mile, and that has been revved to 8200rpm ("accidentally").. so I know they are a strong item...

This one I need to move a few shims around as they are a bit stiffer than I would like, but out of the box, all of them seem to line up brilliantly with the valve stems.

Personally, I will never again use the stock style rockers that adjust at the valve, these are too easy to set and too good not to use, I have only had 2 Beetles with stock engines and if I had to choose, these would be on all of them even with the stock cam...

 

Thanks Greg, good to know.
Of course if I had 1/2 a brain I would have also asked exactly what brand they are and your local supplier ...........  ::)
LOL! Can I ask now please?  ;D

I use 1.4s on stock cams all the time, works really well.
I'm about to try stock late rockers fitted with 10mm Kombi adjusters, I'm hoping it will work but I won't know for a while I guess.

what is latest update on this project ?

Still working on the piston/barrel part of this engine, I have some pistons I want to use that need milling on the top and valve pockets cut in them.

The barrels need to be shortened as the pin height is a lot higher.

The case for all this, I'm unsure of, I have a brand new MAG mexican case that I got in a job lot, or I could purchase a new non-raised roof AL case, I'm undecided at this point.

Cheers,

Greg

Hi Greg
I would think you need to file them 2-2.5 "from the head
If you have the opportunity to test them in the flow bench I would think that the head flows more without a manifold
/// Micke

Hi Greg
If not, it may look like this
Head is the high numbers. Dom low is with intake

Thanks heaps, I get the idea, my "flow bench" is the water faucet when I run hot water through to get the swarf out of either head or manifold.

I've gone up the manifold as far as I believe it is valid, I'm not into hogging things out for more flow, this has worked really well for me before, so I'll run with what I've done so far.
Smaller porting and faster airspeed, remember this set of heads are stock, they only have 35.5mm inlet and 32mm exhaust valves.

I need to get the pistons and barrels sorted, then I can put the rest of it together.

Cheers,

Greg

Hi Greg, just wondered what the latest update was on this engine project. Very interested in how this is going,   thank you,

Jim R.

G'Day Jim,
Ah, I've had that thing happen which stops a lot of projects moving forward, for many of us for different reasons, my mother fell headwards into serious dementia some time ago, it got so bad recently, that I am now a full time carer for her.
She was 90yrs old this May gone, so I have been still on this project, but to make ends meet as well, I've been trying to work on some refurbished cylinder heads (that's the program) to still keep me sane working in the home garage.

I'm getting a weeks break very shortly, so I'll take some pics of a bunch of related items for this engine build, especially pistons and barrels, the pistons are from a very high revving commercial car, (talking $150 a set with ring set , instead of $700 for some Wisecos) ;-)

Magnesium case, it is brand new, but Hecho in Mexico, so I've ruined a new one of them many years ago before, but that was 94mm bore not 85.5mm, so I don't know but I'll try it.

BUT, I want this engine to be a 9000rpm engine, decided to use my 9500rpm JPM cam with this from my current race engine, but limited to 9, I do think these tiny stock valves with serious cam and springs will rev it's brain off, the same cam was on 48 x 40mm valves albeit Titanium ones....

So, I'll give you a bunch more info soon Jim, but I need to sort it out in the next couple of weeks, hopefully I can show you some dished pistons becoming flat tops and then valve pocketed as well...

Thanks for taking a serious interest mate.

Greg

I am also very interested to see this coming together.

Can't wait to see what your pistons are from.  I really appreciate out of the box true "hot-rodding", and finding alternate sources for parts rather then just ordering $$ stuff off the shelf. 

Brian

85.5mm, hi rev, light, thin rings, excellent quality ......... Evo?

 ;)

Here are a few pics of the pistons I want to use from a couple of different angles.

These are just as they are out of the box with nothing done to them as yet.

As I'm sure you can see there are a few procedures that need to be done to these before I can actually use them  ;)

These weigh in with gudgeon/piston pin at 475g at the moment, as opposed to a Cofap/Mahle with pin at 530g.

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Looks good! Slipper skirt with 85.5. I guess the shorter pin would help make them lighter.

Yep 60g or so as is, but the whole top of the piston down to 0.030" or more needs to be milled off, I haven't got 4 valves per cylinder as per stock usage  ;D

Plus these are for an engine that doesn't need circlips holding the piston pin, they are press fit or some shit I don't get, so I will have circlip grooves machined in to take some spirolox pin clips.

After that, they get mocked up in the engine, and then the math occurs for the valve lift with rocker ratio and compression needs and I can work out how deep the valve pockets in the pistons need to be.

The cam with the 1.54 ratio rockers will lift to 0.59290"

Cheers,

Greg

I've done up a set of 20yr old Cofap barrels for this engine, I think they came up not too bad from throwaway to almost new again!

Cheers,

Greg


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Looking good Greg, can't wait to see the final build.

I can't wait to hear it ......  8)

Hi Dave,

You will hear it next year, I've been talking with Nathan Abbott who wants to run it in his Beetle in next years Australian Hillclimb Championship at Mt Panorama.

I was wondering if there was any interest in either some documentation or a Video of building this little engine once I have all the parts ready to go?

Cheers,

Greg

I'd love to see your documented progress.

Jim

I'd love to see it, for sure!
I kinda miss the detailed step-by-step stuff, I really like the picture trail of a rebuild with a few notes, my favourite.
 8)
Hearing that thing howl down the mountain would be very, very cool.

Good stuff Greg.

I think we would all love to see your work even in more detail!

I know this is not this engine,not the 1584cc yet

but because Ive been preoccupied,

Here is my 1916cc one "running in",  

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eEupjoluhlY


I got 2 weeks away from looking after my mother....

Happy New Year,

Greg

Here's a couple of pics of the engine above..

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Cheers,

Greg

Hey Greg,
Cant wait to see the step by step!  ;D

Loving the Yoshi can BTW. Guessing an MC end can is cheaper and lighter than some car units?

marc

 ;D
My shortened Yoshi weighs 900g.
 ;)
Remarkably loud though! LOL! Go figure.

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PS: oh, and ....... the OEM GSXR ones are much quieter, and even the heaviest ones weigh less than 3kg (Ti about 1kg).
They're the ones to get I think for smaller 50-54mm pipes. Cheap on eb@y.

No oil filter?

Nope, no oil filter, no extra coolers, just an anti-surge sump that still retains the stock screen.

Nothing extra that can blow up or come off.

Hi marc, yes it is lighter, but since a friend gave it to me to see if I could make it work.

I thought it was a good thing because being a bike muffler, it's repackable, instead of the usual rivets at the end I drilled and tapped for bolts, so you can just take it apart and repack it if necessary.

In my class of racing in Hillclimb the organisers are pretty strict on noise limits, so having the ability to redo it with new material is a bonus.

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We really need a "like" button here ........

would also like to see step by step, that 1916 sounds mad

Interesting that point Greg.
Read a thread from the team that run a Bug in the US 24hrsLemons series and they choose to run points instead of an ignitor as they feel that points will just wear gradually over the race rather than fail completely. Not sure I agree with that POV tbh considering their last race the nub on the points that is opened by the cam wore away and stopped them..

I can't quite claim that infalability, I ran points ignitions for the first 15yrs I ever raced a car, never had any spares, just drove it the 1500miles to the racetrack, ran it to 8000rpm at the time and drove home again, I never considered a backup, but since it became twin plug electronic in 2005, I haven't ever had a drama.

My point of view is only ever on what I have personally done myself, I'll never give a point of view on a "what if I did this" situation, because how can I? I have no idea, that is why I have been around for many many years, but still retain a "newbie status"....

What I can tell you, is , I've raced VW's now, officially we clicked over to 30yrs this year, I've driven my racecar to the tracks for 20yrs of that time, sometimes putting on 15,000miles in whatever year I was racing, but then I wanted a higher HP/Higher spec engine that I should keep pristine, so it was trailered since 2010...

The one thing I learned in all this time, was a horrible lesson about Chromeoly pushrods which I refuse to ever use in my life again, and the others have been about keeping things simple.

I have never had a need for an external cooler and have driven over 1500miles to the track on freeways with even a 4.375R/P and a 1.23 fourth gear. I don't believe in them.

I have never needed to worry about an oil filter, because I change the oil often enough to take care of any contamination, and I don't believe in them.

The only sump I will ever use, is one that let's me slide the car around corners at 9000rpm, so I don't use normal "drag race" sumps....

I'm afraid all that sounds a bit arrogant, but since my last engine that was JPM based heads and cam was revved to 9000rpm every gearchange for 5yrs, bearings came out looking amazing, case never needed a linebore, and the crank was never even thought about a grind on anything, I'll simply say that I'll keep doing things the way we have been, cause for me it is working a treat.

Cheers,

Greg

Applause

Ok, so after a lot of fiddling around, I'm back at this thing again.

The pistons are done, they ended up a little shorter and had to have the circlip grooves machined too, as they are normally a press fit into the rod in their intended application, but I think they came out pretty good...

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The rods I will be using are from a China supplier, I was sceptical to begin with, but they sent me a To#¤ta 2JZ rod for me to inspect, and on looking at that I bought a VW set, they rate them all for 600+HP so I figured they'd be no drama for this build.

I was pleasantly surprised to find that each one was exactly the same weight end for end, and they had been finished honed while torqued to spec, which was to me an amazing 55ft/lbs, on undoing one they had also been coated with moly on the threads before being torqued.

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They are also lighter than stock rods.


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Cam checks out ok in the case.

Case is a barely used AS21 Industrial engine case.

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Barrels done up and checked for deck height.



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Barrels need to be shortened a little bit  :D


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Rotating assembly is at the balancers and barrels are being shortened....

Hopefully back onto building this next week..

All back from the balancers and my new machinists..

From CB (thanks Marieanne)..

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Looking at Cam with gear attached.

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Looking ok..

Crank on this "Proof of concept Engine" is a genuine German, welded counterweights, but this time knife edged to relieve almost 0.8kg from rotating mass...not using the special DPR one till next incarnation of this engine...


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Base of cylinders clear beautifully in the case, and I have to give props to the guys that machined the bases of the cylinders, each one 0.350" less than what they were...

One was 0.009" shorter regardless, that would have made for a mismatched engine, I will check every cylinder from now on, each and every way!!

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Shout out to Roy from Mofoco for the flywheel...
apart from the fact that it should have been deburred in all the holes, this genuine German again part is the bomb...

Looks Chrome in this pic....

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Onto assembly next, need to do a lot more math on this engine, there will need to be cutouts for the valves in the pistons, I'll mark them at the correct positions and then machine accordingly, heading for 0.060" clearance for inlet and 0.080" clearance for exhaust....

Onto assembly next, need to do a lot more math on this engine, there will need to be cutouts for the valves in the pistons, I'll mark them at the correct positions and then machine accordingly, heading for 0.060" clearance for inlet and 0.080" clearance for exhaust....

What deck height are you expecting after the valve notching?

Hi Martin,

Deck height already set at 0.050", notches will just add 3-4cc so heads when finished will be around 24cc in the chamber..

Shooting for approx 12.5:1 CR....

This is going to be a stout little engine! Are you running the JPM camshaft in the end?

I love the attention to detail.

Keep the photos coming!

Okay,
I've been pretty busy since I last updated, you wanted plenty of pics with an explanation of what I was doing, so here we go!

For Alex, I decided to use the JPM cam in the next version of this engine, so for this one I'm using:

[attachment=1]


Since this engine is a proof of concept, I decided to change up some of the reasonably expensive parts for pieces I'm less concerned about...

For Martin, deck height is as measured and the machine shop that shortened the barrels for me was absolutely spot on accurate.

[attachment=2]

[attachment=3]

Seeing if I can get a basic check on the flywheel endplay before actually assembling the engine, as I like to put the rear main seal in as I put the case halves together.

[attachment=1]

[attachment=2]

Assembling the crank.

I'll mention here that I was extremely surprised that the brand new rod bearings (Silverline bought about 4yrs ago) didn't fit.

#1 Rod bearings which I was testing the deck height with was perfect, had 0.002" clearance, spun on the crank no problems, #2, 3 and 4 all hung on the crank.

Moving them from rod to rod and rod to different journal made no difference, so I measured these 6 halves and found all of them were about 0.010" thicker than the 2 halves that worked on the number one rod initially. So I ordered a new full set, this set worked straight away as you'd expect, and looking at the underside of all these bearings the steel was brown, funnily enough looking at the 2 halves that fit from the other set the steel back was brown too, the 6 halves that didn't fit the steel back was blue.

The packs were both marked 0.010" or 0.25mm and so were the backs of the bearings...

[attachment=1]

[attachment=2]

[attachment=3]

[attachment=4]

Before dialling in the cam, time to check that the Top dead center mark on this crank pulley actually is TDC.

Using the little screw on the deck height plate and screwing it down so the piston will hit it before its full travel, and I get 8deg BTDC, go backwards all the way around till it stops again and I get 8deg ATDC, so pulley TDC is correct.

[attachment=1]

Made up a small alloy marker so pulley can be read a little more accurately.

[attachment=2]

Dialling in the cam.

Getting it in the case with the crank and lining up the dots, a white marker on the dots helps me see it a little easier  :D

[attachment=1]

[attachment=2]

Figuring out the best way to make this as accurate as possible, leaving the deck height plate attached to hold the barrel down securely, I've got a surplus flat steel oil pump cover that I can then bolt to the deck height plate.

[attachment=3]

The standard holes in it happen to be able to align perfectly with the lifter hole, and I can slip an 8mm stud nicely through it so the dial indicator can read the lift accurately.

[attachment=4]

After checking the intake centerline as per the cam card and picking the correct washers, I just loctite the cam bolts and torque to 18ft/lbs.

Now can start assembling the engine and button it up for good. Installing an old distributor at this stage makes sure that the distributor drive is in the correct orientation and eliminates the possibility of dropping the two shims into an already assembled case.

Windage tray took hours of fiddling (back in the checking stage) to actually make it fit, but I believe in them, works in my other engine to past 9000rpm so I think it is a good addition to this one and keep me from not frothing up the oil too much when spinning this thing right up.

[attachment=1]

Line up the dots again.

[attachment=2]

[attachment=3]

[attachment=4]

Always satisfying to get to this point and even better when you can spin the engine with your fingertips without even a crank pulley on...

Adding the oil cooler.

[attachment=1]

[attachment=2]

Loosen off 3 small case nuts and install the oil pump, filled with a dollop of moly in it to help it prime before starting.

[attachment=3]

Oil pump cover on and stock strainer and sump plate goes on.

[attachment=4]

These new oil coolers come with quite a rubbish seal to the fanshroud, so I add two rows of a nice self sticking door sealer cut to size.

[attachment=1]

I've replaced the build up distributor with my old barely used Mallory, I bought this back in 2000, it has a curve that comes in quite early, so may help this small engine in the lower rev range.

[attachment=2]

[attachment=3]


And the shortblock is pretty much finished!

[attachment=4]

I just wanted to roughly check what the advertised lift with 1.4 rockers looks like with this cam.

These checking springs make it easy to do by hand.

[attachment=1]

[attachment=2]


What the lift is supposedly according to the cam card.

[attachment=3]

So on to what rockers to choose to run in this engine before I can work out what length the pushrods should end up at.

I have a selection between either the Chinese made 1.4 set that are bronze bushed and appear to be made well, (I've used these before and they've worked well in the 1.25 version up to 7500rpm) or the CB Performance made 1.4 set...

Chinese made 1.4's

[attachment=1]

CB Performance made 1.4's

[attachment=2]

You can probably already see why I chose to use the CB product.

On taking the adjusting nuts off I really didn't like how close the Chinese set were drilled to the edge of the side of the rocker arm.

Also if you look closely at the Chinese picture you can see the marks I could make with a file, I know it's not the tip and that was better, but doing the same thing to the CB's I couldn't make any marks.
Lastly trying the Chinese ones on the actual cylinder head, it wouldn't fit down onto the rocker pads with either the supplied studs or even the CB studs.

So CB's it is.

[attachment=3]

So with the rockers chosen, on to find out the correct pushrod length.

I've set this up with the lash caps installed and the lash set to 0.010" where it will probably end up running hot, they will be set to 0.006" when cold as per the cam card.

Checked all through the range, and I should have got a picture from the side to show it at half lift, but it is exactly  straight through the pushrod adjusting cup at half lift.


[attachment=1]

[attachment=2]

[attachment=3]

[attachment=4]

In the above picture the top pushrod is stock length.

The middle pushrod is the adjustable one set for the correct length for this engine (the engine is that short that I had to remake my adjustable rod shorter).

The bottom pushrod is the test one for my other engine I showed you last year.

So the next step was to check the valve to piston clearance.

This was going to end up even more critical and a little bit worrying (in my mind at first) because when checking everything after the final pushrod length was determined, the actual total lift of the valve ended up being 0.610" !!

Whoops, it wasn't meant to be that high, but it works out that the CB rockers actually spec out in my application at a 1.51 ratio.

[attachment=1]

I thought I'd throw some modelling clay on top of the piston to see exactly where the valves would hit.

[attachment=2]

I was sure that the engine would just lock solid as soon as the valves hit the piston, however the valves are nowhere near the piston!!

The piston definitely chases the valve as the valve closes, but at TDC I actually have 0.320" valve to piston clearance, so I guess the best part of this is I now have no need to notch the pistons, and consequently I won't lose compression because there are no notches.

[attachment=3]

[attachment=4]

 

So I said before that there were certain parts in this proof of concept engine that I didn't want to use until the next version of it.

And with that I decided to do another set of heads.

2 reasons for this, I actually couldn't quite get the compression I wanted with the other heads, I would have had to flycut deep enough that I would almost hit the sparkplug hole, and the only solution to this would be to weld the combustion chamber and reshape them.

So rather than ruin that set of heads if this all doesn't work as it should, so I got another set of heads I had lying around that were basically junk, ported them the same as the other heads I'd done, and match ported another set of IDA manifolds just the same as you saw before.

A friend TIG welded up the chambers and then I reshaped them all into a decent shape reminiscent of Johannes little 1603cc heads.

I was rather surprised that all this work only got rid of 7cc, so I had to flycut the chamber 0.200" (5mm) to get down to 29cc in the chamber, limited again by the fact that too much deeper and we're getting too close to the spark plug hole.

All that gave a pretty healthy 11.9:1 CR anyway and since this will run on pump gas, better to give up at that anyway.

Checked the mill was all absolutely level in all directions and then off we go.

[attachment=1]

[attachment=2]

Since the chambers were cut down 0.200" the barrels now no longer seated on the chamber surface, so the top of the head had to be cut down so the barrels seat properly.

[attachment=3]

[attachment=4]

I didn't mean to lose a whole fin, but I ended up with a pair of numberplate frames  ;D

[attachment=1]

[attachment=2]

A look down the barrels at the combustion chambers, I think they look pretty good and hopefully work as I intend them to.

[attachment=1]

[attachment=2]

And a look at the completed heads.

Ported the same as the last pair, set up for an 1 5/8ths exhaust and 48IDA's.

[attachment=1]

[attachment=2]

[attachment=3]

[attachment=4]

And now you are all caught up to date.

Today it was time to check a pushrod tube for fit, and of course even at full compression it was too long.

So with 20mm cut out of the non-spring end, it fits well, so I'll be on to the other 7 tomorrow.

[attachment=1]

Next will be to weigh all pistons and balance accordingly as I couldn't do that until valve pockets were cut in them, since that isn't necessary I can get on with it, and then decide whether I will use the tru-arc pin locks or a set of spirolox.

Then to cut down every cylinder head stud, as with all of this they are all too long  ::)

Later

Greg

This is one of the most detailed engine builds I've seen in a while... truly inspirational as now I really want to go through my 1914 and get everything done this tightly. I definitely want to see video of it running once it's all done!

11.9:1 on pump gas is that a typo  ???

Excellent read. I particularly like the attention to detail on the sealing foam on the cooler (exactly what I do) - so many people ignore this and wonder why their engine is hot. That and fitting the tin properly is crucial - I spent many hours fettling the tin for a perfect fit - you have to do it if the heads are in any way flycut.
Looking forward to the end result.
Steve

Word up, Gregward! ;D

Great stuff Greg! Thanks man, excellent to see the picture trail, very cool.
 8)
I'm trying a few different things with my new 1584 too, good fun these little things.
 ;D

Thanks guys,

I'm getting there, 6 weeks until the race weekend!!

Ok so on to cutting all the pushrod tubes, none would fit as the engine is so short that even the springs were coil bound before even trying to test fit them...

Yes they are just EMPI, I'll use better ones on the next incarnation but they have a healthy 21mm ID which is great for the 0.610" lift...

They are all cut down 20mm, and I just used a nice pipe cutter to do the job...

[attachment=1]

[attachment=2]

And then use the same tool to bevel the inside edge to the same as they came...

[attachment=3]

Cutting pushrods to size was next.

As per the other checks with the adjustable pushrod this is then translated to these with a felt pen area and a precision line scribed in that section.

[attachment=1]

And then a check to make sure all are the exact (or as best as I can without a lathe) length..

[attachment=2]

Next onto assembling the heads.

Start with a bunch of parts.

Manley Valves,Scat dual valve springs, Lunati valve spring shims 0.020"

Bugpack lash caps, Stock valve locks ground

CB Titanium Retainers ,CB Rockers, CB Rocker Studs, CB Rocker shims...(thanks Marieanne).

[attachment=1]

Oil the Valves

[attachment=2]

Tested all the valve springs for installed height and fully open lift and decided that some 0.020" shims give a few more pounds of pressure and also stop the springs machining the aluminium head where it seats and still leave enough room without coil bind...

[attachment=3]

Then add the Lunati valve spring shims

[attachment=4]





 

And assemble the head with a generic bench valve spring compressor bolted to a home made wooden base unit.

[attachment=1]

Smack the tops of retainers to make sure locks and things are seated

[attachment=2]

And all together

[attachment=3]

[attachment=4]

I always like to stamp the heads properly to their location.

Same with rockers, makes it easy to make sure things are lined up on the correct side of the engine, pen marker is ok, but stamping it makes it permanent.

1 and 2 side

[attachment=1]

3 and 4 side

[attachment=2]

Now to shim the rockers correctly.

Check a basic clearance

[attachment=1]

And a good look at the awesome quality of the CB rockers

[attachment=2]

[attachment=3]

[attachment=4]

Then to check each shim with a micrometer to see what we've got and put them in piles.

Roughly 0.015" and 0.028" and 0.056"

[attachment=1]

I start from the inside first

[attachment=2]

Then outsides

[attachment=3]

Add some blue loctite

[attachment=4]

Then torque to the recommended 18Ft/Lbs

[attachment=1]

And finished 1 and 2 side

[attachment=2]

And finished 3 and 4 side

[attachment=3]

Some Blue Loctite on the CB rocker studs to finish off

[attachment=4]

Then on to measure the pistons and correct if necessary.

3 of these were exactly 331g and the one I picked as #1 was 334, so I just corrected it.

As I've said previously, these have had the tops cut so the original Turbo dish and 4 Valve cut outs are gone, and then also machined for circlips and wrist pins cut to suit.

[attachment=1]

After some checking back and forth, I decided to use the Spirolox and not the Tru-arcs.

They are an absolute pain to put in (or get back out) but since they are used in high revving motorcycles so their pins don't come out, I'm happy to use them in this for safety.

I have now bought a 22mm Pin Spirolox tool which should arrive before I button this up as a longblock for good next week.

How a Spirolox works:

[attachment=1]

[attachment=2]

[attachment=3]

[attachment=4]

And now the biggest problem.

This engine is so short that I can't just shorten some stock Cylinder studs and everything is ok...I thought I could but I can't..

[attachment=1]

So I contacted a good friend in Sweden to help out and he fabricated a custom set for me. Thanks Johannes  ;D

Whilst I'm waiting for the new studs I started to tidy up my 18yr old A1 stepped header for this engine...

1 5/8ths

[attachment=1]

[attachment=2]

I was gonna show what car this is going into...

Well we can all wait.... ;D

Greg

amazing build!
i use the spiral locks on helicopters at work to keep the wheels on so can't be bad  ;D

That's amazing Andy.

thanks a heap for the input....

Should be ok on my
 stuff then.....

Greg

https://weddleindustries.com/products/1000206
Scroll down ;)

These guys have 10.9 grade between 111 long and 173 which may help

Thanks Dave,
I assume thats in mm, my studs at the shortest 155, longest at 220mm...

All good...I just want to get this engine done as it's been too long...

Last 2 coats of clear on the 18yr Old exhaust to refurbish...

[attachment=1]

[attachment=2]

 

Organising some 48IDA's for this build.

I've said previously I can't afford another set of original Italian ones so the EMPI EPC 48s will have to do.

As far as my memory goes Art Thraen from ACE in Utah helped sort these out.

Castiings are amazing....

JayCee stacks....

[attachment=1]

[attachment=2]

[attachment=3]

Bigger than a WD40Can...

[attachment=4]

Next thing is to get the 48IDA tools out...(none of these exist to buy anymore so I made my own).

Not sure I've seen a step by step on how to use these, but here we go and how I use them.

1. Needle and seat height tool.... 25mm

2. Float hold down tool....24mm

3. Float Hang tool, 5.5mm-6.00mm mine made at 5.75mm

Weber Tools:

[attachment=1]

with all laid out :

[attachment=2]

Check Needle and Seat height, gauge is 25mm

If you need to change any of this, then the washer is the go..

Next is float hold down tool 24mm..

It replaces the fact that the float doesn't come out with the removal of the carb top and the needle and seat like all IDF series..

Screw it in:

[attachment=1]

I just wiggle it side to side so the 24mm is not more or less but as accurate as I can get..

[attachment=2]

Then Float hang tool... at my 5.75mm

Wrong hangange

[attachment=3]

And hanging perfectly

[attachment=4]

Here's the car this is going in as soon as I finish the engine...

Ran 9.3@73MPH 2yrs ago in the eigth mile with stock gearing with a mild 1584cc that I built for Johnny..

These pics are just freshening it up a bit recently with a different rake/stance and wheel track...

Beetle is a genuine '66 "Custom" one year only for Australia, Swingaxle obviously and painted in original Lotus White (2pac)...

Original 1985 Stamped Centrelines

[attachment=1]


[attachment=2]

Those were one of my fav wheels back then. Last pic looks bad ass.

It's a kick ass car...

All credit to Johnny.

Got my studs today, update soon..

Greg

Machined to length studs for this short engine.

[attachment=1]

[attachment=2]

[attachment=3]

Time to install pistons, getting ring gap is crucial, since these are pistons from a turboed 16V engine they are all a little larger on top rings than I'm used to, however the 2nd ring needs filing to size and a nice hand tool is the perfect way to get a proper ring gap and do it gently.
I use a 0.004" x bore size for the top ring, and 0.005" x bore size for the 2nd ring.

[attachment=1]

After installing the rings by hand, and clocking them so they aren't aligned in their gaps, adding some oil and the use of an awesome ring n piston tool, I can push in the piston by hand into each cylinder.

[attachment=2]

I like to install each piston in their respective cylinders with the wrist pin clips that you can't get to already in place.

[attachment=3]

Using these Spiralox clips are a pain, but this special lock in tool makes it as easy as threading in a bolt...

[attachment=1]

[attachment=2]

I use a high temperature grey silicon under the barrels as can be seen, not too much...
Also after installing the cylinder deflector tin I add a neat dab just to aid in keeping them in place.

[attachment=1]


[attachment=2]

[attachment=3]

Heads and rockers and pushrod tubes ready to go.

[attachment=1]

Inserting the pushrod tubes and then lowering the head, nipping up the bottom row head studs first to compress the tubes, then nipping up the top row, then torquing once to 15ft/lbs and then 25ft/lbs.

[attachment=2]

Drop in the precut pushrods.

[attachment=3]

And add some oil to aid in the startup.

[attachment=4]

Bugpack lash caps go on.

[attachment=1]

Rockers go on, previously shimmed and stamped per side.

[attachment=2]

About to do valve lash adjustment, old school method of making sure #1 cylinder is at TDC

[attachment=3]

And quite obvious the piston is right at the top.

Starting at #1 Cyl, setting lash cold at 0.006" as the Engle cam card specifies.

[attachment=1]

[attachment=2]

Going around all valves in firing 1.4.3.2 order.
I do it at least twice before calling it good, as in my experience and this engine proves, 2 out of 8 valves closed up a little bit, I only assume this is because valves on each side share a cam lobe.

[attachment=3]

Oil up rockers, valve springs and rocker shims.

[attachment=1]

[attachment=2]

Rocker covers done up.

[attachment=3]

[attachment=4]

Ok, so longblock done!

[attachment=1]

Well almost, flywheel endplay next.

[attachment=2]

[attachment=3]

And then check with oldschool gauge as I distrust digital.
Interesting that I get 0.005" with the digital, and 0.0055" with the analog, so 2 thousandths over stock is good to go for this engine.

[attachment=4]

All laid out. Some oil on the flywheel into seal surface, some red loctite on the bolt, and don't forget the flywheel O-Ring.

[attachment=1]

Torqued with a multiplier tool to 270ft/lbs

Daikin clutch disc.

[attachment=1]

Clutch alignment tool helps.

[attachment=2]

Clutch plate on and Kennedy Stage1 installed.

[attachment=1]

[attachment=2]

Using 10mm headed ARP bolts for a Nissan RB26.
Torqued to 24ft/lbs.

[attachment=3]

And done up.

[attachment=4]

Sorry about the orientation of some of these pictures, my laptop shit itself,  so this update is all from my phone.

Shortening tinware by 14mm per side.

[attachment=1]

[attachment=2]

[attachment=3]

[attachment=4]

Tinware starting to be mocked up.

[attachment=1]

Exhaust being mocked up by Johnny who's car this is going in, happens this car is in my driveway and has a removable apron!

"Built" a dummy engine that morning just to mock this up.

[attachment=2]

[attachment=3]

And basically how it will look.

Should be started this weekend on the engine stand, then a weeks running in/tuning and off to the drag races...

[attachment=1]

The car's name is "The Mullet"

All business up front, party out the back!!  8)

Cheers,

Greg

Awesome work, man! I can't wait to hear about how it runs with all that work! Any chance of a video of this thing screaming like a banshee?

Of course Andrew... on the stand tomorrow and a number of drag racing  videos with any luck!  ;D

Static timed at 7 and a bit degrees before TDC

[attachment=1]

[attachment=2]

Gotta love original German Factory parts.

[attachment=3]

[attachment=4]

Ready for startup tomorrow, took a bunch of fiddling with Chinese tinware and a rubbish Chinese Alternator.

[attachment=1]

Has 50PSI oil pressure on the starter motor....

Ready to go...

Cant wait to hear it!!!

It's alive!

As of yesterday, just running the cam in, it's quite mild at idle or below 2000rpm and surprised me.

I'll work out some video and share it as soon as I can....

Short video of breaking in the cam

https://youtu.be/3EsjuvzbkCI

My friend John giving it a few revs the next day after we tuned it in a bit

https://youtu.be/h-eQBqAPE_0

Sounds awesome! I can't wait to see videos of it blowing the doors off cars with much bigger motors! The throttle response sounds about perfect!

Warwick bound?

Tuning still to go, engine should be in the car tomorrow, then I guess we'll be doing as much driving as we can to bed everything in.
As those pistons and rings are for a turbo car, the gaps are a bit big, and it's a steel chromed top ring so that might take a bit of seating.
Once we've got a few 100miles on it we can start revving it a bit and check out the A/F range on the incar wideband and dial it in.

Certainly is. We don't want to miss it even though cutting close as usual...

What an accomplishment! It sure sounds ferocious too. Thanks for sharing each step of the build Greg, I have to go back through from the beginning again. Very nice

I agree! Reminds me of my build years ago when I posted pics along the way. Too bad it was lost in the transition to the European domain.
Maybe I’ll repost them again sometime.

Thanks guys,

Well finally back home after the last weekends racing.
Unfortunately the tune on the street was very last minute due to things like the Chinese alternator putting out 17v at idle, and points gaps that kept closing up each time the engine was revved past 6000rpm because the rubbing block is now plastic and not bakelite and simply wears away.

I know, who uses points anymore you'll say, but with one day left all we could get was a pertronix, that seemed to work well, and a rough tune dialled in with the AF meter.
At the track which was 700miles away and a different elevation, all seemed good off the trailer on the Friday.
Saturday morning car wouldn't start, weak spark but there however no fire. Pushing it and clutching wouldn't do it and noticed raw fuel dripping out the exhaust.
Swapped to a 009 with points and it fired right up.

Long story short we chased all Saturday to get the engine to rev properly past 6000rpm, as it just went off like a rev limiter, which by the end of the day we found the Pro control was either wired wrongly or simply didn't like the points as even though was turned to 8000 was definately going off at 6000.
Disconnected that and finally on Sunday got to about 7300 before it all fell over again, a coil change and some jetting and it was happy to rev to 8800 in neutral but not under load.
So on the trailer it went.

So fairly disappointed in that, electronic issues but nothing mechanical at fault whatsoever, so the build is sound, now onto sorting out ignition and tune, there is no deadline pressure now, so we can take our time and sort it out and I'll update this.
Once dialled in, next month I hope to be running it down the 1/4 for some proper full rev passes.

At the track, dry and dusty!

[attachment=1]

[attachment=2]

Sunday 2 best runs, can't wait till it revs properly and cleanly.

https://youtu.be/EeNJG7_qUoQ

https://youtu.be/qUshvkb26J0

Cheers,

Greg

Sorry to hear about the electronics issues! Still though, this motor is one hell of an accomplishment and I can't wait to see what it can do once you get the spark and tune sorted out properly!

Cheers Andrew,
I'm not deterred at all, even though it was a little disappointing electrics wise.

We'll get it sorted out and run the crap out of this engine to get some good feedback and idea's for my next one.
 ;D

Don’t forget to get some time on it before running it hard. The carbon coats the piston crown and keeps the heat from getting down to the rings which can cause a loss of temper.  ;)

Where do you get crap like that from?

Piston rings are NOT heat treated.  Even if they were, it would take temps way over 1000ºF to alter any heat treatment.

There were race cars where the owner took his new engine straight to the track to max it out and 'see what it'll do' with zero time on it.
The rings can lose tension from heat creeping down from the chamber.
 ;)

Then there were the two friends who bought identical motorcycles on the same day.  One vowed to baby it for the first few thousand km, the other treated his like it was stolen.  A couple of months later after they argued, they dynoed them.  Guess which one made more hp?

I'll never forget watching Gary Berg build a race motor for the black car, put it on the dyno, warm it up, then do a "full pull" at 8 grand to seat the rings....then he would leak it down.  if it was over 5% he would take it back apart...

Hey Bruce, I think the faster one would have been the man that ran it hard from the beginning.     ;D

We caned this  little engine from the beginning, it was awesome....

I said I'd update this soon, and i will.


Greg

The thing I've always worried about with building a new engine then thrashing it to seat the rings is the cam break in - how can you do both?

The better way to have nicely sealing rings is to build the motor properly with the crank centerline decked to the case and barrel seating surfaces. Assume barrels are not straight from new, and need honing on a machine to make sure they are square to the case.
 ;D

Any updates on this mini monster?

Sorry Andrew,
I had a problem with the flywheel trying to detach itself from the crank... another thing to learn from...is your gland nut bottomed out before the flywheel is tight?
I thought absolutely and I was absolutely wrong...

Next, this engine had a lot of blowby, and got too hot...

That is always attributed to 94mm pistons and silly heads that have no fins...

Well, mine is stock 85.5mm barrels and I  did get rid of one fin, but 7 remain, if a street eliminator has 5 thick fins, what is the problem...

Again, my fault and also a time constraint, as the barrels I honed and got shortened were already bored 0.030", so I ended up with a 0.045" ring gap, that not even supercharged on nitrous could bring back....

Lastly,  here's a thing, always thinking about the points ignition breaking down, but it was this.....

[attachment=1]

[attachment=2]

But it was sealing well to barrels....

[attachment=3]

The valve removal of #2 Exhaust came with a free removable guide! ;D

Bad luck Greg.
Why do you think that happened? Were the guides not installed with enough interference?

Cheers

Most probably my fault, I replaced all 8 guides, although this particular chamber was the first one to get welded up, all the rest got welded progressively nicer, so who knows may have got too much heat?
These heads were literally something that should have been recycled and not used, they were used and abused type3 heads, and were rubbish, but doing all this welding I just wanted to try it rather than use those nice Brazilian alcohol heads that I'd spent so much time on and start again and weld them up...

Never mind, I think it was a good learning curve, because I was always concerned why I could go all over the jetting map and not really change much, also thought it was all electrical, there were definitely electrical issues ignition wise, but a loose guide to this degree would have caused us most problems.

All good, I'll fix it and another set of barrels, and can't wait to put it all back together again and see how it goes....

Cheers,

Greg

Hi Greg
If you are thinking about new head Look at the aftermarket head They are much better in the channels and the flow is also better than Vw
In the 1600 challenge in Sweden, there is a lot going on with mass hp in the small machines Know that machines are being built up to 15.1 in CR
We are talking about 140-150 hp with valves that are 35.5x32 We are waiting for the first dyno pull
/// Micke

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=290263848826472&set=pcb.2729214470700576&type=3&theater&ifg=1

Thanks  Micke,
But the point is not buying the latest and greatesr but to see what we can create...

I want to see 158.4hp this year, or 1 hp per cc...


But I'm not gonna do it by cubic dollars....

Cheers,

Greg

On 35 5mm inlet, and 32mm exhaust valves,  Std...

12 :1cr but, with my ring gap, about 9....

Flow? Whatever all my engines had to do 9.3secs @ 76mph in the eoighth mile

Fixed the guide, without breaking the thin boss and red loctited, then recut all seats....

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Cheers,

Greg

I'm sorry to hear about all the issues you've had, but it's good to see you're getting back on top of it! Good luck!

It's coming back..
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Same size but done right this time  ;D

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I really appreciate seeing your pictures of your build, thanks!
Looking at your counter-weighted stock crank I was wondering who made it.
I’m not sure if anyone is still welding up stick cranks these days but after visiting a volume engine rebuilding shop, I have an appreciation for what goes into making one of these marvels from yesterday rather than a computer-generated CAD piece designed by someone sitting in a fancy task chair at a computer.
I have some pics of a Berg CW stock crank that I bought in the 90s.
To me the counter-weights look quite different or am I looking at it wrong?
Check out mine.

https://www.facebook.com/folkevogn.no/videos/782276905761582
/// M

Cool, not sure what that has to do with me?

What crank is it?

Thought it might be an inspiration to continue working with your stuff
/// M

Sure ok!
It's taken a while to get all this back and happening again from the debarcle that was 2020....
Full steam ahead now again...

Hi Martin,
It's a crank I've had around for a few years, done here in Australia by an engineering company..

I just had it reworked for some thinner knife edged counterweights to reduce the weight a bit and fit nicer in the case...
Probably why it looks a little different to yours...

Finally back as a longblock!

Very happy with it after some checking and rechecking...

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Flywheel on and into the start stand....

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Are you going without a full flow oil system?

Congrats on getting it back together! I'm excited to see what it will end up doing!

Yes Martin, I've never run one...

Cheers Andrew.....you and me both!

Cool. Most people don't put near the mileage on their engines for it to matter anyway.
One less part to fail, or leak. It's just as good to change the oil often.

The Super 1600 is alive again today!!

Nastier and more meaningful this second go around 😁

https://youtu.be/RNaTErSCyZs

Cheers,

Greg

Sounds awesome

Indeed!!

I'm pleased it's back together...

Does sound nasty....good. It should!

I took a listen the other day, nasty doesn't quite do it justice... I'm sure you're about ready to stab it in a car and see what it can do!

Yes Andrew,
Just building another friends engine in the next 2 weeks then thos one will go back in that Lotus white '66 you've already seen and get a proper run in and tune.

Lots more time to tune this time and I'm pretty happy with the ignition system on this rebuild.

Very nice!
:)
Johan

What a great thread…!  ;D
Thanks for taking time to show details.

Wondering how this turned out?

Yes, I'm wondering too. Did it get seat time?  ???